I love Zero Days. Blue and I had no intentions of having a complete day of rest, but we sure enjoyed it. Funny thing is when you are hiking day in and day out, it’s easy to loose track of days, weeks and Holidays. This upcoming weekend is Memorial Day and Blue has her resupply box at the USPO. Problem is they are closed after 10am Saturday till Tuesday. So we need to slow down! Damascus is less than 75 miles and no point of running into town and sitting for days waiting for the post office to open. So here we stay on Our Zero Day at Roan, Virginia.

First things first, we had this incredibly delicious breakfast, that was literally, out of this world. It’s so beautifully presented that the designer of the meal talks about it as we are all salivating. We indeed, are hungry hikers! It’s all homemade from the biscuits and gravy, lemon tort, tomato basil pie, three different egg dishes including a soufflé, eggs with smoked bacon and sausage and cheesy eggs. There was the best French toast I’ve ever had with maple pecan crusted goodness, potatoes with you guessed it-more bacon, fresh fruit that was presented inside of a cored pineapple and the main course – smoked brisket that you can cut with a fork. There were pastries, muffins, and fried eggs that were actually candied. This breakfast deserves a Michelin Star! Oh my goodness, and you eat till it’s all gone. There were close to 30 of us there and we devoured it all.

No slack packing, no chores to do, just rest and relaxation. Blue and I had resupply boxes sent up the road to Station 19 and I was preparing to get us a ride. But Blue being Blue, she wants to walk. We grabbed our empty daypacks and walked the road to pick up our boxes. I don’t like road walking, especially roads where cars, trucks and Semi’s have no regard for hikers on the shoulders. It’s, like I’ve said before, one of the scariest parts of hiking. But we made it unscathed, and arrived at Station 19. Gosh, I am glad we listened to the rest of the trail gossip and chose to stay where we did. It was deplorable! Downright dingy and not my cup of tea. Evidently Dave the Owner was nowhere to be found and Lisa, his co-hart in crime was out and about! So we waited. The Beer Delivery Truck showed up and as he was unloading, Lisa arrived. Problem was that she had no keys to open up the bar or the place where our boxes were stored. But she did offer us water and we waited for Dave. About 1/2 hour later Grumpy, not so nice Dave arrived, the boxes were located and we were on our way. Lisa offered us a ride, which was unexpected and I jumped on it. Me and Blue rode in the back end of her open air Jeep as she drove us back to Mountain Harbour.

Afterwards, we hung out, soaked our feet in the river and spent the rest of the day doing absolutely nothing! It was a most perfect Zero Day. I think of the first 40 Days & 40 Nights on this trail and am overwhelmed with emotions. It has been an incredible journey to date, and hard to even think of what’s to come. Honestly there is something beautiful about not knowing. Not knowing, not worrying not even planning where I will lay my head down to sleep. On trail hikers always ask, “Where are you camping tonight?” And my standard answer is, I don’t know-when I get tired, I’ll stop. God has provided me with a flat piece of ground to rest on virtually every night. Sometimes it’s dry and sometimes it’s not. But I never need to consume my day with these small details. And that allows me opportunity to be open to the Lords leading and his destination. The spreadsheet is gone, but the hope for God’s grace and new mercy’s is always better than a planned day of PUDS!

“They are new every morning; great is your faithfulness. I say to myself, “The Lord is my portion; therefore I will wait for him.””
‭‭Lamentations‬ ‭3:23-24‬ ‭NIV‬‬

I love rain! Lots of rain. Downpours and freezing rain. Rain that causes rivers to flow down the trail. That’s the kind of rain I walked in today. Last night I fell asleep, a little after 8pm. Yep, you read that right! I was literally exhausted and with all the laughing and yakking at the shelter, it didn’t keep me from snoozing in my cozy little tent. I was out like a light.

What a day today was. I can say out of my thousands of miles underfoot, I have never ever hiked in such a torrential downpour like today! It didn’t start out that way. Last night around midnight, the light rain turned to heavy rain. Luckily my tent held up without any issues. The rain was off and on and when I woke up at 4:30am, the rain turned to a minimal drizzle. Yeah for me. I packed up, and Blue and I were on the trail by 6am.

We had two Balds to climb, Little Hump and Hump Mountain. Little Hump was fairly easy going, even with the rain. The trail was muddy and slick and I took my first of two falls. The first, no big deal. I slipped on the mucky mud and sat down on nice pillowy ferns. All good. Only Blue saw me and no real damage besides my pride. We headed up Little Hump, stopped for a morning snack under some thorny trees. Then finished up our climb before the crazy rain showed up.

Then as we were walking through the natural covered arbor, the rain really came. We exited the arbor and up, up we went. Hump Mountain is exposed. No trees to protect us, just grassy fields. There were a few other hikers that passed us as they were headed to town, hoping to beat the impending rain system that was coming our way. Unfortunately, Blue and I are not the fastest hikers on the trail and we were caught in the midst of this pounding storm.

