After returning from Portugal last year, George was transformed! He went from Onlooker to Pilgrim and has not looked back. They say that the trail changes you and in my husbands case, it took hold of him. Something primal, definitely spiritual but more so physical. George is transformed into a Pilgrim and now I have a partner who is willing, eager and able to take another walk.

This year, George chose the Frances. It is a 500 mile Pilgrimage that begins in St. Jean Pied de Port, climbs up and over the Pyrenees and continues west across Spain to Santiago. This will be a much greater challenge than last year for many reasons, but one that will bring us closer to the Lord. There is no doubt that we will depend on Him daily to help us connect with the countless Pilgrims we will meet along The Way. Yet allow us time to commune with Jesus, to really know Him at a deeper level, and totally depend on Him for our everyday needs.

We will be leaving in a few days, boarding a plane and flying to France. The plan goes that we will bum around Paris for close to a week, then head to the Northern Beaches of France, and finally embarking on our journey May 7th. If you’ve ever watched the movie “The Way” with Martin Sheen, it is the same route that he traveled with the ashes of his son. Quite a testament to how one persons passion turns into another’s journey. It is a powerful story and depicts the familiar route that we will follow.

Right now George is walking, with his pack on, up and down the streets and trails of Placer County. He is preparing to take off with a much greater ease and determination than his last Pilgrimage. There is something to be said about knowing what to expect, but there is also something to acknowledge; expect the unexpected. With all his training, the physical part will be a breeze, leaving the door wide-open for the spiritual encounters. Our Lord is priming us both for something deeper, more intense and lesser than just blisters, pulled muscles and tired legs. He is calling us to share His goodness, love and light by being Pilgrims to others that we meet. So standby to follow the tales or tails of George & Kelly as they embark on another journey of life, love and light.

I will make you to be a covenant to the people…to open eyes that are blind. Isaiah 42:6-7

What an incredible pilgrimage this has been. George and I have never attempted such a journey together. In the past, I typically pack my bag, and venture out on long distant trails solo. George stays home and supports me by mailing me food drops, new gear, replacement poles and occasionally, a card that confesses his love for me. This has been the Baraga’s modus operandi. But this past month, all has changed.

The first of October, George and I packed our backpacks together and headed to Portugal. We had heard of this Pilgrimage for years from friends and Actor Martin Sheen in the movie “The Way.” When we first considered this idea of walking The Camiño, we thought of many different routes but ultimately landed on The Portuguese Way, Central to Coastal from Lisbon to Santiago. It seemed to fit perfectly for the amount of time we had and the lack of elevation changes. The Portuguese Way is relatively flat with 400 miles, more or less depending on alternate and varying routes.

Many people questioned our desire to start in Lisbon. Most Pilgrims choose to begin in Porto and bypass the industrial areas that lead out of Lisbon and the surrounding areas that are less desirable. Being we had the time, and we wanted to experience all of what Portugal had to offer, we started in Lisbon.

Our first week was hot, flat and dry. There were thoughts of why? This is an arid desolate area, with a lot of industry. Graffiti on many abandoned structures and fields of grasses, corn and kale. But as we settled in, I enjoyed the surroundings. The heat, on the other hand was my nemesis. There were days when we ran low on water, if not completely dry but then a kind soul would offer us a drink, fill our bottles, and quench our thirst.

By week two, we had a rhythm. George had some minor issues with his feet. Unlike me who has feet equipped with callouses from my thousands of miles walked, George’s feet are soft like a baby’s butt. He had a few blisters to contend with, and spent a good amount of time lubing and prepping, before venturing out daily. Outside of that, he acquired his trail legs and we were making miles. This allowed us to spend more time in towns, meeting the locals, eating incredible food, and drinking like fish. After an undesirable night in a Hostel, sleeping in Bunk Beds next to a very sick person coughing all night, then having sex to ail his illness, the Baraga’s decided that private rooms were a better fit. I know, we are so particular, but this made a big difference in our nightly recovery.

Towns were our highlight only after the people we met. From our second day in Lisbon, meeting Rui our Tut-Tut Driver and Tour Guide, we realized that life, whether home or abroad, truly is about the relationships you have and share. From the Lithuanian Brothers, to Luisa from Spain, The Girls from Canada and all in between, we made friends that we will cherish.

George was the conduit in staying in touch with family and friends back home, and I thoroughly enjoyed meeting the Pilgrims along the way. It’s interesting how much we all have in common; the love we share for our home country and what is truly important at the end of this wild ride. When traveling, I have learned that almost anywhere you go, there will be people that will be embedded in your heart and soul. New and old, young and frail, yet each one has something that you will never forget. I can see the 87 year olds face who I talked with for maybe 5-10 minutes, just outside of Ansião. We laughed so much, and kept warning me of all the cars that were driving down the road. Honestly I couldn’t understand much of what she was saying and she probably felt the same. But we knew each others heart, and that is why we are placed on this earth! To love one another without words, and care about someone besides ourselves.

The weather is always a huge part of walking, hiking and the great outdoor experience. For me, the extreme heat in the first week was my biggest obstacle. I can always handle a little rain, well a deluge of rain, is what George would confess to. It was a bit crazy at times. Everything was soaked from head to toes and clear down to my underwear! That can get downright annoying but what I recall was sunshine in between the rainfall. It never got warm but the sun did shine for a moment or two, and that’s just enough time to change your attitude.

When I look back on The Camiño, it will be the most memorable experience that I have ever had with my hubby and best friend. We laughed together, we had moments of frustration and irritation, but we seemed to balance it all out with a little port, some wine and a lot of beer. The food was different. I think we’ll both agree that the seafood was outstanding, the pork and chicken were much smaller and not injected with hormones, and tasted incredible. Anything on a grill was delicious. But our biggest disappointment would be the lack of a good juicy steak. We always try to have our final meal as a culinary experience, and Lisbon was no exception. But the steak that George ordered was thin, without any marbling and not what he expected. So after our lackluster final meal, we made our way to a swanky hotel and had after dinner drinks. That made up for it. I missed vegetables and my advice to vegetarian friends is I hope you like Potatoes, French Fries, Salad and Kale. That’s pretty much sums up your culinary choices in regards to vegetables. You definitely can make up for it in the fruits you can find.

But in the end, Portugal was a country that I would highly recommend. There was nowhere we went where we ever felt unsafe. In fact I left my iPhone at the Train Station and when I went back, it had been returned. The Safe Keeper of my phone was as happy as me, well maybe not quite as overjoyed and thankful that I was, but close.

