Today was a bittersweet day. My people that I’ve been hiking with are moving on. Coyote, Radio and Curly are heading to Two Medicine. It’s a 25 mile push with two major passes and I’m not ready for that. So I’ll continue with our issued permit and head to Atlantic Creek.

Ends up that the rain came sooner than expected. It rained all night and around 5am, there was a sudden stop. This was my opportunity to pack up, and head up the pass early. Hopefully, before it starts raining again. Coyote and Radio did the same. Curly had already left.

By 6am, we all pushed south, and headed towards the pass. The clouds were hanging low, and it was forgone knowledge, that the sky would open up and rain something fierce. InReach, my satellite tracking device, has a weather forecast mode and it stated, “expect 8-10” of rain, wind and flooding for the next 48 hours”. That doesn’t sound pleasant.

Another suspension bridge, more snow fields to cross, one river to ford and a lot of uphill ascent. I feel the extra rest I had yesterday prepared me for this kick butt day. I play this game in my mind, what pass or what passes will I be made to climb today? There was a distinct saddle and I told myself, that’s where me and Norman are going today. The trail is so well hidden that you cannot see the route so it truly is a guessing game. Well you can always check your map, but what fun would that be?

As I climbed, the clouds would drop down and obscure the mountains. It reminded me of the Israelites and how the Ark of the Covenant would travel with them. God was literally in camp and would show his presence by enveloping their camp with a cloud. I felt God’s presence, swirling around, guiding me through these mountains and protecting each and every step I took.

Once I made it to the pass, yep you guessed it, the rain began. It was a wicked cold rain and the clouds invaded the trail. I had one snow field to cross and headed down. Occasionally I caught a glimpse of the valley below. There was a pristine lake that was aqua marine blue. As soon as I had a chance to take a picture, it would disappear. So I put my camera away, and walked.

It was a quick descent on colored rocks, red, greens and brown. I had no place to eat or take a break because of the weather so I just put my head down and hoped for a nice campsite at Atlantic Creek. I arrived shortly after noon, and as appalled at my options. It was dank and wet and there was no way I was going to weather out this storm here! No thank you.

I had planned an escape route for this exact scenario. There is a trail that heads east towards Cut Bank via Pitamakan Pass. I decided this was my ticket out of here and a ride into East Glacier. There is no need to suffer through this when I have plenty of chances to embrace this brutality in the upcoming months.

As I headed off the crazy CDT, I saw two people headed in with huge backpacks. I was thinking why would they be going in on a day like today. A few miles later, I saw six people hiking in. They were smiling and seemed to be having a grand ol’ time. What’s with these crazy’s? We talked for a bit and they were headed to Atlantic Creek. I didn’t say a word.

Finally, I made it to a deserted campground with five vehicles parked at the trailhead. Someone is bound to be leaving. I talked with a car full of young girls and they were headed into see the lake during the rainstorm. Well that sounds like a grand time! If I was still around in four hours, they’d be happy to give me a ride. I continued walking towards the Forest Service Station that was on my map. I could always sit there and wait for a ride.

I should’ve taken a picture of this but my hands were freezing and my phone didn’t need to endure this rain. As I walked up to the “abandoned” Forest Service Station, there was a herd of big black cows. They have decided to move into the porch of the station. No way cows, that’s my spot. I walked up with purpose and the baby cows were the first to leave. But the big steer was having nothing to do with it. He was quite content being shelter from the rain. I gave him “the look” and he got it. Him and all the girls scampered away and I had the porch to myself!

I stripped off all my wet clothes, got into my pack and pulled out my dry clothes. It felt so good to have a place to change, eat and process my day. Now all I needed to do was find a ride. A car came by but they were NOT going to give me a ride. But they would call a Ranger if I needed help. No, I don’t need help. I just need a ride to town.

About ten minutes later, the van that was parked at the trailhead came by. I waved them down and they were more than happy to give me a ride wherever I needed to go. That’s my God. I knew He would provide me a perfect way to get off this mountain!

Ends up, they are guides and had set up camp at Atlantic Creek for their six clients. They were the two I passed with the huge backpacks. Now I was on my way to East Glacier, staying in a warm hotel with a bathtub. Oh my goodness, how much better does it get than that?

“Do not be anxious about anything, but in every situation, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God.”
‭‭Philippians‬ ‭4‬:‭6‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Much better day on trail than yesterday. No crazy river crossings, no snow, no rain. It was cool and windy but I’ll take that any day. My cousin Ed gave me a ride back to the trailhead and off I went.

