I do enjoy sleeping in. Being we had an easy peasy day planned, I laid in bed, finishing uploading pictures. George was biting at the bit to get coffee so I sent him away and I did my thing. It was very satisfying to lay low till 730am.

As we exited town, the excitement of this weekend’s festivities was underway. Flags were hanging above, vendors were setting up and we were wishing I had known, so we could’ve stayed. Some of the Pilgrims are thinking about riding a bus back just to stay for the day. There’s not a bed in the town, so no chance of spending another night.

We made our way onto the dirt path and had the choice between the road or the scenic route. The scenic route for sure! And such a good choice. We walked through newly plowed fields, some grain and corn was already planted and hills of green surrounded us. And quietness. Oh the sound of quiet. Yesterday you could barely hear each other talk over the road noise so this was a great return to the peacefulness of our walk!

There were some small villages that we passed through including Villares de Orbiga and Santabienez. Both had cafes and fruit, which at this point, is my go-to breakfast. There were some odd decorations lining the cobblestones streets. I’m not sure if they are welcoming pilgrims or warning us? And then there were kinder and gentler ones.

We took a pit stop, grabbed a couple of bananas and headed on up the trail. There were lots of people walking today. I stopped and fed a couple of horses. George had been carrying an apple for three plus days, and it was ready to be purged. At first the horses weren’t sure but once I broke it open, they smelled it and came running. Well not running but nudged closer. And they gobbled it up. Problem solved. Horses were fed and George’s pack is lighter!

As we followed the Pilgrims that were ahead, I noticed a fork in the road. Me and another Pilgrim were scratching our heads being the others were going a route that wasn’t even a trail, but an unknown dirt road. I looked at him and my app and stated the obvious! We are not even on the trail! He agreed and we hoofed it up a dirt path and met back up with The Way. George wasn’t having it because it was straight up a hill and he was liking the flatter non-descriptive way, but followed me anyways. Before long, we were back on the route, and on the properly marked trail with yellow arrows. As it should be.

We crested the hill, looked down over the valley and saw the town below. This is definitely the right way. And the other unnamed Pilgrim agreed. The terrain was rolling ups and downs, but nothing too unreasonable.

As we crested another hill, there was this patch of land that had all the trimmings and fixings for a beautiful stop. There were hammocks, lounge chairs, round table with 8 chairs and lots of food! Fruits, nuts and a squeezer to make your own OJ. Hard boiled eggs, cheese and crackers. Who does this? Sure enough the owner operator who looked like a kid, well almost everyone looks like a kid to me, came out with another dozen hard boiled eggs. I stopped and thanked Frederico for this unexpected spread. What a wonderful gesture and kind thing to do for tired and weary travelers.

We sat with many of our Pilgrim friends and took a much needed break. Well honestly it wasn’t like we had walked for hours on end, but any break is always welcomed. We enjoyed the stop and loved the fruit! After a bit, we packed up, pushed up our umbrellas and marched on.

The trail was stunning today. There was an interesting spot we passed that could’ve been a mint Sedona. It had red rocks that could’ve been busted out by a meteor or who knows what? It had a sink hole that was filled with water from a recent rain shower.

As we approached the top of the hill, we saw the town of San Justo de la Veda. There was a beautiful cross on top of the hill. Everyone stopped to admire it. George was right behind me and we also had to stop and just ponder the significance of this moment. We have walked over 300 miles and have been protected from any debilitating injuries. George has recovered from his flu and stomach bugs and seems to be trekking like a champ. It is only because of the absolute protection we have had on this journey. And that can only come from God above! I am so grateful for all that He has allowed us to do together. What a wonderful gift!

Our walk off the mountaintop which honestly was a bump on the trail, was quite gentle. At the bottom there was a fountain, but not any normal water spout. Someone had sculpted a Pilgrim with a Boda-Bag that was flowing water into his mouth. It was pretty ingenious and you had to stop and laugh at this. What a great sense of humor these Spaniards have!

Less than six hours, we arrived in Astorga. It reminds me of a European City with a castle on the hill, a moat around it and a classic Gothic-Style Church. We headed right up to our home for the night. We met Wendy who spoke Spanish. Thank goodness I have my translator with me. She was trying her best to convey what she needed and I was picking up on half of it. By the time she was done and exhausted, she spoke to George and said, you understand what I’m saying very well. You should teach your wife Spanish! I should’ve paid better attention in my Spanish Class in High School. Oh well, at least I’m covered because I have George!

We unpacked, showered and hit the town. First things first, I want to check out the Cathedral. We headed over and I ran into Caroline, my Bunk Mate from Day One. It’s her birthday today and she had ice cream and soda, ready to party it up with Maria. We exchanged info and sent her on her way. I love the fact that we always run into each other on this journey. Happy Birthday Caroline.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria de Astorga was not a disappointment. The edifice begun in 1471, within the same walls of the Romanesque predecessors from the 11th-13th centuries. The construction lasted through the 18th century, which added to its original Gothic appearance some Neo-Classicist cloister (18th century), the Baroque towers, capitals and the façade, along with the Renaissance portico. With a rectangular layout, the apsidal chapels, were very clear and bright. It has an architectural closeness to German Gothic. Each Cathedral I have visited varies. They all, in their own right, are different and uniquely constructed, adding to my incredible appreciation of the architects of each century.

Being we haven’t had much to eat today, it was time to hunt for some fine dining. Steak and Salad with Red Wine. Let’s hope we can fine a place we can have it all! If this is our biggest challenge of the day, we have little to be concerned with. I surely don’t miss the really world where things are getting a bit intense these days. With that, I’ll be signing off and looking for some food.

Each day that we are walking in the footsteps of St. James, and the thousands of Pilgrims that went before us, I am in awe of how great our Lord is. It is difficult to comprehend the love that Jesus Christ has for each and every one of us. I just need to be more boastful and loud about praising His glorious name! Thank you Lord for creating this world, for loving me with your entire being and showing me such undeserving kindness. I am blessed and eternally grateful for you!

Earliest up and out. We actually packed last night and headed out the door at 6am. Two reasons, it was going to be HOT and we had a lot of miles to cover. Longest day and I can guarantee you, we won’t be doing that again!

