Another wonderful night of sleep. Last night we stayed in the Albergue but did it our way. No shared room, so the only snoring was my dear husband. We were up at 6, eating breakfast at 7 and hitting the trail by 730. Today was going to be our longest day yet. Close to 20 miles, roughly 1500’ climb all within a two mile section. The fun begins!

As we left Belorado, we met Michael. He was leaving a Donativa, which is a donation based Albergue. A friend had mentioned that if he had a chance to stay there, it surely is one of the best experiences on the Camino. When he walked in, the lady who was running the place, put her arms around him and said we’ve been waiting for you. How sweet. Then her husband took his shoes and pack, and carried them to his bed. He felt like a long lost friend who was coming home. What a beautiful gift to receive while walking all day.

Belarado has beautifully painted murals on just about any blank wall. Artwork everywhere we looked. Such incredible tributes that honor the thousands of pilgrims which pass by annually.

Moody found a Cafe and decided to grab a cup of Joe to go. Being Sunday and Union Rules are a bit lacking today, the Boss Lady, that’s me, caved. We all stopped and grabbed something to take for the trail.

Our morning walk was typical, wheat fields abound but there was something else. There was vast amounts of yellow dotting the trail. At closer inspection, I realized it was kale that had flowered. It was so brilliant.

We walked through our first town Tostantos and met a couple of Pilgrims, Nina and Jesko from Germany. Nina is a Dolphin Trainer from Playa de Carmen in Mexico. She’s fairly young, decided to quit her job and travel for the year. Such a free spirit who seems to be enjoying herself. She walks 8-10 miles a day, and typically checks into an Albergue by noon. Sounds like a perfect plan. No time constraints and no schedule.

We found our way to a Cafe-Restaurant in Villafranca Montes de Oca. There were lots of Pilgrims sitting around and being our breakfast was pretty lackluster, I felt it was time to fuel up for our climb. I saw these red bowls that were filled with warm food. That’s what I want. I asked George what he desired and he asked me to pick something out. Wow, this is the new and improved version of George. I went inside and saw many types of food from meats, vegetables and tartas. I thought I was ordering a little of each, but to my surprise I was getting a bowl of each item. I walked out with Meat, Chicken, Mushrooms, Cauliflower and Broccoli Mixture and One Big Ortega Chile. It was a feast like nothing we have had for lunch. Everything was incredibly tasty and the meat and chicken fell off the bone. It was our best meal on trail to date. No doubt!

After finishing this incredible meal, we had to tackle our climb of the day. Definitely we were fueled, but maybe a little too much of a good thing. We headed up, and up, and a little more up. The scenery was forest-like with pines, firs and shrub. It helped to shelter us from the spit of rain, which kept us cool as we climbed.

Once on top, we followed the widest trail I’ve seen on the Camino thus far. It was twice the size of a Forest Road with huge rock arrows on the ground. Someone wrote Alexa in rocks and as I looked closer, it was a memorial for a life lost much too young. I’ve noticed that quite a few Pilgrims are processing grief of some sorts. It’s poignant and makes me reflect on my many losses.

We walked on top of a plateau for quite sometime and finally started dropping. The rain was off and on but nothing too crazy. We stopped in San Juan de Ortega for a rest. The boys and I had Beer and Mel was the Sober Walker. She had her Coke and us girls took our feet out of bondage! As soon as we were considering our exit plan, it started raining. But this was real rain. Put on your Packcover, Rain Jacket, get the umbrella ready and get ready.

The last five miles were wet. We had a field of Cattle Crossings and then the big cows. I hadn’t seen livestock since I left France, which was quite awhile ago. They were minding their own business, on their side of the wired fence so no need to be concerned. Cows don’t bother me and I enjoy seeing them. What I have learned is to not drink the water where they reside.

As we were heading across the plains, an electrical storm was my biggest concern. The lightening, at first was miles away. But as we walked, it was as if we were headed directly into the eye of the storm. The thunder was overhead and the lightening wasn’t striking straight down as it was before, but horizontal across the sky. So, the question is, umbrella or no umbrella? Walking Sticks or no poles? My hair wasn’t standing up so I felt fairly safe but there was some rumbling among the COP’s.

The rain was coming down fairly hard at this point and we went through our last town of Ages. It was only a little more than a mile from our destination of Atapuerca. Moody wanted to stop at the Bar and wait the storm out. For someone who deemed himself a Navy Seal a few miles ago, I’m thinking Buddy, this is your training. Heck no, we are heading into this storm and getting to our place of respite. Boss Lady won that battle and we continued on.

Just before 5pm, and after walking close to twenty miles, we arrived at our 3-Bedroom house with a pool. The pool served us no good with the rain, but the house was exactly what we all required. The owner showed us around, had George fill the Pellet Stove with pellets, and we collapsed on the sofa. Now this is why we kept walking Moody, because we’d still be at the bar waiting for the storm to end. Thank goodness the voice of persistence and vigor won out!

Today was the day when you really figure out what you’re made of. We’ve had some tough days, some long days, some climbing days but we haven’t had it all in one day. Today was the Final Cut of who’s in and who’s out. As far as I’m concerned, we all made it! M&M went the distance and finished strong! Yes, we still have one day left with them but it will be a nice, relaxing, easy peasy twelve miles. Burgos, here we come!

M&M were up and ready was too early this morning. Mel actually was taunting the trail like she was going to war! I’m not sure what she put in her Wheaties, but I’d love to get my hands on some of that. The nice gal who runs this place had mentioned that we would have a drastic change of scenery from vineyards to fields of cereal?!?! I’m thinking she meant wheat because I just don’t see Cheerios or Frosted Flakes growing for miles and miles. But we are in Spain, so who knows?

