Day 11: May 18, 24 Santo Domingo to Belorado Today: 14.1 miles Total Stats: 145.7m & 234.4 km

I have to say that last night was the best night of sleep I’ve had since Orisson’s. Don’t ask me why, but I’m speculating that it has something to do with climbing mountains or bell towers and sleeping in my own little bed. Whatever contributed to the extra special slumber is still up for grabs. But I’m just happy to have slept like a queen, in her castle.

Our Lounge Area

Breakfast was a full-on meal for high end elites. Eggs were fashioned in the kitchen, fruit, toast, pastries with meats and cheese, hmm, hmm good. George even partook in Kelloggs Cocoa Krispies. Who would’ve thought there would be such a feast for a mere $19. All around, it was quite the spread.

Leaving Santo Domingo

Afterwards, we headed towards the rolling hills of Spain, greener grasses, fields of wheat and cereal, the patchwork quilt of a country. It is so manicured, like some machine must groom it daily, picking and tweezing each extra follicle or blade of grass that may be out of place. It is too hard to put words to this lush, vast landscape. It’s something you must witness to truly appreciate.

Lush Green Landscape of Spain

We had six towns to conquer with numerous hills and valleys to pass through. This morning we saw a Hot Air Balloon floating above our heads. The morning was brisk and it helped us move a bit faster. Our first town was up the hill from Santo Domingo to Granon. It was small but had a cute Mobile Van that was outfitted for Pilgrims.

BarBackAna Van & Drinks

Fruit Juices, Coffee, and Kombucha. Somehow I convinced George to give Kombucha a try. Not his typical go-to drink but thought it would calm his belly and offer some probiotics. And being that they had Mango Flavored, it was an easy sell. We sat and I watched as he took his first drink. He actually liked it! As I was finishing, I reached in my skirt pocket and found, oh no, the super special key from our Convent last night. Oh crap, that’s a big deal and a very costly mistake. No Gold Star for me!

The Town of Granon

I thought, well I’ll take a taxi back to the Hotel, drop it off and head back up to meet my gang of COP’s. I walked over with my head hung low, and told the guy who ran the drink van, Miguel, about my dilemma. He said, “no problem, I’m planning on heading that way in five minutes!” You got to be kidding me? Nope, and that is how the Camino provides. Problem solved and no taxi required.

Super Miguel to the Rescue

There is an old saying that whatever you need, you can always find it. Just ask. Here in Spain, it’s absolutely no different. We all picked up our packs and scurried down the path. What a blessing. The rest of the morning was rolling ups and downs, through quaint little towns with lots of Pilgrims. The Koreans are still around us and I’m really warming up to them. We don’t speak the same language but somehow, someway we communicate. There was a huge sign, some 20-25’ tall of the entire region from Santo Domingo to Santiago. We all got our picture and as the Koreans were taking their picture, they asked me and George to join them. We all jumped in and who knows where that picture will end up. Some poster in Seuol, Korea for tourism to Spain. That’s the beauty of the internet.

Map of the Camino from Santo Domingo to Santiago

We moseyed on down the trail and continued up and over so many beautiful ribbons of roads. This day was endless greens, so many shades that I’ve never seen.

Walking the Camino in May

We talked with a friend of ours, who walked the Camino Frances years ago in August and September. He was not impressed with its beauty. I’m thinking, what happened? When I saw pictures of the same route, it was brown, tan and burnt yellow. Now I understand. It has everything to do with the time of the year. Late Spring, as far as I’m concerned is really the best time to witness the beauty of these hillsides. We have new growth, older growth, spring flowers, and even some sprinkling of snow on the mountaintops. There are clouds with some rain, but not much, just enough to give you contrast in the sky. I may be bias but I’m saying if you want to see Spain in all its glory, you just might plan to visit now.

Unfiltered Untouched Spain

We walked through one last town, Viloria which didn’t have much in Cafes or Take-Away. So we kept going and started another descent, only to climb again. It wasn’t anything to steep, just enough to make you wonder, why do we have the countless ups and downs today? As I crested the hill, I saw the lovely sight of Villamayor de Rio, and our lunch stop. Thank goodness because if I didn’t stop to feed my crew, they may have voted me off the island!