George and I are already planning on another pilgrimage this Spring. Based on the weather we had, we decided Spring might be a better option with earlier rain lending to clearer days as we proceed to our ending point. At this time, we are considering the French Way which goes up and over the Pyrenees and continues westerly across Spain. We spent little time is Spain and this will give us a chance to explore that region and country.

George’s big takeaways include that he is much more capable than he originally thought! He was quite concerned about cramping, but not one single cramp, came his way. Maybe the combination of large quantities of water and electrolytes that he consumed, and building up his milage slowly, giving lots of time to recover and develop his strength, stamina and endurance. Also, George has become a believer in clothing and shoe choices. His Altras, which are a fine choice at home did not give him the support he needed on cobblestones, rocky surfaces and asphalted roadways. His socks could use an upgrade too, as far as I’m concerned. He had more than his fair share of blisters, and this slowed him down and knocked him off trail for a day or two. But he was quite impressed with his Outdoor Research (OR) Rain Jacket that is ultralight, yet served him well in the many rainstorms we endured. His last piece of advise is get a good-fitting backpack. Both George and I used Decathlon 40 Liter Packs. Unfortunately for George and his large chest, it never did fit him right. He Gerry-Rigged it the best he could with cushion and foam tape but in the end, he would’ve been much better wearing a heavier pack that had a better fit! So George will be researching shoes, maybe socks and backpacks. And hopefully, he will wear them during his training sessions before we heads back to the ultimate training grounds of The Camiño.

Until then, we will be walking the trails of Auburn and maybe venturing out to the coastline and exploring the endless paths that we have in Northern California. If I learned anything at all during this journey, it is to never ever give up or stop pestering the people you love. I have been George’s #1 Fan and now I have a partner that truly understands my passion and love for the great outdoors. And I think he actually enjoys being outside too!

For now, I will be hunkering down and spending time with my family and friends. It has been a long five months away from my home base, and all I want to do is stay put. Wanderlust or not, this explorer is ready is call it a day. May you love the place you call home and the people you surround yourself with. For in the end, it’s not where we’ve been but who we’ve been with! Much love to each and everyone of you…

Oh my goodness. We did it! Well let’s not get ahead of ourselves. My hiking partner has not been feeling 100% the last couple of days. There definitely is a bug circling camp because I’ve heard of a few Pilgrims that are down for the count. I’m too mean and awry to get any virus taking hold of me, but George is much nicer so they flock towards him.

Our plan was to be up and out by 8am. Well we made it at 830am and I was mighty happy with that. It wasn’t going to be a Blue Bird day today so I struggled, huffed and puffed and finally got my pack cover on. Somehow my pack cover is the wrong size. It came with the pack so it’s not like I bought the wrong size. But during the putting together of pack and cover, the wrong sized cover was placed inside my pack. Every time I need to place it over my pack, there is a lot of language that isn’t appropriate. It’s a chore beyond chores! Today was the last time this girl will struggle with her itty bitty teeny tiny pack cover!

We had fifteen miles to cover with uphill climbs. I knew it was going to be a push for my sick partner, so I wanted to give us plenty of time. We headed out and within a few minutes, we saw our first Pilgrims. Rosemary and Joe from Canada were in front of us. We talked and they asked if we saw all the flowers on the graves yesterday? I commented that I did. In fact, when I made it into town yesterday, I could smell the flowers. Each graveside had huge bouquets on them. So what’s that all about?

All Saints’ Day, is also called All Hallows’ Day, Hallowmas, or Feast of All Saints. In the Christian Church, it is a day commemorating all the saints of the church, both known and unknown, who have attained heaven. It is celebrated on November 1 in the Western Churches and on the first Sunday after Pentecost in the Eastern Churches. In Roman Catholicism, the feast is usually a holy day of obligation. Here in Spain, it is a National Holiday and families and friends pay respect to the dead by adoring their gravesides with flowers and reefs. It is quite revered by the Spanish Catholics. Each place we passed had hundreds of flowers atop of each grave. It was quite a beautiful scene to behold.

No wonder there were no cars or people on the streets this morning. We couldn’t understand where everyone was?! I had a friend Marilyn who commented on my blog. She asked why there were hardly any cars or people in my pictures? I told her I usually crop them out to make the picture look less cluttered. But today, I needed no cropping because no one was mulling around.

We walked on the highway for the first 5-6 miles. We actually could’ve followed the Portuguese Way but I was trying to take a few shortcuts so George wouldn’t have to walk so far. He wants so much to finish this out strong but doesn’t have the energy this morning.

We found a Cafe and stopped for our morning espresso. That should help. We stayed for a bit, saw a few pilgrims, rested up, then hit the trail. I moved us off the highway as it was so loud and I really wanted our final day to be something special.

Once back on the country roads, it quieted down. The trail was devoid of traffic and it was, in fact, The Camiño. We ran into the Mother & Daughter Duo from Czech-Republic. They were also attempting to do the last fifteen miles today. I think most everyone wanted to finish before the big bad wind storm showed up. The News from smarty pants “Alexa” warned of a severe wind event coming to Santiago this evening. Bring it on! We have seen it all so a wind event is nothing the Baraga’s can’t handle. Words I soon will eat!

The last ten miles were a series of mostly ups. Santiago I found, is on top of a hill. It is the highest point at 886’ on the Portuguese Coastal Route. So we started our climb. George has been doing the climbs quite well and is like the little Choo-Choo Train that could. Most of our hills were through old towns with few people. I’m not sure but being “All Saints Day” there’s a good chance everyone’s at church.

We kept seeing signs for “Pilgrims Meals”. It would be our lunch stop. Four kilometers to go, then after an hour, we had one long kilometer to the O’ Camino Restaurant. We headed a bit off the trail and landed at the best place on the Portuguese Way of the Camino.

O’ Camino is decorated so well. It has full maps on the walls with every Camino laid out. The wall next to where George and I sat was the Portuguese Way, which was the highlight of this Restaurant being that’s the route in which it resides on. I started to get so emotional seeing how far we had gone, especially for George. This has been an incredible experience for the both of us, and the longest distance that George has ever undergone. Let’s be real, this is the only long distance hike he’s ever done and to think he walked over 300 miles! That’s something I’ll never forget. Way to go George!