The streets were pretty quiet as we left. The only people we saw were the Street Cleaners and the Peregrinos. George commented that he’s seen more street cleaners in the past ten years, here in Spain, than ever in Sacramento. They take cleaning their streets serious around here.

It was a long walk out of town. We passed a Museum, which at first I thought was the University. I do believe this is the first big city that we did not walk pass the higher education institution.

Once out of town, there was a Quick-Stop. This guy had somehow fashioned a Not-So-Scenic Roadside that almost every pilgrim stopped at. We had not consumed our money Joe, so George partook in the worse coffee of the trail, Freeze-Dried Sanka! No, thank you. I went all in with the fresh squeezed OJ. I’m not much of an OJ drinker at home, but the oranges here are a cross between lemon and orange. Not too sweet and tastes great! I also obtained my final stamp of my Pilgrim Passport and lucky for me, he had Pilgrim Passports for donation based fee! I obliged and now have number 2 Passport to fill in with stamps. George has a double sided passport, so he’s good for the entire trip. Smart man I married!

We carried on in search of real coffee, espresso and Cafe con Leche. Being the day was going to be long, I needed something to fuel this walk. There were a handful of Pilgrims on trail including Jeff and Sharon who I met in Orisson’s. Day One from Australia. One of the most beautiful parts of this trail is the relationships you make along the way. Jeff and I shared much of our favorite hiking trails. He has passed George and I umpteen times in his van, as he has been shuttling his family to and from. Sharon and Jeff walked the Camino years before and are sharing this with their friends and family now.

Thank goodness. As we arrived to La Virgin del Camino, there was real honest to goodness Cafe. We stopped and I finally got my Espresso for the day, and George had a real cup of coffee. Paul and Sharon were there and we shared coffee together. Perfect timing and George had a chance to meet them too.

Today it was a super flat road walk. We paralleled a very high speed roadway all day. It was not scenic and super loud. We had the option to take a scenic route but being we already committed to 20 miles, me or George honestly weren’t too excited about adding more scenic miles! So road noise was our best option.

After a good 10-12 miles, I was out of water and found a gas station. That’ll work in a pinch. I stopped, waltzed in and found water and potato chips. That’ll compliment my apricots. So Gas Station food it is. We ate and were back, walking down the trail, when I saw Mark.

Mark is one of the first people I met on the trail. He is traveling with his Brother-in-Law Jay. Super good people. We ran into Jay before Leon and I asked where Mark was? Jay said he took a taxi and went to Urgent Care as his ankle was sprain or ??? We saw Mark at Leon Cathedral, just spending time with God. He had been talking with the Lord trying to make sense of all this?!? He had wanted to walk the Camino with his wife years ago but she was diagnosed with Lou Gehrig Disease. He took care of her for years before she passed. Now he’s walking this in her memory. Such a solid Man of God. George has enjoyed his conversations with Mark. He was so encouraging when George was sick with the flu. We walked with him for a good mile or two. Mark pulled off to take a must needed break to rest his ankle, and we continued on.

After close to 15 miles, I was ready for something more than potato chips and apricots. We stopped at an Albergue in San Martin. I ordered my go-to Mista Salad with Tuna and George decided on Lasagna. It came out, all looked well till he tried a bite. This is not Lasagna from the Old Country. It’s so easy to make this. How can they mess up something so good? I’m thinking there are a few things that are Spanish, and I have to say, lasagna is not one of them. Maybe stick with a Burger and Fries!

We had only another 5-6 miles to go and dinner is coming. We headed out and walked our hearts out. It is hot in Spain and this is only the end of May. I would never never ever walk this trail in summer. Blonde hair and blue eyes doesn’t fair well in intense heat, umbrella or not. I was lagging behind, and if a taxi came by or a Spaniard asked if I needed a ride, I think I would’ve jumped onboard! But no such luck and we continued onward.

Before I knew it, we were approaching our final stop for the day. We passed a field with very happy cows grazing, a huge silo and then a church steeple. As we crossed the old medieval bridge, I knew we arrived. We looked down upon a grassy field, and I told George, I think they are preparing for a Jousting Contest!

Ends up that there is the legend of Don Suero and his duel which attracts lovers of the Middle Ages to this bridge. It is a 13th-century bridge which served and still serves as part of the Pilgrim’s Road to Santiago de Compostela. The legend says that on this bridge, a knight from Leon, confronted some foreigners who wanted to cross it. In a duel so that he could undo a pledge of slavery to his beloved Lady Leonor, he would fast every Thursday and wear a heavy iron ring around his neck. He must have broken 300 lances and for this reason, the bridge is known as Passo Honroso (Honourable Crossing).

I knew there was something special about this bridge! Love is always the answer. As we walked across, I noticed a beautiful buildings at the end of it. Sure enough that is our Hostel for the night. We arrived red-faced and tired, checked in and headed up to our room. George was ready for a drink so we changed and headed back down to the bar. We ordered drinks and sat on the deck.

Being that this weekend is the big festival, the girls arrived in their Renaissance costumes and started rehearsing. Oh, this was so unexpected! We listened to the flute and harp playing while watching the gals dance below. Talking with the owner of the Hostel, he said this weekend they will have close to 20,000 people. Oh my goodness. A town of a population of 987 are going to host 20 times their population! Good thing we are moving on! But what a party it will be.

Such a hard day, yet never heard a peep out of my hiking partner. Is he getting stronger? Yes. Is he embracing pain, suffering and agony, heck yeah! Is it hard and he’s just not admitting to it? By all means, yet I believe that the Lord is doing immeasurable repair. When we least expect change, He is changing. When we surrender to His goodness, that is when we are transformed. George is going through a transformation that only the Lord can do. And I am reaping the benefits! What an incredible gift that is.

Another beautiful day in paradise! The sun is shining, the birds are chirping and breakfast is waiting. Now that’s a perfect morning. Walking the Camino is nothing like backpacking. Everything that I wanted or desired was up to me. Want breakfast, heat some water and make soup. Like a cup of coffee, heat water and pretend that your Instant Coffee tastes remotely like a double shot of espresso! But I have to admit, the birds always chirped by 430AM. No questions asked. They have their pros and cons but right now, this Camino is winning my heart!

Today really and truly is a pain free, relaxing day with only eight miles, and little to no hills to climb. Okay maybe one itsy bitsy baby hill. It was non-negotiable as I am NOT God, and hence cannot move mountains!Sorry George.

