Day 20: May 28, 24 Puente del Villarente to Leon Today: 8.1 miles Total Stats: 282.0 m & 450.9 km

Another beautiful day in paradise! The sun is shining, the birds are chirping and breakfast is waiting. Now that’s a perfect morning. Walking the Camino is nothing like backpacking. Everything that I wanted or desired was up to me. Want breakfast, heat some water and make soup. Like a cup of coffee, heat water and pretend that your Instant Coffee tastes remotely like a double shot of espresso! But I have to admit, the birds always chirped by 430AM. No questions asked. They have their pros and cons but right now, this Camino is winning my heart!

Another Beautiful Day in Paradise

Today really and truly is a pain free, relaxing day with only eight miles, and little to no hills to climb. Okay maybe one itsy bitsy baby hill. It was non-negotiable as I am NOT God, and hence cannot move mountains!Sorry George.

Fields and Mountains. Oh no!

Leaving Puente del Villarente was almost like walking through a real honest-to-goodness town. It had all the amenities as any city in The States. Furniture Shops, Car Repair Stations, Cafe and Restaurants, and just about anything a local would need. We are definitely getting closer to the Big City of Leon.

Puente Del Villarente

We walked through a field that had tonight’s dinner, big fat cows. I’ll be having fish actually, but I’m sure George would eat a steak, if he has an option. The locals have been talking up the Bocahlo, so that’s what I’m looking for. Juicy Steak for George, or maybe just a salad but I’ll have a piece of Cod please.

Very Industrial

We walked through a couple of small villages. Arcajuega and Valdelafuente had nothing open. Maybe Tuesday’s is their day off. We found a Cafe just outside of Leon and stopped for Espresso and Fruit. Many others had the same idea. We recognized Peregrinos and all shared our excitement for a much needed rest day. Leon, here we come.

Big Stork Landing on Nest

As we were leaving town, I noticed a church, with you guessed it, a stork nest atop it. These birds were very active and George and I hooked a beeline to inspect them closer. A Gal from Korea, Ann informed us we missed our turn. I pointed to the bird nest and she asked, oh the very famous bird of Spain? Yes, it’s a very famous and special Big Bird of Spain. She followed and started videotaping. I cannot believe that she hasn’t seen them before as they are everywhere but maybe she hasn’t noticed? We hung out taking pictures and videos. They are quite magnificent creatures. I just can’t get enough of them.

Counted Three Storks in Nest

Back on track, Leon was our next and final destination for the day. Once atop the crest of our one and only hill of the day, the City of Leon was in the foreground. It is huge! Truly a city in its own right. It is the Capitol of the Providence of Leon, settled in 29 BC and has a population of close to 200,000 people. Did you read that? 29 BC! I’m talking over 2000 years old. From miles away, the most prominent feature is…the Cathedral! It is a masterpiece of Spanish Classic Gothic Architecture and was built during the 13th and 14th century. Talk about historic value.

Yes, That’s a Fire! What’s on Fire? I and No One Else Knows or Seems to Care

As we headed into Leon, we were inundated with people, motor vehicles, oh no, and industry. Since leaving Paris, this is the biggest city we have seen! As we neared the Rio Turio, there was a Pilgrim Census Station. I saw a couple of Pilgrims talking with the Volunteers who were taking their job, quite seriously. George walked over and was listening as a few Pilgrims continued past. Oh my goodness, the one volunteer headed over to escort the Pilgrims to his information station. The big question of the day was “where are you from?” By the time we arrived, which was 11AM, there were nine pilgrims from United States. I didn’t think to ask where everyone else was from, but my best guess would be Spain, Korea and Australia, are the top of the list. We received the handy dandy map of Leon and were on our way.

George Obliging Mr. Census

We meandered on towards the Cathedral. Lucky thing, I reserved each and every one of our stays, months ago. And we are spending the next two nights looking at the Cathedral! My Google Map programmed and set so I could mindlessly walk through the Old City. George and I have been enamored by the Red Poppies, which we just found out are called Anapoly. We stopped at a Flower Shop and talked with the owner, who told us we cannot purchase poppy seeds from Spain. They are wild flowers and not for sale. Our only option is to confiscate the seeds, wrap them in paper and hope they pass through customs. Hmm, sounds like she has experience in this department. Thanks Mrs. Smuggler. I now know what to do.

Flower Shop & Smuggler’s Bounty of Colored Cacti

Before we knew it, we were walking right, front and center, to the Cathedral. Another absolute work of art! This is larger than life, more beautiful than the most magnificent piece of art I’ve ever laid eyes on. How does one invision such an incredible piece of architecture!

The Anticipation of The Most Glorious Cathedral of Leon

As I turned down the narrow street, this is what I saw. The beauty was still hidden, only a glimpse of what she was. Like a viel over the bride before she is revealed to her husband. It reminded me of The Church that the Lord speaks of. The hidden place that we seek out, the love that only He can subside, the longing and lusting for something that only can be fulfilled by God Almighty. And then she is revealed in all her glory!

Leon Cathedral

What a beautiful picture and testimony to the People of Leon. They built this Cathedral as a sacrament to their love for our Jesus. Over 100 years of building, they did not forget what it was that inspired them to start and more importantly, finish this incredible work of art. The stained glass windows surpass more than 1800 meters. No other church has such an exorbitant amount of colored glass in the world.

We checked into our Hostel. Now let me tell you, Hostels have come a long ways. It’s not the flop houses of the AT, sorry my AT Hostel Owners, but I’m not talking about your places. This is a glorified Suite that overlooks the Cathedral and the streets below. It is older than I, yet is completely redone. Stucco, brick and rock walls with modern fixtures and updated baths. I cannot believe that you can stay in a place like this for $70 a night. Maybe because I booked it three months ago or because they are just nice to Pilgrims, and know we are all on a tight budget?!?! But whatever it may be, this is the steal of the Camino!

Our Suite Overlooking Leon Cathedral

All I can say is God is good! And we are truly blessed. day after day. We put in the miles and when we arrive, this is what we get! Yes, I’m thinking when I go back to my one-person tent, however nice it is, will be a major wake-up call! I am so spoiled walking this walk. No wonder Pilgrims come back year after year. Geese, this is too dang good.

City Streets of Leon

A special “Thank you to Dad and Mom.” He blessed us with an early inheritance which has allowed us to enjoy such a place as this!

My Wonderful Parents

After taking a shower and cleaning up, George and I checked out the scene. This place is bustling with locals and tourists, Peregrinos and wanderers. We saw some faces we recognized and others that walked straight out of a magazine. Since Paris, these are the best dressed, put together, gorgeous people of Spain. I feel a bit underdressed in my Blue Town Dress, Sandals and Scarf. But that’s as good as it gets. I’ve been craving Bocalho and found a great restaurant close to our flat. We had dinner and dessert with a little vino and cappuccino. It was an incredible feast for one. George is still recovering and pretty much watched as I indulged in my marvelous meal.

All For Me

It’s hard to put into words the absolute joy I have. My sister said I look like I found my happy place. I think she is “Spot On!” There is something about Spain. I can’t put my finger on it quite yet, but there is some magic about this country. Once I figure out what it is, or better yet when the sweet Lord has explained what He is doing in my heart, I will be sure to share that with you. Right now I am still riding the wave and enjoying every second, every minute, every hour and every day. I guess that’s what it means when you live in the moment!

Leon Cathedral, Spain 🇪🇸
At Night. Shot by George.

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