Day 2: May 8, 2024 Orisson’s to Espinal Today: 14.4 miles Total Stats: 19.25 & 31.0 km

May 9, 2024May 9, 2024 / Kelly Hikes / 4 Comments

Sleeping in a Albergue-Refugio wasn’t all bad. I woke up this morning at 6am, just as the birds started chirping. There’s a nest just outside my room with several baby birds and they were hungry. For that matter, so am I. There were other Pilgrims quietly on their phones, checking out the days agenda. I slithered down my bunk metal ladder as quietly and tried not to sound like an elephant! It worked fairly well. Using both rungs from my bunk and the one next to me was rather brilliant, if I say so myself.

Once dressed and packed, I headed to the Mess Hall. It was the typical fare, coffee or hot chocolate with bread, butter and jam and maybe a bowl of corn flakes. I haven’t had Corn Flakes for years so I indulged. The milk comes in a non-refrigerated carton so room temperature milk. Hmm, not sure about that but beggars can be choosers! I ate with glee and headed back to retrieve my final belongings, power cord and battery bank and I was off like a High-Speed Turtle.

The morning was a mixture of low clouds and cold mist. Typical mountain making its own weather. I had been talking with a friend Dee Bright who walked the Camino a few years ago. She sent me a picture of leaving Orisson’s which completely matched my encounter. Cold, drizzly and damp!

The Cows Were Unfazed by the Low Lying Clouds

One of the Piligrinos I sat with at the table and shared the Bunkhouse, left at the same time. He’s from Taiwan, married with two children. His wife has some medical conditions that keep her from hiking, but she gave him the blessing to walk this Camino. This was a dream of his since watching “The Way” with Martin Sheen. What an inspirational movie that was as so many spoke of it last night! He plans to walk the same distances as George and I so we will be finishing together. He could be a good hiking partner for George as I’m sure they will have much to talk about.

I spotted a Food Van parked on the side of the road. This Frenchmen was one smart guy as every single Pilgrim stopped to have coffee, hot chocolate or tea along with various of other snacks, fruits and treats. What a welcome sight he was. We all had our drinks and snacks, then carried on.

Cafe on Wheels – French Version of a Food Truck

There were so many of us on the trail this morning and never ran out of people to talk with. I stopped at the local watering hole and ran into Mark from the Carolina’s with his friends from Pennsylvania and my buddy who I met yesterday, Joanne from Germany. We yakked about the Camino and where we would stop tonight. They all planned to go to the Monastery in Roncesvalles, as I plan to walk another 3-4 miles further. It ends up that we have much in common. Mark is a Christian whose wife passed away three years ago. They had talked about walking this Camino together but never had the opportunity. Mark walks every morning on the Mountain to Sea Trail which backs up to his yard, and has his God time. I had shared my reason for the Camino and before long, we were sharing our love for the Lord. Isn’t it beautiful how our wondrous Jesus opens doors for meaningful conversations. We walked for quite a bit of time, sharing our devotions and thoughts. Thank you Lord for opening doors.

Mark (Left) and Friends from Pennsylvania

All the way up the mountain it was gloomy, cold and cloudy. Yet as I was a few hundred feet from the summit, the skies parted and the sun illuminated over the path. I looked at Joanne mesmerized at how we were so blessed with sunshine at the summit!

Nelly the Border Collie on Top of the Pyrenees

Once we started downhill, we all split up in our downhill strides. The younger knees were bouncing down the trail as us more conservative Pilgrims were taking our sweet time. I was pretty much paired up with my East Coast Clan. We walked through a lot of mud and muck and was reminiscing of the Appalachian Trail. Mud, muck and rocks with the green tunnel above. It was so much the same as last year and made me realize how we really are so connected. Whether I am on US soil or European, we all have the same God who created the same space that we all walk upon! It is so interwoven and oh so beautiful.

Walking Down the Green Tunnel of The Camino

I bided farewell to my Camino Clan and hightailed it to see George. Through the woods, rural roads and farming communities, I made my way to my man. He had taken a taxi, all checked in and is awaiting my arrival. I finally showed up in the afternoon and he was ready with a beer in hand. It was much needed drink after my long distant hike over the Pyrenees. That sounds like a big deal, and honestly it was! My knees felt it, I was pooped and glad to get my pack off my back.

Over the Mountain, Through the Woods to Georgie I Go

We reunited, walked the streets of Espinoza which isn’t much and I made my way back to the room for my much anticipated bath! Yep I have a glorious bathtub to soak in.

George and I wandered down the street and found a quaint little restaurant with a bar. We both partook in more beer and hung out with the local Prligrinos. We shared stories of crossing the mountain and what lies ahead. I think the worst of it is over and more flat and long, dusty trails lie ahead. That can be just as hard!

I am thrilled to be back with George, my hiking partner and best buddy on this earth. We had a very salty meal of flank steak and French fries, fish and potatoes and some drink called Ricardo. This was recommended by our fellow tourist, all the way from France. What a great evening we had and now, I’m ready for bed. But tonight, no bunk bed but a nice queen sized bed with my not-so-sick George! Such an incredible healing he has experienced.

We never know why things happen the way they do, but the Lord has plans and they are not always our plans. With that, George missed out on the climbing the Pyrenees which was something he trained for. It’s always a disappointment when things don’t go the way we hope for, but we also understand our hope is not in things, or places, mountains or valleys, but in the hope of our Lord! With that, we will persevere and finish what we started, to share God’s love the best way we can.

Day 1: May 7, 2024 Saint Jean Pied de Port to Orisson’s Today: 4.85 miles Total Stats: 4.85 & 7.8 km

May 7, 2024May 7, 2024 / Kelly Hikes / 14 Comments

Not the start I was hoping for. George has tried so hard to beat this bug but no such luck. He was up all night coughing, and started to get a fever. Needless to say I am opting for Plan B. George will hunker down for a couple of days, while I fly solo. Hopefully this will give him time to mend and give me some distance, so I don’t contract whatever nasty goop he’s got.

