I love weather guessers! They want to expound on doom and gloom, but rarely is that really the story. Granite, we had some crazy downpours last night. And again this morning. But once again, we were all cuddled up in the confines of our 3-4 Star Accommodations. I’m sorry, but seriously, nothing is going to happen to us. Now if I was in my tent, that would be a completely different story. But I’m not on the Appalachian Trail! I’m on the Camiño where life is as good as it gets.

We made coffee. Well in reality, George made coffee and I posted the blog. We packed up, grab two apples for the road, and headed out the door. First stop was the Farmacia for Vitamin I as I affectionally call Ibuprofen. It’s what keeps us moving without screaming. This go around, we bought two boxes. Enough to keep us going for the upcoming days on the trail.

The rain was relentless and our umbrellas were deployed. As we headed out, we saw many pilgrims. I must admit, Pilgrims are hardcore and weather does not scare them one iota. We saw no less than 15-20 others that weee braving the elements. No one was taking a taxi or a bus! They were all walking and pretty darn joyful! No complaining!

We had a variety of terrain today from city streets, to rural roads and dirt parts. I think this is one of the best aspects of the Camiño. If you don’t like asphalt, no problem. Because in a kilometer or two, you’ll be on a dirt trail. Oh you don’t like dirt trails, it’s okay because up ahead is cobble stones. It’s such a variety of surfaces we walk on.

Just before noon, we found an Albergue that had a stupendous cafe and diner. George and I were famished as we didn’t have a proper dinner the night before and only had an apple for breakfast. It was amazing we made it this far! Funny, we have more than our fair share of fat to burn! And fat we burned all the way to San Amaro.

I had a Spanish Omelet which is primarily eggs with potatoes and George had a Sandwich with Jamon. After that I had traditional Galicia Soup made from Kale and Potatoes in a Chicken Brith. And George had his Espresso with an Almond Tart. We were filled to the brim and ready to get back on the trail.

It was raining off and on, but we finally experienced our first hail storm in Spain. I didn’t realize it was that cold but evidently it was. Little baby ice started falling from the sky. Oh my goodness! It didn’t last long, but long enough to know that we just walked through a hail storm.

We managed to bust out ten or so miles before we walked into another cafe. You might think, wow George and Kelly are frequent flyers to Cafes. Well, you would be right but so are all the other Pilgrims. We kept on seeing the same 15-20 Pilgrims and we all were stopping at every possible place that had something to eat or drink. Especially with todays weather phenomenons, we all required some extra fuel and nourishment.

George was moving good today. No really complaints besides the usual, are we there yet? His foot was sore from his big bad blister that seems to be spreading like Poison Oak. It started as one blister, then grew another head on it, and yet another toe. It’s the craziest thing I’ve ever witnessed. Poor guy. It’s gotta hurt. No I promise not to post a picture of his ugly foot.

With less than a couple of miles, the skies cleared up enough that we dropped our jackets. It was downright warm outside. We met a sweet Border Collie along the way. She so reminded me of our dog Zoey. She was playing with us and I indulged. I started running up and down the fence with her. She was herding me the best she could with a fence separating the two of us. It was the first time this past month that I was truly huffing and puffing. Leave it to a dog to wear me out!

We made it to Casa Herreira in Caldas de Reis. it’s a small town with lots of farmlands and beautiful churches. The big deal here in a town of less than 10,000 people are the thermal baths that have been known for their healing powers. George and I must check these out! Healing sounds right up our alley.

We made it into our digs for the night. The owner and operator met us at the door and showed us around. There’s a lovely patio in the back with comfy furniture and a refrigerator filled with many adult beverages. All for your enjoyment. You got to be kidding me, plus all the tea and coffee one could ask for.

We were escorted to our room for the night. It was on the second floor with a spectacular view of the garden below and the hills in the background. I think we’ll stay for awhile. We went downstairs and partook in the beverages. No one else was there, so we had the place to ourselves. This is incredible.

I headed upstairs, showered and prepared for a night on the town. After George cleaned up, we walked into the Town Center. We shopped a bit for tomorrow’s provisions, went to the bakery and filled up on some much needed dessert. Then walked across the street for dinner. George had pork and I had lamb. Poor little lamb gave his leg for me. It sure was delicious. No dessert, nor espresso. We were done for the night.

As we left, luckily we had our umbrellas because it was coming down. We hightailed back to our lovely home away from home, and called it a night.