Heading into Villamayor de Rio

I saved a table and waited for the Union Workers to arrive. Mel, Moody and George were ready to take their much earned lunch break. I headed in to scope out the place and kept seeing these plates coming out of the kitchen. No menu but when you see food, no menu is required. I sauntered up to the counter and asked for the Menu of the Dia with Chicken, and two beers please. Then I headed outside and waited. Out came the best plate of food I’ve seen in awhile. George and I devoured every morsel of Chicken, Salad and French Fry on the platter. That hit the spot!

Pilgrims Lined Up to Eat

George headed off first while I covered my pack. The clouds were looming and it seemed that rain was heading our way. We walked super fast, over three miles an hour and caught George as we were entering our final stop for the night.

M&M Nearing Their Goal to Burgos

Belorado seems like a small village and our Albergue is on the wee-end of town. I pulled out Google and she said I was 400 meters from our bed. Bravo. There was the cutest place we passed that had every flag from all nations lining the driveway. I thought, what a grand idea. And kept going.

Albergue & Hotel A Santiago

Then Google did her thing and said, you have arrived. Arrived where? There’s nothing here but a field and a hillside. I recentered and she had me making a drastic u-turn and heading up this long driveway. Oh goodness, here we go again. The Union Workers were getting a bit perturbed with their Supervisor but much to their delight, we arrived at the Albergue with all the flags. Thank goodness. A bit of a convoluted way of getting here but we are home for the night.

M&M Bunkhouse

This will be M&M’s first experience sleeping with other Pilgrims in Bunk Beds. Lucky for Moody, Mel requested the top bunk. No fuss there. George and I scored a private room with three twin beds and a private bath. Privileges for sleeping with the Superintendent. Slight promotion I gave myself, but after this passed week, I’m in need of a proper title. Not just “Boss Lady.”

One of the Many Churches

We are closing in on Burgos, the ending spot for M&M. Two more day and they will have completed their 130 mile section. You really never know someone or a couple until you have walked through fire together. We’ve had some long mileage days, a little bit of rain, some intense heat, meal snafus, hotel accommodations gone array, but yet, M&M keep following us from one town to the next. They have been a great addition to our journey and being like-minded in their faith, it has been a joy having them. In fact, if I play my cards right, there’s a chance they may consider another “Walk.” But for now, we are grateful having them hang out with us for the next couple of days. Thanks so much for sharing this adventure with us, and for you two, loving and doing you!

M&M Walking into the Sunset

Day 9: May 16, ‘24 Logroño to Nájera Today: 17.7 miles Total Stats: 118.4 m & 190.5 km

After a day of rest, it’s only proper to walk our longest distance to date. Close to 18 miles, and honestly after finding our apartment, and taking the extra steps from trail to park to toilet, it’s 18 miles, no question. But my little team of walkers are seasoned and somewhat professional, so they did the not so impossible, climb about 2000’ and walk 18 miles today!

Camino Foursome

We packed up and left at 7am sharp! Very impressive from the get go. As we left Lograno, we meandered through the city streets for a couple of miles, walked through the University Campus, customary for pilgrims and headed towards the hills. It was downright frigid this morning, and actually cool all day. Maybe 50’s with some clouds but no rain to speak of. The ground was wet from the torrential downpour from the night before. Spain is starting to grow on me. Cool days, for now and rain while everyone sleeps. Seems like the perfect place to hang out for a month or so.

Pilgrim Metal Art at Lograno University

We passed a small lake, where the locals were fishing. They said there were bass and carp. I did see a few jump but no bites. As we walked across the bridge, there must’ve been 50-60 Big Mouth Bass with their mouths wide open looking for something to eat. I wanted to yell to the fishermen, hey they’re all over here! There was a swarm or pod or a flock of fish over here guys!

Lots of Fish 🎣 to Catch

Our plan was to get as many miles as possible first thing in the morning. My gang of COP (Caminos Old People) were pushing themselves. Maybe after their Union Approved day off and spa day, yes, massages all around, may have contributed to their much better attitudes. No griping, no whining, just good vibes and happy thoughts. Well, mostly.

Lake of Bass and Carp

As we followed the well-maintained trail, we scared up a flock of pigeons that were laying low in the fields. There had to be some 50-100 birds following each other, dancing along the grasslands, not sure what exactly they were doing. But they seemed to have this choreographed movement, slowly diving to and fro. Until the big bad dog scared them away. Them dogs, they love to chase birds.