As we were climbing Hump Mountain, I saw BLT coming up the trail. I turned and asked him how he was doing? He said, not good. What’s up? And that opened up a long conversation of what he thought the trail was going to provide for him and what it didn’t. We talked for quite awhile, listening to his expectations and unmet desires. Yet, he mentioned what he did gain from the trail and how he felt healed from some past hurts. All this occurred in the midst of a rainy day on a hill that still needed to climb! Before he left to catch his Greyhound Bus back to New York, we hugged and I shared with him Psalm 91 Bookmark. I’m not sure how he received it but he did take it, and continued on his way. It’s always sad to see friends leave the trail but I feel that the Lord led me to witness to him. Even if I planted a seed, I believe someone will water it, and before you know it, BLT will know Jesus Christ.

As we headed up and over Hump Mountain, the skies opened up like never before. The trail was a river and Blue, bless her heart, was trying to keep her shoes dry. I had to laugh because there’s no way she’s gonna keep those pretty blue shoes clean.

We both were hungry but still had a few miles to go. We stopped at the North Carolina-Tennessee border. Goodbye NC! Two states down and 12 to go. Blue found a campsite that she felt would serve perfectly for a picnic in the rain! She cracks me up. There we were, me heating water for tea, and Blue taking shelter under a tree. We ate quickly with umbrellas donned, drinking hot tea. It was like no other picnic I’ve ever had. We picked up our soaking wet packs and continued on the trail.

I think this rain was a tropical hurricane. It wasn’t warm but it wasn’t cold. Well, at least it wasn’t cold to me. Blue wouldn’t agree as she doesn’t have the body insulation that I do! After seven hours of skipping through rain puddles, slipping on slimy rocks and making our way, Roan was a welcome sight. We arrived at Mountain Harbour B&B after a short road walk.

Mountain Harbour has been the talk of the trail for the past week. It has been voted the best breakfast on the Appalachian Trail for 13 years! Breakfast, here we come, tomorrow. Blue and I have a private room that was most likely an attic conversation. We have both bumped our heads on the rafters more times than I can count, but we are warm and dry, and that is all that matters. What a nice reprieve from rain soaked tents and our wet clothes. All is good in our world.

I never know how God is going to dictate my day. Today, I could’ve never dreamed that I would be saying goodbye to a trail friend in the middle of a downpour, on the way up Hump Mountain. But our sweet Lord sure knew. How I love the way Jesus puts someone in our life, even if it’s just for a week or two. All I can do is pray that BLT will remember that he was loved, he was heard and he always has a place to come back to. I will miss you, Brave Little Toaster. May you find your way back to your people in Harlem. Until we meet again, Godspeed.

“Let your conversation be always full of grace, seasoned with salt, so that you may know how to answer everyone.”
‭‭Colossians‬ ‭4:6‬ NIV

We tried something new today. Get up at 5am and on trail by 6am. The sun is up so it’s not brutal, and the birds start chirping by 5:30am, so I’m already awake. But last night I had one of those sleepless nights. I don’t get why this happens? I’m pooped, exhausted, and have no energy to do much of anything but lie supine. And then, I toss and turn all night long. I finally took a Benadryl and slept for a few hours.

Today was a big day. Blue and I climbed several notable peaks. Well I don’t think you can really call them peaks, let alone mountains. The Appalachian Mountains are not grand in scale, but they do boast many high points that are worthy of tackling. Little Rock Knob was our first climb. We winded through a Spruce Forest and came to a rock outcropping. We reached the viewpoint shortly after 8am and I think we were the first ones up to see it. No prize obtained, but noteworthy!

What goes up, must go down. So the 400’ climb was negated with a downhill slide of 800’ to Hughes Gap Road. What I haven’t mentioned is the countless property owners who either donated or sold their interests in their properties so that the Appalachian Trail could be constructed. The Hughes Family, owned this piece of property since 1868. It was pasted down from three generations, and now is preserved by the ATC.

After crossing the loose gravel Hughes Road, Blue and I started our ascent to Roan Mountain. It is over 6200’ and dominates the skyline. The trail is lined with both Red Spruce and Fraser Fir, which are considered some of the rarest ecosystems in the world. This is due to the cold and wet conditions found on these peaks. I can attest to that! Cold and wet followed by hot and humid. It is truly a masterpiece of relic forest that dates back hundreds, if not thousands of years.

When we reach the summit, there was a plateau that had yellow flowers, tall grasses and trees on the edges. We walked to the summit which used to boast the “Cloudland Hotel.” This resort, which is no longer in existence, catered to pleasure seekers from the city along with sufferers of hay fevers. The most interesting fact is the Hotel straddled the Tennessee – North Carolina line. In fact a stripe was painted through the middle of the dining room and down the length of the banquet table. This showed where guests could legally drink alcoholic beverages, and where they couldn’t. In Tennessee, it was legal to drink but North Carolina could not. There was legend that a North Carolina Sheriff named Ron Evans (I had too) lingered around the hotel, waiting to nab a drinker who steeped over the State Line with his drink! Dirty dog Sheriff, should’ve called the State Troopers!

After milling around on the summit for over an hour, we headed down towards Carvers Gap. The forecast was predicting thunderstorms, no way, and we still had three more Balds to tackle. Round Bald, Jane Bald and Grassy Ridge Bald are all above tree line and not a super great place to be when thunder and lightning roll in. These three Balds were positioned at the end of our hike day. Bad planning on my part! As we headed up Round Bald, the sky changed. We took a few pictures, pulled out our rain covers and opened the umbrellas. Just for clarification, these are hiking approved umbrellas and do not have metal parts. No conductors, however, if I’m the tallest thing on a Bald, then umbrella or not, I need to take cover.