I haven’t mentioned this but we are closing in on Santiago. We had been planning all along to be there by November 1st and if all goes well, our plan will materialize. Tomorrow will be an easier day but come Wednesday, it’ll be a push. The way I look at it, we should work hard on our final day. George may not like that plan but he’s definitely able to do it.

As I reflect on this day, I can’t help to think of my dear friend Pam. She would be celebrating her 71st birthday today. Last year, she went home to Jesus and is truly missed by many. Especially me. I’m so grateful that she knew Jesus and is with Him today. Happy Birthday Pam. I miss you dearly.

We landed an extra hour of sleep without doing anything special! I love when the clocks fall back. Earlier sunrises with more daylight to walk. That only works if we get up earlier.

But the best part about this morning was blue skies. It was cold and brisk, but there was no rain, only a rainbow! I was praising the Lord.

George and I walked out of town and we met many new Pilgrims on the way. It was a gorgeous route this morning. We were in rural towns, with lots of gardens and terraces. Something we keep noticing in Galicia Spain are these raised concrete silos. Some are quite ornate, decorated with crosses and adorned with engravings.

We talked with Noah, a fellow Pilgrim from Spain. He gave us the story behind these. They are a specific type of granary in Galicia called Horreo’s. It is constructed for agricultural use intended to dry, cure and store corn and other cereals before shelling and grinding them. It is typically constructed of granite, oblong and narrow in shape, with permeable storage chamber. It allows the passage of air, and is separated from the ground to prevent the entry of moisture and animals. It appears that most families and farmers have one. They are much to be admired and appreciated.

After walking for a couple of hours, we found a cafe. Thank goodness because instant 3-1 Coffee isn’t really coffee! We walked inside and they were serving honest to goodness breakfast. Or at least that’s what we thought. On the menu there were Omlettes, with Jamon, Queso, Tortilla, and an array of goodies. I ordered Jamon for George and I, the Tortilla. We both received sandwiches, one with Jamon and the other, potatoes. We ate it up and then promptly left to get back on the trail.

Once outside, I went across the street to take a photo and George carried on, up the path. As I crossed back, the gal from the Restaurant was standing outside. She was speaking in Spanish which I wasn’t understanding, but just smiled at her. She kept talking when I realized, we never paid our bill. My bad! Oh my gosh, now I understand why she’s so upset. I apologized emphatically. I am so sorry. That’s the last thing I do is dine and dash! I paid our bill and gave her a hefty tip. How embarrassing.

I can guarantee you, that won’t happen again. I beat feet to catch up with George. He was a bit ahead of me, but we had some climbing to do. I caught up within a few minutes and all was good. Lucas, is Polish but lives in Germany caught up too. He walked with us for a bit. Lucas started his Camino in Porto. It amazes me the people we are meeting from all over the world.

We headed into Arcade, and passed an Albergue. There must’ve been ten Pilgrims sitting around. Not a big deal but the fact that I had never seen them before. Being we are 100 kilometers from Santiago, there’s tons of people that are beginning their pilgrimage today. It’s so exciting that we’ll be walking with so many new people.

One of the issues that I’m dealing with is no clean clothes due to the off and on rain. Usually we would wash in the sink, then hang outside, but it’s too wet and cold to dry anything. But then, we see this Laundry and Fountain in the Town Square. It is a typical example of Galician popular architecture. It is formed by combination of a laundry (a rectangular roofed structure where clothes are washed), a fountain (a construction with a spout for the water to exit) and a pool (a reservoir where water is stored for irrigation). If only I knew, I could’ve done my laundry here.

The history behind these Water Features: The traditional Galician society lived before running water in houses, and the invention of washing machines. You can see the good use of water and it’s distribution between water to drink, to wash and to irrigate the land. It was also a meeting place for woman. This was a place and time where women were responsible for the laundry. Being outside of the home, they could speak freely without the presence of men. Wow, we’ve come a long ways!

Today we had two big hills to get up and over. With one down, we started up and over Chachiero. Being today was Sunday, hunting season was in full swing. Dogs were barking and then we saw them. There were three bloodhounds running up the hill, on the hunt for wild pigs. There were signs cautioning pilgrims but we never saw any wild pigs or boars. I’m sure them pigs know it’s hunting season and are hiding out.