Low Lying Pigeons Flying

We made it to our brunch stop around 1030 in the small town of Navarrete. Every pilgrim this side of Lograno had the same idea. Soup was on the menu and that sounded perfect. George followed suit and we sat and waited. M&M had sandwiches and pastries which they received immediately. George and I waited ever so patiently. But when it came, it was well worth it. Vegetable based soup with garbanzo beans, zucchini, carrots and some incredible seasonings. It made my belly very happy.

The Pilgrims Brunch Stop

As we were getting ready to leave, George pointed out Brad who also was sick with the flu from Day One. He’s feeling much better now. We all headed out of town together. He’s from the East Coast but has worked in Yosemite and near the Cascades in Washington. We talked all sorts of trail-talk, different places we’ve hiked and want to do in the not-so-distant future. Before long, I realized we had covered ten miles by Noon! It was actually 1150 and I let out a huge congratulations to Team COP. That was a huge accomplishment, setting us up to get in town by 3pm. Oh my goodness, I think I have a promising team after all.

10 BY 12

We had only 8 miles to go, a bit more climbing but it was easy peasy. We had a grand day with vistas in every direction. There are vineyards as far as the eye can see. It’s really something out of sorts to see so many grapes outside of California.

When we reached our plateau, we finally had a look at the Nájera region. It was a cross between Sedona, Flagstaff and Utah. There are these beautiful red rocks and mountains that surround the valley of vineyards. It is such a contrast and so out of place. But just breathtaking.

Into the Valley of Vineyards

The last few miles M&M took the lead. George and I held back, taking pictures, talking to other Pilgrims and just enjoying the beautiful scenery. As we neared the town, we all met up and with trusty ole Google, we made our way through Najara. It was a bit industrial at first, but the deeper we got, the town turned into the old charming villages that we are so accustomed to visiting. We crossed the river, and headed towards the base of the red rocks that we spotted miles back.

Rio Najerillo

Moody got us all checked in and settled. What a cool spot, again. My crew is beginning to be quite the asset. There was a bit of a mutiny in the beginning with my COP Team, but as our miles accumulate, I believe they are coming around. Although I did hear that Moody has secretly pocketed the number of a 24-hour taxi, just in case!

So Disappointed with Moody 24-Hour Taxi Back-Up Plan

Yet, as we were relaxing in the Apartment, Moody said that he was looking for more of a challenge. A longer trail, more miles, bigger climbs and I’m grinning from ear to ear. Then the others called his bluff and burst my bubble. He just wants the Gold Star for the day. I was tempted to give it to him but when all was said and done, Mel actually was awarded the dubious honor. She was a work horse today, never heard her complain and she was like a mountain goat, climbing over the many passes today! In fact she came out, chest pumped, legs in a low squat and taunting the trail. Bring it on! I am a Beast! Mel, you have come a long, long way, and earned the very first, one and only Gold Star ⭐️

To the Golden Star Recipient Melanie the Beast

There is something to be said about edifying and lifting each other up. When we surround ourselves with positive individuals and God-loving people, it is easy to want to please one another. During these past few days, it has been such a joy to see friends who typically don’t call themselves hikers become just that! I am here to say that I’m watching Moody & Mel become strong and powerful on the trail. What an inspiration they are and so exciting to follow them on this journey. Way to go M&M You are warriors and beasts!

“As iron sharpens iron, so one person sharpens another.” Proverbs‬ ‭27‬:‭17‬ ‭

Day 2: May 8, 2024 Orisson’s to Espinal Today: 14.4 miles Total Stats: 19.25 & 31.0 km

Sleeping in a Albergue-Refugio wasn’t all bad. I woke up this morning at 6am, just as the birds started chirping. There’s a nest just outside my room with several baby birds and they were hungry. For that matter, so am I. There were other Pilgrims quietly on their phones, checking out the days agenda. I slithered down my bunk metal ladder as quietly and tried not to sound like an elephant! It worked fairly well. Using both rungs from my bunk and the one next to me was rather brilliant, if I say so myself.