Leaving Puente del Villarente was almost like walking through a real honest-to-goodness town. It had all the amenities as any city in The States. Furniture Shops, Car Repair Stations, Cafe and Restaurants, and just about anything a local would need. We are definitely getting closer to the Big City of Leon.

We walked through a field that had tonight’s dinner, big fat cows. I’ll be having fish actually, but I’m sure George would eat a steak, if he has an option. The locals have been talking up the Bocahlo, so that’s what I’m looking for. Juicy Steak for George, or maybe just a salad but I’ll have a piece of Cod please.

We walked through a couple of small villages. Arcajuega and Valdelafuente had nothing open. Maybe Tuesday’s is their day off. We found a Cafe just outside of Leon and stopped for Espresso and Fruit. Many others had the same idea. We recognized Peregrinos and all shared our excitement for a much needed rest day. Leon, here we come.

As we were leaving town, I noticed a church, with you guessed it, a stork nest atop it. These birds were very active and George and I hooked a beeline to inspect them closer. A Gal from Korea, Ann informed us we missed our turn. I pointed to the bird nest and she asked, oh the very famous bird of Spain? Yes, it’s a very famous and special Big Bird of Spain. She followed and started videotaping. I cannot believe that she hasn’t seen them before as they are everywhere but maybe she hasn’t noticed? We hung out taking pictures and videos. They are quite magnificent creatures. I just can’t get enough of them.

Back on track, Leon was our next and final destination for the day. Once atop the crest of our one and only hill of the day, the City of Leon was in the foreground. It is huge! Truly a city in its own right. It is the Capitol of the Providence of Leon, settled in 29 BC and has a population of close to 200,000 people. Did you read that? 29 BC! I’m talking over 2000 years old. From miles away, the most prominent feature is…the Cathedral! It is a masterpiece of Spanish Classic Gothic Architecture and was built during the 13th and 14th century. Talk about historic value.

As we headed into Leon, we were inundated with people, motor vehicles, oh no, and industry. Since leaving Paris, this is the biggest city we have seen! As we neared the Rio Turio, there was a Pilgrim Census Station. I saw a couple of Pilgrims talking with the Volunteers who were taking their job, quite seriously. George walked over and was listening as a few Pilgrims continued past. Oh my goodness, the one volunteer headed over to escort the Pilgrims to his information station. The big question of the day was “where are you from?” By the time we arrived, which was 11AM, there were nine pilgrims from United States. I didn’t think to ask where everyone else was from, but my best guess would be Spain, Korea and Australia, are the top of the list. We received the handy dandy map of Leon and were on our way.

We meandered on towards the Cathedral. Lucky thing, I reserved each and every one of our stays, months ago. And we are spending the next two nights looking at the Cathedral! My Google Map programmed and set so I could mindlessly walk through the Old City. George and I have been enamored by the Red Poppies, which we just found out are called Anapoly. We stopped at a Flower Shop and talked with the owner, who told us we cannot purchase poppy seeds from Spain. They are wild flowers and not for sale. Our only option is to confiscate the seeds, wrap them in paper and hope they pass through customs. Hmm, sounds like she has experience in this department. Thanks Mrs. Smuggler. I now know what to do.

Before we knew it, we were walking right, front and center, to the Cathedral. Another absolute work of art! This is larger than life, more beautiful than the most magnificent piece of art I’ve ever laid eyes on. How does one invision such an incredible piece of architecture!

As I turned down the narrow street, this is what I saw. The beauty was still hidden, only a glimpse of what she was. Like a viel over the bride before she is revealed to her husband. It reminded me of The Church that the Lord speaks of. The hidden place that we seek out, the love that only He can subside, the longing and lusting for something that only can be fulfilled by God Almighty. And then she is revealed in all her glory!

What a beautiful picture and testimony to the People of Leon. They built this Cathedral as a sacrament to their love for our Jesus. Over 100 years of building, they did not forget what it was that inspired them to start and more importantly, finish this incredible work of art. The stained glass windows surpass more than 1800 meters. No other church has such an exorbitant amount of colored glass in the world.

We checked into our Hostel. Now let me tell you, Hostels have come a long ways. It’s not the flop houses of the AT, sorry my AT Hostel Owners, but I’m not talking about your places. This is a glorified Suite that overlooks the Cathedral and the streets below. It is older than I, yet is completely redone. Stucco, brick and rock walls with modern fixtures and updated baths. I cannot believe that you can stay in a place like this for $70 a night. Maybe because I booked it three months ago or because they are just nice to Pilgrims, and know we are all on a tight budget?!?! But whatever it may be, this is the steal of the Camino!

All I can say is God is good! And we are truly blessed. day after day. We put in the miles and when we arrive, this is what we get! Yes, I’m thinking when I go back to my one-person tent, however nice it is, will be a major wake-up call! I am so spoiled walking this walk. No wonder Pilgrims come back year after year. Geese, this is too dang good.

A special “Thank you to Dad and Mom.” He blessed us with an early inheritance which has allowed us to enjoy such a place as this!

After taking a shower and cleaning up, George and I checked out the scene. This place is bustling with locals and tourists, Peregrinos and wanderers. We saw some faces we recognized and others that walked straight out of a magazine. Since Paris, these are the best dressed, put together, gorgeous people of Spain. I feel a bit underdressed in my Blue Town Dress, Sandals and Scarf. But that’s as good as it gets. I’ve been craving Bocalho and found a great restaurant close to our flat. We had dinner and dessert with a little vino and cappuccino. It was an incredible feast for one. George is still recovering and pretty much watched as I indulged in my marvelous meal.

It’s hard to put into words the absolute joy I have. My sister said I look like I found my happy place. I think she is “Spot On!” There is something about Spain. I can’t put my finger on it quite yet, but there is some magic about this country. Once I figure out what it is, or better yet when the sweet Lord has explained what He is doing in my heart, I will be sure to share that with you. Right now I am still riding the wave and enjoying every second, every minute, every hour and every day. I guess that’s what it means when you live in the moment!