With a few miles left and our hills climbed, we stopped at a Cafe-Bar. I had packed out sandwiches so we ordered espresso and French Fries. Then the rain started. Thank goodness we were sitting inside. God’s perfect timing. Somehow we had escaped the crazy downpour. Once it stopped, we braved the outdoors again.

I hobbled into Ponteverde. Not sure what happened but all of a sudden my knee was not cooperating. George gave me his walking sticks and for the following two miles, I was moving slow, slower than slow. It wasn’t like I twisted my knee or banged it on some unsuspecting rock. I haven’t fallen so what just happened is quite perplexing. Whatever it was, as quickly as it came, it left. Thank you Lord!

After stopping for a very expensive bowl of soup, we packed up and walked our final steps to Ponteverde. This city of Ponteverde is an important stopover on the Portuguese Way. As we found our way, we saw The Church of the Pilgrim Virgin. It is circular in shape and has a floor plan in the shape of a scallop shell. Also the medieval Burgo Bridge has scallop shells sculpted in its’ arches. The scallop shell is quite prominent throughout this city.

Once we found our room for the night, we hunkered down and never left. My knee is better, George’s feet are healing and sometimes you just need to take a night off. Good thing because we just had a major downpour that flooded the street below us. Thank goodness, we had the sense, and exhaustion, to know when to stay indoors. And tonight is that kind of night.

George woke me up this morning. I was sleeping so soundly. That doesn’t happen often so when it does, I’m grateful that I had such deep slumber.

It was after 7am. Good thing we turn our clocks back tonight. At least the sun will come up earlier. We seem to be getting into town at a reasonable time, between 3-4pm. So if we get up and out an hour earlier, wow we could be in town by 2-3pm. We’ll see how it all pans out.

The weather has been cooperating for the most part. A few early morning sprinkles, then nothing till the end of the day. Yeah for us and all the Pilgrims out there.

We had a climb out of the City of Vigo today. At first we were in the city so all we could see where the tall buildings and some beautifully painted murals. I sent one to my friend Judi asking her how in the heck they painted such a mural? She explained that they use lifts and window watching scaffolding and paint away. These murals are on buildings that are 15-20 stories tall. That’s a lot of paint!

Once we made it out of the city and up on the hillside, the scenery was outstanding. Both George and I weren’t making much headway because we were stopping and gawking at the views. I stopped and talked with a local. She wanted to know where we started, how many days we’ve been on the trail and when we will get to Santiago? All good questions. I did my best to answer her in Spanish. She nodded and bid us farewell.

What I didn’t expect was a Pikgrim Stamp from the cutest 8 year old named Nadia. She had a fruit stand set up in her garage and lured in Pilgrims with the coveted stamp for their Passport. I was caught, hook, line and sinker. She stamped and dated our books and then we bit. How much for the mandarins and a banana? $5 later we had our Passports stamped and were eating the most expensive fruit I’ve bought on the trail. I’m sure it’s going to a good cause and it made her smile.

About mid-day, we came across the biggest waterfall I’ve seen on the Camino. With all the rains of the past week, it was flowing and spilling over. George and I stopped, unloaded our packs and I started making us lunch.

Our Swiss friend Richard showed up with a couple from Canada, Rosemary and NedJoe. Richard bought a new pair of high top water resistant leather boots. The European’s like their leather boots. They just can’t imagine wearing TrailRunners on the Camino. To each their own. What works for one, might not work for another but he was thrilled with his new shoes. And honestly, that’s all that matters.

The three continued on as George and I stayed and had our lunch. It was good as we had added a few tasty morsels we acquired from breakfast this morning. It was scrumptious and gave us the motivation we needed to finish off our daily walkabout.

We had followed a plateau for many miles which abruptly halted and started a steep decline. George’s knees were screaming as were mine. It was extremely steep for the Coastal Route. I was a bit surprised. By the time we arrived in Rendodela, all I could think about was Beer and Coffee. We found a local Sports Bar that was filled with people watching soccer. Perfect. We hung out for an hour, ran into Richard and another Pilgrim. There’s only one way to get to town, so you always run into people, time and time again.

We finished and walked the last half a mile to our destination. Our studio apartment was near the San Simon Cove, just a few blocks off the Camino. There’s a couple of nice restaurants nearby so I walked into the Traditional Tapas Restaurant. I asked the waiter when they open for dinner? 8pm. I’d like to have dinner tonight. Do you have a reservation? No but I can make one? Sure, what time? 8pm please for two. And that’s how we roll in Spain.