Sure as predicted, the thunderstorms rolled in. I had been told about freezing rain but haven’t experienced that on the west coast. We have hail the size of golf balls but this is frozen rain drops that pellet you. It was cold and wet and we tried to get up and over both Balds before the lightning hit. Our timing was impeccable and we reached safety of the forest and headed down to our desired campsite.

Today was a super day, not too hot and outside of the freezing rain, not too cold. We didn’t get all the miles we wanted but we sure had some incredible views and covered a lot of territory. The Appalachian Trail is wearing on me, in a good way. It seems the past week has been so diverse and opened my eyes to the incredible beauty of this place. I’m not a big fan of all the rain but I guess, that’s what makes it so intensely different from the West Coast, strictly speaking California. I don’t think I’d ever move here, but I do enjoy spending this time walking its mountains. There is something mesmerizing about this terrain, forests, plant-life, and weather. At least for now, I’ll embrace what it gives me and be thankful for each day I can walk this trail.

“He has shown you, O mortal, what is good. And what does the Lord require of you? To act justly and to love mercy and to walk humbly with your God.”
‭‭Micah‬ ‭6:8‬ ‭NIV

I loved our private cabin. There is something marvelous about a good nights sleep. I laid down at 9pm and didn’t budge till early this morning. Never heard any drag racing, train whistles, snoring or coughing. It was perfect uninterrupted sleep.

At 7:30am sharp, Shuttle Driver John drove us up to Beauty Gap, exactly where we hiked from yesterday. All footsteps linked and we are heading north today. It was pretty warm when we left and I have adjusted my wardrobe. Tank Top, Skirt, and my Prayer Bandana to keep the sweat out of my eyes. Shoes, Toe Socks and I’m ready to fly down the trail. Well, honestly I don’t fly but more like mosey along. That’s a bit slower!

Once we were delivered onto the trail, we headed up towards Unaka Mountain. It was a beautiful hike this morning through Red Spruce Trees. A Bird Watcher was telling me about the Kite Birds that live in these trees. They are the bird that chirp, chirp, chirps all day long. This trail has an incredible amount of birds that are ever-so-noisy. It is rare that you’ll be hiking without some bird singing it’s lungs out. Many of these tweeters are ground dwellers. They hop along the ground rather than fly. I know they can fly because they have wings, but they’re just lazy hoppers!

Blue and I stopped at Cherry Gap Shelter for snacks and water. We are getting to be Water Snobs. Our bottles were filled up at Johnny’s Hostel from the tap in the outdoor kitchen. Well, the water we get from the trail comes straight from an underground spring and it’s the best tasting water I’ve ever had. Both Blue and I promptly emptied our water bottles and filled up from the gushing spring. What a difference. The water is cold, clear and has no chlorine, fluoride or any other additives that the government seems to think is good for us. It is Living Water that the good Lord made. And it’s perfectly suited for me.

While we were eating, many of the hikers we had passed yesterday when we were headed southbound, were also arriving. There was talk about slackers and now it seems, the bug is catching on. Many others are talking about slack packing options that are coming up. There’s many reasons to do it but the best reason, I think, is you get a day off of carrying your pack. if you’re injured but still want to make up some miles, it’s a great way to stay on trail. My trail friend of mine, Hot Minute, has a bad back, is recovering from COVID and wanted to slack pack with us yesterday. Now it seems like it’s going to be a thing. I’m good with it. As long as my miles are covered, then let’s keep this train rolling down the trail.

The humidity came back, imagine that, but nothing like yesterday. The temperature was much lower so that helped. As I continued on, the Nuts Family showed up. They were in good spirits laughing and kicking rocks down the trail. I’m so impressed that this family of six have the fortitude to keep moving north. I have a hard time motivating myself let alone four kids. The youngest boy Donut, tripped and did a face plant right in front of me. Dad swooped him up, Donut laughed it off and they were up and moving down the trail. I’d still be back there nursing my wounds!

By afternoon, the thunderclouds started talking and rain came down. Blue and I were headed up our last climb, Iron Mountain when lightning was flashing before us. Oh no, we need to move and move fast. I love the thunder around here. It’s seriously loud, rolling thunder that gets your attention. The lightning didn’t appear too close and we had so many trees around, the chances of anything getting us was slim to none. We had no Balds to go over, so we were in good shape. The biggest damper to our party was that stealth camping on the ridge was not an option. We headed down the trail and decided to hunker down at Clyde Smith Shelter. There were plenty of flattish spots to make our home for the night and there is safety in numbers. We walked into camp, fairly dry being both Blue and I have umbrellas. We are definitely the envy of this trail!

I have been trying to figure out my plan of attack regarding this humidity. The fact is I didn’t ask God what I needed to do? Obviously he had it all planned out. Just as I start sweating and being one hot mess, God produces Thunderstorms and takes care of me. Of course he does! Nothing to concern myself about, at least not today. And isn’t that all he ask of us? Concern yourself only for today because you have no idea what tomorrow will bring. Thank you sweet Jesus for covering me in your perfect plan. Much better than me trying to figure it all out!