We had the nicest waitress. I asked her what their specialty is and she went right to the Pilgrims Meal. Galician Soup and Sea Bass. Bam, that’s exactly what I want. George decided on something he knew he couldn’t go wrong with. A Burger and Fries. The soup was the best I’ve had. Galician Soup is a Chicken Broth with Greens, typically kale and white potatoes. It was so good. I asked our gal if they had Tabasco, which no one ever offers. Oh yes, she tells me. She tells me she’s Mexican and brings three kinds of Tabasco. Bless your heart. I love this woman!

We stayed for a good hour or so but finally needed to make our way to Santiago. We were 8.5 kilometers away, with mostly ups and a little down. George and I headed back onto our route and planned to finish what we started. After four weeks and 28 days, and not a lot of time off since Porto, I was ready to see the Church.

The wind came in a bit earlier than expected and the rain was wet. I guess that’s what rain is, wet! We ran into Rosemary and Joe and walked with them into the City. At this point, we veered off to our Hotel for the evening. I was soaked to the bone, George was sick and we both wanted to get to our room, remove our packs and get some dry clothes on.

After taking a long hot bath, and both of us changing into something dry, we headed to the Cathedral. We brought our umbrellas because it was raining. Imagine that? There are so many gift shops along the way. George loves shopping and he is on the hunt for a tiled Scalloped Shell that he can put on our Mailbox back at home. I am on the hunt for Santiago de Compostela and that’s all that is on my mind right now.

We headed down a narrow street, and run into a couple of the Pilgrims that we have been walking with for the past week. We congratulate one another and continue up to the church. It’s windy and wet but that’s not going to damper my enthusiasm. At last, after walking over 300 miles we have arrived.

There’s only a handful of people here with the miserable weather but we are going to celebrate! We look for the Pilgrims Office, which we find out has closed. Tomorrow we will be back for our Compostela. We both inflate our umbrellas and run to find a Restaurant, both to eat and take cover.

Our celebratory meal includes pizza, salad and George had Chinese Rolls. I drank two glasses of Sangria and George had coffee. I think we both were exhausted and just elated to know our Pilgrimage is complete.

There will be much reflection in the days to come. We will partake in the Pilgrims Mass and ride a Bus, not walk, to Finisterre. I will finish this off for the day but there will be more of the Adventures of the Baraga’s to come. Until we meet again, continue to stretch your imagination, do what you think you cannot achieve and thank God for all he has provided!

Another great night of sleep. I’m back into a rhythm of wonderful restful sleep. George, not as much. Poor guy woke up this morning and was feeling under the weather. Good thing we have a short day. We packed and headed out for a short 12 miles.

Today was the first day that I didn’t put on my pack cover! It was blue skies and I surely didn’t want to think anything negative. Placing a pack cover on a dry pack with blue skies is just absurd.

The morning was cool and great temperature for walking. The town was a flurry of motorized vehicles and kids walking to school. I saw a ton of Piligrinos walking on the trail today. More than even yesterday.

The trail was nice. No big grades, just comfortable ups and downs. There was a cafe around the five kilometer mark. I stopped for my morning espresso. But was I ever surprised when they had a traditional American Breakfast. Bacon, Eggs, Sausage and Coffee. You got to be kidding me. Yes please! The breakfast came and sure as they advertised there was all that they said but the sausage was, well, a hot dog! I was laughing when I saw it but ate it up. The eggs were so fresh with yolks that were bright orange. It was so dang good!

I was talking with George about this gal that we saw the last couple of days. Most the pilgrim’s we’ve been walking around are new to the trail. But this one blonde, I could swear we saw her back on day one or two. I struck up a conversation with her and sure as I speculated, I met her on Day Two. Delphine is from Paris but lives in Barcelona. She likes sunshine and says it’s too cold in France. We walked most the morning together. She too, is not feeling so well. There must be a bug going around.

Today was the first day in over a week that we didn’t have a drop of rain. I think it’s because I didn’t put my pack cover on! I just might keep it off till we make our way to Santiago. Less than 25 kilometers and we will be singing praises!

Our day had one big hill climb but in reality, it’s really not much. I’m going to guess it may have been 800’ more or less with the ups and downs. In my mind, a climb is 2500-4000 feet, anything less than that is a bump in the road. But when this is all you’ve done, then yes, anything over a few hundred meters is a climb. Many pilgrims were stopping and taking breaks along the way. That’s the best part of the Camino. There’s always a bench, a cafe or a place to gather yourself.

I haven’t spoke of the Pilgrim Patrol. They are Officers who watch out for Pilgrims. I noticed them much more when the weather is foul. They patrol up and down the pathways looking for anyone who might need some extra help, a ride or first aid. Delphine and I were talking when they drove up from behind us. It was such a narrow road and they barely fit their Jeep on this washed out road, but there they were. We scooted to the side as they slowly passed us. As we came around the corner, their patrol vehicle was stopped. A tree had fallen and some rocks were strung across the narrow road. They were moving everything off the trail. Delphine speaks three languages, French, Spanish and English. She started talking with the Officers and before I knew, I was getting my picture with them. Bravo Delphine. She’s a good gal to be walking with!

I had scored us a nice apartment in Padron and typical checkin is 3pm. Upon contacting the owner, they told me the place was clean and ready. We arrived by 2pm. Another incredible location and nice spot to lay our heads. The best part is the washer and dryer. George and I haven’t done laundry for a week. The issue is we only have one outfit that we hike in, and another for after hours, so laundry is quite important.

We stripped and everything we owned was in the washer! Yeah, we will be smelling fresh and clean when we arrive to Santiago tomorrow! Yep, you read that correct. After four weeks of walking the Camino, the Baraga’s will be finishing their pilgrimage.

George and I talked a bit about how we feel regarding this walk. It has been monumental in the fact that it is something we shared as a couple. I don’t think it will truly set in until we arrive at the Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela. But it’s feeling pretty great right now. I am so impressed with what George has done in these past four weeks. From the moment we exited the plane in Lisbon, he has been on his feet, doing countless miles day after day. I finally have the hiking partner that I’ve been dreaming of. My prayers were answered once again. Thanks God!

I didn’t know that Halloween is a worldwide holiday?! George and I went out to grab a bite to eat. Kids are walking around with faces painted and going from store to store, asking for candy. They don’t have the elaborate costumes that I see in the states, but a lot of make-up. It seems that this weird tradition is here to stay.