So after making final arrangements for George, sharing my ever-so-coveted Z-Pak Triple Antibiotics, I headed out on the Camino. No George in sight, just little ole me and the big sweet Lord. Here we go again.

The Camino Emblem Pointing The Way to Frances

The climb out of St. Jean is a booger. It’s like trial by fire, no breaking in easy, just up you go into the clouds. The day was pretty dismal with light scattered rain, low lying clouds but perfect hiking temperatures, just as I prefer. Most of the trail is an asphalt road which cars travel upon, but very few and far between. When a very big truck passes me, the driver slows enough, giving me a chance to take cover and move over to the grassy knoll. The sheep are blah-blah-blahing and the birds are chirp-chirp-chirping! It’s quite a lovely song that I listen to as I huff and puff up this ever-so-winding mountainside.

Many Blah-Blah-Blahing Sheep Making Cheese

I met several people from many different countries. One couple from California who relocated to Costa Rica, or somewhere near there. They shared a banana with me as he said, it would lighten his pack. Others from the Netherlands, Germany, Canada, Holland, Australia, Cuba as well as many more Europeans I just shared brief niceties and carried on. The walk was slow, wet and cold so I did little stopping, less talking and more gawking and oowing at the spectacular vistas in all directions.

Around lunchtime, I arrived at my destination, Refuge Orissons. It’s a bit of a culture per se, to stay the night here. Kind of like a rite of passage to state that you slept in this bunkhouse along the Camino. Once I took off my wet pack and rain jacket, I was allowed inside.

The place was alive with Pilgrims, some fortunate enough to score a bed, others only passing through. I researched a place to sleep many months ago. Based on the mere fact that May is a super busy time of the year, and there are seldom any walk-ins, I knew our Pilgrimage would start once I secured this reservation. Fortunately someone will be blessed with a walk-in tonight, being George’s bed is up for grabs, a top bunk! He is probably thrilled to pieces that he missed out on the climbing up and down all night, because I too, have a top bunk! No privileges for being a Senior Citizen around here! As I say, it’s only one night and I can manage one evening of sleeplessness.

Recommended Fare for the Day -Sheep Cheese & Bread

I hightailed it to lunch and had my typical purée vegetable soup with some Sheep Cheese and Bread. Goodbye France and all your fine cuisine. Hello Spain! It’s all about Pork Chops and French Fries, from this day forward. No more Creme Brûlée or Froix Gras. Oh boy, oh boy, my heart is breaking already!

Oysters, Great Local Wine and French Way of Cooking

As I made my way inside the rustic dinner hall, I recognized many Pilgrims I’ve seen in SJPDP. We’re all headed the same direction and hard, not to run into each other, time and time again. For now soup it is and a warm shower. Then the unscheduled acrobatic show with me climbing into my very tall metal bunk bed. This is going to be an eventful evening. I will definitely need to refrain from large amounts of liquids, especially the alcoholic type.

After dinner there was the customary introduce yourself, tell where you’re from with a brief synopsis of why you’re doing the Camino, while speaking in a spoon as your makeshift microphone. This should be fun! The first guy from Germany jumped up and started telling his entire life story! Such a jokester. It was incredible hearing from everyone with all the diversity, the countless countries represented and different life stages we were going through. Honestly, the old folks won out. We outnumbered the youngsters 4:1. Yeah for Senior Citizens. No wonder I got a top bunk. We’re all is need of a bottom bunk! I held up a photo of George and introduced us as a couple. Everyone got a kick out of that. The night ended fairly early as the Crew needed to cleanup and get ready for an early breakfast. All Pilgrims were in bed with lights off by 9pm. Well it helped that I was on the top bunk, in control of the light switch and deemed it time to turn it off. Good night Pikgrims!

As I get ready to finish this first day, I am saddened that my George is not with me. He worked so hard to prepare for this journey and I know how disappointed he is. Please, all my Prayer Warriors, pray for George to be healed from this sickness, for his strength to be restored so that he can begin what he has come here to do. Much love to you all that follow my blog and I so do appreciate your continued faithfulness in our journey. Godspeed.

Pre-Day Jitters Saint Jean Pied de Port “SJPDP”

May 6, 2024May 6, 2024 / Kelly Hikes / 5 Comments

This is the ancient capital of the Basque region, with medieval atmosphere in its narrow streets. It is nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees at the “foot of the pass” pied de port. The population of 1800 serves the many Pilgrims that converge on this village.

George and I had a couple of days to contemplate our task at hand, pick a route, get our packs ready, and start walking. Since we arrived three days early, there was much to see and food to eat. I think my favorite part of France is eating! Everything they say about French Cuisine is spot-on. It’s delectable and the sauces that they create, are out of this world. Even George is becoming a Foodie! That is saying a lot about a guy who typical goes for burgers and fries.

Not that there’s anything wrong with that, but eating a bowl of edamame, beets, radishes, cabbage and very little meat is not his typical fare. Yet here in France, he is stretching his palate and embracing the wonders of white asparagus and veal. I’m quite impressed, and hopefully all this good quality food will knock the cold he acquired. Poor guy isn’t feeling 100 percent. I’m sure partly stress and a little bit of running around chasing me, is contributing to his downright malaise. But he is getting in some extra sleep as I write this blog and he’ll be up and out in no time flat.

George Talking with the First Pilgrims He Met in SJPDP

We spent three days in St. Jean and ran into many Americans and Canadians. This couple above, plan to leave the same day that George and I will take foot. You can always pick out people from the US because, well they speak English. When someone hears another speaking their native tongue, you become quick, fast friends. We’ve met quite a few from US, but the one person I had no idea I’d run into was Kerri from the Sacramento Chapter of American Pilgrims. She is donating a week of time, checking in people at the Pilgrims Office. When we walked through the door, I about yelled her name out. She recognized George and I but had no idea who we were. Kerri and Andy are the leaders of our Sacramento Chapter. During the past three years, we have been to countless presentations about the Camino and all that this traveled path has to offer. The magic, the spiritual aspect, the healing and the friends that you make along the way, just to name a few. We both had our Pilgrim Passports stamped, heard of all the tales and woes that the recent rain and snow has brought. But most importantly, we received our good luck hug from Kerri. We were all smiles when we left the office. What an unexpected gift to see her in St. Jean!

