Day 22: May 31, 24 Hospital de Orbiga to Astorga Today: 11.1 miles Total Stats: 310.8 m & 500.8 km

I do enjoy sleeping in. Being we had an easy peasy day planned, I laid in bed, finishing uploading pictures. George was biting at the bit to get coffee so I sent him away and I did my thing. It was very satisfying to lay low till 730am.

Sunrise Over Orbiga

As we exited town, the excitement of this weekend’s festivities was underway. Flags were hanging above, vendors were setting up and we were wishing I had known, so we could’ve stayed. Some of the Pilgrims are thinking about riding a bus back just to stay for the day. There’s not a bed in the town, so no chance of spending another night.

Hospital de Orbiga Festival

We made our way onto the dirt path and had the choice between the road or the scenic route. The scenic route for sure! And such a good choice. We walked through newly plowed fields, some grain and corn was already planted and hills of green surrounded us. And quietness. Oh the sound of quiet. Yesterday you could barely hear each other talk over the road noise so this was a great return to the peacefulness of our walk!

Green Fields Return

There were some small villages that we passed through including Villares de Orbiga and Santabienez. Both had cafes and fruit, which at this point, is my go-to breakfast. There were some odd decorations lining the cobblestones streets. I’m not sure if they are welcoming pilgrims or warning us? And then there were kinder and gentler ones.

George and a Very Tired Pilgrim

We took a pit stop, grabbed a couple of bananas and headed on up the trail. There were lots of people walking today. I stopped and fed a couple of horses. George had been carrying an apple for three plus days, and it was ready to be purged. At first the horses weren’t sure but once I broke it open, they smelled it and came running. Well not running but nudged closer. And they gobbled it up. Problem solved. Horses were fed and George’s pack is lighter!

Yummy Apple Lady

As we followed the Pilgrims that were ahead, I noticed a fork in the road. Me and another Pilgrim were scratching our heads being the others were going a route that wasn’t even a trail, but an unknown dirt road. I looked at him and my app and stated the obvious! We are not even on the trail! He agreed and we hoofed it up a dirt path and met back up with The Way. George wasn’t having it because it was straight up a hill and he was liking the flatter non-descriptive way, but followed me anyways. Before long, we were back on the route, and on the properly marked trail with yellow arrows. As it should be.

Back on the Proper Trail

We crested the hill, looked down over the valley and saw the town below. This is definitely the right way. And the other unnamed Pilgrim agreed. The terrain was rolling ups and downs, but nothing too unreasonable.

Many Pilgrims Found Their Way

As we crested another hill, there was this patch of land that had all the trimmings and fixings for a beautiful stop. There were hammocks, lounge chairs, round table with 8 chairs and lots of food! Fruits, nuts and a squeezer to make your own OJ. Hard boiled eggs, cheese and crackers. Who does this? Sure enough the owner operator who looked like a kid, well almost everyone looks like a kid to me, came out with another dozen hard boiled eggs. I stopped and thanked Frederico for this unexpected spread. What a wonderful gesture and kind thing to do for tired and weary travelers.

Donation Based Spread

We sat with many of our Pilgrim friends and took a much needed break. Well honestly it wasn’t like we had walked for hours on end, but any break is always welcomed. We enjoyed the stop and loved the fruit! After a bit, we packed up, pushed up our umbrellas and marched on.

Pilgrims Hanging Out

The trail was stunning today. There was an interesting spot we passed that could’ve been a mint Sedona. It had red rocks that could’ve been busted out by a meteor or who knows what? It had a sink hole that was filled with water from a recent rain shower.

Little Desert Oasis

As we approached the top of the hill, we saw the town of San Justo de la Veda. There was a beautiful cross on top of the hill. Everyone stopped to admire it. George was right behind me and we also had to stop and just ponder the significance of this moment. We have walked over 300 miles and have been protected from any debilitating injuries. George has recovered from his flu and stomach bugs and seems to be trekking like a champ. It is only because of the absolute protection we have had on this journey. And that can only come from God above! I am so grateful for all that He has allowed us to do together. What a wonderful gift!

Cross Above Astorga

Our walk off the mountaintop which honestly was a bump on the trail, was quite gentle. At the bottom there was a fountain, but not any normal water spout. Someone had sculpted a Pilgrim with a Boda-Bag that was flowing water into his mouth. It was pretty ingenious and you had to stop and laugh at this. What a great sense of humor these Spaniards have!

If you Plug the Spout, It Sprays Even Moreso !

Less than six hours, we arrived in Astorga. It reminds me of a European City with a castle on the hill, a moat around it and a classic Gothic-Style Church. We headed right up to our home for the night. We met Wendy who spoke Spanish. Thank goodness I have my translator with me. She was trying her best to convey what she needed and I was picking up on half of it. By the time she was done and exhausted, she spoke to George and said, you understand what I’m saying very well. You should teach your wife Spanish! I should’ve paid better attention in my Spanish Class in High School. Oh well, at least I’m covered because I have George!

Astorga Castle & Pilgrim Museum

We unpacked, showered and hit the town. First things first, I want to check out the Cathedral. We headed over and I ran into Caroline, my Bunk Mate from Day One. It’s her birthday today and she had ice cream and soda, ready to party it up with Maria. We exchanged info and sent her on her way. I love the fact that we always run into each other on this journey. Happy Birthday Caroline.

Caroline the Birthday Girl

The Cathedral of Santa Maria de Astorga was not a disappointment. The edifice begun in 1471, within the same walls of the Romanesque predecessors from the 11th-13th centuries. The construction lasted through the 18th century, which added to its original Gothic appearance some Neo-Classicist cloister (18th century), the Baroque towers, capitals and the façade, along with the Renaissance portico. With a rectangular layout, the apsidal chapels, were very clear and bright. It has an architectural closeness to German Gothic. Each Cathedral I have visited varies. They all, in their own right, are different and uniquely constructed, adding to my incredible appreciation of the architects of each century.

Cathedral of Santa Maria of Astorga

Being we haven’t had much to eat today, it was time to hunt for some fine dining. Steak and Salad with Red Wine. Let’s hope we can fine a place we can have it all! If this is our biggest challenge of the day, we have little to be concerned with. I surely don’t miss the really world where things are getting a bit intense these days. With that, I’ll be signing off and looking for some food.

Sizzling Steak 🥩 Yum 😋

Each day that we are walking in the footsteps of St. James, and the thousands of Pilgrims that went before us, I am in awe of how great our Lord is. It is difficult to comprehend the love that Jesus Christ has for each and every one of us. I just need to be more boastful and loud about praising His glorious name! Thank you Lord for creating this world, for loving me with your entire being and showing me such undeserving kindness. I am blessed and eternally grateful for you!

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