Baby Bird Nest

Once dressed and packed, I headed to the Mess Hall. It was the typical fare, coffee or hot chocolate with bread, butter and jam and maybe a bowl of corn flakes. I haven’t had Corn Flakes for years so I indulged. The milk comes in a non-refrigerated carton so room temperature milk. Hmm, not sure about that but beggars can be choosers! I ate with glee and headed back to retrieve my final belongings, power cord and battery bank and I was off like a High-Speed Turtle.

Leaving Orisson’s

The morning was a mixture of low clouds and cold mist. Typical mountain making its own weather. I had been talking with a friend Dee Bright who walked the Camino a few years ago. She sent me a picture of leaving Orisson’s which completely matched my encounter. Cold, drizzly and damp!

The Cows Were Unfazed by the Low Lying Clouds

One of the Piligrinos I sat with at the table and shared the Bunkhouse, left at the same time. He’s from Taiwan, married with two children. His wife has some medical conditions that keep her from hiking, but she gave him the blessing to walk this Camino. This was a dream of his since watching “The Way” with Martin Sheen. What an inspirational movie that was as so many spoke of it last night! He plans to walk the same distances as George and I so we will be finishing together. He could be a good hiking partner for George as I’m sure they will have much to talk about.

Fellow Pilgrims

I spotted a Food Van parked on the side of the road. This Frenchmen was one smart guy as every single Pilgrim stopped to have coffee, hot chocolate or tea along with various of other snacks, fruits and treats. What a welcome sight he was. We all had our drinks and snacks, then carried on.

Cafe on Wheels – French Version of a Food Truck

There were so many of us on the trail this morning and never ran out of people to talk with. I stopped at the local watering hole and ran into Mark from the Carolina’s with his friends from Pennsylvania and my buddy who I met yesterday, Joanne from Germany. We yakked about the Camino and where we would stop tonight. They all planned to go to the Monastery in Roncesvalles, as I plan to walk another 3-4 miles further. It ends up that we have much in common. Mark is a Christian whose wife passed away three years ago. They had talked about walking this Camino together but never had the opportunity. Mark walks every morning on the Mountain to Sea Trail which backs up to his yard, and has his God time. I had shared my reason for the Camino and before long, we were sharing our love for the Lord. Isn’t it beautiful how our wondrous Jesus opens doors for meaningful conversations. We walked for quite a bit of time, sharing our devotions and thoughts. Thank you Lord for opening doors.

Mark (Left) and Friends from Pennsylvania

All the way up the mountain it was gloomy, cold and cloudy. Yet as I was a few hundred feet from the summit, the skies parted and the sun illuminated over the path. I looked at Joanne mesmerized at how we were so blessed with sunshine at the summit!

Nelly the Border Collie on Top of the Pyrenees

Once we started downhill, we all split up in our downhill strides. The younger knees were bouncing down the trail as us more conservative Pilgrims were taking our sweet time. I was pretty much paired up with my East Coast Clan. We walked through a lot of mud and muck and was reminiscing of the Appalachian Trail. Mud, muck and rocks with the green tunnel above. It was so much the same as last year and made me realize how we really are so connected. Whether I am on US soil or European, we all have the same God who created the same space that we all walk upon! It is so interwoven and oh so beautiful.

Walking Down the Green Tunnel of The Camino

I bided farewell to my Camino Clan and hightailed it to see George. Through the woods, rural roads and farming communities, I made my way to my man. He had taken a taxi, all checked in and is awaiting my arrival. I finally showed up in the afternoon and he was ready with a beer in hand. It was much needed drink after my long distant hike over the Pyrenees. That sounds like a big deal, and honestly it was! My knees felt it, I was pooped and glad to get my pack off my back.

Over the Mountain, Through the Woods to Georgie I Go

We reunited, walked the streets of Espinoza which isn’t much and I made my way back to the room for my much anticipated bath! Yep I have a glorious bathtub to soak in.

Little Town of Espinal

George and I wandered down the street and found a quaint little restaurant with a bar. We both partook in more beer and hung out with the local Prligrinos. We shared stories of crossing the mountain and what lies ahead. I think the worst of it is over and more flat and long, dusty trails lie ahead. That can be just as hard!

New Friends & New Drink-Ricardo

I am thrilled to be back with George, my hiking partner and best buddy on this earth. We had a very salty meal of flank steak and French fries, fish and potatoes and some drink called Ricardo. This was recommended by our fellow tourist, all the way from France. What a great evening we had and now, I’m ready for bed. But tonight, no bunk bed but a nice queen sized bed with my not-so-sick George! Such an incredible healing he has experienced.