Breakfast was the typical fare. Fresh Squeezed OJ, Toast with Meats and Cheese, Plain Yogurt (my favorite) and coffee or tea. George went straight for the OJ as his belly was not having it after a double scoop of Gelato last night. The milk is definitely not pasteurized or homogenized around these parts, so maybe laying off lactose for a day or two could help him out.

As we left our lovely Apartment, and were greeted by 20-30 Koreans all walking the Camino. They are fast, funny and quick witted. There were a couple of Pilgrim Cut-Outs that we had to take part in, so once we all had our fun and games for the morning, we were back on task. Little hill climbs, little miles and only two towns today.

Brad walked with George and Moody for a bit, while Mel & I took the lead. It was cool outside but not cold like yesterday. We did have a forecast of rain, so we’ll see if that materializes. Come what may, we got all sorts of rain gear.

The red clay dirt continued for the first few miles and still had countless perfect rows and orchards of vineyards. These grapes aren’t too particular because it seems that they can grow in red or dark clay, mountainsides or flats, hills or valleys, with or without poppies, and need little attention. Again we had miles and miles of vines.

We made it to our first town, Azofra which is fairly small but has the most important, Cafe or two. We dropped our packs and headed in. I ran into Carolina who I hadn’t seen since Day 4. She was my Bunk Mate at Orisson’s on Day 1. This was so nice talking and catching up on her journey. She met a nice Pilgrim that she was hiking with as Young Joanna has been moving much faster. I ordered a double shot of carbs, bread with Potato Tarta-Sandwich. That wasn’t exactly what I was looking for but in Spain, I’m happy to get whatever they hand me. With a banana, I was ready to conquer any mountain. I wrapped it up and took for the road.

Once back on the foot path, the terrain changed a bit. We headed down near the roadway and back to the land of cereal and grain. There was some kale sprinkled in and lots of Pilgrims on the trail. Once we reached our final climb, we stopped to have our final break and lunch. There was a perfect piece of grass that served us well and we had our picnic. Out timing couldn’t have been better because once we finished and hit the trail, the rain arrived.

It was more of a light drizzle with a smattering of heavier drops but nothing unmanageable. Everyone donned their appropriate gear, rain jackets, pack covers and me, my Chrome Dome Umbrella. It was like a Chinese Fire Drill on the trail seeing everyone getting all decked out like a monsoon was headed our way. We made it up to the top of the hill and arrived at Cinnuela.

Now this is a sad story. 2008 in the height of the Real Estate crash, many investors thought this was going to be the upcoming area to move to. They built homes after homes with apartments and golf courses, but no one came. The town has housing for up to 60,000 people and only 225 residents reside in this Ghost Town. It’s the only place that I’ve seen in Spain, completely locked upped and abandoned. Quite strange and apocalyptic in a sense.

Once out of town, we headed back onto the trail that led to nowhere. It went through farmlands forever and a day. Not really because before long we headed over the last rise, and there she was, Santo Domingo. And it was only 1pm. We really need to stop walking so fast!

Once in town, we followed the Camino towards the Church. Ends up that we are staying in this old ancient convent that was built before 1600’s.

In the Herreriano style, the construction of this convent was ordered by the Archbishop of Saragossa, Friar Bernardo de Fresneda, and was used by the Order of Observant Franciscans. He wanted the building to house a university. Inside the church is the Friar’s Sepulcher which was made around 1605 and is in a Romanist style. The building has been refurbished and converted to House a Parador (the Parador de Turismo “Bernardo de Fresneda), a diocesan workshop for the restoration of works of art, and the Logrono Diocese Museum.

It is like walking back 400 plus years. Just incredible how they kept true to its architecture, yet built elaborate hotel rooms. We were given our one pound key to open the door, no key cards here and were blown away when we stepped inside. The decor is done in 16th Century Style with velvet drapes, stone walls and views of the courtyard. And it has a soaking bathtub. It doesn’t get any better than this!

I soaked, George took a shower and we met up with M&M. We walked the town and found several eateries but decided on an Italian Restaurant that Moody claimed to have four stars. All I wanted was a big salad and they had this incredible Goat Cheese Salad with all the works. Bingo, I’m sold. George had Spaghetti, Mel Carbonara and Moody Pizza. We’re all satisfied and then walked back to the Convent, now Hotel for the evening.

We toured the Convent, Church and Museum as the skies opened up again. I had my heart on climbing the Bell Tower but I may need to wait. There was so much history, carvings dated back to the 18th Century, Bibles from millenniums passed, and painting that were made hundreds of years ago. I truly was awestruck by this walk back in time.

Around 7pm, the skies calmed down and I headed to the Bell Tower. The boys were done for the day so I went solo. No problem as I love climbing a tower myself. Not really, but I had to check out the views. It was about 10 minutes from our room, and I headed to the square. There were many pilgrims I recognized and felt right at home. As I entered the tower, a group of six women were ahead of me. Perfect company. We made it up the 100-125 stairs and it wasn’t one bell but eight huge bells. And a view 360 degrees.

What I love about Europe is the fact there are no OSHA requirements, and if you want to climb a Bell Tower, it’ll cost you $5. That was the best deal in town.

So stunning in many different ways. I stayed till the clouds looked a bit too threatening and retreated back to the ground. Just another spectacular day on The Camino!