Kerri, Leader of our Sacramento Chapter of the American Pilgrims

After indulging in many tasty beers, drinking numerous glasses of wine, eating indescribable meals and walking every square foot of SJPDP, it is finally time to take off on our spiritual journey. We have planned and trained, and now, rain or shine, this dynamic duo are embarking on the longest trek we’ve ever done “together.” God-willing and the creek don’t rise, the Baraga’s will be taking our first steps on the Frances, come what may. Stay tuned and please pray for our health and safety along “The Way.” Ready or not, here we come…

St. Germain Chapel in Paris The Adventure Begins

3 Days in Paris

May 3, 2024May 6, 2024 / Kelly Hikes / 4 Comments

While climbing the Eiffel Tower or the Iron Lady as the Parisians call her, we were reminded that unless you have seen the Notre Dame, Sacré-Cœur and the Eiffel Tower, you cannot say you’ve seen Paris. Bam, we did all that and then some!

On Day One, we hit the road running. Our first excursion was a walking tour of Saint-Germain, a quintessential Parisian District which is home to countless historic cafes. This chic area is where famous writers and artists, such as Picasso and Hemingway, gathered in the 1920s. Paris’ oldest church is St. Germain, across the street from the famous Les Deux Magots, celebrating its’ 140th Anniversary. It had the most incredible espresso, baguettes and croissants!

Last month while I was planning this adventure, we watched an episode of Rick Steve’s Mega Traveler in Paris. He mentioned a “City Pass” to gain access to many sights in Paris. I purchased a 3-Day Pass and George followed me through every nook and cranny I could find. And I found a lot!

One of the quintessential narrow corridors was known for the infamous Mr. Guillotine, who designed the first one used to humanely put criminals to death. I believe that is a matter of opinion, humanely or not? The back street in the Latin Quarter is also home of the oldest dining establishment dating back to the 16th Century, Procope.

Procope, the oldest and most exclusive restaurant in Paris opened in 1686. It is known for their Onion Soup and other incredible delicious dishes and French cuisine. George and I indulged and honestly, it was, by far the best Onion Soup I’ve ever had! If I never have another bowl, I will be content. We also had the most expensive bottle of wine ever drank by the Baraga’s, Sauvignon Blanc. That is what happens when you tell the waiter to select a bottle that pairs well with the meal! Definitely a night we won’t forget.

We also walked the River Seine, lined by River Boats and Bookanista’s which have traded their art, books and trinkets for hundreds of years! The Seine River splits and has, what they call the heart of Paris. Perched on the island is Notre Dame. As we heard about this landmark, our guide became quite emotional when she shared seeing Norte Dame on fire. There was nowhere in Paris that you couldn’t see the flames engulfing this breathtaking church. There were many that speculated a possible terrorist attack but as we know now, it was an electrical issue. Everything was lost inside its’ walls, art and artifacts that are irreplaceable. However as the Parisians explain, the most important element, the facade, is still intact. If all goes as planned, Notre Dame will be completed and open again by the end of the year.

There is so much to see in Paris. By the end of Day One, George and I covered close to 14 miles. We toured most of the Left Bank of Paris, sat inside restaurants and cafes that date back hundreds of years, and praised the Lord in countless churches, chapels and cathedrals. It was an exhausting day but well worth the sore feet.

Day Two was a much more leisurely pace with the Eiffel Tower, River Boat Cruise and the Hop On & Off City Bus. Our internal circadian rhythm is much more in tune with Parisian time. We woke up, had coffee and walked to the Eiffel Tower by 0930 hours. It was a perfect day to climb 647 steps and take in the vistas from atop this Iron Lady.

Mr. Eiffel, the genius who built this masterpiece was thought of, you’d say, a bit odd. The Parisian people were not too excited about this hunk of iron but as time grew on, they embraced it as the status of beauty, grace and communication. During WWI & II, Mr. Eiffel had placed, along with governmental authorities, many an antenna atop. First reason was US had built the Chrysler Building and not wanting to be beat out of the tallest structure in the world, added antennas. This surpassed US’s attempt at having the tallest building in the world during the 1900’s.

The Eiffel Tower is painted every 7 years which takes months to complete, and has been painted several different shades from red, yellow, gold, tan and brown. People have speculated that Mr. Eiffel designed it after the love of his life Adrianna in the form of the letter “A.” But Mr. Eiffel wasn’t the only one with a love affair of this structure. In 2007, Erika Eiffel married the large piece of heavy metal in a full-on Commitment-Marriage ceremony. She would come visit her heavy metal husband regularly. But this marriage did not have a happy ending, as she divorced the Tower last year. She now has her eyes on, you guessed it, one said Fence. No, you can’t make this stuff up. Google her, Erika Eiffel, strangest woman alive!

After huffing and puffing, George and I took the very fast elevator down to ground level and made our way to the Riverboat Cruise. This was a leisurely float down the Seine River. The weather was nice enough, met a sweet Polish gal from Scotland, and talked most the trip. Hopefully, me and Veronica will become penpals and possibly visit one another. She is 13, going on 28, quite bright and plans to be a Dermatologist. She speaks four languages and wants to attend both Yale & Harvard. Why not set your sights high?

After our Riverboat ride, we headed over to the Hop On & Off Bus. The issue is, we have no desire to hop off! Round the city we went when George and I decided unequivocally, that we have walked the entire distance of Paris. There weren’t many places the we haven’t explored. We jumped off at Arc du Triumph and headed back to end Day Two.

But boy, oh boy did George get rewarded! We stopped at Hippopotamus Steakhouse and ordered two red-juicy steak dinners, with Parisian Green Beans, and Mashed Potatoes. George had the potatoes and thought they were as good as his. That’s a big deal! I followed it with Meringue with Lemon Sorbet and Crèma Fraiche and a Cappuccino. Oh my goodness, I just love it here.