George is Back

We never know why things happen the way they do, but the Lord has plans and they are not always our plans. With that, George missed out on the climbing the Pyrenees which was something he trained for. It’s always a disappointment when things don’t go the way we hope for, but we also understand our hope is not in things, or places, mountains or valleys, but in the hope of our Lord! With that, we will persevere and finish what we started, to share God’s love the best way we can.

Day 1: May 7, 2024 Saint Jean Pied de Port to Orisson’s Today: 4.85 miles Total Stats: 4.85 & 7.8 km

Not the start I was hoping for. George has tried so hard to beat this bug but no such luck. He was up all night coughing, and started to get a fever. Needless to say I am opting for Plan B. George will hunker down for a couple of days, while I fly solo. Hopefully this will give him time to mend and give me some distance, so I don’t contract whatever nasty goop he’s got.

Leaving Solo

So after making final arrangements for George, sharing my ever-so-coveted Z-Pak Triple Antibiotics, I headed out on the Camino. No George in sight, just little ole me and the big sweet Lord. Here we go again.

The Camino Emblem Pointing The Way to Frances

The climb out of St. Jean is a booger. It’s like trial by fire, no breaking in easy, just up you go into the clouds. The day was pretty dismal with light scattered rain, low lying clouds but perfect hiking temperatures, just as I prefer. Most of the trail is an asphalt road which cars travel upon, but very few and far between. When a very big truck passes me, the driver slows enough, giving me a chance to take cover and move over to the grassy knoll. The sheep are blah-blah-blahing and the birds are chirp-chirp-chirping! It’s quite a lovely song that I listen to as I huff and puff up this ever-so-winding mountainside.

Many Blah-Blah-Blahing Sheep Making Cheese

I met several people from many different countries. One couple from California who relocated to Costa Rica, or somewhere near there. They shared a banana with me as he said, it would lighten his pack. Others from the Netherlands, Germany, Canada, Holland, Australia, Cuba as well as many more Europeans I just shared brief niceties and carried on. The walk was slow, wet and cold so I did little stopping, less talking and more gawking and oowing at the spectacular vistas in all directions.

Lush Green Rolling Pastures of France

Around lunchtime, I arrived at my destination, Refuge Orissons. It’s a bit of a culture per se, to stay the night here. Kind of like a rite of passage to state that you slept in this bunkhouse along the Camino. Once I took off my wet pack and rain jacket, I was allowed inside.

Refuge Orissons

The place was alive with Pilgrims, some fortunate enough to score a bed, others only passing through. I researched a place to sleep many months ago. Based on the mere fact that May is a super busy time of the year, and there are seldom any walk-ins, I knew our Pilgrimage would start once I secured this reservation. Fortunately someone will be blessed with a walk-in tonight, being George’s bed is up for grabs, a top bunk! He is probably thrilled to pieces that he missed out on the climbing up and down all night, because I too, have a top bunk! No privileges for being a Senior Citizen around here! As I say, it’s only one night and I can manage one evening of sleeplessness.

Recommended Fare for the Day -Sheep Cheese & Bread

I hightailed it to lunch and had my typical purée vegetable soup with some Sheep Cheese and Bread. Goodbye France and all your fine cuisine. Hello Spain! It’s all about Pork Chops and French Fries, from this day forward. No more Creme Brûlée or Froix Gras. Oh boy, oh boy, my heart is breaking already!

Oysters, Great Local Wine and French Way of Cooking

As I made my way inside the rustic dinner hall, I recognized many Pilgrims I’ve seen in SJPDP. We’re all headed the same direction and hard, not to run into each other, time and time again. For now soup it is and a warm shower. Then the unscheduled acrobatic show with me climbing into my very tall metal bunk bed. This is going to be an eventful evening. I will definitely need to refrain from large amounts of liquids, especially the alcoholic type.