Good morning Spain. My hubby is feeling better and we are heading out as Team Baraga. After packing, we went down to our Truckers Diner and had a simple breakfast. George isn’t ready to push Chicken Fried Steak or Eggs and Bacon, not that they have that?? But it is a Truckers Diner and they should. I get my typical Espresso, Croissant and a very crunchy green apple, yum. George settles for Cafe con Leche and his Chocolate Croissant. We settled our Bill, drop off our Hotel Key Card and head to the north to hook up with our trail.

Walking through town this morning, we look at each and decide the Trucker Diner and Hotel was a good choice. There’s not much here but a church, a handful of Pilgrims and a local or two. And the big stork nests!

The cobblestone street exits town and we are on our flat trail that extends for miles. No complaints here. George can use an easy 15 miles, if there is such a thing. There’s quite a few Pilgrims ahead of us and before long a few more pass us. All good, we have all day to make it to Villarente. This stretch of the trail has two options, road base (asphalt) or dirt trail. We choose the roadway until traffic starts flowing.

Our eyes are set on cruising to the next town, which will be our halfway mark for the day. Religios is a quaint town with little more than a small convenient store and a couple of Bar-Restaurant-Cafes. They serve all three needs! We stop, drop our packs and I head in. George isn’t too hungry so I order for both of us and eat it all. When I walk in, the Owner Operator is quite impressed with my color choice. Blue Shirt, Blue Earrings and Blue Shell Necklace, Blue Polish on my fingernails and just a sea of blue on me. She turns and hands me her Bar Ribbon, which is blue. This is meant for you. I take it with pride and tie it on my pack.

I eat everything and George helps me with the banana. This may be the first hike that I’ve engaged in where I come back weighing more than when I left! I can’t help myself, I am hungry all the time and the food is too good to pass up. I feel like I’m eating for two, both me and George! He needs to start picking up his fair share.

After pounding down toast with all sorts of Vegetables, a slice of Tortilla, which is closer to a quiche, I’m ready to tackle round two. We head out of town and I stop to check out a monument. It’s all in Spanish so I’m not grasping the significance of it all. George checks it out and translates.

The Day of the Holy Innocents on December 28, 1947 at 8:30am, with thick fog, a meterorite fell, which sank about 35 centimeters (cm). It was approximately 23 cm. long, 10 cm wide and 10 cm high. It weighed more than 17 kg (close to 40 pounds) and broke into 3 pieces on impact, causing a great scare to the neighborhood. You think?? It is currently on display at the National Museum of Sciences. Of all the places to fall? It falls smack dab in the middle of this tiny little town of Religios. No one was hurt but what a fright that must have been.

We leave quickly looking for the sky to start falling! The trail continues very flat for a long, long time. There are fields that are loaded with Cotton which is, in fact, falling from the sky. I noticed the last few days of walking, that there is this white fuzz everywhere. No wonder my eyes are itching, and George is all stuffed up. I’m thinking Cottonwood Trees? It’s so thick that it looks like snow on the ground. One of the Bikers called it Chapo.

Once through the fluff we landed in Mansilla de las Mulas. This town is known as the Gateway for Pilgrims. The south-east door of the wall, named DOOR OF SAINT JAMES because it is through it that the pilgrims on the “French Way” enter the town. In the twelfth century, Mansilla was the first stop in the Kingdom of León. Only the side walls remain, and the arch between them has disappeared. This door was built using the same material as the wall, in the shape of a passageway towards the outside.

This town is so rich in history. The town square has a beautiful sculpture depicting three Pilgrims sitting at the foot of a cross. This was created in 1998 by Mr. Ángel Muñiz Alique, Sculpture from Leon. It is a tribute to the pilgrims who walk the Camino de Santiago, which is of great importance to this town. Carved in stone, it represents three pilgrims on the Jacobean route resting, along with Christ. The location is in front of the Puerta Castillo, in an area considered the junction between the Roman Road and the French Camino de Santiago. Another reason I love Spain. They cherish their steep religion, culture and tradition.

With only a few miles to go, we head through the Door of St. James and continue west. Once again the road stays flat, lined with trees to provide enough shade. We cross a few creeks and a small river before making it to Puente del Villarente. It seems like this town is a bit larger than most, separated by Rio Porma. We walked through the new part of town, crossed the bridge and ended up in the Old Town. I really like the ancient towns. They have so much charm and history. We arrived at Albergue San Pelayo.

As soon as I walk in, I see a name plate, Kelly. This is a great start. The gal comes out and it’s like we know each other. You like Blue! Oh do I. That’s a great thing. She walks us to our room and says its quite the coincidence. Nope, it’s exactly what God had planned. Thank you.

George immediately checks out the backyard. Ends up that it used to be stables for cattle and they reconfigured it into an incredible outdoor patio. Beer was flowing, people were laughing and the misters were on! This is our kind of place. We are home!

What a great day. The sun was shining, but not too bright. The trail was flat, with only a bump or two. Everyone likes blue, which is a big plus and my George is feeling like his old self. I couldn’t be happier. We sat around the table tonight having dinner with a couple from Canada, a gal from Pennsylvania and three men from Korea. We ended up closing the place down and planning to meet up for breakfast in the morning. Everyone plans to walk to Leon tomorrow and take a day off or two. The couple from Canada, Carlo and Peggy, plan to arrive in Santiago the same day as George and I. Hopefully there’s enough room for all of us! It’ll be quite the party! As I reflect on the day, I’m so grateful that I am able to share this experience with so many others. What a blessing to have Gods people from all over the world share bread. After all the trials and tribulations, George has broken through and sees the new day, bright with endless possibilities. It just doesn’t get any better.

Such nice people at our Hotel. I got up this morning, dressed and out before 7am. George is taking another rest day so I’m flying solo. I headed downstairs to breakfast. I thought they started serving at 7am but it must be 730am. I was able to get my coffee and yogurt and patiently waited for all the other items to be prepared. They have been so accommodating to George and I, making a special fruit platter yesterday. And now, making me my espresso rather than drip coffee. I ate some fruit, a croissant, and was efficiently fueled for my day.

Within the first five minutes, I met Pilgrim Cari from Florida. She was headed to the same town as I am so we walked together most of the morning. She’s solo and enjoying her time. I believe we will be ending the same day. There’s a lot of Pilgrims finishing mid-June. We have much in common, about the same age and she lost her Mom recently too. We shared our experiences of grieving and our gratefulness that we were with our Mom’s when they passed. It is good to have someone to share this with as my Mom has been so heavy on my heart during this journey.