“Let us then approach God’s throne of grace with confidence, so that we may receive mercy and find grace to help us in our time of need.”
‭‭Hebrews‬ ‭4:16‬ NIV

So…I’m not sure what happened last night but I barely slept a wink. Being pitched on the front lawn of the Hostel, I heard Drag Racers going up and down the roadway till midnight. I didn’t realize that was a thing in Erwin! Once that stopped, a hammock hiker was coughing obsessively throughout the night. I’m glad I wasn’t in a Bunkhouse with him. It was tough enough being within 20’ of his constant hacking. Hopefully he is feeling better today. Finally at 4am, the Amtrak Train came through town and blows its whistle so anyone within 20 miles hears it. Needless to say, I may have slept an hour or two. Looking forward to being in a Private Room tonight. Just me and Blue.

Good news, I slacked pack today. Shuttle Driver John picked us up in his personal vehicle and drove Blue and I, along with two other gals to the top of the mountain. We arrived at 8am and headed southbound. That was different hiking the wrong way. Within a mile or two, we made it to Beauty Spot Bald which was lovely. It’s accessible by roadway so there were a lot of car campers and day hikers in the area.

Today was so much fun. With the fact that Blue and I took a couple of days off when we went to Asheville, and the event of Trail Days in Damascus, we missed quite a few of our trail friends. Today we caught up with a ton of missing friends. It took us all day to hike 10 miles because I had to stop and talk to everyone I saw along the trail.

Slack packing is revered as a day off of sorts, but with miles under foot. Instead of carrying my 25 plus pound backpack, I only have a day back that weighs, um, two pounds of less. I had some snacks, a liter of water, first aid kit and water purifier. That’s about it. I felt so light on my feet and the miles were easy peasy. Yet, as the day continued, the humidity returned! It is something to be reckoned with. I’m still trying to figure out what my best course of action is regarding this villain.

By afternoon, Blue and I arrived back to the Hostel. I planned on mailing some gear home like my 10 degree sleeping quilt, down pants, long pants and long sleeve shirt and a few other non-essential items. Anything that’ll lighten my load and keep me from expending extra energy. Blue did the same. Hopefully winter is gone for a couple of months, and I won’t regret my choice.

After sorting through all my gear, I took another shower. Two showers in two days. What a luxury! I washed my hair and wore my loaner clothes. Then washed my stinky clothes one last time. It probably doesn’t really matter as deep embedded stink is hard to remove. But it makes me feel better and it smells good for a few minutes or so.

Tomorrow we will be back to donning our full packs and humping the trail. Weather is suppose to change back to afternoon thunderstorms which honestly, I can live with. Maybe the rain will cool things down a bit. Today was over 90 degrees with a lot of humidity. In California it gets hot but it’s a dry heat. Now I truly understand what that really means. You don’t walk outside and feel like you’re in a wet sauna! I’m not sure how much of this I can take? Maybe I’ll get used to it or maybe I’ll just bring a portable fan with me! Anyway you slice it, it’s here to stay. One more thing to wrap my head around. Give me mercy Lord, this is tough stuff!

We had a little visitor last night. No, it wasn’t a bear but very loud thunder and lightning storms with a smidgen of rain. Before we turned in, Blue said she heard thunder. No way, it was just a jet. Well, she was spot on. Whistling Gap was the hub of activity last night. We had close to ten tents and some of them didn’t arrive until dark. I was sleeping by then but when I woke up, there they were. Tent City in our backyard.

I was up at my normal time but Blue was a bit behind schedule. I think the heat from yesterday took a toll on her too. I slipped out and took a little detour up Spy Rock. It was approximately 1/2 mile from camp and off of a spur trail. Being I had a little extra time to burn, before Blue caught up, I took in the sight. I dropped my pack at the base of the route, and made the arduous climb up rocks chiseled into steps. At the top was a slot rock that you squeeze through and it opens up to this gorgeous sandstone outcropping. The view was grand and the clouds added sone dimension to it. The best part was this Rhododendron in bloom. Evidently it has the constant sun rays that helps it bloom early. It was stunning!

I retrieved my pack as no one in their right mind would steal it. We all have our own burdens to carry and they sure don’t want mine! I headed down the trail and stopped at a meadow. I haven’t seen many meadows on this trail so it seemed like a great place to wait for Blue. The only issue was as I went to put my sit pad down, there was poison ivy everywhere. No wonder no one was hanging out. Blue showed up and we were back to our dynamic duo.

Today was a fairly simple hike. We were headed into Johnny’s Hostel in Erwin, Tennessee to resupply. We stopped for a break and filled up on water when a Sobo (southbound) hiker stopped. I never got his name because he talked so much and had so much intel to share, I could never get a word in inch-wise. He shared with us all the highlights of the trail, where there was water and where there was not. He had our next 200 miles planned out! The most important information that he shared with us was regarding the best breakfast on the trail. It was coming up and cannot be missed, Mountain Harbor B&B. I will rearrange our plans to make sure we get a good breakfast! It’s been nothing but Protein Coffee and Biscotti for the past month. With one exception; our fine breakfast we had back at Fontana Dam! But that was a long, long time ago. I’m ready for some applewood smoked bacon. That’s what I’m talking about and guess what? The guy that runs the B&B makes his own smoked bacon.