We are going to bed early tonight. Our plan is to get up earlier and be on our way by 8am. I know, that’s not early but the sun will just be rising by then. Our final walk into a place that we have been dreaming of for the past five years. Until tomorrow, have a sunshine filled day. We sure did.

I love weather guessers! They want to expound on doom and gloom, but rarely is that really the story. Granite, we had some crazy downpours last night. And again this morning. But once again, we were all cuddled up in the confines of our 3-4 Star Accommodations. I’m sorry, but seriously, nothing is going to happen to us. Now if I was in my tent, that would be a completely different story. But I’m not on the Appalachian Trail! I’m on the Camiño where life is as good as it gets.

We made coffee. Well in reality, George made coffee and I posted the blog. We packed up, grab two apples for the road, and headed out the door. First stop was the Farmacia for Vitamin I as I affectionally call Ibuprofen. It’s what keeps us moving without screaming. This go around, we bought two boxes. Enough to keep us going for the upcoming days on the trail.

The rain was relentless and our umbrellas were deployed. As we headed out, we saw many pilgrims. I must admit, Pilgrims are hardcore and weather does not scare them one iota. We saw no less than 15-20 others that weee braving the elements. No one was taking a taxi or a bus! They were all walking and pretty darn joyful! No complaining!

We had a variety of terrain today from city streets, to rural roads and dirt parts. I think this is one of the best aspects of the Camiño. If you don’t like asphalt, no problem. Because in a kilometer or two, you’ll be on a dirt trail. Oh you don’t like dirt trails, it’s okay because up ahead is cobble stones. It’s such a variety of surfaces we walk on.

Just before noon, we found an Albergue that had a stupendous cafe and diner. George and I were famished as we didn’t have a proper dinner the night before and only had an apple for breakfast. It was amazing we made it this far! Funny, we have more than our fair share of fat to burn! And fat we burned all the way to San Amaro.

I had a Spanish Omelet which is primarily eggs with potatoes and George had a Sandwich with Jamon. After that I had traditional Galicia Soup made from Kale and Potatoes in a Chicken Brith. And George had his Espresso with an Almond Tart. We were filled to the brim and ready to get back on the trail.

It was raining off and on, but we finally experienced our first hail storm in Spain. I didn’t realize it was that cold but evidently it was. Little baby ice started falling from the sky. Oh my goodness! It didn’t last long, but long enough to know that we just walked through a hail storm.

We managed to bust out ten or so miles before we walked into another cafe. You might think, wow George and Kelly are frequent flyers to Cafes. Well, you would be right but so are all the other Pilgrims. We kept on seeing the same 15-20 Pilgrims and we all were stopping at every possible place that had something to eat or drink. Especially with todays weather phenomenons, we all required some extra fuel and nourishment.

George was moving good today. No really complaints besides the usual, are we there yet? His foot was sore from his big bad blister that seems to be spreading like Poison Oak. It started as one blister, then grew another head on it, and yet another toe. It’s the craziest thing I’ve ever witnessed. Poor guy. It’s gotta hurt. No I promise not to post a picture of his ugly foot.

With less than a couple of miles, the skies cleared up enough that we dropped our jackets. It was downright warm outside. We met a sweet Border Collie along the way. She so reminded me of our dog Zoey. She was playing with us and I indulged. I started running up and down the fence with her. She was herding me the best she could with a fence separating the two of us. It was the first time this past month that I was truly huffing and puffing. Leave it to a dog to wear me out!

We made it to Casa Herreira in Caldas de Reis. it’s a small town with lots of farmlands and beautiful churches. The big deal here in a town of less than 10,000 people are the thermal baths that have been known for their healing powers. George and I must check these out! Healing sounds right up our alley.

We made it into our digs for the night. The owner and operator met us at the door and showed us around. There’s a lovely patio in the back with comfy furniture and a refrigerator filled with many adult beverages. All for your enjoyment. You got to be kidding me, plus all the tea and coffee one could ask for.

We were escorted to our room for the night. It was on the second floor with a spectacular view of the garden below and the hills in the background. I think we’ll stay for awhile. We went downstairs and partook in the beverages. No one else was there, so we had the place to ourselves. This is incredible.

I headed upstairs, showered and prepared for a night on the town. After George cleaned up, we walked into the Town Center. We shopped a bit for tomorrow’s provisions, went to the bakery and filled up on some much needed dessert. Then walked across the street for dinner. George had pork and I had lamb. Poor little lamb gave his leg for me. It sure was delicious. No dessert, nor espresso. We were done for the night.

As we left, luckily we had our umbrellas because it was coming down. We hightailed back to our lovely home away from home, and called it a night.

I haven’t mentioned this but we are closing in on Santiago. We had been planning all along to be there by November 1st and if all goes well, our plan will materialize. Tomorrow will be an easier day but come Wednesday, it’ll be a push. The way I look at it, we should work hard on our final day. George may not like that plan but he’s definitely able to do it.

As I reflect on this day, I can’t help to think of my dear friend Pam. She would be celebrating her 71st birthday today. Last year, she went home to Jesus and is truly missed by many. Especially me. I’m so grateful that she knew Jesus and is with Him today. Happy Birthday Pam. I miss you dearly.

We landed an extra hour of sleep without doing anything special! I love when the clocks fall back. Earlier sunrises with more daylight to walk. That only works if we get up earlier.

But the best part about this morning was blue skies. It was cold and brisk, but there was no rain, only a rainbow! I was praising the Lord.

George and I walked out of town and we met many new Pilgrims on the way. It was a gorgeous route this morning. We were in rural towns, with lots of gardens and terraces. Something we keep noticing in Galicia Spain are these raised concrete silos. Some are quite ornate, decorated with crosses and adorned with engravings.

We talked with Noah, a fellow Pilgrim from Spain. He gave us the story behind these. They are a specific type of granary in Galicia called Horreo’s. It is constructed for agricultural use intended to dry, cure and store corn and other cereals before shelling and grinding them. It is typically constructed of granite, oblong and narrow in shape, with permeable storage chamber. It allows the passage of air, and is separated from the ground to prevent the entry of moisture and animals. It appears that most families and farmers have one. They are much to be admired and appreciated.