Our final day was visiting Montmartre region which is home of Sacre Couer and the hidden passages. We met our tour guide Bene and she told us the unique history of this area.

The Oldest of all the Passages “Panorama” Built in 1799

In the 18th Century, Paris was considered dirty and disgusting. Those were her words, not mine! The streets were dusty and filthy and there was nowhere safe to walk, let alone shop. In the late 1700’s and early 1800’s, the Bourgeois women demanded that they required a safe place to venture out to. At their request, these secret passages were constructed, each different with ornate architecture and the first-ever leaded glass ceilings. Electricity was not available and the only form of light was natural illumination. As time went on, gas lanterns were added to some of the passages.

Each shopping mall, per se, provided merchants selling fine linen and clothing, along with household items, various consumables including some with Restaurants and Hotels.

During the period of 1799-1900, 140 of these ornate and uniquely different passages were built. We walked through seven that have been maintained and preserved as national landmarks. It was like walking back into time, yet had everything a modern woman or man would desire.

Afterwards, we met at the Moulin Rouge and were introduced to our final guide of the week, Maria from Spain. The Montmartre District was not considered part of Paris in the 1700’s. It was home to the poorest peasants and starving artists, due to the fact it was undeveloped and considered an undesirable area. Being situated on top of a hill, it had close to 20 windmills in which three still stand. One happens to be atop the Moulin Rouge.

Moulin Rouge Recently Lost its’ Windmills

Moulin Rouge is still today a Burlesque Show with singer and dancers, and plenty of alcohol flowing. In the day, they had the Modesty Police who would check the undergarments of the dancers to make sure they would not show anything inappropriate. Imagine having that job! Once the ladies were checked, and deemed appropriately dressed, the ladies would remove their bloomers and dance the Can-Can. The top paying clients would sit in the front row and get quite the show. Hence the name Can-Can as the dancers can do whatever they please.

We walked to the top of the hill, which is quite a climb. There were homes and restaurants that date back before to the 1700’s. The most longest operating restaurant is the La Maison, which is one of the most sought after dining experiences in Paris.

We finished our tour at the Sacre Coeur, the sacred heart of Jesus. Sacré-Cœur Basilica is located at the summit of the Butte of Montmartre. From its dome about 500 feet above the Seine, the basilica overlooks the entire city of Paris and its suburbs. It is the most beautiful place in all of Paris, with its domed ceiling, stained glass, mosaic walls and marble floors. It is a treasure for the Parisian people!

We wandered back down and finished the evening off with a comedy show “How to become a Parisian. ” Olivier Giraud has been teaching cultures from around the world how to act in all sorts of situations from sitting on the Metro, to dining in a restaurant, going to a nightclub or anything you can think of. Being from California, I was definitely a butt of his jokes, and learned quite a bit about how not to act! Honestly, he portrays French people as the stereotypical version, harsh, rude and indifferent, rather than the way we saw them.

Leaving Paris I can truly say that the rudest people we met were other tourists, while the nicest and most polite were Parisians. Each time we were confused or looked out of place, which was quite often, the locals were friendly and did their absolute best to get us back on track. I would return here in a heartbeat. As for a city, it was hands-down one of the most spectacular cities I’ve ever wandered around. The architecture, churches, very high priced food, and the culture were all incredible. Thank you Paris and all your beautiful people!

April 28-29, 2024: Lift-Off & Arrival in Paris, France

May 3, 2024May 3, 2024 / Kelly Hikes / 9 Comments

It was touch & go but after a two hour delay, Delta took off. Funny thing was I had been reading about how “on-time” they boasted. 100% of their flights arrived as proclaimed, except for today. What I am unsure of is, will we make our connection from Seattle to Paris?!?! After the electrical malfunction was declared fixed, we lifted off 1-1/2 hours late. We now have a tight 30 minute connection, so let’s see how those cortisone shots worked on our aging knees. Stay tuned…

As proclaimed, Delta made it happen. We landed in Seattle, and George and I sprinted across the airport. Yep, you read that right! Across the corridor, down and up countless flights of stairs and escalators from one terminal, to a train and up to another terminal. We actually arrived with 15 minutes to spare and a bit out of breath! Whether our bags make it, well that’s a wait and see game but we are on our final leg to Paris.

I haven’t flown on Delta much. But I’m sure I’ll be flying again. Pillows, blankets and drinks were promptly provided. No delays from Seattle and we were on our way. We are flying a big Air Bus-330, hopefully not the same plane that the doors came off! We have plenty of leg room in Business Class, which after last years cramped quarters, I splurged and went big. More space, which in the end didn’t cost much extra, being you get one bag checked for free. All I carried on was a shoulder bag, and George had his man purse. Thank goodness, as we had little to slow us down on our unexpected afternoon sprints.

I watched three movies, had two glasses of wine, dinner and breakfast and slept for 30 minutes tops! Flying and sleeping don’t really go hand in hand! But the Flight Attendants were accommodating and we were well taken care of.

We arrived in Paris at 1:30pm, a bit early with sunshine and a few scattered clouds. Customs was a breeze, we picked up our luggage, yes it made it and found our way to the Train Station. That was another bit of a walk, but after sitting for 12 hours on planes, it was welcomed.

Paris feels safe with the extra Police lurking around everywhere. They helped us in finding the right train, the gal at the Train Kiosk assisted with purchasing the correct tickets for our train excursion, and we were well on our way.

The Train was more of a Metro, but clean enough with many people getting off and on. We had one connection to make, which was pretty seamless. As we walked to our next and final train, it had just arrived. We found a seat and we were off to our final stop. The transportation in France, and Europe for that matter, is pretty darn efficient.

We popped up like a mole from underground, around 3:30pm, and walked a mile to our lovely home for the next week. The local market, had our keys, talked with the owner who was quite friendly and made our way to Franck’s Apartment. Thank goodness for lifts, being we are on the 7th Floor. It’s quite the view from up here! I picked this Apartment for a couple of reasons. The outdoor patio, the location and all the five-star reviews! It’s nice having a flat in Paris for a few days and taking in the sights of the city. We have arrived!