We were finally able to breakaway from our new friend. The trail was diverse today. Sometimes we were walking in a canopy of trees and then we’d come around a corner that was dry and rocky. It was quite interesting. The part that wasn’t interesting is the fact that it’s humid here! I think part of my dehydration is due to the fact that I’m sweating like a pig. I had to take my long sleeve shirt off and wear my tank top. I’d never, never ever do that on the West Coast. The sun is too intense and I’d burn like a lobster. Here, that’s not an issue. The trail for the most part is covered in trees. No sunburn but boy oh boy, it’s just hot and muggy. I need a change of wardrobe, that’s for sure!

This afternoon I made it to Johnny’s Infamous Hostel. It’s a quirky place right on trail with everything a hiker would need. Blue and I checked-in, were given a towel and told where we could pitch our tent for the evening. The private rooms were taken and we already experienced firsthand staying in a Bunkhouse. One and done. We both would rather sleep in our tents. Thank you very much.

We had a shower, did our laundry and took the hiker shuttle to the grocery store. If it was up to me, the Shuttle Van would’ve been red tagged for safety. It made more rattles and clunks than anything I’ve ever ridden in. Even the Dingo-ball, goat carrying Bus in Nepal was safer! But we did arrive in one piece and returned back to our humble abode. And believe it or not, I’m planning to ride it again tomorrow. I know, wreck-less abandonment.

Hiker Hostel living is something everyone should experience, at least once in their life. It’s quite a thing with shared spaces, hammocks strung around, tents on top of tents and people wearing borrowed clothes while they do laundry. No one even tries to look their best. You just dig through a pile of clothes and hope to find something that fits. This allows you to wash your one outfit and long johns. It’s humbling, to say the least, and quite interesting to see the style or lack of it, walking around town.

Another funky day on the trail. I understand that this might not be everyone’s idea of vacationing, or for that matter, fun times at Ridgemont High. But for me, it’s a place where I can be me. No makeup, no fancy clothes, no deodorant (I know) and only one outfit. It reminds me of Jesus when he walked from village to village asking others to join him. They would drop everything and go with the clothes on their back and nothing else. There’s a freedom, a sense of purpose, that you find when you have such little possessions. Right now this is my home on the trail, and I am quite content with that. And…the best part, there’s always room for one more.

²⁵ Many people were traveling with Jesus. He said to them, ²⁶ “If you come to me but will not leave your family, you cannot be my follower. You must love me more than your father, mother, wife, children, brothers, and sisters—even more than your own life! Luke 14:25-26 NIV

Last night just as I was all tucked in, Margarita walks by. She tells us she just scared a small bear about 1/4 mile down the trail from us. Great, now we are in prime Bear Territory. We secured our food and prayed for the best! Luckily, all was good on Rice Gap. No bears disturbed our sleep and all food was accounted for in the morning. Both Blue and I woke up early and hightailed it out if there.

Today was all about climbing Balds. There was Big Bald, Little Bald and a fine view of Big Bald. By 10am, after a brief stop to collect water, Blue and I hit the view point of Big Bald. It was a grassy knoll with sprawling views in most directions. We took a couple of pictures and continued on.

As we are climbing and climbing and yes, more climbing, we run into Can Do. My shoulder was hurting me and I stopped to get some relief. Can Do had stopped also and I recognized him immediately. Two years ago when I had little to no intention to hike the Appalachian Trail, I started listening to a Podcast called The Mighty Blue on the AT. Mighty Blue hiked the AT in his 60’s and started this podcast about the trail, people who hike it and others who protect and preserve it. The more I listened, I realized that there was something mesmerizing about this route on the East Coast.

Last week when I was in Hot Springs, I heard an interview on The Mighty Blue Podcast and it was Can Do. He was talking about a snake encounter, which I have some firsthand experience with now. It just so happened when I went into the ATC to get my Passport stamped, Can Do was there also. We struck up a conversation about all things snakes and thanked him for his helpful advise. And today, as I was climbing to Big Bald, I saw Can Do again. Once again, no one can hide on this trail! We talked for a bit, and then Blue and I moseyed along.

Around 1:30pm, I finally arrive on top of Big Bald. It was, well something pretty special. The mountains seem closer on this Bald. I’m not sure why that is. But once again, all the pain, suffering and agony was absent once my eyes took in the panorama view. The scenery was a bit different from other Balds as this one had some trees that bordered it. Pines, Firs and some whispy type tree that I’d never seen before.

We saw the Boys from Allen Gap on top of the Bald eating lunch. Stubs, Juanito and Dundee are thru-hiking northbound and we seem to be running into them more frequently. We met them in the rainstorm last Friday when we were all waiting for rides.

Blue and I decided to head down and do a few more miles. We planned to hike fifteen miles a day, and today was the day we both were feeling good. The terrain was tough as we still had Little Bald to tackle. The scenery helped as it was completely foreign with small white flowers covering the ground, some red heather and small willowy trees. The miles went slow but we finally made it up and over Little Bald. Quite anti-climatic with no real view.

With the warmth of the day, I felt like I had a bit of heat exhaustion. As I was heading down the final stretch of trail this afternoon, I needed to stop and take electrolytes. I actually doubled them up as I could tell my body was not recovering. Big lesson learned. I always fill my small Nalgene bottle with some sort of electrolytes daily, but this morning I was short on water. Instead I filled it with cold brew coffee which was the exact opposite of what I needed. For being fairly smart most the time and a medic to boot, I sure can be a silly goose. Lesson learned.