One of the thoughts that keep replaying in my mind is how much I have. How fortunate I am to have a husband who is sharing this experience with me. How fortunate I am to have my health; my knees and back that are strong enough to carry a pack everyday without much worry. The knowledge that my beautiful daughter is watching our dog and keeping all things in order, taking care of the garden and making sure the house doesn’t burn down. There’s truly so much that I have and really nothing I lack for. As I look at the others on the trail, I never know what troubles they may have or not. Yet we are all here sharing this pathway in hopes of finding some sense of peace, some semblance of solitude and purpose for our life. Everyone I’ve asked about their thoughts have conveyed that they feel a sort of calmness as they accept their placement on this trail. The things that used to bother them seem to disappear. After walking hundreds of miles, you learn to let go of the frustrations, the little things that irritate you and embrace the love that is right in front of your eyes. Each step and every mile continues to bring us closer to the joy that God desires for our lives.

Cari and I make it to our first cafe of the day. I order Hot Tea and she gets Diet Coke. We check out our progress and congratulate ourselves for the miles we have already covered. This is a great reason to walk and talk with another. The miles just chip away. Cari was waiting for her friend Marsha to arrive and I nodded her farewell.

The rest of my day was quite flat. In fact I don’t think there was much more than a speed bump along today’s route. The scenery has been much of the same with wheat and wild grasses, and many more dirt fields as they start harvesting. The poppies are beginning to fade and there’s much more Buttercup and some new looking flowery weeds on the scene.

I received a text from George. He was able to get a Taxi to our future home for the night. He was already checked in and situated by the time I was heading into town.

It was an easy walk from the Green Dotted Trail on the Camino, to our room. Only 150 meters from the trail. In fact, when I arrived, I opened the window and was looking out on the Pilgrims walking the Camino. It’s good to be done for the day. Easy peasy 15 miler! Who says that? Just crazy ole me.

Big plans are not always God’s will. Last night as we were talking about our day, I had considered waking up at 5:30, and hitting the Cafe at 6am. Then we could get in our miles before the heat and make for a better day. George was not sold on the idea.

After close to three weeks of walking, one bout of the flu, five days of antibiotics and a few cases of a mysterious intestinal issue, George is having a relapse of some unknown creepy crud. He was up all night, while I slept like a baby. How do I do that? Probably a combination of exhaustion and plenty of vino.

When the alarm clock went off, George informed me that he was not going to work today! No energy, no motivation, no way! Well then, Plan B. Taxi to next town of Sahugun. We have covered nearly 75 miles in four days and maybe I need to give my partner a Mercy Card! So taxi it is.

I turned off the alarm and slept till 7am. We packed up everything ever so slowly and made our way to the Cafe. All George wanted was Orange Juice. He must be sick because this man drinks coffee every morning of his life! I had enough coffee for both of us. George summoned a taxi and we were on our way to the half way point of the Frances. Not the way I had planned but still, in fact, headed west.

Hotel Puerta of Sahugan is a huge place on the outskirts of town. The Big Hotel was vacant, not a soul around. Our Taxi Driver stayed and made sure we were taken care of. He rang the bell, then called, and after a few minutes, we had help at the Front Desk. Any chance we can checkin early? She called the maid and asked if our room was clean? No, give me 30 minutes and by 10am, we were situated in a nice room. Never ever in the States would they allow that early of a checkin or attempt to stop all progress and clean your room first. I love Spain and their unending hospitality!

Being in town, I decided to wander the streets and obtain our Halfway Compostela at the Monastery. It was on “The Camino” so I was able to get some miles logged. George came along even after my urging him to stay in the room. He managed to walk the .8 miles and then realized that he needed to retreat back to our cozy bed. Good choice.

I wandered into the Monastery and learned much about Bernardino de Rivera, which was changed to Bernardino de Sahagun, after his home town. He was born around 1499, but no one seems to know the exact date. He moved to Salamanca, the center of Spain where he learned Latin, History, Philosophy and Theology. Around the middle of the decade, he decided to enter the Franciscan Order where he was ordained as a priest in 1527.

Two years later, in 1529 and at the age of 29 years old, he along with other friars left for America, to the recently conquered New Spain (Mexico) on an evangelizing mission; They were led by Fray Antonio de Ciudad Rodrigo, in Mexico, where Fray Bernardino would die many years later, in his nineties. This incredible Monastery is still standing and much recognition was given to this Evangelist. Such a tribute!

After obtaining our Mid-Way Compostela, I made it to downtown Sahagun, in the midst of some Festival. The streets were lined with vendors and all the locals were shopping, sitting with their drink of choice, hanging out with friends and family, and doing what they do. It was just where I needed to be. Not my plan, but once again, God’s plan.

I saw a few of my Pilgrim Friends passing by and sat with the locals. The streets were bustling with activity and everyone was in a jovial mood. I found a vendor selling nail polish and figured that’s light enough to carry to Santiago. I sat down, ordered a beer and painted my nails, blue of course!

I headed back to the Hotel and commandeered some Orange Juice and fruit from the Kitchen. I took it up to Sleeping Beauty and he barely budged. Hmm, maybe he really is sick?!?! Poor guy has spent half as much time on the trail as off the trail, with all his ailments! I’m thinking another day off for my partner as I continue solo.

As George was laying in bed, he was wondering what God was trying to teach him? Gosh, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had some bat crazy injury on the trail that I didn’t wonder the same thing. It is between us and our Lord and Savior to work things out. I can tell you this, George has given it his all, fighting through all sorts of adversities, yet he keeps plugging along. Maybe the Lord just wants him to sit, and acknowledge all that he has done rather than what he hasn’t?

I have always been the Polly Anna of this marriage, focusing on the good and rarely the bad. Maybe just maybe, He wants us to focus our eyes on His goodness. And lean on His strength. Then we can see the real beauty that He has in store for us. Just my two cents, whatever it may be worth. Right now, I think rest and sleep is in order so that is the plan. I’ll let you know how that goes.

Oops, this was suppose to be an easy day! We were up at our typical 6am but didn’t find our way till 730am. I had estimated some 15 plus miles, not 19.5. No wonder George is beat tired! To our saving grace, today was flat as a pancake.