The 17th Arrondissement of Paris is one of the 20 Arrondissements of the capital city of France. In spoken French, it is referred to as le dix-septième. The arrondissement, known as Batignolles-Monceau, is situated on the right bank of the River Seine. This s is where we are.

Eiffel Tower in the Background Lights Up in the Evening

In 2019, it had a population of 166,543. It borders the inner suburbs of Neuilly-sur-Seine, Levallois-Perret and Clichy in Hauts-de-Seine to the northwest, as well as Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine in Seine-Saint-Denis to the northeast. It’s all foreign to me but I’m sure in the next couple of days, I’ll have the lay of the land, just before we leave. I can tell you one thing, we can see the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe and Norte Dame from our deck. I think we’ll stay for awhile!

And then there’s Beer in front of the Arc de Triomphe

Thank you Lord for protecting us, directing our plane safely and landing us in this incredible city. Bless the people who helped us along the way, and our steps as we travel through.

Pondering the Poet William Ward and his Words Regarding Risk

May 3, 2024May 6, 2024 / Kelly Hikes / 7 Comments

It’s always interesting to wonder why one embarks on these types of treks? Is it the love of the outdoors, yes! Is it to get closer to the Lord, by all means, indeed it is. Or is it just to get away from the everyday humdrum of life, the same ole’ same ole’, a resounding heck yeah! But when we do something like leave all the comforts of home behind, there are apparent risks. There’s no Doctor nearby, no pharmacy to fill my prescription, if I had ones to be filled. There’s the risk of leaving my loved ones behind, my daughter and grandson’s, my friends and church, my incredibly sweetheart of a dog, Zoey! Honestly, these are my biggest heartbreaks. Fortunately for this go-around, my partner in crime, my incredible husband George, will be accompanying me.

Yet, there is the risk of just walking away from life as I know it. My lovely home, my scrumptious garden, my Temper-Pedic Mattress! Let’s be real. I love my bed and my big soaking bathtub.

But, more than all the creature comforts of home, I have this unstoppable love-affair with walking or hiking, whatever it may be. Feeling the wind upon my face, the sun above my head, the beads of sweat rolling down my brow and the sound of my labored breath which makes me feel alive! Rain or shine, clouds or sun, sleet or snow, is always better than stagnant air, any day of the week!

As I prepare for the latest round of Kellyhikes4God, I read this beautiful and poignant poem that I must share. It made me consider my true desires and passions, and the non-negotiable risks of life!

To laugh is to risk appearing a fool; To weep is to risk being called sentimental.

To reach out to another is to risk involvement; To expose feelings is to risk exposing your true self

To place your ideas and dreams before a crowd is to risk their loss; To love is to risk not being loved in return

To live is to risk dying; To try is to risk failure.

Chained by their servitude, they are slaves who have forfeited all freedom. Only a person who risks is truly free.

But risks must be taken; Because the greatest hazard in life is to risk nothing.

The Ya-Ya Sisterhood – The Best of Friends

So in the end, I may take a risk or two. But only because my sweet Lord is with me. Trusting that when I am following His lead, life is worth taking a few risks, and with that, my tank is filled.

”For the Spirit God gave us does not make us timid, but gives us power, love and self-discipline.“
‭‭2 Timothy‬ ‭1‬:‭7‬ ‭NIV‬‬

And Soon, We Will Be Off Again!

April 12, 2024April 24, 2024 / Kelly Hikes / 10 Comments

After returning from Portugal last year, George was transformed! He went from Onlooker to Pilgrim and has not looked back. They say that the trail changes you and in my husbands case, it took hold of him. Something primal, definitely spiritual but more so physical. George is transformed into a Pilgrim and now I have a partner who is willing, eager and able to take another walk.

This year, George chose the Frances. It is a 500 mile Pilgrimage that begins in St. Jean Pied de Port, climbs up and over the Pyrenees and continues west across Spain to Santiago. This will be a much greater challenge than last year for many reasons, but one that will bring us closer to the Lord. There is no doubt that we will depend on Him daily to help us connect with the countless Pilgrims we will meet along The Way. Yet allow us time to commune with Jesus, to really know Him at a deeper level, and totally depend on Him for our everyday needs.

St Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago, Spain

We will be leaving in a few days, boarding a plane and flying to France. The plan goes that we will bum around Paris for close to a week, then head to the Northern Beaches of France, and finally embarking on our journey May 7th. If you’ve ever watched the movie “The Way” with Martin Sheen, it is the same route that he traveled with the ashes of his son. Quite a testament to how one persons passion turns into another’s journey. It is a powerful story and depicts the familiar route that we will follow.

Beautifully-Crafted Movie Find it on Netflix

Right now George is walking, with his pack on, up and down the streets and trails of Placer County. He is preparing to take off with a much greater ease and determination than his last Pilgrimage. There is something to be said about knowing what to expect, but there is also something to acknowledge; expect the unexpected. With all his training, the physical part will be a breeze, leaving the door wide-open for the spiritual encounters. Our Lord is priming us both for something deeper, more intense and lesser than just blisters, pulled muscles and tired legs. He is calling us to share His goodness, love and light by being Pilgrims to others that we meet. So standby to follow the tales or tails of George & Kelly as they embark on another journey of life, love and light.

I will make you to be a covenant to the people…to open eyes that are blind. Isaiah 42:6-7

October – November 23’ The Camiño – The Way Portuguese Central to Coastal Routes Lisbon to Santiago

November 9, 2023November 9, 2023 / Kelly Hikes / 7 Comments

What an incredible pilgrimage this has been. George and I have never attempted such a journey together. In the past, I typically pack my bag, and venture out on long distant trails solo. George stays home and supports me by mailing me food drops, new gear, replacement poles and occasionally, a card that confesses his love for me. This has been the Baraga’s modus operandi. But this past month, all has changed.