The rest of the afternoon was a downhill slide as we were headed to a gap. Gaps are the lower parts of the trail that typically have flatter campsites and water. We arrived around 5pm, pitched our tents and went hunting for living water. It was a bit of a walk down a narrow path to a pipe. Someone commandeered this contraption to collect water that was trickling from an underground spring. Bless you whoever made this happen. I appreciate you, as many others do too!

Today had its challenges, to say the least. The climbs were relentless, the heat of the day was stifling and my feet were not cooperating. This is typical for long distant hiking. I wouldn’t be authentic if I said everyday is rainbows and unicorns. There are certainly days that are but there are also times where I am exhausted and tired. Yet the most important part of all this is that when I’m weak and when I’m tired, I know that my mighty Lord is not! I had to put a lot of trust and faith in Jesus today. There were many prayers being prayed, many praises being heard and much strength that was supernatural. As we know, all things are possible with Jesus. And today was no exception.

“That is why, for Christ’s sake, I delight in weaknesses, in insults, in hardships, in persecutions, in difficulties. For when I am weak, then I am strong.”
‭‭2 Corinthians‬ ‭12:10‬ ‭NIV‬‬

What a Bluebird Day I had today! Not a cloud in the sky and perfect 65-70 degrees. I’m sure this won’t last long as the weather changes daily, if not hourly. But today, oh boy, it was picture perfect. I left camp before 7am, well just barely.

The morning was easier than usual with a short climb to a tall grassy hill. It was lovely and something different than what I’ve seen before. No one had mowed it down, no happy cows grazed on it, just tall grasses blowing in the wind. The trail was lined with Blueberry’s and Blackberries but unfortunately, I’m too early for those. Better to save them for the bears. They’ll need to fatten up being I haven’t seen any salmon, or for that matter, any fish of any kind in the creeks along the way.

Blue and I were getting some early morning miles in when I noticed a sign to Shelton Graveside. A short spur trail led us to the graves of a pair of Union soldiers who were killed at this location. They were visiting family in the Confederacy during the Civil War in 1863. The area is grassy with designated campsites and fire rings. I don’t think I’d camp there but the two guys, Snake Charmer and Snake Whisperer were there. I told them about my Timber Rattler encounter yesterday and showed them pictures. They were amazed by the size of that snake, let alone the 11 rattles on its tail!

As I headed down the trail, I heard someone from the Flint Mountain Shelter call out my name. It’s Geisha Girl on the trail and most hikers call me GiGi. Rapunzel and Potatoes had stopped to have their morning coffee. They spent the last couple of days at Gmone Hostel in Hot Springs, while Blue and I went to Asheville. I stopped for a bit, chatted and beat feet to catch up with Blue.

I ran into some Trail Magic, that this older couple and their dog Kobe left for us hikers. I ate Kettle Chips which are about my most favorite salty thing ever! Finally at our planned destination, Rector Laurel Road, I met up with Blue. We stopped for lunch, soaked our feet and walked to the Laurel Hostel, which was just down the road. They had a sign posted for soda, pizza and beds. Cash only! We bit and walked the road and had some drinks, emptied our trash and met up with Rapunzel and Potatoes, who also had the same great idea.

We all went back to the trail and finished up our last few miles for the day. There were several day hikers, a few Sobo’s and a handful of thru-hikers I’d never met before. It seems that with all the people taking off for Trail Days in Damascus last weekend, I’m meeting some new faces.

Our final rest stop was Sugarloaf Gap. These two gals, Census and Spice Girl stopped and yakked with us for sometime. Ends up, we all started on the same day, April 15th but I’d never met them before. After talking for awhile, they have been one day behind me until today. They caught up after one month. With our extended trip to Asheville, I’m meeting new people and seeing old friends. That’s one of the most beautiful parts of this trail. The many people I meet and reconnect with daily, if not weekly, or possibly months later.

Blue and I decided to stop short of the Shelter. Everyone we talked to today we’re headed that way. We felt we wouldn’t find a decent campsite ahead. What we did find was a perfectly flat site at Rice Gap. Once again, we would be secluded and away from certain Bear activities as Bears love Shelters where there is guaranteed food!

Today was a great day. Sometimes anti-climatic days make the best days. No snakes to sneak up on me, no crazy falls or trip ups, just a perfectly crafted Tuesday. On Tuesday mornings, you would typically find me and Blue at Bayside Cafe in Granite Bay, California. We would be making espressos, heating pastries or just talking with friends. This is our ministry. How I love volunteering and greeting everyone that walks through our Cafe Doors. We have incredible Christian leadership with Debbie who keeps us focused on the mission at hand. We are there to serve whoever walks in, which means do whatever Jesus would do. It’s pretty simple. I miss all my Cafe Family and look forward to the day I get back to making coffee and loving our extended family. Until then, happy trails!