Elizabeth Lake is breathtaking. It’s surrounded by glaciated mountains and the clouds were hanging on top. As I headed back towards the CDT, there was a rainbow over the waters edge. Quite a nice view for my morning stroll.

The trail was fairly unremarkable. Except for the two, very long suspension bridges. I should be getting better at these but they still freak me out a bit as I walk across them. I remember years ago when my friend Sally and I hiked the Wonderland Trail in Washington. There was a mama bear and her cub attempting to walk across the bridge. We all gave her plenty of birth and somehow, someway they both made it across. So that’s my plan. If a Mama and Baby Cub can do it, I can too!

Being it was a very short day with little elevation, I stopped a lot. Honestly I haven’t found my trail legs yet. I’m exhausted and moving fairly slow. Sometimes I question this idea of hiking from Canada to Mexico. Who does that? But here I am still trusting that God wouldn’t lead me out here, if He was going to have me turn around. So I keep heading southbound.

Red Eagle Lake is in a bowl surrounded by dead trees. I can’t tell if there was a fire many years ago, best guess or if there was a mean ole beetle that decimated the forest? I need to find out these things. (My Trail Family said a very long time ago was a huge fire, so I’m sorry beetle of accusing you.)

I was the first to camp so I scouted a site that we can pitch two tents. The options were slim but I found a reasonably flattish spot and hunkered down. Curly showed up next but without Max. Sounds like Max is off-trail due to Achilles injury. Glacier NP is already claiming our class of hikers. And it’s only day five!

I hung my bear bag, not with ease like the times before. This pole about claimed my line but somehow- someway I was able to untangled it from the grommets that were attached to the horizontal pole. I’m not sure whose grand idea that was but it’s not helping the bear hangs.

Coyote and Radio showed up and shared their disastrous night. It rained heavily so everything was soaking wet. Coyote found not one, but four slugs in her shoe and a worm. Yuck! When they stopped for lunch to dry everything out, ended up another hidden slug had hitched a ride inside their tent. Oh the joys of hiking in the woods. I promised that no slugs have been found, seen or reported in our dry dust bowl of a campsite. Worlds apart and only one mountain range that separated us.

I’m taking a much needed rest and have no plans of leaving my tent till dinner. On the menu tonight is Chicken Alfredo. Then to bed so I can mentally and physically prepare for Triple Pass tomorrow. That’ll be fun. Or maybe not.

Today was what my body needed. A easy peasy day that finished early, and gave me rest for tomorrow.

“The Lord is my shepherd, I lack nothing. He makes me lie down in green pastures, he leads me beside quiet waters, he refreshes my soul.
‭‭Psalms‬ ‭23‬:‭1‬-‭2 NIV‬‬

There is something magical about sleeping in a bed with five pillows. Oh, I could hike forever if I could only stay in my little cabin nightly. But that’s silly talk, as no one who thru-hikes has such luxury.

Norman and I hit the trail at 6am, our earliest start yet. As we walked down the trail, Curly and Max caught up. They were headed to Many Glaciers Hotel for a fine breakfast. I passed. Let alone I paid a fortune to stay in my cabin last night, but more to the point, there is no way I can climb a big pass with a full belly. So I bided them ado and headed up the pass.

This morning was glorious with cloud covering and cooler than normal temps. Just when I was thinking to send my warm joggers home, I think I’ll keep them a bit longer. The trail meandered up through the trees and across many small creeks, all manageable for rock hopping. Then the trail opened up to an incredible meadow and the waterfall I had been eyeing was right in front of me. It always amazes me how in such a short period of time, I can reach a distant peak or waterfall that seemed miles away!

Now the river crossing begins. I had been warned of the big rivers with no way around. They were spot on. There were many crossings and I figured, no point of taking off my shoes. “Embrace the suck” as they say around here, and I did. Plowed through, thigh deep, cold glacier water rivers. If I wasn’t awake, I am now!

I sat and had my morning snack when I hear, “hey bear.” That’s what hikers say to warn the unsuspecting bears of our presence. I don’t know if it works, but we all do it. My tent mates Coyote and Radio came around the corner. Radio has been struggling with blisters so I offered him up my hobby’s favorite remedy, Compeed. He was thrilled!

The big climb started over Piegan Pass. It was long and steep, and the worse part was I really could not see where the pass was. Usually you can see a saddle or something that looks like a perfect place to get up and over, but Piegan Pass was a mystery. What wasn’t a mystery was the glacier fields. Oh how I do not like crossing these!

