Just a little insider info. When I write my blogs, I do so at the end of the day and preferably before I go to bed. However, I wait and listen to my Lord and his take on the following morning. I usually don’t know what scripture or how I’m going to conclude until I sleep on it. Like this morning. Being today is Sunday, I thought about the significance and then it hit me like a ton of bricks, we will be approaching the Iron Cross on Sunday. That was His plan all along. God’s perfect timing. And hence the reason my choice of scripture was selected.

This morning was colder than usual. The sky was clear, not a cloud or even a Contrail in the sky, but it was bitterly cold. We’ve climbed to 4000’ so now some 1000’ higher and there is a brisk breeze. So I doubled down and wore my black tights and had my jacket ready.

After scrambled eggs and toast, George and I walked up and out of town. Today was going to be a lot of up, with a lot of down in the afternoon. We were thinking more about the up in the morning.

As we left Rabanal, there was a large white Arabian on the outskirts of town. It was eating the grass on the edge of this rock wall, which worried me a bit. I was hoping and praying he didn’t get too close and fall off the wall. But then I thought, horses seem to be very keen to their surroundings and if they don’t fall of the Grand Canyon, I’m sure this horse will be fine.

The morning route was glorious. The mountains and hillsides were lush green with patches of snow high atop the peaks. The trail was a fire road which was fairly wide enough for hikers and bikers to pass with ease. There were lush yellow flowering bushes lining the trail, interspersed with purple sage. The combination of the two was spectacular. Everyone was in a great mood and no one seemed to be in much of a rush. As it was Sunday, the Lords Day and all things were new again.

We followed the masses for sometime and arrived in Foncebatton. It was the quintessential mountain top village with stoned walled buildings and slate roofs. This was the first time we’ve seen slate used for roofs as most of the time it is clay tile. There must be tons of snow that accumulates in these parts. In fact there was a couple of houses that had slate on the outside walls rather than stucco. Just before we crossed the road, there was a gal from Spain riding her bike with her dog in the front basket. Cutest darn thing I’ve seen on the trail. She told us they would be in Santiago in three days! Seriously, it’s gonna be another ten days before we get there. She’s cruising.

We headed to the first Cafe and George had his customary Cafe con Leche and me my Double Espresso with a dab of milk, aka Cortado. We drank more to warm up and I pulled out my jacket. We were halfway up the mountain and I wasn’t getting any warmer.

After coffee, I moved along. Just outside of this tiny village was a swampy lake and the frogs were singing. Not like California Frogs but Spanish Frogs singing a symphony that was quite soothing. I videotaped their performance as it was quite lovely.

The trail continued on a fire road and before long, crossed the paved road and turned into a single track within a mile or two, we rounded the corner and had our first glimpse of Cruz de Ferro, the Iron Cross.

This place of worship has many different meanings to the countless pilgrims that approach it. Some believed it was placed on top of the hill to guide travelers across the pass in winter months. Others state that when it was first erected, they had visitors bring rocks to place at its base to keep it uprighted. But in reality, the cross was placed there in the early eleventh century by Gaucelmo. Later Galician crop reapers would be on this path on the way to the farmlands of Castile and Leon, where they went to work. They also continued the tradition by placing a stone at its base, then called it Cruz de Ferro.

Almost every Pilgrim that we watched, approached the cross in reverence, said a silent prayer and placed a rock or token of some sort.

One of my friends I’ve met along the way shared that when her Father passed away, her son walked the Frances and scattered some of his Grandfathers ashes. Now she is here today, with her Mothers ashes and doing the same. There are many tributes and blessings that people share at the foot of this cross. It was quite meaningful for all of us today.

Another interesting feature was the Sundial that was constructed near the cross. It had the months of the year with the numbers of a clock. Based on the time of the year, and your shadow on the sundial, you could fairly accurately calculate the time of day.

George and I stayed for quite sometime before leaving this sacred place. The trail remained a narrow strip of dirt and I thought to myself that today was more like hiking than walking. We followed the ridge line of the mountain and enjoyed incredible vistas of peaks and valleys. It really has been the best hiking day of this journey, to date.

We came around a bin and saw this out of the way travel trailer converted into a full cafe. It even had indoor seating and a wood burning fireplace. Just exactly what I needed. George changed it up and ordered a Cortado with a Chocolate Donut and I had Hot Tea and a Vegetable Sandwich, which was quite delicious. We warmed up, drank more hot liquids and headed up the final hill of the day.

We finally arrived near the top with more spectacular views from both where we have been and the city below. The sun was shining brightly and the wind had died down. I stripped off my jacket, ate my banana and headed down.

The downhill was much steeper than the uphill. George has been dreading this part of the day and threatened to get a taxi. We talked about his options but honestly, this was George’s Pyrenees! He missed out as he was sick and I think, we all sell ourselves short, not having faith in our abilities. George is strong and he is ready for whatever this mountain brings. He adjusted his pack, readied himself and walked off this mountain.

About one-third of the way down, we stopped in El Acebo and had something to drink. We also pulled out all our excess fruit and devoured it. With six plus miles to go, we had some sugar and carbs to carry us through our afternoon hike. George did great. He was sure-footed and stayed the course I’m so proud of him for trusting his ability and pushing himself to finish up this day.

After it was all said and done, I congratulated him on a tough day. You are a hiker! He wasn’t too sure that he really wants to be a hiker, but for now, he’s looking forward to a cold beer and a shower. Luckily, I can make that happen.

We arrived in Molinaseca a bit after 4pm, hot, tired and a dirty mess. The ground was quite silty and our shoes, socks, legs and clothes were soaked with sweat and dust. Don’t you love that? I don’t think he’s convinced yet, but I still have another week to build him up. With God’s help, I’m gonna have a hiking partner for life!

After our shower, we went to visit the town. It’s honestly not a big town. We walked through it in five minutes but there are a lot of Bars! And that makes me happy. I had a glass of Vino Tinto (Red Wine) which I always asked for incorrectly. I guess Tinto Vino is incorrect. It’s Red Wine, but they say it Wine Red. Oh boy, I still have much to learn.

We made it back to our lovely Hostel and had a communal Brazilian Dinner. Jose and Mara love to feed us hungry pilgrims and they are serious about food. They served us with authentic Rice with Black Beans, a salsa-like concoction that goes on top (bring on some spice) with salad, and a coleslaw mixture with non-descriptive sausage and oranges. It was so darn yummy! They also make a drink that is very typical Brazilian called Kibamia which is made from Cachaca with lime, sugar and ice. I am so satisfied. Outstanding people and incredibly delicious. I can sleep good tonight. Hands-down best day ever!