After we drank our Spanish Coffee, our day started. There was a bit of a search for the trail, but after circling the town, I saw the yellow arrow and off we went. Sheena was having the same dilemma but we all converged and started following the canal.

It continued for endless long flat miles. Easy walking and we had a great time talking with Sheena. She’s a nurse from Seattle and walking solo for the moment. She started with her brother but he was much faster and after a few injuries, she decided to take a few rest days. He continued on, and Sheena started back up after she recovered.

Ends up that she enjoys hiking solo, being in her own thoughts and contemplating her next steps. Her and her husband are both nurses and since COVID, there are many options available for their future. We stopped at the first town, Fromista, had another coffee and tortilla, and nodded farewell.

As we left town number one, we came across a rolled over Big Rig and Dump Trailer. He may have taken the roundabout a bit too fast, dumped his load, clogging the roadway. That was a costly mistake. They had three heavy duty tow trucks, attempting to upright the trailer. Gosh, memories came flashing back to the days of work. Now my only work is walking from town to town!

Next stop was town number two, Pablocion del Campos. It really wasn’t much of a town, but with the sun shining and the day warming up, we stopped for a soda and the most important, bathroom stop. We kept seeing my friend Carolina from Day One at Orisson’s. She’s been laying low with a bum knee but back walking again. Yeah Carolina.

As we left, there were two distinct trails, both going towards Santiago. After consorting with my Wise Pilgrims App, I made the command decision to take the trail to the right. It ended up adding on those additional 3-4 miles by way of wandering through the farmlands. Almost all the other pilgrims took the same route however, as the other path followed the road with heavy traffic. That’s never fun.

We talked with quite a few pilgrims and even a Bicyclist. She was the first biker who I actually saw stop and enjoy the scenery. I commented to her that it was nice to see her enjoying the sights. She’s from Colorado and riding about 40 kilometers a day which is 30 plus miles. She just exchanged her road bike for an E-bike. It was too hard to get up the mountains with all the extra gear on pedal power alone. Now she has options and is having a much better experience. E-bikes are the way to go here as the trail is quite challenging for bicyclists.

Villamentaro de Campos was lunch stop. We both decided on a Mista Salad which has tuna, egg, tomatoes, corn and spring salad mixture. It was just what our bodies required, along with some hops and barley.

After lunch is when we realized the miles were not adding up. What do you mean we still have 9 miles to go? We followed another muddy creek and fields of grain. For the first time, we actually saw farmers plowing the fields, cutting the crops and appeared to be harvesting some of the grasses. As I was watching one of the farmers on his big tractor, I noticed that he had a cattle dog, chasing him back and forth. At closer inspection, it looked like our dog Zoey. I called “Zoey” but she didn’t respond. Maybe it was just another dog that looked like her. But boy oh boy, she had lots of energy!

We covered many miles and saw one last town, Villalcazar de Sirga. The place was small but had a sign for Smoothies. That sounds great. George and I both partook and cooled our body core temp down a few notches. There were a few Pilgrims enjoying their smoothies too. As we left our final rest stop, sure enough we saw a couple more storks and their grand nests atop the highest point. I’m gonna guess that these nests are the size of a 55 Gallon Drum. They are big enough to house a Pterodactyl!

We hooked back on to the path that followed the road. Now I’m thankful that we took the other route. I definitely would not have enjoyed this walk. We walked quickly into town, some four miles more to go. Poor George. His bag wasn’t packed well this morning and his back was screaming. Lesson learned. Pack the heavy stuff lower. He had his clothes riding high and it was “no bueno!”

Once we arrived, it was a self check-in. Kind of like ringing up your own groceries and bagging them. At the end of a hot day, the last thing I want to do is check myself in. God’s timing is always perfect timing and this beautiful woman arrived and asked if she could help? Please, I’m about at my Witt’s end and really don’t get all the details that this machine requires. She plugs in all the vital information and before I know it, two key cards are spit out of the vending machine. Then she opens the door and tells me what room we are staying in. Three floors up, Room 5. We are on our way. Thank you my sweet angel!

As we are climbing the stairs, I look outside and there’s a pool. Oh my, that is an incredible surprise. All I can do is get to our room, strip down, and throw on my tank top over my underwear and very stylish bra that acts as a bathing suit, in a pinch. And then I head to the swimming hole. At this point, it can be a cold plunge but I’m still going in!

And it is. The temp says 68 but I’m thinking 50. One foot at a time and this girl is in the pool, I’m the only one, but that’s okay. After awhile, George gets brave and puts his feet in the water. Definitely not going for a dip.

After lounging around, we head out for dinner and find a fabulous restaurant recommended by the locals. All the Pilgrims are there with paper tickets in hand. Hmm, we don’t have tickets or reservations but they still allow us in at 7pm. Yeah, dinner at a high end fancy pants place before 9pm! That’s a big deal. The food was outstanding and we waddled home, climbed the stairs and tucked ourselves into bed.

Today was not the short day I was hoping for and definitely not the day George had envisioned! But we still made it, with a few new blisters on George’s feet and me, a bit tired, pooped out and ready to plop into bed. The lucky part is we have a lovely bed to flop into. That’s much more than most people. Another incredible day on the Camino, doing it His way!

Waking up in Spain is quite nice. The sun was shining today with glorious blue skies. In fact when we left our lovely Albergue, we had an Alpenglow on the church steeple. It was the first time I’ve seen the sun shine like that on something rather than a high mountain top.

This mornings walk was nice and flat! As we walked out of town, our Korean friends were having their morning briefing. I jumped in their circle listening intently, and not understanding a word. They all started pointing at me, laughing and before long, we were in a group picture with George-son too. They are hearing to Santiago also and ends up, their itinerary matches ours. We will all be in Santiago on the same day. What a celebration that will be!

Out of town, the Camino headed into this beautiful valley with more wild flowers, grain and oats or something that they grow to feed cattle. It lines the trail forever! A few miles down we ran into the impressive Ruins of San Anton, built in the 14th century.

It sheltered poor people, pilgrims and sick people with the illness of the San Anton’s fire until the end of the 18th century. In its Arch you can appreciate two cavities opposite the door. This is the place where they deposit bread and wine for pilgrims. Since the summer of 2002 it has been a private shelter for pilgrims. Now it is a Albergue that has an outdoor amphitheater that is frequented by grand singers and musicians who entertain under the starry nights.