The first of October, George and I packed our backpacks together and headed to Portugal. We had heard of this Pilgrimage for years from friends and Actor Martin Sheen in the movie “The Way.” When we first considered this idea of walking The Camiño, we thought of many different routes but ultimately landed on The Portuguese Way, Central to Coastal from Lisbon to Santiago. It seemed to fit perfectly for the amount of time we had and the lack of elevation changes. The Portuguese Way is relatively flat with 400 miles, more or less depending on alternate and varying routes.

Many people questioned our desire to start in Lisbon. Most Pilgrims choose to begin in Porto and bypass the industrial areas that lead out of Lisbon and the surrounding areas that are less desirable. Being we had the time, and we wanted to experience all of what Portugal had to offer, we started in Lisbon.

Our first week was hot, flat and dry. There were thoughts of why? This is an arid desolate area, with a lot of industry. Graffiti on many abandoned structures and fields of grasses, corn and kale. But as we settled in, I enjoyed the surroundings. The heat, on the other hand was my nemesis. There were days when we ran low on water, if not completely dry but then a kind soul would offer us a drink, fill our bottles, and quench our thirst.

By week two, we had a rhythm. George had some minor issues with his feet. Unlike me who has feet equipped with callouses from my thousands of miles walked, George’s feet are soft like a baby’s butt. He had a few blisters to contend with, and spent a good amount of time lubing and prepping, before venturing out daily. Outside of that, he acquired his trail legs and we were making miles. This allowed us to spend more time in towns, meeting the locals, eating incredible food, and drinking like fish. After an undesirable night in a Hostel, sleeping in Bunk Beds next to a very sick person coughing all night, then having sex to ail his illness, the Baraga’s decided that private rooms were a better fit. I know, we are so particular, but this made a big difference in our nightly recovery.

Towns were our highlight only after the people we met. From our second day in Lisbon, meeting Rui our Tut-Tut Driver and Tour Guide, we realized that life, whether home or abroad, truly is about the relationships you have and share. From the Lithuanian Brothers, to Luisa from Spain, The Girls from Canada and all in between, we made friends that we will cherish.

George was the conduit in staying in touch with family and friends back home, and I thoroughly enjoyed meeting the Pilgrims along the way. It’s interesting how much we all have in common; the love we share for our home country and what is truly important at the end of this wild ride. When traveling, I have learned that almost anywhere you go, there will be people that will be embedded in your heart and soul. New and old, young and frail, yet each one has something that you will never forget. I can see the 87 year olds face who I talked with for maybe 5-10 minutes, just outside of Ansião. We laughed so much, and kept warning me of all the cars that were driving down the road. Honestly I couldn’t understand much of what she was saying and she probably felt the same. But we knew each others heart, and that is why we are placed on this earth! To love one another without words, and care about someone besides ourselves.

The weather is always a huge part of walking, hiking and the great outdoor experience. For me, the extreme heat in the first week was my biggest obstacle. I can always handle a little rain, well a deluge of rain, is what George would confess to. It was a bit crazy at times. Everything was soaked from head to toes and clear down to my underwear! That can get downright annoying but what I recall was sunshine in between the rainfall. It never got warm but the sun did shine for a moment or two, and that’s just enough time to change your attitude.

George Helping The Ladies off The Boat in a Downpour

When I look back on The Camiño, it will be the most memorable experience that I have ever had with my hubby and best friend. We laughed together, we had moments of frustration and irritation, but we seemed to balance it all out with a little port, some wine and a lot of beer. The food was different. I think we’ll both agree that the seafood was outstanding, the pork and chicken were much smaller and not injected with hormones, and tasted incredible. Anything on a grill was delicious. But our biggest disappointment would be the lack of a good juicy steak. We always try to have our final meal as a culinary experience, and Lisbon was no exception. But the steak that George ordered was thin, without any marbling and not what he expected. So after our lackluster final meal, we made our way to a swanky hotel and had after dinner drinks. That made up for it. I missed vegetables and my advice to vegetarian friends is I hope you like Potatoes, French Fries, Salad and Kale. That’s pretty much sums up your culinary choices in regards to vegetables. You definitely can make up for it in the fruits you can find.

But in the end, Portugal was a country that I would highly recommend. There was nowhere we went where we ever felt unsafe. In fact I left my iPhone at the Train Station and when I went back, it had been returned. The Safe Keeper of my phone was as happy as me, well maybe not quite as overjoyed and thankful that I was, but close.

George and I are already planning on another pilgrimage this Spring. Based on the weather we had, we decided Spring might be a better option with earlier rain lending to clearer days as we proceed to our ending point. At this time, we are considering the French Way which goes up and over the Pyrenees and continues westerly across Spain. We spent little time is Spain and this will give us a chance to explore that region and country.

George’s big takeaways include that he is much more capable than he originally thought! He was quite concerned about cramping, but not one single cramp, came his way. Maybe the combination of large quantities of water and electrolytes that he consumed, and building up his milage slowly, giving lots of time to recover and develop his strength, stamina and endurance. Also, George has become a believer in clothing and shoe choices. His Altras, which are a fine choice at home did not give him the support he needed on cobblestones, rocky surfaces and asphalted roadways. His socks could use an upgrade too, as far as I’m concerned. He had more than his fair share of blisters, and this slowed him down and knocked him off trail for a day or two. But he was quite impressed with his Outdoor Research (OR) Rain Jacket that is ultralight, yet served him well in the many rainstorms we endured. His last piece of advise is get a good-fitting backpack. Both George and I used Decathlon 40 Liter Packs. Unfortunately for George and his large chest, it never did fit him right. He Gerry-Rigged it the best he could with cushion and foam tape but in the end, he would’ve been much better wearing a heavier pack that had a better fit! So George will be researching shoes, maybe socks and backpacks. And hopefully, he will wear them during his training sessions before we heads back to the ultimate training grounds of The Camiño.

Until then, we will be walking the trails of Auburn and maybe venturing out to the coastline and exploring the endless paths that we have in Northern California. If I learned anything at all during this journey, it is to never ever give up or stop pestering the people you love. I have been George’s #1 Fan and now I have a partner that truly understands my passion and love for the great outdoors. And I think he actually enjoys being outside too!