What I’ve learned is that Spaniards are a bit more literal than the Portuguese. The Portuguese love to stop and chat. They are welcoming and it’s hard to leave. The Spaniards seem to be a bit more reserved. Once you get them to open up, they are quite generous. Take for instance our room last night. There was no chance that I paid for the room we received. But George and I show up, we talked for awhile with the gal behind the desk, tell her about our day and how happy we are to be at her Hotel. Laura then proceeds to give us a huge upgrade. That’s the generosity we have experienced, over and over again. You just can’t help falling in love with these people. Oh the sweet life we are experiencing.

George crashed out this afternoon. We showed up to our apartment, he took a shower, sat on the couch and he’s was out like a light. I think about our children we’ve had, and how we wear them out so they fall asleep. George is no different. He’s just a big kid, playing so hard and by the end of the day, he’s exhausted! And that’s a good thing. But I will wake him up for dinner.

After the brief rainstorm, we walked down for dinner. It was traditional Spanish Cuisine. George had steak with french fries and I had Hake Fish with french fries and a huge salad we share. Good protein and great company. The place started filling up by 8:30pm and George and I walked back after the rain fizzled out. Just another day on the Camino.

Our Loft was such a sweet find. After our stay-at-home dinner, we had a little Tawny Port and easily went to sleep. The morning came quickly, and we made some home brew. With full fat creamer and sweet butter, it was better than ever. This is Blue’s kind of Coffee!

The sun was shining and the skies were perfect for a morning stroll, or an entire day of walking. Anyway you slice it, the sunlight was a welcome addition to our Camino. In fact, we didn’t get any rain to speak of today. What a blessing that was!

We followed the coast for miles. The Coastal Way is a non official alternative. It starts in Ramallosa on the promenade and continues along the sandy areas of Praia América and Panxón towards Patos beach with Monteferro on the left. After passing Patos, we leave the coast and climb to Saians where this route meets the oficial one. And that pretty much sums up the day.

There were long sandy beaches, people out walking, and a wind surfer which I watched for close to an hour as we traversed the coastline. He looked like he was having a blast, flying through the air, being drug across the water and popping in and out of the water. I’d love to give that a try!

We found a great cafe to partake in our morning ritual of espresso and croissant. I’ve become a fan of fresh squeezed orange juice but they only had Peach Juice. I’ll give that a try. It was great. I typically have a small 16 ounce plastic water bottle I carry in my skirt pocket and mix that with 1/2 juice, 1/2 water for my first drink of the day. Now I’m a fan of Peach Juice too.

We headed up the hill into a superb. There was a few beaches that hailed Surf Lessons here. This was the best area hands down that we’ve seen for surfing. The beaches were clear of jagged rocks, big plus for surfers, and the waves were rolling in sets of 2-3 waves at a time. Another plus.

As we rounded a corner, there must’ve been 15-20 people on the sidewalk above the coast. And 6-8 people in wheelchairs with some using braces like crutches. They were giving them lessons and planned to take each one out on boards. How cool was this! It always amazes me what people are willing to do to teach others to overcome. It made me smile as I passed them. What a great day they are going to have!

There were a few places that we walked today where the trail made us walk on the beach. It was a good thing that the tide was so low, and possibly a minus tide because you could definitely see that when the tide is up, it could’ve been a wet walk! There was one place where we were pretty close to the water just trying to make it to the other end of the beach. Nothing but excitement on the Camino.

We headed back up some 500’ above Sea Level to find the road. The Camino has a way of covering all aspects of the area that you are walking through. Before we knew it, we were back on a major roadway looking for a place to eat. I found us a Gas Station and bought ham, cheese, bread and cookies. Good balanced diet and then we seated ourselves on a strip of grass and ate our makeshift lunch. It wasn’t our best meal to date. Being today was a heavy milage day, it got us nourished and back on the trail fairly quickly.

As we headed back down the highway, I heard Bon Camino. There were four bicyclists that were carrying other passengers on the front of their bikes. They had these special equipped bicycles that could propel the front passenger without any help. They appeared to be unable to ride themselves but with the help of a friend or parent, they were doing their own version of the Camino. What an inspiration! Bon Camino and hope to see you in Santiago.