After leaving the ruins, our path leveled out and directed us through the fields again. In the distance was the town of Castrojeriz, which I have deemed my favorite place in Spain to date. Just the pathway alone to the town receives high billing. But what truly is the crowing jewel is the Castle.

Castrojeriz runs down from the top of the mountain and is close to 2,000 years old. The castle sits upon a mountain, which gives the area the common name of Castro. Its first construction dates from the 9th century. There are three distinct parts of it: the first 9th century tower above roman basement, the 11th century tower and the keep and advanced defenses from the 14th. The adaptation for the artillery was done in the 16th century.

As we walked closer, it reminded me of Jerusalem, sitting on top of a hill overlooking the city. Or King David’s palace, or maybe Masada, on top of a mountain protecting the people from intruders and invaders. Whatever it may be, it must have been quite the fortress in its day!

Let’s be real! I am not a Queen or I’d be carried to Santiago! And that’s not happening so George and I waltzed out of town. The next big bit of business was our 12% grade climb up 1050 meters. I’m thinking, 3000’ climb? There’s no way I would’ve missed that in the map? I could see the trail from quite a long distance, and anyway you slice it, we had a climb.

Once atop the biggest pass of the day, was an outstanding view of the valley below. We took a short break and met another couple, Sicily and Danny. They were from England making their way to Santiago. Sicily had tweaked her knee and had it wrapped with gauze. George and I helped with a little First Aid. I had a patella wrap that I wasn’t using and thought, this could do the trick. She was super grateful and continued on with a new improved knee wrap.

The rest of the day was fairly straight forward, a crazy downhill and then valleys and plains that paved our way. We made a pit stop at the last Albergue and had a beer and potato chips. There we saw Sicily. She was new and improved and quite happy with her wrap. Tears of joy as she thanked us for the little piece of neoprene. You are so welcome, my little Pilgrim.

Back on the trail and finishing strong, we made it to Boadilla. It is a very tiny village but has hoards of Pilgrims here. As we entered the square, we saw the big church with no less than eight stork nests! Both Momma’s and Daddy’s were attending their baby’s, flying off and bringing back worms and such. I was mesmerized with the size of their nests.

We checked in and made our way to our room. Once I opened the window, I was face to face with two of the Stork Nests. One of the parents had just returned and started dancing and making a loud squawk. The little storks were flapping their wings and terribly excited for their parents return. Pretty sweet stuff we experienced here on the Camino.

Dinner was a Pilgrims Meal with 50 others. It was loud, fun and the food was pretty good. We sat with people from Brazil, Italy, Korea and US. It was a great time and George’s first ever Pilgrims Meal. Quite the day.

We are closing in on our half way point, and walking the Meseta. Some Pilgrims skip this section as it can be long and not their cup of tea. I think I’m speaking for both George and I here. This is a gorgeous place and each corner reveals something new and more interesting. We are definitely stronger than when we started and now comes the challenge. Can we find that inner peace? Can we take ourselves away from the noise, the fear and the worry of the day, and just be. Be in the present, sit with what’s happening right now and thinking, there’s nowhere else I’d rather be. I’m embracing that as we get up every morning and walk another 35,000-40,000 steps a day. So now, I only need to rest in His ways and He will do the rest.

After a day plus of rest, George and I took off solo. M&M are returning home by way of Madrid. Gosh, I’m going to miss them. They really brought great fun and laughter to our Dynamic Duo. Mel & Moody were up, standing on their balcony and waved goodbye, as we walked out of town, early this morning.

Another cool morning but promise of sunshine and no rain. One out of two is not bad. We did not have a drop of rain, but the sun never really materialized. Cloudy, cool and a northern wind showed up. Talking to the locals, this has been unseasonably cold. By now the sun is out and the Pilgrims are warming up. Still I’d rather have cooler weather than warmer or hot days!

Our day was split into 3 – ten kilometer segments. It was the only way I managed to keep my other half alive. The walk out of town was unremarkable except for the University. That’s a given. Once we passed the campus, it was flat open fields of grain. There was a small creek we followed, and a highway. We made it to Tardajos and George had his Coffee and Chocolate Croissant and I ate a Potato Egg Tarta that was pretty dang good.

The next ten kilometers were a surprise. We climbed a little over 1500’ and walked through Rebé de la Calzadas. There was a small unremarkable church and George said we could get our Pilgrim Stamp. But it was much more than that. This sweet Nun was inside giving blessings to all the Pilgrims that came through. She asked our names, laid hands on us and prayed for our safety on this journey to Santiago. It was absolutely precious.

With our blessing upon us, my pack felt lighter and I had a bounce in my step. We had quite a bit of a climb still and there were tons of Pilgrims ahead. The hills were greener than green, the wildflowers lined the pathway and the clouds as menacing as they looked, spared us from any precipitation.

As we crested the plateau, there was a metal cross that shined above the town below. The cross represented protection against all evil and good tidings to the people of Hornillos del Camino and the Pilgrims that journey through this region.

We arrived in this tiny town and looked for a place to eat. About halfway through town, I spotted a Bar-Restaurant which is typical for these parts. When we walked in, AC/DC was playing. This seems like my kind of place. There were five tables and one was open. The waiter/owner/barista/cook sat us down and gave us a menu. This is going to be indescribable.

Starter was Mixta Salad for George and I had Chickpeas with shredded cabbage slaw. It was out of this world. The main dish for George was Beef Stew and I had Eggplant with Mango and Pomegranates. I’m always amazed at what someone can concoct in a tiny 5X5 Kitchen. Michelin Star ⭐️ approved.

Our last 10 kilometers had another slight climb and was quite nice. The only issue was walking 20 miles and my feet were screaming. But the saving grace was the scenery. If you can block out the pain and suffering, you can really appreciate the absolute beauty that surrounds this magnificent trail. The grasses were waving in the wind and the flowers were broadcasted throughout the grain. Looking out over the grain, was like an ocean that never ceased to end. Green and reds that took you to the end of the earth!

Just before 5pm, we walked into town. I reserved this place 3 months ago so when I saw the sign that it had a spa, I was quite surprised. We checked in and I asked the gal, is there really a spa? Yes there is. We offloaded our packs, changed and headed down to our private Oasis.