For now, I will be hunkering down and spending time with my family and friends. It has been a long five months away from my home base, and all I want to do is stay put. Wanderlust or not, this explorer is ready is call it a day. May you love the place you call home and the people you surround yourself with. For in the end, it’s not where we’ve been but who we’ve been with! Much love to each and everyone of you…

Day 28: November 1, 23’ All Saints Day- Santiago 23.9 Km; Total: 309.3Mi

November 2, 2023November 2, 2023 / Kelly Hikes / 11 Comments

Oh my goodness. We did it! Well let’s not get ahead of ourselves. My hiking partner has not been feeling 100% the last couple of days. There definitely is a bug circling camp because I’ve heard of a few Pilgrims that are down for the count. I’m too mean and awry to get any virus taking hold of me, but George is much nicer so they flock towards him.

Our plan was to be up and out by 8am. Well we made it at 830am and I was mighty happy with that. It wasn’t going to be a Blue Bird day today so I struggled, huffed and puffed and finally got my pack cover on. Somehow my pack cover is the wrong size. It came with the pack so it’s not like I bought the wrong size. But during the putting together of pack and cover, the wrong sized cover was placed inside my pack. Every time I need to place it over my pack, there is a lot of language that isn’t appropriate. It’s a chore beyond chores! Today was the last time this girl will struggle with her itty bitty teeny tiny pack cover!

We had fifteen miles to cover with uphill climbs. I knew it was going to be a push for my sick partner, so I wanted to give us plenty of time. We headed out and within a few minutes, we saw our first Pilgrims. Rosemary and Joe from Canada were in front of us. We talked and they asked if we saw all the flowers on the graves yesterday? I commented that I did. In fact, when I made it into town yesterday, I could smell the flowers. Each graveside had huge bouquets on them. So what’s that all about?

Each Graveside Was Adorned with Bouquets of Flowers

All Saints’ Day, is also called All Hallows’ Day, Hallowmas, or Feast of All Saints. In the Christian Church, it is a day commemorating all the saints of the church, both known and unknown, who have attained heaven. It is celebrated on November 1 in the Western Churches and on the first Sunday after Pentecost in the Eastern Churches. In Roman Catholicism, the feast is usually a holy day of obligation. Here in Spain, it is a National Holiday and families and friends pay respect to the dead by adoring their gravesides with flowers and reefs. It is quite revered by the Spanish Catholics. Each place we passed had hundreds of flowers atop of each grave. It was quite a beautiful scene to behold.

Even the Cat Was Perched Atop A Graveside- Wonder if That Was His Owner

No wonder there were no cars or people on the streets this morning. We couldn’t understand where everyone was?! I had a friend Marilyn who commented on my blog. She asked why there were hardly any cars or people in my pictures? I told her I usually crop them out to make the picture look less cluttered. But today, I needed no cropping because no one was mulling around.

We walked on the highway for the first 5-6 miles. We actually could’ve followed the Portuguese Way but I was trying to take a few shortcuts so George wouldn’t have to walk so far. He wants so much to finish this out strong but doesn’t have the energy this morning.

We found a Cafe and stopped for our morning espresso. That should help. We stayed for a bit, saw a few pilgrims, rested up, then hit the trail. I moved us off the highway as it was so loud and I really wanted our final day to be something special.

Once back on the country roads, it quieted down. The trail was devoid of traffic and it was, in fact, The Camiño. We ran into the Mother & Daughter Duo from Czech-Republic. They were also attempting to do the last fifteen miles today. I think most everyone wanted to finish before the big bad wind storm showed up. The News from smarty pants “Alexa” warned of a severe wind event coming to Santiago this evening. Bring it on! We have seen it all so a wind event is nothing the Baraga’s can’t handle. Words I soon will eat!

The last ten miles were a series of mostly ups. Santiago I found, is on top of a hill. It is the highest point at 886’ on the Portuguese Coastal Route. So we started our climb. George has been doing the climbs quite well and is like the little Choo-Choo Train that could. Most of our hills were through old towns with few people. I’m not sure but being “All Saints Day” there’s a good chance everyone’s at church.

We kept seeing signs for “Pilgrims Meals”. It would be our lunch stop. Four kilometers to go, then after an hour, we had one long kilometer to the O’ Camino Restaurant. We headed a bit off the trail and landed at the best place on the Portuguese Way of the Camino.

O’ Camino is decorated so well. It has full maps on the walls with every Camino laid out. The wall next to where George and I sat was the Portuguese Way, which was the highlight of this Restaurant being that’s the route in which it resides on. I started to get so emotional seeing how far we had gone, especially for George. This has been an incredible experience for the both of us, and the longest distance that George has ever undergone. Let’s be real, this is the only long distance hike he’s ever done and to think he walked over 300 miles! That’s something I’ll never forget. Way to go George!

We had the nicest waitress. I asked her what their specialty is and she went right to the Pilgrims Meal. Galician Soup and Sea Bass. Bam, that’s exactly what I want. George decided on something he knew he couldn’t go wrong with. A Burger and Fries. The soup was the best I’ve had. Galician Soup is a Chicken Broth with Greens, typically kale and white potatoes. It was so good. I asked our gal if they had Tabasco, which no one ever offers. Oh yes, she tells me. She tells me she’s Mexican and brings three kinds of Tabasco. Bless your heart. I love this woman!

We stayed for a good hour or so but finally needed to make our way to Santiago. We were 8.5 kilometers away, with mostly ups and a little down. George and I headed back onto our route and planned to finish what we started. After four weeks and 28 days, and not a lot of time off since Porto, I was ready to see the Church.

The wind came in a bit earlier than expected and the rain was wet. I guess that’s what rain is, wet! We ran into Rosemary and Joe and walked with them into the City. At this point, we veered off to our Hotel for the evening. I was soaked to the bone, George was sick and we both wanted to get to our room, remove our packs and get some dry clothes on.