Such a great day we had. As the afternoon wore on, I looked to see how much further we had. Six miles to go to our Hotel in Vigo. Rather than staying along the coastline, I found a sneaky shortcut that led us on the trail along the river’s edge. Ends up that back in the day, it was the original route so it wasn’t too far off from where Pilgrims have walked. We made good time and around 3pm we arrived in Vigo.

Vigo is a huge industrial city. It is also one of the biggest Galician City in Spain. Vigo, with one of the best harbours in Europe, is a port of call for transatlantic shipping and is also Spain’s most important fishing port, known for freezing and canning. Shipbuilding, metallurgical, electrical, automotive, and chemical industries are associated with the harbour. Needless to say, it is a huge export of sardines and many kinds of fish especially shark and hake.

Once we climbed our last hill of the day, we saw something I’ve never seen before, outside an airport. It was a People Mover Conveyor Belt. Bummer, we were going downhill as it only transported uphill walkers. I almost felt like turning around just so I could use it but we’d already had more than enough miles for the day.

A couple of gals that we have been tagging along with, the Canadians Barbara and Daffoni, recommended the Hotel Zenit to us. I love tips on places to stay and restaurants to eat at, so I bit. Oh my gosh, once again the Baraga’s are living large! If anyone ever decides to come to Vigo, you must stay at the Zemit Hotel and stay in Room 901. It is spectacular. The view from our balcony is something from the Desperate Housewives of Spain.

We checked out the sights of Vigo. The area we are staying in is what I would call The Rodeo Drive of Galicia. All the high end shops, clothing, purses, perfumes, children’s toys, furnishings, if you need it, they have it! We found a Cafe and partook in our afternoon ritual of Beer first, then Espresso. I’m having to change my order up to Beer then Herbal Tea. Any Espresso or caffeinated beverage after 2-3pm, I’m up past midnight!

We walked around for a couple of hours because we haven’t walked enough already. That just shocks me that George is onboard with all this walking. By the days end, we have walked around 17 miles, and some 2000’ elevation. Way to go George!

We headed back to our Hotel and ran into Daffoni. Her and Barb had just arrived. They took a wrong turn and ended up on a side excursion that took them way off course. We all met for dinner and talked about our Camino’s. They planned everything ahead of time, locations, hotels and transports for their backpacks.

I really wish they wouldn’t had said that because I’m sure George wheels are turning. He’s wondering why on God’s green earth are we carrying our packs? Well, because we can. That’s why. And we will. Ends up George is appreciating his backpack more and more these days. He says it’s actually helping his back pain and believes that his posture has improved. Hmm, then that’s a good thing and our backpacks will stay on us and not in some random strangers car, bring lugged from place to place. That is just not a good life for something as near and dear as our big ole’ backpacks.

It’s raining. And it’s dark. Goodness gracious, we have concerns here in Spain. But the good news is we only have eleven miles to walk today. And hardly any elevation. We had breakfast with our Swiss friend Richard. He decided to take a taxi, to get some new Gortex Shoes before heading back out in the rain. Not a bad plan. I’m using plastic bags to keep my feet relatively dry.

We ate breakfast and packed our lunch. A roll with meat and cheese, a pear and a little biscuit-like cookie. That’ll hold us over. George found some olives in a bag at the Super Mercado so we are covered. Once our backpacks were loaded, we headed outside.

Yep, it’s still raining. But not a crazy downpour and pleasant enough to use our umbrellas. I must say that my umbrella is the most used piece of equipment. I would never leave home without it. I’ve used it to block the sun when it was 90 degrees and it’s the next best invention since airplanes. Or sliced bread. Or down pillows. You get the gist! I love my umbrella.

George and I decided to stay on the road today. With all the water flowing from the mountains, it’s just darn right silly to try anything else but the road. It’s paved, bright yellow so easy to follow and it’s flat. We can see the ocean, and definitely hear it. The surf is crashing and pounding on the rocks below us. At times it seems to want to splash up by where we are walking, but that’s another 30 feet. If the waves make it up here, we have bigger problems!

We saw quite a few other crazy Pilgrims walking the Camino in the rain today. I think once you resign yourself to this journey, no amount of rain or snow or ice or heat is going to stop you. Even George is moving down the road without much thought of the weather any longer.