Every time I think I’ve seen it all, Spain knocks my socks off again and again. I just didn’t realize how much I would appreciate this country and its people. Even with my lackluster Spanish, and that’s a stretch as I have been told. I really don’t speak Spanish, but the Spaniards try their absolute best to understand my gringo mixture of Spanish, English and whatever other slag or twang I add to it. Thank goodness for George! He has bailed me out countless times as I try to get my request known. For that reason, and many more, George earns the Gold Star today. He has been our constant translator and realistically, we would be up a “you know what” creek without him. Super Walker and Translator, George you are more than worthy of the golden star!

Openness is the bridge that allows us to embrace the richness of different perspectives and cultures.

We had hail last night. Luckily I was already inside and snug as a bug in a rug. And the rain came down all night long. As we prepared for our longest day yet, I had my rain jacket, backpack cover and umbrella ready. I headed downstairs for breakfast and we were back on the trail by 8am. My Trail Misfits, which I am falling more in love with daily, were locked and loaded ready to carry out our mission. Walk over 17 miles to Lograno and no taxis.

The sky looked pretty dark and glooming, which in my eyes is perfect hiking weather. There were tons of pilgrims on the trail ahead of us, including a huge group from an organized tour. They had matching shirts on, stayed in a close net area and marched like soldiers. But boy oh boy, they were having fun. Within an hour, I pulled out my trusting ole’ umbrella and was using it for a completely different purpose. Not shelter from the sun, but from the rain.

Mel and I took off ahead of the boys. They were commiserating about their mistreatment and the tough day that lies ahead. How dare I make the next city lie some 17-18 miles ahead? Couldn’t I have picked another town to rest in? Nope, there were few choices and being we are getting a full days rest, I prefer a city, not a three-horse town! So Lograno it is and get ready to use an umbrella!

We had more rolling hills but it actually started to climb a bit. Our elevation has increased and we are closing in on some pine trees and high chapperel. The elevation is close to 4000’ with typical vegetation I’d see in high desert-like areas. It really is much different from days passed.

We walked through the first tiny village of Sansol and continued into Torres del Rio. I was ready for a good strong cup of coffee so I asked the Barista for a double shot of espresso. I ended up receiving two cups of espresso. That works too. I need to work on my Spanish skills. Two cups of espresso when mixed together make one double shot, so that’s exactly what I asked for. Add a splash of milk and all is good!

After our mandatory coffee break, we were back. Today’s walk as long as it is, was relatively flat or slightly downhill. Our plan was to knock out the next 8 miles and make it to our one and only option for lunch, Viano. We kept meeting many dog people along the way, which helps us with our longing for Zoey. She is our beautiful and well-behaved four-legged sweetheart that we left at home with my also, so beautiful daughter! As we climbed one of our small hills of the day, we arrived at this makeshift pizza oven looking pile of rock. I’m not sure what it was, but it had this ornate looking peephole. As I was taking one of my umpteen pictures of the day, this cute little wired-hair terrier showed up. Ends up his owners found him in a field abandoned. They think he may have belonged to a hunter and was lost, but it’s hard to say. What a good looking dog and lucky hikers to have such good fortune.

We headed through some low lying vineyards and started to see our city on the hill. Virtually every town or village that we come to is atop a hill. And the tallest structure in the town is always, hands-down a church smack dab in the center. I believe they build the church first and once it’s completed or at least staked out, then they construct their homes and cafes near it. It’s the pinnacle of the Spaniards lives. Church, Community and Cafe’s. The three C’s of a well-balanced, happy and healthy life.

We climbed, of course, through the maze of cobblestoned streets and arrived in the town square. There we saw all the Pilgrims of the day, eating their lunches in front of the restaurants and cafes. We zeroed in on Menu de la Dia for $14. Such a sweet deal. We sat inside, as the locals often do. Only tourists sit outside, especially under the threat of rain, and ordered our Lunch. Red Beans, Mista Salad, Salmon, Pork and Chicken plus Red Wine was included. That’ll power us through the rest of the day. After our hour long lunch break, upon leaving, the town was empty. All that was left was me and my perfectly well-fed partners of the Camino.

We finished our day with gusto and made the last several miles with full belly’s and happy feet. Moody and I stopped and talked with Dennis & his dog Bobby. We had met him previously, a couple of days back on Mother’s Day. He is the proud owner of one big American Bull-Dog. They were resting on the side on the trail and Bobby was down for the day! Dennis is from Germany but has a lot of ties in the US. He was penciling in his journal which I was truly impressed to witness, especially from a young man of 20 something. I asked him what he thought of the trail so far and he was quite amazed by all the coincidences, which he is believing are more of God’s plan. The trail is opening his eyes to what really matters in life, the pure and simple things that we sometimes miss in our everyday lives. His friends had continued on but he planned to meet up in Lograno. Bobby insists on his daily siestas. Smart dog! I think even the dog is appreciating the Spanish ways of life!

Soon we crossed the bridge that I had mentioned would be our landmark that we were right around the corner from our home sweet home. These Pilgrims take everything so literally. It’s “like” right around the corner but around a few longer corners. The moaning and complaining could be heard in the Peanut Gallery! Okay so it’s around three longer corners and then “lo and behold”, we arrived.

We are staying in the heart of Logrona at this Boutique Hotel. Each room has a different theme. George and I have the room inspired by Audrey Hepburn and M&M have Earnest Hemingway. They have a lovely patio that overlooks the park, streets and Church Bell Tower. After cleaning up, showering and changing, we all met on their deck and took in the sights. Along with watching the lightening show and listening to the thunder overhead, we drank a lovely bottle of Vino. Much to my surprise, we arrived to our appointed rooms only five minutes before the downpour and electrical storm began. Now that was no coincidence.