“She is clothed with strength and dignity; she can laugh at the days to come. She speaks with wisdom, and faithful instruction is on her tongue.”
‭‭Proverbs‬ ‭31:25-26‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Oh, it was extremely hard to leave Asheville. What a wonderful weekend I had with The Sigworth’s! Jeff, Karise and Noelle were the perfect hosts. Beer is King in Asheville, NC. In the past it was all about Moonshine. But in the 1990’s the innovation of Craft Beers began and now there’s 44 Breweries in this small little town USA. I’d like to say we tried them all, but we didn’t have time. It all started at Mellow Mushroom Pizza with their many beers on tap. Afterwards, Jeff and Karise introduced us to a few they had at home. We tasted many, well into Saturday evening. Jeff made a Smoked Tenderloin that was the most flavorful pork I’ve ever tasted. Karise made her Mama’s Coleslaw, flipping amazing and Dad’s Corn on the Cob. I’m feeling a bit like a Southern, and I’m not complaining at all.

On Sunday, we headed to Biltmore Church. A great message from the Book of John regarding Jesus’ and the temple. The Pastor did a honest interpretation regarding Jesus’ temper in regards to vilifying his Father’s House of Worship. It makes me truly understand how slow to anger our Heavenly Father is, yet there is a point where we finally see the wrath of God. Not the warm and fuzzy message but the truth! And how we truly need that, right about now.

After church, we went to this extravagant hotel called the Grove Park Inn. It’s on top of a hill in Asheville overlooking the valley below. There is a signed contract with The US Government that if the Supreme Court is needed to reconvene in another location, this would be the Highest Court of the Land. There was some politicians that did not agree with this, imagine that, but the contracts were found to be legitimate and so, it stands. It’s truly a piece of history, opulent and over the top! We walked the grounds and pretended that we belonged there. Blue and I were fashionable in our town hiking attire. Perfect!

Afterwards we went for lunch at Wicked Weed Brewery. I indulged in Fish and Chips and of course, Craft Beer. We drove to The GreenMan, another Craft Brewery in town. And to finish off the day by visiting The Biltmore Estate.

The Biltmore is lavash beyond the esteemed Kensington Palace. I’m sorry Queen Elizabeth, the Biltmore trumps your palace. It is the centerpiece of Asheville and still allows common folks to walk the grounds, gardens and tour this elegant and stately residence. It was built by the Vanderbilts and is still owned by the family. I was in awe of the gardens. The same landscape designer for the White House and other premier properties designed these 100,000 plus acres of land. It’s incredibly beautiful and maintained by a staff of hundreds. From what Karise said, if you are an employee of The Biltmore, you have arrived! It’s quite the prestigious career to be employed by the Vanderbilt’s.

Well, I finally did get back on the trail. Jeff drove Blue and I back to where Karise had picked us up on Friday, Allen’s Gap. Luckily it wasn’t raining this time, but we did get a bit spitted on today. The ground was wet from previous days rain. We climbed, I know, didn’t even need to write that! Before noon, we met The Nuts Family. They are from Arizona-New Mexico and are thru-hiking with their four children. They decided on Nuts because everyone including their family thought they were nuts to do this! Mom is Natella, Dad Pecan, the kids from oldest to youngest are Pistachio, Almond Joy, Chestnut and Donut. Super cute family put us to shame as they are hiking 15-17 miles daily and started April 20th, five days after me! The kids range from 6 to 12 years old. So impressed with them. And the kids seem to be having a ton of fun!

As I was approaching our lunch spot, at Big Firescald Knob, I nearly stepped on another rattlesnake. This time it was a Timber Rattler with 11 rattles on its tail and maybe four feet long. What gives? This guy or gal was just sunny itself on the rock step that I was suppose to be using. There was a Mom and Daughter ahead and I told them my dilemma. I decided to, once again, go off trail and attempt to high tail around this behemoth snake. The issue was the route was an intense rock climb and I wasn’t sure if the snake would decide to head my way. It wasn’t rattling and didn’t seem to care that I was there so I rock climbed around it. I’m getting a bit tired of these creatures hanging out on the trail! I made it safe and sound and continued to lunch.

After my meal which was not, but could’ve been rattlesnake meat, Blue and I headed off the mountain as the rain was coming our way. It was fun bouldering and “attempting” to find our way. Blue was a bit misplaced as she didn’t see the white blaze that was painted on the rock. As I climbed up, she went low and got stuck in the pucker-brush. After realizing her miscalculation, she managed to bust her way through the brush and meet back up with me. Navigation on the AT is a bit challenging at times. Once back on course, we continued north and stopped a bit short of our intended destination. Water was a concern and my feet were done for the day. Tomorrow will be a better day with an earlier wake up and longer miles.

I received a text from my sister Kari today. She was woken by our Dads dog Dandy last night. At first she thought maybe something was wrong with Dad, but thankfully, he was fine. She took Dandy to the backyard but that wasn’t what she wanted either. Finally Kari headed out front to the neighborhood park. She said she felt like someone or something was following or watching her. She turned around and saw nothing. As she continued, she felt it again and turned and saw three lights. Kari realized that this was nothing to fear but was spiritual. After walking a bit, she and the dog went home.

This morning when Kari awoke, she talked to God about what happened. Were they angels Lord? And were there three? From heaven above, a note flew into her room that was handwritten by our Mom (see above). It was indeed three angels, sent to protect and encourage both you and Dad. I do believe that our Lord sends spiritual beings, angels or whatever you may call them, to get our attention, to protect or warn us, and maybe just to love and encourage us. I have felt the presence of angels as I hike this trail, many times. I truly believe that we have angels that keep us from harm. As I continue my journey on this trail, I pray that Jesus will continue to send down a legion of angels, to watch over all us hikers and travelers that walk down these trails. We can always use an Angel to keep a watchful eye over all of us.