Dinner with New Pilgrims

After dinner there was the customary introduce yourself, tell where you’re from with a brief synopsis of why you’re doing the Camino, while speaking in a spoon as your makeshift microphone. This should be fun! The first guy from Germany jumped up and started telling his entire life story! Such a jokester. It was incredible hearing from everyone with all the diversity, the countless countries represented and different life stages we were going through. Honestly, the old folks won out. We outnumbered the youngsters 4:1. Yeah for Senior Citizens. No wonder I got a top bunk. We’re all is need of a bottom bunk! I held up a photo of George and introduced us as a couple. Everyone got a kick out of that. The night ended fairly early as the Crew needed to cleanup and get ready for an early breakfast. All Pilgrims were in bed with lights off by 9pm. Well it helped that I was on the top bunk, in control of the light switch and deemed it time to turn it off. Good night Pikgrims!

Me and My Top Bunk

As I get ready to finish this first day, I am saddened that my George is not with me. He worked so hard to prepare for this journey and I know how disappointed he is. Please, all my Prayer Warriors, pray for George to be healed from this sickness, for his strength to be restored so that he can begin what he has come here to do. Much love to you all that follow my blog and I so do appreciate your continued faithfulness in our journey. Godspeed.

Pre-Day Jitters Saint Jean Pied de Port “SJPDP”

This is the ancient capital of the Basque region, with medieval atmosphere in its narrow streets. It is nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees at the “foot of the pass” pied de port. The population of 1800 serves the many Pilgrims that converge on this village.

St. Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP)
The Iconic Bridge Leading Into SJPDP

George and I had a couple of days to contemplate our task at hand, pick a route, get our packs ready, and start walking. Since we arrived three days early, there was much to see and food to eat. I think my favorite part of France is eating! Everything they say about French Cuisine is spot-on. It’s delectable and the sauces that they create, are out of this world. Even George is becoming a Foodie! That is saying a lot about a guy who typical goes for burgers and fries.

The Old George Before France, BF
George Gets a New Pallet, In France, IF

Not that there’s anything wrong with that, but eating a bowl of edamame, beets, radishes, cabbage and very little meat is not his typical fare. Yet here in France, he is stretching his palate and embracing the wonders of white asparagus and veal. I’m quite impressed, and hopefully all this good quality food will knock the cold he acquired. Poor guy isn’t feeling 100 percent. I’m sure partly stress and a little bit of running around chasing me, is contributing to his downright malaise. But he is getting in some extra sleep as I write this blog and he’ll be up and out in no time flat.

George Talking with the First Pilgrims He Met in SJPDP

We spent three days in St. Jean and ran into many Americans and Canadians. This couple above, plan to leave the same day that George and I will take foot. You can always pick out people from the US because, well they speak English. When someone hears another speaking their native tongue, you become quick, fast friends. We’ve met quite a few from US, but the one person I had no idea I’d run into was Kerri from the Sacramento Chapter of American Pilgrims. She is donating a week of time, checking in people at the Pilgrims Office. When we walked through the door, I about yelled her name out. She recognized George and I but had no idea who we were. Kerri and Andy are the leaders of our Sacramento Chapter. During the past three years, we have been to countless presentations about the Camino and all that this traveled path has to offer. The magic, the spiritual aspect, the healing and the friends that you make along the way, just to name a few. We both had our Pilgrim Passports stamped, heard of all the tales and woes that the recent rain and snow has brought. But most importantly, we received our good luck hug from Kerri. We were all smiles when we left the office. What an unexpected gift to see her in St. Jean!

Kerri, Leader of our Sacramento Chapter of the American Pilgrims
The Beginning of The Frances

After indulging in many tasty beers, drinking numerous glasses of wine, eating indescribable meals and walking every square foot of SJPDP, it is finally time to take off on our spiritual journey. We have planned and trained, and now, rain or shine, this dynamic duo are embarking on the longest trek we’ve ever done “together.” God-willing and the creek don’t rise, the Baraga’s will be taking our first steps on the Frances, come what may. Stay tuned and please pray for our health and safety along “The Way.” Ready or not, here we come…

St. Germain Chapel in Paris The Adventure Begins

3 Days in Paris

While climbing the Eiffel Tower or the Iron Lady as the Parisians call her, we were reminded that unless you have seen the Notre Dame, Sacré-Cœur and the Eiffel Tower, you cannot say you’ve seen Paris. Bam, we did all that and then some!

Iron Lady, aka Eiffel Tower

On Day One, we hit the road running. Our first excursion was a walking tour of Saint-Germain, a quintessential Parisian District which is home to countless historic cafes. This chic area is where famous writers and artists, such as Picasso and Hemingway, gathered in the 1920s. Paris’ oldest church is St. Germain, across the street from the famous Les Deux Magots, celebrating its’ 140th Anniversary. It had the most incredible espresso, baguettes and croissants!