Thank you Lord for protecting us from the storms above and the storms of life. Even though we experience things that are unclear or downright mystifying, we can always, rest assured, that you will never leave our side. Today, one of my dearest friends underwent double knee replacement. I know you are with her Lord, and giving her strength to heal. Much love to you Bertha and know you have a gaggle of Pilgrims here in Spain that are praying for your perfect healing. Godspeed my friend

For my faithful followers, I will be taking a rest day in Lograno. No blog today, but I will resume when I get back on the Camino mañana. Until then, amar, vivir y reír

Our Bed & Breakfast at Zaldu’s was extravagant. They went over and above to accommodate us. We wanted to leave early as the heat has been horrid and we haven’t been making town until after 4pm. Yesterday was no exception so early to bed and early to rise. The issue is early to Spaniards is before 8-830am. Hmm, well can you pack us a lunch and call a cab? Yes on packing take away food but the Taxis don’t start running till 8-830am. Another dilemma, but Carlos and George started talking and before I knew it, he secured us a ride. Speaking Spanish entitles you to special privileges. We had breakfast, take away lunch and a ride back to the trail.

We were dropped off at the ever-so-popular Wine Fountain. Yes, you read that correctly, Fuente de Vino.

Bodegas Irache invites the pilgrims to have a swig of his wine and thus continue the tradition of the Benedictine Monks. This Fountain of Wine was inaugurated in 1991 and is referred in many guides of the Pllgrims Way to Santiago, and visited yearly by thousands of pilgrims from different nationalities. Daily wine provision for the fountain is 100/liters per day. So bring your own cup or shell and have a taste.

There was a line of Pilgrims getting their tastes in the early morning hours. What a great tradition and novelty to take place in.

Today was probably my easiest day. Now with a week worth of trail legs and relatively easy walking, it was a breeze. The fact that it wasn’t nearly as hot as yesterday and the slight wind helped keep all things in check.

We had a slight uphill from the start but it was gradual over easy paths of hard-clay dirt and stones. We made it to our first town of Irache and much to my delight, we passed it up and decided to stop at the next village. This gave us a longer rest period before finishing the day out. We continued up our ascent and before long we were in Azqueta. It was tiny little place on top of the hill with a Cafe, small store and lots of Pilgrims.

We bought some drinks, fruit and chips and indulged. The best part was taking our shoes off! This has become customary at our lunch stops. The only thing that’s missing is a creek to soak our feet. We hung out for quite awhile, but being it was an easy day, it was permitted.

I’m starting to get the reputation of the Camino Czar enforcing fewer rest stops. But to my defense these pilgrims I’m hanging with, George and M&M need some discipline! They would run-amuck if I didn’t keep them in check. They started talking nonsense like taking taxis to Santiago and more rest days. Before long, they will require swim time by the pool, massages and who knows what?!? Someone needs to keep them on task or we’d never finish this Spiritual Walk. So you ask, what is that? To relax, to find inner peace, to smell the roses? Well dang it, if you put it that way, maybe I do need to cut them some slack. But not today, we have more miles to walk.

After we left lunch, there was a crazy turn that many missed. It was overgrown and hard to see but luckily my Motley Crew had stopped to admire a new home that they planned to purchase. So I was dead stopped on the trail and saw the turn. After yelling ahead to the Pilgrima who missed the overgrown sign, we headed down the trail. It was typical wheat fields with flowers, but as we reached the bend, I could hear music. This sweet couple were serenading Pilgrims as we passed. There was a guitar, synthesizer and a woman playing an accordion. I dropped my poles and asked for a dance. M&M joined in and we danced down the trail. La Dolce Vita in Spain.

The last few miles was rolling terrain with varied landscapes from Mountain Peaks in the background, old gothic castles on the hillsides and Farmworkers tilling the soil. A crew of three men and a women were preparing mounds of dirt for what smelled like shallots. They had black plastic sheets that they covered the mounds with just after they had harvested shallot stalks. It’s extremely hard work. Yet they did it with such ease. One row at a time, they covered each mound with surgically precision. It was a symphony, and quite beautiful to watch.

The route was so much different than anything I’ve ever hiked. And that is saying something. Beside the fields of wheat grasses are red poppies, bordering the edges. Every now and then you’ll see poppies sprinkled inside the wheat. But for the most part, they know their place. However, when we entered the last stretch to Los Arcos, I came around the corner and lost my breath. No, not from climbing but the beauty of red poppies as far as the eye could see! It reminded me of the “Wizard of Oz” but the yellow brick road turned poppy red.

For the first time with my new and improved crew of walkers, we arrived in town before 3pm. It was splendid. Now we can relax, kick our feet up and drink. There was a small restaurant in the town square and they had Sangria. Yummy, I haven’t had this since Portugal. We ordered a pitcher, had some tapas and relaxed. I had the preconceived idea that our hotel was around the corner. After indulging in our libations, we left and proceeded the 600 feet that my trusty old app had told me the Hotel was. To my surprise it was wrong and the Hotel I booked was one mile out of town. That was a bummer. My hubby had a few choice words to say about booking hotels outside of town rather than in the town square! I agree. Always nicer to be in the confines of the city walls but when you want a private room and not an Albergue, you make sacrifices. So we walked another twenty minutes and finally arrived. As Mel says, “it is what it is.” My newest and most applicable Camino phrase.