“Praise the Lord, you his angels, you mighty ones who do his bidding, who obey his word.”
‭‭Psalms‬ ‭103:20‬ ‭NIV‬‬

The souls of my feet are talking to me. The rest of my body is adapting to hiking fairly well. Legs are strong, my lungs are expanding as they should, my butt is recovering but my feet are aching every afternoon! Climbing up and down, around and over, mile after mile, my feet are pretty upset with me! Usually taking my shoes off, some elevation, rest, and Vitamin I (Ibuprofen) make them feel somewhat better.

Blue and I left Laughing Heart Hostel before the crack of dawn. We knew the long day ahead and the big plans we made. We have collectively decided sleeping in a bunkhouse with four others is not our cup of tea. Next time, we will pitch our tents and sleep on the lawn. It provides much better rest and less noise. Little sleep makes big miles and climbs tough.

We walked through town again, and headed up the awaiting trail. Climbing a thousand feet for breakfast is what we do best! The trail followed the river for a moment before it broke off and headed up and over the surrounding hills of Hot Springs. We had some incredible views looking back into town, and the ridge line that bordered it.

Before long, a Dad with two teenagers passed me. They were day hikers and moving pretty quick. A bit later, Mom caught up with me. I asked if she was with the boys ahead. Ends up they are The Prince Family from New Jersey. They devised a plan ten years ago that they would hike the Appalachian Trail over a twelve year period. To date they have covered close to 1800 miles. Today they were hiking to Allen Gap, some 15 miles and another twenty miles tomorrow. They have a younger daughter, who hasn’t bought into the hiking plan, so she typically stays with Grandma while the rest of the family tics off the miles. The oldest boy was accepted to Purdue University and for his entrance application, he wrote about hiking the Appalachian Trail with his family. I’m sure that was a wonderful introduction to the school administrators of what this student could accomplish.

Around lunchtime there was a Fire Lookout Tower atop Rich Mountain. It was just a bit off trail but I had to check it out. The Prince Family had just come down from it and highly recommended going to see it. I was in. Blue was undecided but after some pursuing, she joined me for the extra credit miles. Oh, we both were so glad. What a stunning sight of Virginia in the foreground and rolling hills of Tennessee. It was the nicest of all the towers I’ve climbed to date. Constructed of metal with handrails! This tower was definitely OSHA approved. We had lunch and talked with George, as there was a cell tower within spitting distance.

Once down from the tower, we headed back to the trail. A man with his Silver Lab stopped Blue and I and told us of a Mama Bear and her cubs that were up in a tree. We walked on, making noise and Blue clacking her walking sticks. Sure enough another thru-hiker had stopped. He pointed out the Bear and her Cubs that were some 70-75’ up the tree. Another lesson learned…you can never ever out climb a bear! We walked passed them pretending we didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. Don’t look behind the curtain, as they say! That Mama Bear looked so uncomfortable as she hung on for dear life in the V of the tree. The baby cubs seemed more at ease than mama, that’s for sure!

The rest of the day was a hard sell to my aching feet. There was much elevation change with constant ups and downs. I started complaining to myself, which just sets me up for Satan to overtake my thoughts. So I turned to my IPod for some direction. Joyce Meyers has a whole series on “Is Your Mouth Saved?” This was just what I needed to hear. She spoke about the Chosen People, the Israelites and how they wandered in the desert for forty years. It was a journey they should of completed in a month or two, but they were constantly complaining to the Lord. Well we all know how that goes. It really put me in my place and reminded me the more I complain, the more I remain. When we praise God for our circumstances, we are raised! I had to apologize for myself and realize that there are many who could only dream of walking fifteen miles in a day! And here I am hiking this incredible trail, seeing the beauty around me and feeling the wind on my back. What in the world do I have to complain about?

By late afternoon, Blue and I arrived at Allen Gap. The sky opened up, and the torrential rain that was forecasted arrived. As luck would have it, my Vorlage Ski Club friends from California moved to North Carolina last year. Karise and her daughter Noelle picked us up and rescued Blue and I from the impending doom of rain all weekend. And that’s how our mighty God works!

We headed to Mellow Mushroom Pizza in Asheville. Oh my goodness! The entire wall is covered with beer taps. Where do you start? Karise recommended a Green Man IPA which was exceptionally good! We ordered pizza to go and had a beer while we were waiting. Pizza, Beer, bath and a bed. What else could I desire?

This was the perfect ending to a week of long miles with tons of elevation gains and losses. Blue and I concurred that we should stay the entire weekend. For the first time since I stepped foot on the trail, I plan to take a double zero. Two days off from hiking. That’s heaven sent! Thanks Sigworth’s for the hospitality and the friendship. Here’s to kicking up my feet up and relaxing. No more complaining.

““I have heard the grumbling of the Israelites. Tell them, ‘At twilight you will eat meat, and in the morning you will be filled with bread. Then you will know that I am the Lord your God.’ ””
‭‭Exodus‬ ‭16:12‬ ‭NIV‬‬