After what seemed like hours, I finally arrived at Piegan with rain coming down and a cold wind. Both me and Norman were covered from head to toe. I usually plan my lunch stops on top of passes but today, no such luck. I had a trail bar and found my way down the backside.

The clouds had covered the tops of all the surrounding peaks, but it still was beautiful in its own way. All I could think about was getting off this mountain. Especially when I saw lightning. It was a flash of light and that’s all I needed to beat feet down the mountain.

About half way down the mountain, I hit the trees. This usually is not a problem except it holds the snow for much too long. I had a few glaciers to travel across but there was at least two, maybe three miles of solid snow fields. My shoes were wet, my socks were soaked, my gaiters were cold and my pants were drenched. I was NOT a happy hiker!

But, my cousin Ed happened to be in Glacier this week. Oh this could be my ticket to warmth. My new and improved I-phone has satellite access so I sent out an SOS to Ed. He was finishing a hike with his son Andrew and girlfriend Amanda. Ed accepted my request for help and picked my cold and frigid body up. We went for dinner and I am now crashing on his floor. It is dry and warm and I will be back at it again. And don’t think I bailed on my miles. I finished up all miles and will be back at again.

So funny side note. For Mothers Day, George bought me a new watch, the Garmin Enduro. It has way too many functions to even grasp. But as I was lying on my sleeping pad, it told me that I need to take a rest day. When does your watch get to override when you need to take a Zero Day? Ends up, my peeps that I’ve been hiking with, had the same message. My following day will be like a rest day. Only ten miles and flattish. Hopefully that’ll count as a Zero!

When I was cold and miserable, wondering what I was doing on the mountain, God already had a plan for me.

Philippians 4:19 – “And my God will meet all your needs according to the riches of his glory in Christ Jesus,” assuring believers that God supplies every need abundantly.

I tiptoed out of our campsite this morning. I had all intentions of sleeping in being it was an easy peasy day. But I could not sleep last night. So I was packed up and headed to the kitchen area for breakfast. In Grizzly Country, they separate your eating area from your camping area from your outhouse. All have distinctly different locals.

As I was getting my food bag down, the biggest Hare came into the kitchen. Obviously looking for straps from last night. Sorry bunny, we keep a very tidy place around here. I packed my bag and off I went.

There was a short climb this morning, and then it was smooth sailing. But what stole the show was a plethora of flowers, exploding in color in every direction. I had a tough time getting any mileage done as I was snapping pictures of all the different variety’s that were showcased. All I could think of was my friends Atsuko and Judi. They would be in heaven with the bounty of colors and bouquets to be found.

I made it to the road, and Norman and I were happy to be on flattish ground. We beat feet to the Swiftcurrent Lodge to see if any cabins were available. To my surprise, we were able to get a little reprieve from the dirt and have a proper place to lay our weary heads. Even Norman was delighted.

Shower, laundry and food. A perfect agenda for a nero town day. I made it back to Many Glaciers, and my trail friends are all hanging out in the campground. And the laundry mat. It’s seems to be the most used space in the park today. Now that all is done, I think I’ll take a nap.

“And why do you worry about clothes? See how the flowers of the field grow. They do not labor or spin. Yet I tell you that not even Solomon in all his splendor was dressed like one of these.”
‭‭Matthew‬ ‭6‬:‭28‬-‭29‬ ‭NIV‬‬

I am so glad I did not know the elevation I was doing today. For some reason, I anticipated 2500’ but not close to 3500’ on day two. That’s all sorts of wrong.

I was packed and out of camp by 6:30am. No one else was up so I tried to be super quiet. My plan is to hike first thing in the morning and have my coffee about 2-3 hours later with breakfast. Being I’m not a first thing in the morning coffee drinker, this works fine.

Around 9am, I arrived at Elizabeth Lake which is where most thru-hikers elect for day one. I had breakfast, talked to a nice group of youngsters, probably in their 20’s and headed out.

My pass today was a doozy. It just kept climbing and climbing until it didn’t. I had hoped to get there by noon and made it ten minutes later. That’s a win in my book! I had lunch and admired the grandeur of these mountains. Glacier is mountainous, in every direction! They are jagged snow-covered peaks with many glacier fields to cross.