After walking for a couple of hours, we found a cafe. Thank goodness because instant 3-1 Coffee isn’t really coffee! We walked inside and they were serving honest to goodness breakfast. Or at least that’s what we thought. On the menu there were Omlettes, with Jamon, Queso, Tortilla, and an array of goodies. I ordered Jamon for George and I, the Tortilla. We both received sandwiches, one with Jamon and the other, potatoes. We ate it up and then promptly left to get back on the trail.

Once outside, I went across the street to take a photo and George carried on, up the path. As I crossed back, the gal from the Restaurant was standing outside. She was speaking in Spanish which I wasn’t understanding, but just smiled at her. She kept talking when I realized, we never paid our bill. My bad! Oh my gosh, now I understand why she’s so upset. I apologized emphatically. I am so sorry. That’s the last thing I do is dine and dash! I paid our bill and gave her a hefty tip. How embarrassing.

I can guarantee you, that won’t happen again. I beat feet to catch up with George. He was a bit ahead of me, but we had some climbing to do. I caught up within a few minutes and all was good. Lucas, is Polish but lives in Germany caught up too. He walked with us for a bit. Lucas started his Camino in Porto. It amazes me the people we are meeting from all over the world.

We headed into Arcade, and passed an Albergue. There must’ve been ten Pilgrims sitting around. Not a big deal but the fact that I had never seen them before. Being we are 100 kilometers from Santiago, there’s tons of people that are beginning their pilgrimage today. It’s so exciting that we’ll be walking with so many new people.

One of the issues that I’m dealing with is no clean clothes due to the off and on rain. Usually we would wash in the sink, then hang outside, but it’s too wet and cold to dry anything. But then, we see this Laundry and Fountain in the Town Square. It is a typical example of Galician popular architecture. It is formed by combination of a laundry (a rectangular roofed structure where clothes are washed), a fountain (a construction with a spout for the water to exit) and a pool (a reservoir where water is stored for irrigation). If only I knew, I could’ve done my laundry here.

The history behind these Water Features: The traditional Galician society lived before running water in houses, and the invention of washing machines. You can see the good use of water and it’s distribution between water to drink, to wash and to irrigate the land. It was also a meeting place for woman. This was a place and time where women were responsible for the laundry. Being outside of the home, they could speak freely without the presence of men. Wow, we’ve come a long ways!

Today we had two big hills to get up and over. With one down, we started up and over Chachiero. Being today was Sunday, hunting season was in full swing. Dogs were barking and then we saw them. There were three bloodhounds running up the hill, on the hunt for wild pigs. There were signs cautioning pilgrims but we never saw any wild pigs or boars. I’m sure them pigs know it’s hunting season and are hiding out.

With a few miles left and our hills climbed, we stopped at a Cafe-Bar. I had packed out sandwiches so we ordered espresso and French Fries. Then the rain started. Thank goodness we were sitting inside. God’s perfect timing. Somehow we had escaped the crazy downpour. Once it stopped, we braved the outdoors again.

I hobbled into Ponteverde. Not sure what happened but all of a sudden my knee was not cooperating. George gave me his walking sticks and for the following two miles, I was moving slow, slower than slow. It wasn’t like I twisted my knee or banged it on some unsuspecting rock. I haven’t fallen so what just happened is quite perplexing. Whatever it was, as quickly as it came, it left. Thank you Lord!

After stopping for a very expensive bowl of soup, we packed up and walked our final steps to Ponteverde. This city of Ponteverde is an important stopover on the Portuguese Way. As we found our way, we saw The Church of the Pilgrim Virgin. It is circular in shape and has a floor plan in the shape of a scallop shell. Also the medieval Burgo Bridge has scallop shells sculpted in its’ arches. The scallop shell is quite prominent throughout this city.

Once we found our room for the night, we hunkered down and never left. My knee is better, George’s feet are healing and sometimes you just need to take a night off. Good thing because we just had a major downpour that flooded the street below us. Thank goodness, we had the sense, and exhaustion, to know when to stay indoors. And tonight is that kind of night.

George woke me up this morning. I was sleeping so soundly. That doesn’t happen often so when it does, I’m grateful that I had such deep slumber.

It was after 7am. Good thing we turn our clocks back tonight. At least the sun will come up earlier. We seem to be getting into town at a reasonable time, between 3-4pm. So if we get up and out an hour earlier, wow we could be in town by 2-3pm. We’ll see how it all pans out.

The weather has been cooperating for the most part. A few early morning sprinkles, then nothing till the end of the day. Yeah for us and all the Pilgrims out there.

We had a climb out of the City of Vigo today. At first we were in the city so all we could see where the tall buildings and some beautifully painted murals. I sent one to my friend Judi asking her how in the heck they painted such a mural? She explained that they use lifts and window watching scaffolding and paint away. These murals are on buildings that are 15-20 stories tall. That’s a lot of paint!

Once we made it out of the city and up on the hillside, the scenery was outstanding. Both George and I weren’t making much headway because we were stopping and gawking at the views. I stopped and talked with a local. She wanted to know where we started, how many days we’ve been on the trail and when we will get to Santiago? All good questions. I did my best to answer her in Spanish. She nodded and bid us farewell.

What I didn’t expect was a Pikgrim Stamp from the cutest 8 year old named Nadia. She had a fruit stand set up in her garage and lured in Pilgrims with the coveted stamp for their Passport. I was caught, hook, line and sinker. She stamped and dated our books and then we bit. How much for the mandarins and a banana? $5 later we had our Passports stamped and were eating the most expensive fruit I’ve bought on the trail. I’m sure it’s going to a good cause and it made her smile.

About mid-day, we came across the biggest waterfall I’ve seen on the Camino. With all the rains of the past week, it was flowing and spilling over. George and I stopped, unloaded our packs and I started making us lunch.

Our Swiss friend Richard showed up with a couple from Canada, Rosemary and NedJoe. Richard bought a new pair of high top water resistant leather boots. The European’s like their leather boots. They just can’t imagine wearing TrailRunners on the Camino. To each their own. What works for one, might not work for another but he was thrilled with his new shoes. And honestly, that’s all that matters.

The three continued on as George and I stayed and had our lunch. It was good as we had added a few tasty morsels we acquired from breakfast this morning. It was scrumptious and gave us the motivation we needed to finish off our daily walkabout.

We had followed a plateau for many miles which abruptly halted and started a steep decline. George’s knees were screaming as were mine. It was extremely steep for the Coastal Route. I was a bit surprised. By the time we arrived in Rendodela, all I could think about was Beer and Coffee. We found a local Sports Bar that was filled with people watching soccer. Perfect. We hung out for an hour, ran into Richard and another Pilgrim. There’s only one way to get to town, so you always run into people, time and time again.

