It was pretty darn cold last night. So cold that there was ice and hail on the ground when we walked into Orbaneja Riopico, but I’m jumping the gun. Let’s start from the beginning.

As we left town this morning, we saw dozens of Pilgrims. Everyone wanted an early start as Burgos is a culmination of sorts for hundreds of people, including M&M. The town was shut down like a steel drum so we had to walk to get our morning cup of Joe. To Moody and George’s surprise, the only coffee in our humble abode was decaffeinated, and that just isn’t going to motivate my team. So we left and walked to the next town.

We had one climb and it was the first task of the day. Within a half a mile, we started up our rocky path. Mel and I had wondered where all the wildlife was because outside a red squirrel, tons of birds, some lizards and worms, we haven’t really seen anything. But she did point out some deer droppings so maybe if we keep our eyes peeled, we might see one or two. Nope, nada, zilch. We climbed our rocky path, admiring the views of our town below and the terrain we’ve covered. It’s pretty remarkable when you looked back and see the turbines some twenty miles back that we passed yesterday.

As we neared the top of our climb, was a huge wooden 50’ cross that was erected. At its base was a pile of rocks that some had placed as a sacrifice or release of one’s burdens. There were several pilgrims standing at the foot of the cross, praying, reflecting and just worshipping what this cross represents to them. Tears in my eyes, I found a rock and placed it carefully on top of the other thousands of rocks. It made me give thought to the sacrifice Jesus made for me and how grateful I am for his undeserving love. We all spent several minutes in this sacred place, having time to ourselves.

Where the cross had been placed was on top of a Table-like mountain. It was flat like a plateau with low lying scrub and a few trees sprinkled about. If I didn’t know better, I would’ve thought we were on an African Plain or somewhere quite remote. It was eerily out of place in Spain and thankfully it allowed us all to walk easily.

At the edge was the downhill slide to Villalval, our much needed dose of caffeine. In the very distant corner was the city of Burgos, a good 10 miles away. To my surprise, was a huge mining operation to the north. Just below the clouds you can make out Industrialized Spain. In the last 150 plus miles, I had not seen any sign of clear-cutting or factories, but here was a massive mining operation in front of my eyes.

We followed the steep slope down and hooked onto a paved road that was vacant of any cars. It was only 9am so most Spaniards are just waking up. No traffic to dodge, just us Pilgrims clogging up the road. We followed it for a couple of miles and like the Golden Arches, we found a beautiful Cafe. I think every pilgrim I saw in the past ten days was there!

We all stopped our packs and headed in. There was what appeared to be a husband and wife running the place. They had a system down that was extremely efficient.

The Toasted Sandwiches were actually toasted. That might seem obvious but in Spain, they typical are barely cooked, let alone toasted. George and I both had toasted sandwiches, George had a chocolate eclair with his coffee and I had a Quad-Shot of Espresso. That about sent the Barista tilt. So four shots of espresso in four cups? No sir. I’d like four shots in one cup. I guess no one ever thought of that before. His wife laughed and asked if I was planning to run to Santiago today? Just Burgos. But that’s a thought…

We ate and drank and hit the road, fueled up and rearing to go. We had a little over nine miles to go and it was still early. When we arrived to the next town, Mel noticed ice on the ground. It was actually chunks of hailstones from last nights storm. I couldn’t help myself and being Moody was the closest, a snowball fight ensued. Well I guess you can’t call it that, if the recipient doesn’t respond! So it was more like a snowball massacre. He earned the Gold Star today for taking it so well. Especially for a guy who I’ve been told, doesn’t like getting wet. I can definitely see more Navy Seal training in his future.

We crossed a highway and followed the river. This was a big source of contention as there were two highly marked and visible trails to take. But George had read up and said don’t take the trail that goes through the Industrial Area. Well that gave me a 50/50 chance of picking the right path. Luckily I did and we were on our way to Burgos.

Once we entered the town proper, there were tons of retired people walking the trails and paths that paralleled the Camino. It was wonderful seeing all the locals out walking just because they like the fresh air and exercise. We spoke with one woman from Burgos who offered to carry someone’s pack. Before I could speak up, Moody was taking off his pack! Mel wasn’t a bit surprised and we all continued carrying our own burdens.

Before we knew it, we were in Burgos. Our hotel is right next to the Cathedral with our balcony facing the church. If this isn’t the best place ever, I don’t know what it! We have a room that we were able to check into hours ahead of time and we are in the midst of the most important event that ever took place in Burgos, the building of this Cathedral.

So many of the Pilgrims I talked with today are stopping here. They have many reasons why they cannot continue but it was important to them to have the culmination of their walk ending at this sacred and integral spot. I understand why. It is magnificent!

Burgos is bittersweet to George and I. Our friends and fellow pilgrims are headed home from Burgos. I remember only a few months ago talking about this walk and asking if they’d be interested in joining us? We went to their house, talked about the route and our dates of passage. A couple of days later,Moody was back at our house making reservations with me. We had such great memories with M&M and honestly, I wish they were doing the distance with us. Yet, I am certain that this will not be our last walk.

Mel and Moody, you two are.genuine friends who have blessed us for the past ten days. We have treasured memories that will stay with us both for a lifetime. Congratulations on making your first Camino and walking 150 miles! That’s pretty darn close to Navy Seal worthy status. Thank you for your flexibility, for your patience and forgiveness, but mostly your friendship. What a time we all had. Now you can go home, get a massage, kick your feet up and dream about doing nothing for a day or two. No more six o’clock wake-up’s or twenty mile days in the rain! Lucky ducks. Enjoy and think of George and I as we continue west to Santiago. Much love and blessings to you both.