There was an obvious route that would take us up and over the mountain. We considered it because it would save us miles. As soon as we crossed the road and went off the road and onto the trail, it was a No-Go. The water was flowing down the trail like days back on the Appalachian Trail. George definitely was not trail worthy for this off-shoot and honestly, I was happy to turn around and do the extra bonus miles. This kept us out of the mud, muck and rock. We headed back to the road and followed the coastline for the remainder of the day. From the looks of it, everyone else did the same except for the Canadians. They ventured up and over the mountain and made it down alive.

Lighthouses. I have an issue with the way they place them here on the Atlantic. On the West Coast, lighthouses are strategically placed to guide boats and ships into safe harbors. At least that’s what I recall. Here in Spain, and Portugal, lighthouses are up on the hillsides and mountainsides, near the coastline. If I was depending on sailing into a harbor, I’d end up in a hundred pieces, sinking in the Atlantic. This Lighthouse was some 500’ above the ocean breakers, and miles from any safe harbor. I just don’t get it? Maybe someone can give me some insight on why they place lighthouses where they do, because I’m thoroughly confused.

After a few hours of rain and mist, we came around a corner and saw Baiona. This city has a population of 14,000 however with tourism in the summer, the city swells to over 45,000 daily. Also the Portuguese Coastal Way goes directly through Baiona and over 30,000 pilgrims walk this way yearly.

The news of the New World – 1 March 1493

The most remarkable date in the history of Baiona is the 1st of March, 1493: that day the Caravel Pinta arrived in the port commanded by Martín Alonso Pinzón and navigated by Diego Sarmiento –a local sailor. Baiona became the first European place to know about the discovery of the New World – America. The Pinta was the fastest ship of Columbus’s fleet and was sent back to Spain to bring the news. A replica of the Pinta is docked at the municipal pier in Baiona and is now part of the local museum.

I love this place. First of all, the sky cleared up and the sun came out. That’s a super great start. It is over-the-top gorgeous with a protective coastline and islands that surround it. It has a bay that reminds me of Monterey, as it forms almost a u-shape shoreline, with colorful stucco homes dotting the beaches.

I found a great little bar and bistro. We stopped for lunch and had a burger, fries and a beer for $9 Euros. More to love about Baiona. I may never leave this place!

Around 4pm, we finally found our home for the night. This was a find on AirB&B. I guess everyone else loves this place so there was nothing suitable for the Baraga’s on Booking.com. But we have a Loft Apartment that is close to town and next to the river. It’s close enough to the trail so another good find.

We unloaded our packs, George took a shower and I relaxed for a bit. Then we hit the town. George was on the hunt for some new bandaid that our friend Sheila turned him onto. He looked in the Market but evidently they don’t have these special bandaids. You can only find them at the Farmacia. I tell you, these pharmacy’s around here have a monopoly on certain items. Sure enough, there was a rack of Compeed Bandages. I had no idea but they are the Cats Meow for blisters and anything that needs a little TLC. George bought an assortment that should last him the rest of our stay on the Camino.

We stopped at a local bar, surprise-surprise and had a Beer. Then hit the SuperMercado and proceeded to have our first meal of the trip at home. Squash Soup, Pasta Salad with Arugula and toasted Sweet Buttered Bread. Nothing too extravaganza, but all that we craved. There is something quite nice about eating in our own little abode.

With the weather systems that have come and gone, we have not had a day that the sun didn’t come out for a moment or two. Whether we have rainy mornings with sunshine in the afternoon or vice-versa, it’s been easy to tolerate when you get a chance of clear or even partly clear skies. And it sure makes for pretty sunsets. So thank you Lord, for blessing us with only 50% chance of rain because we all know that also means 50% chance of sunshine!

Sometimes you just need to know when to lay low. After yesterdays Foresthill March in the rain, I suggested that George should take a Zero. His feet were bothering him and he started walking oddly. What do you think about relaxing for the day, taking a taxi to our next destination and letting me slackpack? After much deliberation, George agreed that this was a solid plan.

We headed downstairs for breakfast. These Hotels serve a darn good and hearty breakfast. There’s never a lack of meats, cheeses, pastries, yogurts with toppings, coffee, juice and more. Every place is a bit different but I have never walked away unsatisfied.

I made my way back to the room, packed up my daypack and left my big ole’ backpack downstairs. George will transport it to the next hotel and I can be free to walk without a burden on my back. The weather was a bit funky but no rain, as of yet. I headed out and followed the coastline.