We finished and walked the last half a mile to our destination. Our studio apartment was near the San Simon Cove, just a few blocks off the Camino. There’s a couple of nice restaurants nearby so I walked into the Traditional Tapas Restaurant. I asked the waiter when they open for dinner? 8pm. I’d like to have dinner tonight. Do you have a reservation? No but I can make one? Sure, what time? 8pm please for two. And that’s how we roll in Spain.

What I’ve learned is that Spaniards are a bit more literal than the Portuguese. The Portuguese love to stop and chat. They are welcoming and it’s hard to leave. The Spaniards seem to be a bit more reserved. Once you get them to open up, they are quite generous. Take for instance our room last night. There was no chance that I paid for the room we received. But George and I show up, we talked for awhile with the gal behind the desk, tell her about our day and how happy we are to be at her Hotel. Laura then proceeds to give us a huge upgrade. That’s the generosity we have experienced, over and over again. You just can’t help falling in love with these people. Oh the sweet life we are experiencing.

George crashed out this afternoon. We showed up to our apartment, he took a shower, sat on the couch and he’s was out like a light. I think about our children we’ve had, and how we wear them out so they fall asleep. George is no different. He’s just a big kid, playing so hard and by the end of the day, he’s exhausted! And that’s a good thing. But I will wake him up for dinner.

After the brief rainstorm, we walked down for dinner. It was traditional Spanish Cuisine. George had steak with french fries and I had Hake Fish with french fries and a huge salad we share. Good protein and great company. The place started filling up by 8:30pm and George and I walked back after the rain fizzled out. Just another day on the Camino.

Our Loft was such a sweet find. After our stay-at-home dinner, we had a little Tawny Port and easily went to sleep. The morning came quickly, and we made some home brew. With full fat creamer and sweet butter, it was better than ever. This is Blue’s kind of Coffee!

The sun was shining and the skies were perfect for a morning stroll, or an entire day of walking. Anyway you slice it, the sunlight was a welcome addition to our Camino. In fact, we didn’t get any rain to speak of today. What a blessing that was!

We followed the coast for miles. The Coastal Way is a non official alternative. It starts in Ramallosa on the promenade and continues along the sandy areas of Praia América and Panxón towards Patos beach with Monteferro on the left. After passing Patos, we leave the coast and climb to Saians where this route meets the oficial one. And that pretty much sums up the day.

There were long sandy beaches, people out walking, and a wind surfer which I watched for close to an hour as we traversed the coastline. He looked like he was having a blast, flying through the air, being drug across the water and popping in and out of the water. I’d love to give that a try!

We found a great cafe to partake in our morning ritual of espresso and croissant. I’ve become a fan of fresh squeezed orange juice but they only had Peach Juice. I’ll give that a try. It was great. I typically have a small 16 ounce plastic water bottle I carry in my skirt pocket and mix that with 1/2 juice, 1/2 water for my first drink of the day. Now I’m a fan of Peach Juice too.

We headed up the hill into a superb. There was a few beaches that hailed Surf Lessons here. This was the best area hands down that we’ve seen for surfing. The beaches were clear of jagged rocks, big plus for surfers, and the waves were rolling in sets of 2-3 waves at a time. Another plus.

As we rounded a corner, there must’ve been 15-20 people on the sidewalk above the coast. And 6-8 people in wheelchairs with some using braces like crutches. They were giving them lessons and planned to take each one out on boards. How cool was this! It always amazes me what people are willing to do to teach others to overcome. It made me smile as I passed them. What a great day they are going to have!

There were a few places that we walked today where the trail made us walk on the beach. It was a good thing that the tide was so low, and possibly a minus tide because you could definitely see that when the tide is up, it could’ve been a wet walk! There was one place where we were pretty close to the water just trying to make it to the other end of the beach. Nothing but excitement on the Camino.

We headed back up some 500’ above Sea Level to find the road. The Camino has a way of covering all aspects of the area that you are walking through. Before we knew it, we were back on a major roadway looking for a place to eat. I found us a Gas Station and bought ham, cheese, bread and cookies. Good balanced diet and then we seated ourselves on a strip of grass and ate our makeshift lunch. It wasn’t our best meal to date. Being today was a heavy milage day, it got us nourished and back on the trail fairly quickly.

As we headed back down the highway, I heard Bon Camino. There were four bicyclists that were carrying other passengers on the front of their bikes. They had these special equipped bicycles that could propel the front passenger without any help. They appeared to be unable to ride themselves but with the help of a friend or parent, they were doing their own version of the Camino. What an inspiration! Bon Camino and hope to see you in Santiago.

Such a great day we had. As the afternoon wore on, I looked to see how much further we had. Six miles to go to our Hotel in Vigo. Rather than staying along the coastline, I found a sneaky shortcut that led us on the trail along the river’s edge. Ends up that back in the day, it was the original route so it wasn’t too far off from where Pilgrims have walked. We made good time and around 3pm we arrived in Vigo.

Vigo is a huge industrial city. It is also one of the biggest Galician City in Spain. Vigo, with one of the best harbours in Europe, is a port of call for transatlantic shipping and is also Spain’s most important fishing port, known for freezing and canning. Shipbuilding, metallurgical, electrical, automotive, and chemical industries are associated with the harbour. Needless to say, it is a huge export of sardines and many kinds of fish especially shark and hake.

Once we climbed our last hill of the day, we saw something I’ve never seen before, outside an airport. It was a People Mover Conveyor Belt. Bummer, we were going downhill as it only transported uphill walkers. I almost felt like turning around just so I could use it but we’d already had more than enough miles for the day.

A couple of gals that we have been tagging along with, the Canadians Barbara and Daffoni, recommended the Hotel Zenit to us. I love tips on places to stay and restaurants to eat at, so I bit. Oh my gosh, once again the Baraga’s are living large! If anyone ever decides to come to Vigo, you must stay at the Zemit Hotel and stay in Room 901. It is spectacular. The view from our balcony is something from the Desperate Housewives of Spain.

We checked out the sights of Vigo. The area we are staying in is what I would call The Rodeo Drive of Galicia. All the high end shops, clothing, purses, perfumes, children’s toys, furnishings, if you need it, they have it! We found a Cafe and partook in our afternoon ritual of Beer first, then Espresso. I’m having to change my order up to Beer then Herbal Tea. Any Espresso or caffeinated beverage after 2-3pm, I’m up past midnight!