As I finish up this post, I’ll just leave the rest of the story to your imagination. We all were looking forward to having Paella after Moody and I had ordered it a few nights ago. Unfortunately, our plan did not go as we had hoped, and the only choice on the dinner menu was pizza. I can guarantee that pizza in Spain is not the same as pizza in Italy, or for that matter, the US. Spain does not have pizza down. So if you make it out this way, stick with Mista Salad or Fish, Tapas or any other Traditional Dish, but never ever order pizza. Yuck!

Each day I walk the Camino, I try to learn something. Whether it is patience or grace, love or joy, somehow my Lord shows me lessons on the trail. This week has been acceptance. Acceptance that things do not always go as planned, acceptance that people will disappoint you, acceptance that I am not perfect and honestly, far from it. I am learning to take a breath, be grateful for two feet and powerful legs that will take me the extra distance and to learn to bend when plans crash and burn. Thank you Lord for accepting me just where I am, and help me accept others as they are. You are so kind to me, and slowly but surely I will accept life as you have designed it, way before I was born! Amen.

“Accept one another, then, just as Christ accepted you, in order to bring praise to God.” Romans 15:7

I’m sorry but this will be short and sweet. Today was nothing like we had imagined. Moody is an accountant, great numbers guy and had stated that today’s walk would be 150’ of elevation gain. Sweet, that’s the best day ever. The problem with that was, Georges watch at the end of the day said we actually climbed 1560’! That’s ten times more. Hmm, and I’m going with that. We climbed 150’ the first quarter mile. It’s just another day on the trail!

We had a lot of uphill as soon as we stepped foot this morning. By 9am, I was a sweaty mess. But boy oh boy, we had some incredible views. The Frances is a trail where you can see for miles and miles! It’s breathtaking. The farther we walked, the more beautiful the Camino became. Rolling hills, huge plateaus and long vistas with wildflowers, colorful villas and gorgeous expansive views. I would compare it to the difference between the mountain tops of the Sierras and the green tunnels of the Appalachian. It is God’s wonderful imagination and His splendid glory. I love Spain.

We stopped a few too many times but that’s really not a problem unless, you want to get to your final destination in a short period of time and beat the heat. My true complaint is, it’s flipping hot! We made the command decision, as a group of four, to leave earlier. If we could be on trail by 6am instead of 8am, that would make a huge difference. We’ll see. Easier said than done.

The towns we passed through today like Manaru, Ciraqui and Lorca were dazzling. There’s something special about old wooden doors of the past mixed with modern frames of the future. The colors are virtually the same from town to town, brown, tans, shades of white and beige. The CCR’s must enforce color palettes in Spain. Whatever it is, it sure looks stunning.

We had lunch in Lorca at a tiny Cafe along the way. All I wanted was fruit and salad. Being it’s Mothers Day, the sweet Lord must have heard my petition because I had the best lunch ever. A Mista Salad and a Fruit Smoothie. It just doesn’t get any better than that. George had the same, Mel joined us and had a Smoothie and Moody, Vegetable Soup. We drank the entire blender and licked our salad bowl clean.

Our last few miles were going through fields of wheat and small towns that were virtually vacant. It’s like a Ghost Town around here. Moody is really having a hard dilemma as he just can’t figure out what these people do for a living? How can they have such tasteful homes, nice cars without a source of income? It is a great question and honestly, I have no answer. I think tourism is a big part, maybe grain production and olives, but there must be more cash flow. It’s really inexpensive here so you don’t have to make an enormous amount of money to live. The jury is still out. Moody will start pounding on doors if he can’t get an answer soon. Being a numbers guy, this is a big deal to him.

We arrived at B&B Zaldu. It is a lavish home run by an incredibly kind couple, Pablo and his wife. We checked in exhausted and they showed us around. George and I took the 2nd Floor and M&M were directly below us. All I could do was jump in the shower and cooldown. Pablo and George talked for quite sometime and I chilled out.

Later we all headed to town, had some Tapas, Beer and Wine, then made our way to dinner. For $18 you receive a Starter, Main, Dessert, Wine or Beer. It’s quite the deal. We all had plenty and headed back to our humble abodes.

Another day on The Camino. We had a long, hot day but when it was all done, we looked back and are grateful for the memories of a day well walked. That’s my perfect rendition of a Mother’s Day.

Welcome to the Camino Moody & Mel, aka M&M. And what a day it was. No easy break-in, just strap your boots on and get ready to climb. But let’s start with breakfast because who doesn’t like a full-on mouth watering eat all you can eat, gourmet first meal! This was the Hyatt on steroids. I’ll just tell you, think of any fruit market, meat counter, pastry shop, and you’ll have a great start. Then throw in a full on Honey Comb, and Espresso Machine and bam, breakfast is served.

We waddled out and after turning around a few times in front of the Hotel, we were well on our way. The morning stroll went through the city streets, which were being buffed, washed down and cleaned after last night “Just Friday Night Party.” Eventually we made it to the University, took a couple of courses, no we didn’t but we could’ve. Then out to the rolling hills of Pamplona.

This area, like many of the other areas I walked through is so lush and green. There were wild red poppy’s that lined the trail, along with waves of wheat grain. Understand this, the wheat here is not polluted or stunted like our US Frankenwheat! It is like the Super Model of Wheat, sender green stalks, worthy of chewing on with perfectly grown heads. Beside the wheat, is a field of sweet peas, tender, juicy and pretty darn tasty. It was unequivocally the Garden of Eden on the Camino.