While I was walking, George was interviewing the hotel staff. There were two stone cutouts that he was looking at. The clerk explained to him that when the Convent was here in the beginning of time, 16th Century, these two turnstiles were used as Baby Drop-Offs. Say what? Parents would anonymously place their unwanted infant or toddler in this Lazy-Susan type of device, and would turn it. The Monks would then raise the infant or child as their own. It must’ve worked as this was done every so often. When you think about it, to a point this still happens today. There are Baby Drop-Offs at Fire Stations and Hospitals, saving lives. Hard to believe, but true.

As I walked along the shore, I saw many locals walking their four-legged companions. Zoey would’ve loved this kind of walking minus the rain. There was tons of murals and various art along the way. So colorful and quite tastefully done.

I made my way to the end of the point, and saw a stone statue. It appeared to be Half Pilgrim, Half Fisherman of the Sea. He was sitting, waiting and watching Pilgrims pass by. What a masterpiece he is.

The trail shot onto the road, and upward towards the highway. It was the first real climb I’ve had in a few days. There was another gal walking the Camino and I passed her, feeling a bit guilty. Without my backpack, I could head up the steep hill without gasping. We talked briefly and I continued onward.

Once I hit the highway, the rain came back. I had about an hour of reprieve so I was happy with that. It wasn’t the crazy downpour of yesterday, just a constant drip that made me wet down to my underwear. So I guess it’s more than a drip!

The Camino meandered back to a trail and took me through some farmlands and cattle fields. These were the first cows I had seen for over a week or two. But these were longhorns, real cattle, meant for eating. They were as wet as me but the difference is they didn’t care. I, on the other hand was looking for a place to get out of the weather.

I made my way through some very small villages, Area Grande and Portocelos, which had no services to speak of. I landed in the village of Oia and found a tiny Cafe. Perfect! I went in, soaked and dripping, but no one seemed to care. I ordered a double shot espresso and proceeded to linger for a bit. This is one of the best parts of walking the Camino. It never ceases to amaze me the Cafe’s that I can find along the way.

As I was finishing up my Espresso, a Swiss Pilgrim named Richard walks in. He’s as wet as I am. We strike up a conversation and I find out that he started in Lisbon, the same day George and I did. This was the first time I’ve met him. He’s not feeling 100% and was looking for a Hotel for the night. George had just sent me a picture of the Bathtub in our room. Richard was thrilled and was hoping for a room with a bathtub too. He called and sure enough, scored a room with a tub and we were on our way.

The rain was still coming down pretty good. Lucky for us, we had less than three miles to go. Richard wears leather boots while I wear trail runners. As we were walking the last miles together, I was submerging my feet in the puddles as my feet were already soaked. He tried, without much luck, to sidestep the puddles. At least with my shoes, they’ll dry out relatively quickly where Richards boots will be wet for days. He says he gets old newspapers, crumbles them up and shoves it inside his boots. It works for soaking up some of the moisture, but I’ll stick to drying my shoes out with a blow dryer. That works pretty good too.

We passed many more cows, horses and farmlands that lined the coastline. It would’ve been nice to see this on a sunny day but that wasn’t gonna happen. The walk went fast having someone to chat with. Richard and his wife walked the Camino a couple of years ago. They did the Norte Route which follows the northern shoreline of Spain. I believe it is one of the first routes of the Camino behind the Primitivo Route. He said it was quite difficult but had stunning views, yet much more primitive than the Portuguese Way.

Before I knew it, we had arrived at our Hotel for the evening. Hotel Glasgow is a nice place, smack dap in the middle of nowhere. There truly is not much out here. George was drinking coffee and had already lined up a dryer for me. They do not have a laundromat but they were willing to dry my clothes in their commercial dryer that they use for the linens. How nice is that.

I headed to the room, stripped off my soaking wet clothes and took a hot jacuzzi bath. Yep, that’s right. There is actually a jetted tub in our room. Some have wondered how I’ve found such nice accommodations? Even George has asked me how I was going to beat this?

There is an app called WisePilgrims. For a small fee of $4.99, you can download maps and all sorts of endless information regarding the circuit of trails. It has nearly all the routes of the Camino. Bookings.com must be in cahoots with WisePilgrims because each town, with accommodations, gives you the option to book a room. That’s when bookings.com opens up the wide array of rooms from Albergues, Hostels, Bed & Breakfasts and Hotels. Then you choose what accommodations you prefer.