A couple of guys showed up at the peak and had lunch with me. Curly and Max. We are all thru-hikers and they have a similar permit that I share with Coyote and Radio. I took off knowing they would catch me and in perfect timing. There was a section of the trail that was covered with snow and no trail to be found. I started heading south and Curly caught up with me. I followed him for five minutes and bam, we were back on trail. Max was behind me and I was able to navigate him by the sound of my voice. We all made it and were off to camp.

Today I saw two hares, many pikas and squirrels, but missed the moose. Curly & Max said it was 100’ off the trail in the willows. Well of course it was. That’s prime eating for them there moose.

Made it to camp ahead of my camp partners and squared away a spot for us. There’s only four possible sites that are available by permit only. You can have up to four people with a maximum of two tents. This works perfectly for the three of us being Coyote and Radio share a tent and I have my single tent with a very small footprint. We have a great partnership, the three of us.

“For since the creation of the world God’s invisible qualities—his eternal power and divine nature—have been clearly seen, being understood from what has been made, so that people are without excuse.”
‭‭Romans‬ ‭1‬:‭20‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Today was the first steps on the Continental Divide Trail, aka CDT. I stayed at Swiftcurrent Lodge last night in one of the original sites built in 1936. Oh my goodness, I slept so soundly. I was pooped after the last couple of nights and needed a long winters nap!

Gaye & Gary just so happened to be in Glacier this week and provided me my Uber to the Canadian Border. I took a few shots at the monument and off I went into the woods. Gaye & Gary headed to Logan’s Pass for their days outing. I just can’t believe how God aligned all the stars and somehow had all my friends show up to Glacier the week I was hitting the trail. How can you say there’s no God?

As I took off, the skies were bluish but clouds were a coming. No worries, I brought my umbrella just in case this sort of nonsense happened. First things first, if you have never been to Glacier NP, you need to get over here. It is “knock your socks off” kind of beauty! I have been to many National sparks in the US but if you are fond of towering mountains, not just slabs of granite, this is your place. The mountains here are huge and surround you on all sides.

Today was the firsts of many. First day on foot of the CDT heading southbound. It was my first sighting of a black snake, quite harmless. I got to meet my first Ranger who lives in Backcountry Belly River Ranger Station for the summer. What a sweet gig she has. And I got to don my umbrella to save me from being pelleted by hail. Pretty great first day. Oh and how can I forget, I had the fortune to cross a suspension bridge that rocked and rolled and swayed from side to side. Nothing but sheer joy and happiness as I about lost my lunch!

So when I lucked out and was placed on the permit with Coyote and Radio, I had no idea that I would get the pleasure of their company. Coyote and Radio met while hiking the PCT in Julian. That is SoCal, basically the beginning of the trail. Then they hiked the AT and Radio proposed and their plan is to get married on the CDT somewhere in New Mexico! What a trail romance that is. Super cute couple and so honored to be with them this first week.

So to bed I go after day one. All is good. Tents are up, bags are hung and me & Norman are retiring for the night. This is the end to a perfect day one.

“But seek first his kingdom and his righteousness, and all these things will be given to you as well.”
‭‭Matthew‬ ‭6‬:‭33‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Saying goodbye is the toughest part of getting to the trail. Especially on Father’s Day! But I think my Dad is smiling from ear to ear. He knew this was my hearts desire and I’m sure that both Mom and Dad are cheering me on from Heavens Gates.

After the most incredible send off, I have boarded the plane. Sitting at the window seat, I confirmed that sure enough my big heavy backpack has been placed in the belly of the plane. Gosh those attendants work hard loading everyone’s bag onto a conveyor belt. Just looking at their faces confirmed that nearly each bag was packed to the fifty pound limit. The guy was sweating bullets from his forehead, especially for a mild day. And the gal was looking like she wished she had paid more attention in school. Get an education so you don’t become a Baggage Handler!

The blue skies are clear with few clouds making it super smooth. My Flight Attendant is sweet as pie, checking on me, calling me by my first name. She doesn’t even know me but you’d think we were friends from years ago. I had some extra flight credits so they upgraded me to First Class. Never ever experienced this kind of luxury before.

Had a bit of a delay so in the Taxi I went. Next stop is Amtrak to East Glacier. My driver was from Pakistan and knew the shortcut to get around the traffic from all things World Cup Soccer. We arrived with plenty of time. All aboard!!! And here I am now sitting in Coach watching the sun go down. This will be a very relaxing evening.

