Day 6: July 12, 24 Three Rivers to Toleak Point 10.2 Miles

Oh the noises of a Private Campground. We had a nice enough campsite, but the road was too close, and I thought Fourth of July was over?! Somewhere fairly close they must not have received the memo because I could hear pop-pop until close to midnight. Am I a fuddy duddy or just getting too old for this kind of stuff. Anyhow, two Benadryl’s later, I finally fell asleep.

Welcome to Twilight

Sally was hoping to score us an Uber to get back to the trail. I was quite surprised that they even had that service up here in the Twilight Zone, but to no avail, there was not a driver anywhere. So I checked out from the Campsite and started talking to Tom and Amy from Connecticut. They have a super cool Dodge Jayco Conversion Van and we’re happy to share all things Van Life with me. My hubby George would have been all excited about this machine. It is completely outfitted for their travel needs; biking, hiking, backpacking and touring. They’ve been traveling for over a month now and the only thing Tom would like to change is to add beefier tires. They do some off-roading and that could help out when the forest roads get messy. Outside of that, they love their home on wheels. After talking for awhile, Sally & I loaded our packs in their van and went for a drive to the Trailhead. Thanks Tom and Amy for the ride and definitely plan to check out Lake Crescent.

New Friends Tom & Amy

We were back on the trail close to 10am which was perfect for the tide schedule. Our low tide would occur around 1130am and we had one particular headland that was tide restricted. The three or so mile trail back to the beach was stunning. It was definitely rain forest with ferns, moss, big growth trees and fallen nursing trees that Mother Nature reused for newer plants, flowers and trees. There was hardly any sound in the forest. So deadly quiet with an occasional bird whistling or a branch breaking from some critter running from limb to limb. The ground is like sponge, soft and bouncy underfoot. Sally commented it was her favorite section of the trek so far.

In the Rain Forest

We finally arrived at the Third Beach which was littered with huge driftwood logs, and a flowing creek to cross. Once through our obstacle course, we landed on a sandy beach. The sky was covered in a blanket of clouds and misty fog along the seaside cliffs. It is much different on the South Side of Quillaute River. We had a short section of beach before the first headland at Taylor Point. Decision time. Take the beach and climb boulders or attempt the Overland Trail. I knew Sally wanted to go back in the forest and it was time for me to embrace the ladders and rope climbing. So Overland Trail we went.

First Rung of Ladders – Many More to Cone

It started with a fairly steep ladder climb. It is actually wood planks attached to heavy gauge cable and moves from side to side as you climb. I’m not sure why they construct it this way but I’m sure it has something to do with the yearly mud slides and erosion of the cliffs. This way the cable and wood can move as the mountain changes. I’m not an Engineer but that’s all I could figure. There’s a rope on the side, which can be used for extra help as you reach the top. It’s pretty darn steep. After finishing the first rung of 43 ladder steps, yes I counted them, I was relieved that was over. But no, this went on for a good 200-300’. Every time I thought we were at the top, there was another set of ladders. After 15 minutes or so we made it to the bluff and looked down on the beach. Buns of Steel, here I come!

Another Ladder

Once on the bluff, we walked in the forest for quite a bit of time. I must agree with Sally, this is pretty darn spectacular. There was no one else but the two of us on the trail. Well there were lots of bananas slugs, but no other humans. The trail was well maintained so neither of us used our hiking poles. The trees were hundreds of feet tall, the trunks were too big to wrap our arms around, even if there were more of us! I felt like a Hobbit as I was so small in this giant forest. Finally the sound of the crashing ocean returned as I started heading down. More steps but well placed steps, and no more ladders. I probably climbed 300-350 rungs of ladders and came down about 150 stairs. What a great warm-up for today!

The Little Hobbit

Back on the beach, we rounded the bend and there was Giants Graveyard. Where do they come up with these names? There was another option; climb the cliff, pulling yourself up by using nothing but a rope. I decided to take my chances with boulder hopping. I’ve gotten pretty proficient with that in the past week. We walked the beached for a quarter mile before starting our bouldering exercise of the day. I’m starting to think I’m preparing for Ninja Warrior but I’d never make the time cut. Sally, on the other hand, could definitely achieve the fastest time.

Ninja Waarrior

The interesting part of this section is the boulders have barnacles on them. Griddy, tacky rough sandpaper like substance on the rocks. This is great for attaching your feet to because the sole of your shoes have something to grip onto. Not so good if you are trying to squeeze through a boulder or two, and scrap your leg against it. One thing I didn’t do this hike was wear a skirt. I knew I’d have lots of climbing do, and a skirt wasn’t practical. I am wearing pants but they only cover my knees. I should’ve worn full pants, like Sally, so the lower part of my legs would be covered. Live and learn!

Lots of Mussels, Clams & Barnacles

We made it through the boulders and landed just north of Strawberry Peak. There were tons more tide pools with starfish and sea urchins. Gosh it’s hard to make any headway when you stop to ooh and awe at every living sea creature. But we do and somehow, someway, we still get to camp before long. We found more driftwood and stopped for lunch. There was a huge group of girls backpacking. They decided to stop and have lunch right where we were. As we are watching them, they began praying. The leader is asking them questions, and with their heads bowed and eyes closed, one by one they raise their hands. I have my suspicions of what was being asked of the girls but I know whatever it was, God was smiling. It was a pretty special lunch.

Hundreds of Sea Urchins & Anemones

With only a couple more miles to go, we packed up and headed south. The rest of the afternoon was gloriously wonderful beach walking at its finest. Nice firm sand that helped us cover miles quickly. We saw more Bald Eagles, a pair sitting on a rock, and a pair of Grey Herons. The cove we settled in is just north of Toleak Point. It’s pristine and all the campsites are stealthy and hidden in the trees. We found our home for the evening which is one of the bestest of the hike. Not sure if that’s a proper word bestest, but you know what I mean.

Beach Edge of Toleak Point

Once hunkered down, we walked about a half a mile to the creek to get our drinking water replenished. We rounded the cove and popped over on another huge beach with tons of people, camped with chairs, board games, frisbees, tents side by side for the stretch of the entire beach. We got our water and bolted back to our quiet side of the cove. To each their own. Some people like camping with all their possessions and others like laying in the sand on a Z-Pad. I’m the latter. Now I can relax, maybe take a nap and listen to the sound of the waves lull me to sleep.

One of large Group from Michigan that Camped at Toleak Beach

As I explore this region more and more, I am reminded of the blessing given to Joseph. He was blessed with fertile land, flowing streams and the sun and moon. Like the land that Joseph controlled, this wild coastline has such abundant life and treasures. I can only imagine that the Lord has created this for all of us to see, and be blessed with.

This Land is Your Land for Generations to Come

“May the Lord bless his land with the precious dew from heaven above and with the deep waters that lie below; with the best the sun brings forth and the finest the moon can yield”

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