After taking a long hot bath, and both of us changing into something dry, we headed to the Cathedral. We brought our umbrellas because it was raining. Imagine that? There are so many gift shops along the way. George loves shopping and he is on the hunt for a tiled Scalloped Shell that he can put on our Mailbox back at home. I am on the hunt for Santiago de Compostela and that’s all that is on my mind right now.

We headed down a narrow street, and run into a couple of the Pilgrims that we have been walking with for the past week. We congratulate one another and continue up to the church. It’s windy and wet but that’s not going to damper my enthusiasm. At last, after walking over 300 miles we have arrived.

There’s only a handful of people here with the miserable weather but we are going to celebrate! We look for the Pilgrims Office, which we find out has closed. Tomorrow we will be back for our Compostela. We both inflate our umbrellas and run to find a Restaurant, both to eat and take cover.

Our celebratory meal includes pizza, salad and George had Chinese Rolls. I drank two glasses of Sangria and George had coffee. I think we both were exhausted and just elated to know our Pilgrimage is complete.

There will be much reflection in the days to come. We will partake in the Pilgrims Mass and ride a Bus, not walk, to Finisterre. I will finish this off for the day but there will be more of the Adventures of the Baraga’s to come. Until we meet again, continue to stretch your imagination, do what you think you cannot achieve and thank God for all he has provided!

Only God truly knows what we are capable of doing, physically, mentally and spiritually. Thank you Lord for always being my strength! And number one Cheerleader!

Day 27: October 31, 23’ Caldas de Reis – Padron 18.4 Km; Total: 294.5 Mi

November 1, 2023November 1, 2023 / Kelly Hikes / 5 Comments

Another great night of sleep. I’m back into a rhythm of wonderful restful sleep. George, not as much. Poor guy woke up this morning and was feeling under the weather. Good thing we have a short day. We packed and headed out for a short 12 miles.

Today was the first day that I didn’t put on my pack cover! It was blue skies and I surely didn’t want to think anything negative. Placing a pack cover on a dry pack with blue skies is just absurd.

The morning was cool and great temperature for walking. The town was a flurry of motorized vehicles and kids walking to school. I saw a ton of Piligrinos walking on the trail today. More than even yesterday.

The trail was nice. No big grades, just comfortable ups and downs. There was a cafe around the five kilometer mark. I stopped for my morning espresso. But was I ever surprised when they had a traditional American Breakfast. Bacon, Eggs, Sausage and Coffee. You got to be kidding me. Yes please! The breakfast came and sure as they advertised there was all that they said but the sausage was, well, a hot dog! I was laughing when I saw it but ate it up. The eggs were so fresh with yolks that were bright orange. It was so dang good!

I was talking with George about this gal that we saw the last couple of days. Most the pilgrim’s we’ve been walking around are new to the trail. But this one blonde, I could swear we saw her back on day one or two. I struck up a conversation with her and sure as I speculated, I met her on Day Two. Delphine is from Paris but lives in Barcelona. She likes sunshine and says it’s too cold in France. We walked most the morning together. She too, is not feeling so well. There must be a bug going around.

Today was the first day in over a week that we didn’t have a drop of rain. I think it’s because I didn’t put my pack cover on! I just might keep it off till we make our way to Santiago. Less than 25 kilometers and we will be singing praises!

Our day had one big hill climb but in reality, it’s really not much. I’m going to guess it may have been 800’ more or less with the ups and downs. In my mind, a climb is 2500-4000 feet, anything less than that is a bump in the road. But when this is all you’ve done, then yes, anything over a few hundred meters is a climb. Many pilgrims were stopping and taking breaks along the way. That’s the best part of the Camino. There’s always a bench, a cafe or a place to gather yourself.

Our Mega Hill Climb Up & Over Santa Marina of Carracedo

I haven’t spoke of the Pilgrim Patrol. They are Officers who watch out for Pilgrims. I noticed them much more when the weather is foul. They patrol up and down the pathways looking for anyone who might need some extra help, a ride or first aid. Delphine and I were talking when they drove up from behind us. It was such a narrow road and they barely fit their Jeep on this washed out road, but there they were. We scooted to the side as they slowly passed us. As we came around the corner, their patrol vehicle was stopped. A tree had fallen and some rocks were strung across the narrow road. They were moving everything off the trail. Delphine speaks three languages, French, Spanish and English. She started talking with the Officers and before I knew, I was getting my picture with them. Bravo Delphine. She’s a good gal to be walking with!

I had scored us a nice apartment in Padron and typical checkin is 3pm. Upon contacting the owner, they told me the place was clean and ready. We arrived by 2pm. Another incredible location and nice spot to lay our heads. The best part is the washer and dryer. George and I haven’t done laundry for a week. The issue is we only have one outfit that we hike in, and another for after hours, so laundry is quite important.

We stripped and everything we owned was in the washer! Yeah, we will be smelling fresh and clean when we arrive to Santiago tomorrow! Yep, you read that correct. After four weeks of walking the Camino, the Baraga’s will be finishing their pilgrimage.

George and I talked a bit about how we feel regarding this walk. It has been monumental in the fact that it is something we shared as a couple. I don’t think it will truly set in until we arrive at the Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela. But it’s feeling pretty great right now. I am so impressed with what George has done in these past four weeks. From the moment we exited the plane in Lisbon, he has been on his feet, doing countless miles day after day. I finally have the hiking partner that I’ve been dreaming of. My prayers were answered once again. Thanks God!

I didn’t know that Halloween is a worldwide holiday?! George and I went out to grab a bite to eat. Kids are walking around with faces painted and going from store to store, asking for candy. They don’t have the elaborate costumes that I see in the states, but a lot of make-up. It seems that this weird tradition is here to stay.

We are going to bed early tonight. Our plan is to get up earlier and be on our way by 8am. I know, that’s not early but the sun will just be rising by then. Our final walk into a place that we have been dreaming of for the past five years. Until tomorrow, have a sunshine filled day. We sure did.

kellyhikes4god

Spreading Gods love on the trail