Les Duex Magots Cafe

Last month while I was planning this adventure, we watched an episode of Rick Steve’s Mega Traveler in Paris. He mentioned a “City Pass” to gain access to many sights in Paris. I purchased a 3-Day Pass and George followed me through every nook and cranny I could find. And I found a lot!

Butte of Montmartre

One of the quintessential narrow corridors was known for the infamous Mr. Guillotine, who designed the first one used to humanely put criminals to death. I believe that is a matter of opinion, humanely or not? The back street in the Latin Quarter is also home of the oldest dining establishment dating back to the 16th Century, Procope.

The Latin Quarter

Procope, the oldest and most exclusive restaurant in Paris opened in 1686. It is known for their Onion Soup and other incredible delicious dishes and French cuisine. George and I indulged and honestly, it was, by far the best Onion Soup I’ve ever had! If I never have another bowl, I will be content. We also had the most expensive bottle of wine ever drank by the Baraga’s, Sauvignon Blanc. That is what happens when you tell the waiter to select a bottle that pairs well with the meal! Definitely a night we won’t forget.

All Smiles – Before the Bill

We also walked the River Seine, lined by River Boats and Bookanista’s which have traded their art, books and trinkets for hundreds of years! The Seine River splits and has, what they call the heart of Paris. Perched on the island is Notre Dame. As we heard about this landmark, our guide became quite emotional when she shared seeing Norte Dame on fire. There was nowhere in Paris that you couldn’t see the flames engulfing this breathtaking church. There were many that speculated a possible terrorist attack but as we know now, it was an electrical issue. Everything was lost inside its’ walls, art and artifacts that are irreplaceable. However as the Parisians explain, the most important element, the facade, is still intact. If all goes as planned, Notre Dame will be completed and open again by the end of the year.

Notre Dame

There is so much to see in Paris. By the end of Day One, George and I covered close to 14 miles. We toured most of the Left Bank of Paris, sat inside restaurants and cafes that date back hundreds of years, and praised the Lord in countless churches, chapels and cathedrals. It was an exhausting day but well worth the sore feet.

Writing this Blog

Day Two was a much more leisurely pace with the Eiffel Tower, River Boat Cruise and the Hop On & Off City Bus. Our internal circadian rhythm is much more in tune with Parisian time. We woke up, had coffee and walked to the Eiffel Tower by 0930 hours. It was a perfect day to climb 647 steps and take in the vistas from atop this Iron Lady.

Climbing the Steps of the Eiffel Tower

Mr. Eiffel, the genius who built this masterpiece was thought of, you’d say, a bit odd. The Parisian people were not too excited about this hunk of iron but as time grew on, they embraced it as the status of beauty, grace and communication. During WWI & II, Mr. Eiffel had placed, along with governmental authorities, many an antenna atop. First reason was US had built the Chrysler Building and not wanting to be beat out of the tallest structure in the world, added antennas. This surpassed US’s attempt at having the tallest building in the world during the 1900’s.

Eiffel Tower from Riverboat

The Eiffel Tower is painted every 7 years which takes months to complete, and has been painted several different shades from red, yellow, gold, tan and brown. People have speculated that Mr. Eiffel designed it after the love of his life Adrianna in the form of the letter “A.” But Mr. Eiffel wasn’t the only one with a love affair of this structure. In 2007, Erika Eiffel married the large piece of heavy metal in a full-on Commitment-Marriage ceremony. She would come visit her heavy metal husband regularly. But this marriage did not have a happy ending, as she divorced the Tower last year. She now has her eyes on, you guessed it, one said Fence. No, you can’t make this stuff up. Google her, Erika Eiffel, strangest woman alive!

After huffing and puffing, George and I took the very fast elevator down to ground level and made our way to the Riverboat Cruise. This was a leisurely float down the Seine River. The weather was nice enough, met a sweet Polish gal from Scotland, and talked most the trip. Hopefully, me and Veronica will become penpals and possibly visit one another. She is 13, going on 28, quite bright and plans to be a Dermatologist. She speaks four languages and wants to attend both Yale & Harvard. Why not set your sights high?