It was the most unexpected luxurious place I have ever seen on the Camino. Indoor pool with jets, water fountains, recliners with jacuzzi jets and a wet sauna. I think I died and made it to heaven. George was taking it all in and no complaints there. What an incredible ending to a super tough day.

Thank you Lord for your blessings and mercy to these two pilgrims. Each day that I walk the Camino, I honestly never expect anything more than a place to rest my head at the end of the day. Yet, it seems that each daily walk I encounter more than I ever imagined. You continue to give me strength, make me stronger and I yearn to trust your ways. Thank you Jesus for all you prepare ahead of time. And for all the sweet icing on the cake!

It was pretty darn cold last night. So cold that there was ice and hail on the ground when we walked into Orbaneja Riopico, but I’m jumping the gun. Let’s start from the beginning.

As we left town this morning, we saw dozens of Pilgrims. Everyone wanted an early start as Burgos is a culmination of sorts for hundreds of people, including M&M. The town was shut down like a steel drum so we had to walk to get our morning cup of Joe. To Moody and George’s surprise, the only coffee in our humble abode was decaffeinated, and that just isn’t going to motivate my team. So we left and walked to the next town.

We had one climb and it was the first task of the day. Within a half a mile, we started up our rocky path. Mel and I had wondered where all the wildlife was because outside a red squirrel, tons of birds, some lizards and worms, we haven’t really seen anything. But she did point out some deer droppings so maybe if we keep our eyes peeled, we might see one or two. Nope, nada, zilch. We climbed our rocky path, admiring the views of our town below and the terrain we’ve covered. It’s pretty remarkable when you looked back and see the turbines some twenty miles back that we passed yesterday.

As we neared the top of our climb, was a huge wooden 50’ cross that was erected. At its base was a pile of rocks that some had placed as a sacrifice or release of one’s burdens. There were several pilgrims standing at the foot of the cross, praying, reflecting and just worshipping what this cross represents to them. Tears in my eyes, I found a rock and placed it carefully on top of the other thousands of rocks. It made me give thought to the sacrifice Jesus made for me and how grateful I am for his undeserving love. We all spent several minutes in this sacred place, having time to ourselves.

Where the cross had been placed was on top of a Table-like mountain. It was flat like a plateau with low lying scrub and a few trees sprinkled about. If I didn’t know better, I would’ve thought we were on an African Plain or somewhere quite remote. It was eerily out of place in Spain and thankfully it allowed us all to walk easily.

At the edge was the downhill slide to Villalval, our much needed dose of caffeine. In the very distant corner was the city of Burgos, a good 10 miles away. To my surprise, was a huge mining operation to the north. Just below the clouds you can make out Industrialized Spain. In the last 150 plus miles, I had not seen any sign of clear-cutting or factories, but here was a massive mining operation in front of my eyes.

We followed the steep slope down and hooked onto a paved road that was vacant of any cars. It was only 9am so most Spaniards are just waking up. No traffic to dodge, just us Pilgrims clogging up the road. We followed it for a couple of miles and like the Golden Arches, we found a beautiful Cafe. I think every pilgrim I saw in the past ten days was there!

We all stopped our packs and headed in. There was what appeared to be a husband and wife running the place. They had a system down that was extremely efficient.

The Toasted Sandwiches were actually toasted. That might seem obvious but in Spain, they typical are barely cooked, let alone toasted. George and I both had toasted sandwiches, George had a chocolate eclair with his coffee and I had a Quad-Shot of Espresso. That about sent the Barista tilt. So four shots of espresso in four cups? No sir. I’d like four shots in one cup. I guess no one ever thought of that before. His wife laughed and asked if I was planning to run to Santiago today? Just Burgos. But that’s a thought…

We ate and drank and hit the road, fueled up and rearing to go. We had a little over nine miles to go and it was still early. When we arrived to the next town, Mel noticed ice on the ground. It was actually chunks of hailstones from last nights storm. I couldn’t help myself and being Moody was the closest, a snowball fight ensued. Well I guess you can’t call it that, if the recipient doesn’t respond! So it was more like a snowball massacre. He earned the Gold Star today for taking it so well. Especially for a guy who I’ve been told, doesn’t like getting wet. I can definitely see more Navy Seal training in his future.

We crossed a highway and followed the river. This was a big source of contention as there were two highly marked and visible trails to take. But George had read up and said don’t take the trail that goes through the Industrial Area. Well that gave me a 50/50 chance of picking the right path. Luckily I did and we were on our way to Burgos.

Once we entered the town proper, there were tons of retired people walking the trails and paths that paralleled the Camino. It was wonderful seeing all the locals out walking just because they like the fresh air and exercise. We spoke with one woman from Burgos who offered to carry someone’s pack. Before I could speak up, Moody was taking off his pack! Mel wasn’t a bit surprised and we all continued carrying our own burdens.

Before we knew it, we were in Burgos. Our hotel is right next to the Cathedral with our balcony facing the church. If this isn’t the best place ever, I don’t know what it! We have a room that we were able to check into hours ahead of time and we are in the midst of the most important event that ever took place in Burgos, the building of this Cathedral.

So many of the Pilgrims I talked with today are stopping here. They have many reasons why they cannot continue but it was important to them to have the culmination of their walk ending at this sacred and integral spot. I understand why. It is magnificent!

Burgos is bittersweet to George and I. Our friends and fellow pilgrims are headed home from Burgos. I remember only a few months ago talking about this walk and asking if they’d be interested in joining us? We went to their house, talked about the route and our dates of passage. A couple of days later,Moody was back at our house making reservations with me. We had such great memories with M&M and honestly, I wish they were doing the distance with us. Yet, I am certain that this will not be our last walk.

Mel and Moody, you two are.genuine friends who have blessed us for the past ten days. We have treasured memories that will stay with us both for a lifetime. Congratulations on making your first Camino and walking 150 miles! That’s pretty darn close to Navy Seal worthy status. Thank you for your flexibility, for your patience and forgiveness, but mostly your friendship. What a time we all had. Now you can go home, get a massage, kick your feet up and dream about doing nothing for a day or two. No more six o’clock wake-up’s or twenty mile days in the rain! Lucky ducks. Enjoy and think of George and I as we continue west to Santiago. Much love and blessings to you both.