The morning was spent climbing and climbing. Many of you know the metal sculptures on the peak, Camino Frances arrives at Alto de Perdón, the Mount of Forgiveness. It shares the peak with over 40 Wind Turbines. Between my shortness of breath and the wind created from the turning wind generating power plants lies an incredible piece of artwork.

It took us most the day to reach it, but in the end we arrived at this magnificent place. There were many Pilgrims, watching, contemplating and just taking in this beautiful view that was constructed in the late 1990’s, not long ago. But the rest of the story tells the history behind this piece of art.

“The sculpture exhibits a small history of pilgrims and the pilgrimage…through various stages of development, from the beginning in the Middle Ages up to the present day, in the form of a procession. Of the twelve pilgrims, the first pilgrim appears to be searching for the route and symbolizes the beginning of interest in the pilgrimage. Next is a group of three that depicts the growth or rise in popularity of the Camino. These three are followed by another group depicted as merchants or tradesmen on horseback that symbolize the medieval era of merchants hawking their wares to the pilgrims.

Spaced away from them is a solitary figure that characterizes the decline in pilgrimages due to political, religious, and social unrests from the mid-fourteenth to the mid-twentieth centuries. At the very end of the procession are two modern-day figures depicted to show the renewed interest and rise in popularity of the pilgrimage in the late twentieth century.”

How truly spectacular the history of this sought after place. I had no idea the meaning of these silhouettes until I researched it myself. Such a deeper meaning of time that has passed and the journeys that many have taken before me. It truly is enough to make you pause.

On the other side was a rock monument that is a memorial, symbolizes the recognition and reparation for the 92 people assassinated in 1936 and 1937 by the Francoist repressive regime, after the coup d’état against the government of the republic, in Sierra del Perdón.

This is a tribute to the victims and their families who were kiled for fighting for their ideals of social justice and democracy in Navarra. These people were killed without a triai, deprived of their homes by force and buried in mass graves in this land. All of them forgotten and silenced for 81 years. What a sober reminder of what these people fought for!

After we took in this sacred space, we slowly made our way down. The trail is mostly loose gravel and larger rocks with hard-panned dirt. It was probably the easiest path of the day. The sun was beating down and we still had a good 5-6 miles to go. There were several benches along the way and a water crossing or two. This helped to cool us down as you can soak your head or hat in the creek.

Mid-afternoon we located another watering hole called a Bar! That was a much needed stop to cool things down and give us the extra carbs to finish up our daily slog. After a beer we meandered back on the route and finished the afternoon in Puente de Reine. I won’t get into the gory details of how I almost lost my cool, but let’s just say that there were a few hoops I needed to jump through to gain access into our Apartment for the evening.

Once we opened the door and crossed the threshold, I collapsed. Hot weather is my nemesis. Mel took a shower first, then me and the boys figured out the days affairs, our mileage and tomorrow’s schedule. Once cleaned up, we headed out to a Saturday night on the town. I tell you, these people in Spain know how to have a good time. We got a recommendation for good food at the Blue Door Restaurant. We ordered drinks, George impressed upon the waitress that we needed to eat soon and she did her very best to accommodate us. Moody and I had Cod, also known as Bochalo and George and Mel had Cheese Pizza.

Such an incredibly rewarding day with lots of beautiful scenery, good food and great company. M&M have been a great addition to our dynamic duo! Mel can hike like a well-oiled machine and Moody is keeping George company in the rear. I’m thinking the next ten days will be nothing but fun, laughter and a lot of entertainment. Thank you Lord for fellowship coming in the form of M&M.

Today I was able to spend some time on the trail with Greg & Rachel, and Hannah. They are a family from Australia and traveling their 21 year old daughter who has some challenges. What a gift they are, such kind people and endearing parents. Their patience and love is priceless. Hannah and I had some laughs together, over water on the trail, hay that can be picked and sprinkled on each other and just looking at the sky. Did you know that three planes leaving one airport are on the same flight path? Contrails will never look the same. Thank you Lord for introducing me to your kindness through the lens of this precious girl.

Another hot one. George decided to take a Zero Day. Good move on his part. We headed down for customary juice, cafe latte, meat, cheese and bread. It was nourishing enough and we were on our way. Ended up a couple from San Diego was having breakfast next to us and had already called a taxi. We jumped onboard with them and I got dropped off in Zubiri. George continued to Pamplona with his new friends from San Diego. He would eventually meet up with our friends from Roseville, Moody & Mel, who plan to walk the next 130 miles with us.

The trail today was perfect. I had wished that George walked this section with me, rather than hills of yesterday. It was fairly flat with a good trail underfoot. I would pass twelve towns today. Some were barely a blip on the radar while others provided great Cafe stops. There weren’t as many Pilgrims today. Maybe they took taxi’s too.

The morning walk was lined with wildflowers, grassy fields and many horses, cows and sheep. I can always tell when I’m approaching them from the bells that sing. Now, here’s a question that one of you followers can answer for me? I understand cows having bells, not so much goats but they also fasten them on occasionally, but why would they adhere a cow bell to a horse? That just seems odd to me. Is he a runner or wayward horse that you need to keep within bell ringing distance? I just don’t get it!

After a few hours of walking, passing a few Pilgrims along the way, I stopped at a local cafe. Gosh I love these roadside stops. I spiced it up a bit today and had a double shot of espresso over ice! It was delicious, along with an apple and banana. I’ve found that all I am craving fruits and vegetables. Whenever I get a chance, I’ll take two!

After talking with Marcela and Pedro, they introduced me to a couple from South Carolina, Sally & Baynard. Yep I spelled that right. Sally told me she had never met a Baynard before either. They are an older couple on a two week stint walking sections of the Frances. It’s like a trial run to see how they like it. So far, so good. We had a nice visit and meandered on our way.