Veronica from Poland-Scotland

After our Riverboat ride, we headed over to the Hop On & Off Bus. The issue is, we have no desire to hop off! Round the city we went when George and I decided unequivocally, that we have walked the entire distance of Paris. There weren’t many places the we haven’t explored. We jumped off at Arc du Triumph and headed back to end Day Two.

The Lourve

But boy, oh boy did George get rewarded! We stopped at Hippopotamus Steakhouse and ordered two red-juicy steak dinners, with Parisian Green Beans, and Mashed Potatoes. George had the potatoes and thought they were as good as his. That’s a big deal! I followed it with Meringue with Lemon Sorbet and Crèma Fraiche and a Cappuccino. Oh my goodness, I just love it here.

Finally Steak for George
My Favorite Dessert Ever

Our final day was visiting Montmartre region which is home of Sacre Couer and the hidden passages. We met our tour guide Bene and she told us the unique history of this area.

The Oldest of all the Passages “Panorama” Built in 1799

In the 18th Century, Paris was considered dirty and disgusting. Those were her words, not mine! The streets were dusty and filthy and there was nowhere safe to walk, let alone shop. In the late 1700’s and early 1800’s, the Bourgeois women demanded that they required a safe place to venture out to. At their request, these secret passages were constructed, each different with ornate architecture and the first-ever leaded glass ceilings. Electricity was not available and the only form of light was natural illumination. As time went on, gas lanterns were added to some of the passages.

Collette – Longest Passage

Each shopping mall, per se, provided merchants selling fine linen and clothing, along with household items, various consumables including some with Restaurants and Hotels.

Colbert Passage

During the period of 1799-1900, 140 of these ornate and uniquely different passages were built. We walked through seven that have been maintained and preserved as national landmarks. It was like walking back into time, yet had everything a modern woman or man would desire.

Montmartre District

Afterwards, we met at the Moulin Rouge and were introduced to our final guide of the week, Maria from Spain. The Montmartre District was not considered part of Paris in the 1700’s. It was home to the poorest peasants and starving artists, due to the fact it was undeveloped and considered an undesirable area. Being situated on top of a hill, it had close to 20 windmills in which three still stand. One happens to be atop the Moulin Rouge.

Moulin Rouge Recently Lost its’ Windmills

Moulin Rouge is still today a Burlesque Show with singer and dancers, and plenty of alcohol flowing. In the day, they had the Modesty Police who would check the undergarments of the dancers to make sure they would not show anything inappropriate. Imagine having that job! Once the ladies were checked, and deemed appropriately dressed, the ladies would remove their bloomers and dance the Can-Can. The top paying clients would sit in the front row and get quite the show. Hence the name Can-Can as the dancers can do whatever they please.

$220 Euros Per Person

We walked to the top of the hill, which is quite a climb. There were homes and restaurants that date back before to the 1700’s. The most longest operating restaurant is the La Maison, which is one of the most sought after dining experiences in Paris.

La Maison Circa 1790

We finished our tour at the Sacre Coeur, the sacred heart of Jesus. Sacré-Cœur Basilica is located at the summit of the Butte of Montmartre. From its dome about 500 feet above the Seine, the basilica overlooks the entire city of Paris and its suburbs. It is the most beautiful place in all of Paris, with its domed ceiling, stained glass, mosaic walls and marble floors. It is a treasure for the Parisian people!

Maria in front of Sacre Coeur

We wandered back down and finished the evening off with a comedy show “How to become a Parisian. ” Olivier Giraud has been teaching cultures from around the world how to act in all sorts of situations from sitting on the Metro, to dining in a restaurant, going to a nightclub or anything you can think of. Being from California, I was definitely a butt of his jokes, and learned quite a bit about how not to act! Honestly, he portrays French people as the stereotypical version, harsh, rude and indifferent, rather than the way we saw them.

Leaving Paris I can truly say that the rudest people we met were other tourists, while the nicest and most polite were Parisians. Each time we were confused or looked out of place, which was quite often, the locals were friendly and did their absolute best to get us back on track. I would return here in a heartbeat. As for a city, it was hands-down one of the most spectacular cities I’ve ever wandered around. The architecture, churches, very high priced food, and the culture were all incredible. Thank you Paris and all your beautiful people!

Saint Chappell