We walked around for a couple of hours because we haven’t walked enough already. That just shocks me that George is onboard with all this walking. By the days end, we have walked around 17 miles, and some 2000’ elevation. Way to go George!

We headed back to our Hotel and ran into Daffoni. Her and Barb had just arrived. They took a wrong turn and ended up on a side excursion that took them way off course. We all met for dinner and talked about our Camino’s. They planned everything ahead of time, locations, hotels and transports for their backpacks.

I really wish they wouldn’t had said that because I’m sure George wheels are turning. He’s wondering why on God’s green earth are we carrying our packs? Well, because we can. That’s why. And we will. Ends up George is appreciating his backpack more and more these days. He says it’s actually helping his back pain and believes that his posture has improved. Hmm, then that’s a good thing and our backpacks will stay on us and not in some random strangers car, bring lugged from place to place. That is just not a good life for something as near and dear as our big ole’ backpacks.

It’s raining. And it’s dark. Goodness gracious, we have concerns here in Spain. But the good news is we only have eleven miles to walk today. And hardly any elevation. We had breakfast with our Swiss friend Richard. He decided to take a taxi, to get some new Gortex Shoes before heading back out in the rain. Not a bad plan. I’m using plastic bags to keep my feet relatively dry.

We ate breakfast and packed our lunch. A roll with meat and cheese, a pear and a little biscuit-like cookie. That’ll hold us over. George found some olives in a bag at the Super Mercado so we are covered. Once our backpacks were loaded, we headed outside.

Yep, it’s still raining. But not a crazy downpour and pleasant enough to use our umbrellas. I must say that my umbrella is the most used piece of equipment. I would never leave home without it. I’ve used it to block the sun when it was 90 degrees and it’s the next best invention since airplanes. Or sliced bread. Or down pillows. You get the gist! I love my umbrella.

George and I decided to stay on the road today. With all the water flowing from the mountains, it’s just darn right silly to try anything else but the road. It’s paved, bright yellow so easy to follow and it’s flat. We can see the ocean, and definitely hear it. The surf is crashing and pounding on the rocks below us. At times it seems to want to splash up by where we are walking, but that’s another 30 feet. If the waves make it up here, we have bigger problems!

We saw quite a few other crazy Pilgrims walking the Camino in the rain today. I think once you resign yourself to this journey, no amount of rain or snow or ice or heat is going to stop you. Even George is moving down the road without much thought of the weather any longer.

There was an obvious route that would take us up and over the mountain. We considered it because it would save us miles. As soon as we crossed the road and went off the road and onto the trail, it was a No-Go. The water was flowing down the trail like days back on the Appalachian Trail. George definitely was not trail worthy for this off-shoot and honestly, I was happy to turn around and do the extra bonus miles. This kept us out of the mud, muck and rock. We headed back to the road and followed the coastline for the remainder of the day. From the looks of it, everyone else did the same except for the Canadians. They ventured up and over the mountain and made it down alive.

Lighthouses. I have an issue with the way they place them here on the Atlantic. On the West Coast, lighthouses are strategically placed to guide boats and ships into safe harbors. At least that’s what I recall. Here in Spain, and Portugal, lighthouses are up on the hillsides and mountainsides, near the coastline. If I was depending on sailing into a harbor, I’d end up in a hundred pieces, sinking in the Atlantic. This Lighthouse was some 500’ above the ocean breakers, and miles from any safe harbor. I just don’t get it? Maybe someone can give me some insight on why they place lighthouses where they do, because I’m thoroughly confused.

After a few hours of rain and mist, we came around a corner and saw Baiona. This city has a population of 14,000 however with tourism in the summer, the city swells to over 45,000 daily. Also the Portuguese Coastal Way goes directly through Baiona and over 30,000 pilgrims walk this way yearly.

The news of the New World – 1 March 1493

The most remarkable date in the history of Baiona is the 1st of March, 1493: that day the Caravel Pinta arrived in the port commanded by Martín Alonso Pinzón and navigated by Diego Sarmiento –a local sailor. Baiona became the first European place to know about the discovery of the New World – America. The Pinta was the fastest ship of Columbus’s fleet and was sent back to Spain to bring the news. A replica of the Pinta is docked at the municipal pier in Baiona and is now part of the local museum.

I love this place. First of all, the sky cleared up and the sun came out. That’s a super great start. It is over-the-top gorgeous with a protective coastline and islands that surround it. It has a bay that reminds me of Monterey, as it forms almost a u-shape shoreline, with colorful stucco homes dotting the beaches.

I found a great little bar and bistro. We stopped for lunch and had a burger, fries and a beer for $9 Euros. More to love about Baiona. I may never leave this place!

Around 4pm, we finally found our home for the night. This was a find on AirB&B. I guess everyone else loves this place so there was nothing suitable for the Baraga’s on Booking.com. But we have a Loft Apartment that is close to town and next to the river. It’s close enough to the trail so another good find.

We unloaded our packs, George took a shower and I relaxed for a bit. Then we hit the town. George was on the hunt for some new bandaid that our friend Sheila turned him onto. He looked in the Market but evidently they don’t have these special bandaids. You can only find them at the Farmacia. I tell you, these pharmacy’s around here have a monopoly on certain items. Sure enough, there was a rack of Compeed Bandages. I had no idea but they are the Cats Meow for blisters and anything that needs a little TLC. George bought an assortment that should last him the rest of our stay on the Camino.

We stopped at a local bar, surprise-surprise and had a Beer. Then hit the SuperMercado and proceeded to have our first meal of the trip at home. Squash Soup, Pasta Salad with Arugula and toasted Sweet Buttered Bread. Nothing too extravaganza, but all that we craved. There is something quite nice about eating in our own little abode.

With the weather systems that have come and gone, we have not had a day that the sun didn’t come out for a moment or two. Whether we have rainy mornings with sunshine in the afternoon or vice-versa, it’s been easy to tolerate when you get a chance of clear or even partly clear skies. And it sure makes for pretty sunsets. So thank you Lord, for blessing us with only 50% chance of rain because we all know that also means 50% chance of sunshine!

Sometimes you just need to know when to lay low. After yesterdays Foresthill March in the rain, I suggested that George should take a Zero. His feet were bothering him and he started walking oddly. What do you think about relaxing for the day, taking a taxi to our next destination and letting me slackpack? After much deliberation, George agreed that this was a solid plan.