Today was hot. So hot I pulled out my umbrella and took my hat off. I have the Chrome Dome which boasts that it reduces the heat by 10-15 degrees. It really does make a huge difference. I have clamps on my pack so I can use it hands free. I received many compliments, that if I had a few extras, I definitely could have sold them. Juan, he was selling some stuff. Perched on the side of the trail listening to Dire Straits “Tunnel of Love” and dancing on the trail, he had water, juices, sodas and fruit to offer. Heck yes, I’ll take some cold water, a mandarin and I’ll dance a jingle with you. He was an interesting character. Cross between part entrepreneur and part gypsy. I kept my pocketbook close by and understood that he couldn’t be trusted completely, but he made me laugh and I got to hear some good classic Rock & Roll. I’ve noticed American Music is truly loved throughout the world.

While walking through one of the small towns Esteribar, I came across a church built back in 1158. The Illarratz Abbey, a 12th century Romanesque church located in the heart of Esteribar Valley, was a transit area for thousands of pilgrims, travelers and neighbors. Next to this Abbey is an old public path from where centuries ago the inhabitants of this Valley and all their livestock passed. After a long legal process, this path once again belongs to the Esteribar Town Council and its entire neighborhood. I’m so impressed how the towns people hold onto their heritage and fight to preserve it. Bravo Basque people!

At the end of the day, after going up and over my final climb, I walked through the City of Burlada. This was the biggest city I have seen while on my Pilgrimage this year. I crossed the Rio Ultzama which I had been following for quite some time. Kids were swimming and jumping off the Bridge, which really freaked me out! Kids being kids. I walked through the city streets, crossing several roundabouts, entered a sketchy neighborhood that I walked really fast through and back into the woods. This was the first time in four days I felt a bit unnerved.

Before I knew it, I was walking up the path near the Walls of Pamplona. Pamplona is the capital of Navarre province in northern Spain. It’s best known for the Running of the Bulls (Feast of San Fermín) in July. During this legendary multiday festival, bulls are led through the city streets by daredevil runners. This is a major stop along the Camino and is also home to Gothic-style churches including fortresslike San Nicolás.

I arrived at the Cathedral Hotel which George has already made himself at home. He has emptied his entire Backpack wondering why it weighs so much? Could it be he has too many clothes, not really. Shaving Kit, nope or is it all his extra Ibuprofen, Sport Legs, Electrolytes and Magic Potions he is carrying? Ding, ding, ding! That’s the answer. Honestly he has what he needs and it’s truly only 20 pounds but golly, it’d be much nicer only carrying five pounds on your back. So we’ve decided Donkey Service is worth a cup of coffee a day! For $6 his backpack gets transported from hotel to hotel. That’s money well spent!

After taking a shower and washing my hair, I was ready to check out this Medieval Town. We headed to the Square with Moody and Mel, and partook in our evening cocktail. Then after solving all the worlds problems, we found a hole-in-the-wall restaurant that was stupendous.

I had been craving salad and Moody wanted Paella so we were set. George went for the Special of the Day, Chop. And Mel ordered a steak. When George’s Chop came out, it was a half a side of Beef! And it was good sprinkled with Rock Salt. He shared it with Moody and me, as we also shared our incredible Paella. Dinner was the best we’ve had in Spain to date!

As we left, the streets were packed. There were people walking everywhere. Many of the young adults were sitting on the ground talking and drinking. I didn’t see a single cellphone. I told my clan I think it’s a Holiday and hence the reason everyone was out. To confirm my suspicions, I asked one of the locals what was the cause of celebration for everyone to be out? He said so matter of fact, it’s Friday, of course. Oh, that makes perfect sense!

What a great day it was. George is feeling so much better, I had an incredible day of walking, Mel & Moody are here and by golly, it’s Friday. God is good!

George and I woke up to the church bells ringing. Such a sweet way to welcome the day. Breakfast starts at 8am and we wanted to be there as soon as possible. We packed up, dropped off George’s pack for the Donkey Service to transport it. That is something we never did last year, but with him not feeling 100 percent, why not? I stashed a couple of bags inside his pack, so my load was lighter too. It’s the Camino version of Slack packing!

We had a scrumptious breakfast that never ended. Started with Fresh-Squeezed OJ and fresh berries floating on top. Then the Potato Tarta, Toasted Bread with Melted Cheese and Ham, Croissant with Apricot Preserves and my morning Espresso. That’s what I’m talking about. Now we’re ready to conquer the Camino. As we walked out the door, all the world of Pilgrims did the same.

We headed down the street, made a left turn and started our morning climb. I’m not sure but that wasn’t much of a warm-up for Georgie. I could not believe the numbers of people walking the Camino this morning. We stopped momentarily to check out the big pregnant horses and the one who already had their fouls. I’m sure there’s proper names for this, Muriel, help me out! They looked like Clydesdales or some Big-Ole Ranch Horse that could pull whatever needed to be pulled. They were more than huge in size.

Our morning climb was 1000’ of fairly upslope over the first two miles. Not exactly what we were expecting for George’s first day out. Welcome to The Camino baby, I guess it’s making up for what you missed!

We ran into the Pilgrims I had befriended and everyone greeted George like an old friend. In fact Mark had a nice pep-talk with George, easing his worries and encouraging him. This is what Camino-life is truly all about. The comradery is already happening with each of us watching over one another. It truly is something to behold.