After a not so relaxing night on the Amtrak, I arrived in East Glacier. It’s hard to sleep on a moving train. But the highlight’s included a guy name Stu who was a volunteer docent. He narrated our relationships from Seattle to Wenatchee. Wealth of info, historian and geologist. And my neighbor Tim. He lives in northern Washington, is on the heart transplant list and is bikepacking Glacier NP. He was such a fun partner to have in the train, because honestly, you never know who you’re gonna sit next to. But God knew! He’s not a Christian and we have a very long discussion about my faith and his lack of. Planting seeds…

The train pulled into East Glacier at 0930, right on time. I beat feet over to the outfitters, and purchased Bear Spray and a small canister of fuel. Check, now all I need to do is score the perfectly timed hiking permit. I landed at Looking Glass Hostel and found my people. Younger, youngest, older and elders. Just do happened that Radio and his fiancé Coyote were headed to Two Medicine to get a permit. After yakking for awhile, they headed out and planned to add me onto their potential permit. Two hours later they were back with a permit in hand, including yours truly. Yeah, this is all sorts of good news.

Once my friend Carl arrived, we drove to Two Medicine, I paid the add on fee, obtained a CDT Hang Tag and I am officially hiking the trail. That was perfectly executed. All I need to do is get my person to Chief Mountain, touch the monument and start hiking south. God had it all worked out before I even arrived.

“For I know the plans I have for you,” declares the Lord, “plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future. Then you will call on me and come and pray to me, and I will listen to you. You will seek me and find me when you seek me with all your heart. I will be found by you,” declares the Lord, “and will bring you back from captivity. I will gather you from all the nations and places where I have banished you,” declares the Lord, “and will bring you back to the place from which I carried you into exile.”
‭‭Jeremiah‬ ‭29‬:‭11‬-‭14‬ ‭NIV‬‬

There’s a saying around the Long Distant Hiking community. As a Thru-Hiker, you may choose to hike one trail or all three. But no one hikes only two! This has been my dilemma for the past two years. PCT was finished over a five month period in 2015. The AT was a two- year period from April 2022 through September 2023, not by chose, but by circumstances.

So now I’m left with the CDT. The jewel of the Triple Crown. It has been the elusive one. The trail that takes a bit more planning and close to six months to complete. One foot in front of the other for days on end. That sounds miserable, many of my friends and acquaintances say. How or a better question, why on God’s green earth would you want to do that?

Sometimes the answer to a question isn’t that simple. Honestly, this has been the dream since I finished the PCT. Prior to that trek, I never even knew what or where the AT or CDT were. But once I knew, it was embedded in my soul. All I could think about was hiking from Point A to Point B, knowing that God was with me every step of the way.

Thinking back on the PCT, it was a wild idea. The book “Wild” had become a New York Times Best Seller. Then it became a movie in 2014, just as I chose to embark on this journey. Hikers came out in droves to retrace the steps of Cheryl Strayed and Reese Witherspoon.

I pulled my permit in 2015, the first year that the quota was initiated. Fifty hikers a day were allowed on trail, and for good reason. The strip of dirt was overpopulated and peace, tranquility and solitude was surely, long gone. With over 4600 permits issued that year, I secured my spot and made reservations at Scout and Frodo’s in San Diego.

Scout and Frodo were the model Trail Angels, as well as previous PCT hikers themselves. They dedicated their home to many thru hiker wanna-bees who came from near and far. They offered rides from the airport, dinner, breakfast and a one-way trip to the Southern Terminus at o’dark thirty.

Looking back on my first day, I was a nervous Nilly! I had no experience in long distant hiking besides JMT and other hundred mile treks. But 2650 miles was the goal. What an adventure that was and here I am again, getting ready to finish this up!

CDT is an interesting beast. It is the longest trail with over 3100 miles of high mountains ranges, ridge-lines, glaciers, National Parks, over 100 river crossings just on the Gila and countless bears, lions and larger than life mammals. No wonder my family is questioning my decision to hike this incredibly beautiful space.

So with some trepidation, I am heading south from Chief Mountain and aiming towards Crazy Cook Monument. God willing and the creek don’t rise, I should be kissing the Southern Terminus prior to Thanksgiving.

So in a nut shell, why do I have this burning desire to hike the CDT? Honestly, I believe it was preordained, planned before I was even born. The good Lord had given me a passion that can’t be extinguished, and a desire to live life as His servant. With every breath I take, He will be glorified! That is my reason, my purpose and my destiny. Now all I need to do is obey.