We headed downstairs for breakfast. These Hotels serve a darn good and hearty breakfast. There’s never a lack of meats, cheeses, pastries, yogurts with toppings, coffee, juice and more. Every place is a bit different but I have never walked away unsatisfied.

I made my way back to the room, packed up my daypack and left my big ole’ backpack downstairs. George will transport it to the next hotel and I can be free to walk without a burden on my back. The weather was a bit funky but no rain, as of yet. I headed out and followed the coastline.

While I was walking, George was interviewing the hotel staff. There were two stone cutouts that he was looking at. The clerk explained to him that when the Convent was here in the beginning of time, 16th Century, these two turnstiles were used as Baby Drop-Offs. Say what? Parents would anonymously place their unwanted infant or toddler in this Lazy-Susan type of device, and would turn it. The Monks would then raise the infant or child as their own. It must’ve worked as this was done every so often. When you think about it, to a point this still happens today. There are Baby Drop-Offs at Fire Stations and Hospitals, saving lives. Hard to believe, but true.

As I walked along the shore, I saw many locals walking their four-legged companions. Zoey would’ve loved this kind of walking minus the rain. There was tons of murals and various art along the way. So colorful and quite tastefully done.

I made my way to the end of the point, and saw a stone statue. It appeared to be Half Pilgrim, Half Fisherman of the Sea. He was sitting, waiting and watching Pilgrims pass by. What a masterpiece he is.

The trail shot onto the road, and upward towards the highway. It was the first real climb I’ve had in a few days. There was another gal walking the Camino and I passed her, feeling a bit guilty. Without my backpack, I could head up the steep hill without gasping. We talked briefly and I continued onward.

Once I hit the highway, the rain came back. I had about an hour of reprieve so I was happy with that. It wasn’t the crazy downpour of yesterday, just a constant drip that made me wet down to my underwear. So I guess it’s more than a drip!

The Camino meandered back to a trail and took me through some farmlands and cattle fields. These were the first cows I had seen for over a week or two. But these were longhorns, real cattle, meant for eating. They were as wet as me but the difference is they didn’t care. I, on the other hand was looking for a place to get out of the weather.

I made my way through some very small villages, Area Grande and Portocelos, which had no services to speak of. I landed in the village of Oia and found a tiny Cafe. Perfect! I went in, soaked and dripping, but no one seemed to care. I ordered a double shot espresso and proceeded to linger for a bit. This is one of the best parts of walking the Camino. It never ceases to amaze me the Cafe’s that I can find along the way.

As I was finishing up my Espresso, a Swiss Pilgrim named Richard walks in. He’s as wet as I am. We strike up a conversation and I find out that he started in Lisbon, the same day George and I did. This was the first time I’ve met him. He’s not feeling 100% and was looking for a Hotel for the night. George had just sent me a picture of the Bathtub in our room. Richard was thrilled and was hoping for a room with a bathtub too. He called and sure enough, scored a room with a tub and we were on our way.

The rain was still coming down pretty good. Lucky for us, we had less than three miles to go. Richard wears leather boots while I wear trail runners. As we were walking the last miles together, I was submerging my feet in the puddles as my feet were already soaked. He tried, without much luck, to sidestep the puddles. At least with my shoes, they’ll dry out relatively quickly where Richards boots will be wet for days. He says he gets old newspapers, crumbles them up and shoves it inside his boots. It works for soaking up some of the moisture, but I’ll stick to drying my shoes out with a blow dryer. That works pretty good too.

We passed many more cows, horses and farmlands that lined the coastline. It would’ve been nice to see this on a sunny day but that wasn’t gonna happen. The walk went fast having someone to chat with. Richard and his wife walked the Camino a couple of years ago. They did the Norte Route which follows the northern shoreline of Spain. I believe it is one of the first routes of the Camino behind the Primitivo Route. He said it was quite difficult but had stunning views, yet much more primitive than the Portuguese Way.

Before I knew it, we had arrived at our Hotel for the evening. Hotel Glasgow is a nice place, smack dap in the middle of nowhere. There truly is not much out here. George was drinking coffee and had already lined up a dryer for me. They do not have a laundromat but they were willing to dry my clothes in their commercial dryer that they use for the linens. How nice is that.

I headed to the room, stripped off my soaking wet clothes and took a hot jacuzzi bath. Yep, that’s right. There is actually a jetted tub in our room. Some have wondered how I’ve found such nice accommodations? Even George has asked me how I was going to beat this?

There is an app called WisePilgrims. For a small fee of $4.99, you can download maps and all sorts of endless information regarding the circuit of trails. It has nearly all the routes of the Camino. Bookings.com must be in cahoots with WisePilgrims because each town, with accommodations, gives you the option to book a room. That’s when bookings.com opens up the wide array of rooms from Albergues, Hostels, Bed & Breakfasts and Hotels. Then you choose what accommodations you prefer.

I can say that all, but one, was as described on the site. Some are better than others but that is based mostly on price and location. I always read the reviews before selecting our home for the night. It’s been pretty simple, booking along the way. And I only book one night ahead. This gives George and I the ability to determine how far, or not as far, that we are willing to walk the following day. Easy Peasy!

Our Hotel tonight has a restaurant. Now that we are in Spain, our clock moved forward by an hour. Not such a big deal except for the fact that I really have no intention on walking in the dark. When I woke up this morning at 7am, it was pitch black outside. So no walking until 8:30 or later. The other thing is Spaniards eat dinner later than Portuguese. Restaurants don’t even open for supper until 8am. So starting later is the way that the Baraga’s will roll. Honestly it won’t be a big issue being we seldom were on the trail much earlier than 9am anyhow.

One last thing. I did a little bit of surgery on George’s foot this evening. He had a large blister that needed to be drained so I cut off his foot. It’s okay now being he has another foot. No, I didn’t do that but I poked it with a needle and clear fluid came out of it. No wonder he was hobbling around. He’s as good as new and should be flying down the trail tomorrow.

We plan to continue north on the Coastal Route and brave this rain. It doesn’t seem to want to let up anytime soon. I guess that’s part of this adventure and our Camino. As long as the Lord doesn’t have us building an Ark, we will be fine. Until tomorrow, may your days be filled with love and laughter, and a little bit of sunshine! Adios, from Spain.