Our day had ups and downs, litterly and George was struggling. His cold-like symptoms were still lingering and it was obvious he tried to do more than he should have. As the day progressed, I seriously considered that this was too much, too soon. Fortunately when we arrived at Zubiri, which is a tiny village at the base of the mountain. There was a lovely river running through town, with people wading in it. As we finished up the hot and sultry day, I looked to see our options to get to our resting spot. Two hours and a taxi would arrive. Seriously?!? Well the only logical thing to do is head to the local watering hole, get a beer and wait.

As we turned the corner, I saw my friend ViVi who had already beat us to beers. As soon as I was looking for a table, a taxi arrived. Hmm, is he picking up another Pilgrim or was this a God-appointed meeting? Ends up that he was looking for any Pilgrim who was in need of a ride. Thank you Lord. What perfect timing. He took my pack and poles and drove us to our Oasis on the water, Hostel Etxeberri on Embalse de Eugui. It’s a mouthful but think of Lake Comi in Italy without the high-end mansions. It’s stunning. How do I find these places?

Our Taxi Driver dropped us off at the Bar and we were done. A round of beers for everyone. Luckily that’s just me and George. We sat on the patio and ogled at the crystal clear lake. This was the best reward for a long days work and a perfect place for George to recover!

One of the interesting facts of this area is due to the extreme hills and winding roads, there are many cyclists that prepare & train for the Tour de France. Sure as we were drinking our beer, a cyclist shows up and I’m sure, he’s in contention for the next big race. I snap a photo as he puts his fists in the air. This guy’s definitely the real deal!

We hung out until dinner is served and grab the last fish stew of the day. George settles for Beef Tenderloin which is closer to Pork Jerky. I think the waiteeess was trying her hardest to speak to us in English and misrepresented the menu choices. Well, there’s always breakfast in the morning, to balance things out!

Tomorrow will be another solo day for me. After today, George is definitely not fully recovered and we have hundreds of miles to cover. So he will jump ahead, meet up with some friends, who plan to join us on this journey, and George will take a Rest Day. I am reminded of this verse and know that we can only do so much in this world, but as long as we have our faith, we will be lifted again.

It was touch & go but after a two hour delay, Delta took off. Funny thing was I had been reading about how “on-time” they boasted. 100% of their flights arrived as proclaimed, except for today. What I am unsure of is, will we make our connection from Seattle to Paris?!?! After the electrical malfunction was declared fixed, we lifted off 1-1/2 hours late. We now have a tight 30 minute connection, so let’s see how those cortisone shots worked on our aging knees. Stay tuned…

As proclaimed, Delta made it happen. We landed in Seattle, and George and I sprinted across the airport. Yep, you read that right! Across the corridor, down and up countless flights of stairs and escalators from one terminal, to a train and up to another terminal. We actually arrived with 15 minutes to spare and a bit out of breath! Whether our bags make it, well that’s a wait and see game but we are on our final leg to Paris.

I haven’t flown on Delta much. But I’m sure I’ll be flying again. Pillows, blankets and drinks were promptly provided. No delays from Seattle and we were on our way. We are flying a big Air Bus-330, hopefully not the same plane that the doors came off! We have plenty of leg room in Business Class, which after last years cramped quarters, I splurged and went big. More space, which in the end didn’t cost much extra, being you get one bag checked for free. All I carried on was a shoulder bag, and George had his man purse. Thank goodness, as we had little to slow us down on our unexpected afternoon sprints.

I watched three movies, had two glasses of wine, dinner and breakfast and slept for 30 minutes tops! Flying and sleeping don’t really go hand in hand! But the Flight Attendants were accommodating and we were well taken care of.

We arrived in Paris at 1:30pm, a bit early with sunshine and a few scattered clouds. Customs was a breeze, we picked up our luggage, yes it made it and found our way to the Train Station. That was another bit of a walk, but after sitting for 12 hours on planes, it was welcomed.

Paris feels safe with the extra Police lurking around everywhere. They helped us in finding the right train, the gal at the Train Kiosk assisted with purchasing the correct tickets for our train excursion, and we were well on our way.

The Train was more of a Metro, but clean enough with many people getting off and on. We had one connection to make, which was pretty seamless. As we walked to our next and final train, it had just arrived. We found a seat and we were off to our final stop. The transportation in France, and Europe for that matter, is pretty darn efficient.

We popped up like a mole from underground, around 3:30pm, and walked a mile to our lovely home for the next week. The local market, had our keys, talked with the owner who was quite friendly and made our way to Franck’s Apartment. Thank goodness for lifts, being we are on the 7th Floor. It’s quite the view from up here! I picked this Apartment for a couple of reasons. The outdoor patio, the location and all the five-star reviews! It’s nice having a flat in Paris for a few days and taking in the sights of the city. We have arrived!

The 17th Arrondissement of Paris is one of the 20 Arrondissements of the capital city of France. In spoken French, it is referred to as le dix-septième. The arrondissement, known as Batignolles-Monceau, is situated on the right bank of the River Seine. This s is where we are.

In 2019, it had a population of 166,543. It borders the inner suburbs of Neuilly-sur-Seine, Levallois-Perret and Clichy in Hauts-de-Seine to the northwest, as well as Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine in Seine-Saint-Denis to the northeast. It’s all foreign to me but I’m sure in the next couple of days, I’ll have the lay of the land, just before we leave. I can tell you one thing, we can see the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe and Norte Dame from our deck. I think we’ll stay for awhile!

Thank you Lord for protecting us, directing our plane safely and landing us in this incredible city. Bless the people who helped us along the way, and our steps as we travel through.