I can say that all, but one, was as described on the site. Some are better than others but that is based mostly on price and location. I always read the reviews before selecting our home for the night. It’s been pretty simple, booking along the way. And I only book one night ahead. This gives George and I the ability to determine how far, or not as far, that we are willing to walk the following day. Easy Peasy!

Our Hotel tonight has a restaurant. Now that we are in Spain, our clock moved forward by an hour. Not such a big deal except for the fact that I really have no intention on walking in the dark. When I woke up this morning at 7am, it was pitch black outside. So no walking until 8:30 or later. The other thing is Spaniards eat dinner later than Portuguese. Restaurants don’t even open for supper until 8am. So starting later is the way that the Baraga’s will roll. Honestly it won’t be a big issue being we seldom were on the trail much earlier than 9am anyhow.

One last thing. I did a little bit of surgery on George’s foot this evening. He had a large blister that needed to be drained so I cut off his foot. It’s okay now being he has another foot. No, I didn’t do that but I poked it with a needle and clear fluid came out of it. No wonder he was hobbling around. He’s as good as new and should be flying down the trail tomorrow.

We plan to continue north on the Coastal Route and brave this rain. It doesn’t seem to want to let up anytime soon. I guess that’s part of this adventure and our Camino. As long as the Lord doesn’t have us building an Ark, we will be fine. Until tomorrow, may your days be filled with love and laughter, and a little bit of sunshine! Adios, from Spain.

Yesterday was too many miles. We tried but I think I beat up my partner in crime. He was licking his wounds this morning! So we have decided to stick with lower miles and not kill ourselves. Today was going to be a super wet day.

The best part was both of us woke up and agreed that we had the best night of sleep since we arrived! Maybe the milage wore us out or was it the fact, we actually somehow scored a King Size Bed. Most beds, if not all beds in Portugal are twin or full size. On a rare occasion we have had a queen Size Bed. But a King Size with two pillows each! That’s incredibly luxurious. No wonder it’s a Four Star Hotel. It earned every single one of those stars in my review.

We had a grand breakfast. Also included in the price of the room. After breakfast, we tackled the elements. For the first few kilometers, we had use of our umbrellas but once we ventured out from the protection of the buildings, we were doomed. Both umbrellas turned inside out and mine broke a spoke! Dang it, I love that umbrella. Be dammed, I’m gonna fix it with duct tape or some other material.

Between the sideways rain, and howling wind, we were soaked to the bone! I’ve heard the expression “sheets of rain” and today I can definitely say that I know what that means. As I looked out to the horizon, I could see what looked like a curtain of rain falling to the ground. It was a deluge of water, the most amount of rainfall that we have experienced on The Camino!

As we were walking through Moledo, a woman was coming out from a long driveway, her hands full with a big plastic bucket and a few lids. The wind ripped the lid off her pale, and luckily it landed in a puddle under her car. George to the rescue with his walking sticks. He walked across the road and managed to maneuver the lids close enough so he could retrieve them for her. She was so grateful, thanking him and praising his good deed. Then she offered us a ride. This is the part that truly shocked me. George said no. He was content with continuing our walk on a day like today, without bailing! Wow, he really is becoming the man I did not know I married! And so we continued, in the pouring rain.

We arrived to a town with a Cafe. Thank goodness. There were two Pilgrims leaving as we were headed inside. We swapped places, our wet backpacks in place of theirs. Espresso and croissants were waiting.

This was such a needed reprieve. We warmed up, dried off briefly and George visited the Water Closet (WC) a couple of times. The one thing I can say for Portugal is they have a wide variety of symbols and icons for WC. George pointed that out today, as he is sure that he’s visited every WC this side of Lisbon.

After our respite, we headed out to the cruel dark world again. It appeared that the weather was getting worse by the minute. The trees were howling and it was downright cold. George was limping a bit so no real speed was obtained today. We made it to Caminos where the Water Taxi would take us across to Spain. Rio Minho is the dividing line between Portugal and Spain. Much to our chagrin, the Water Taxi was out of commission. Now what? Being we were soaked to the core, a swim wouldn’t be out of the question. Luckily, there is another option. Jose has a motor boat and for 6 Euros, he’ll take you across to Spain.

There were three other gals that were ahead of us and we caught up with them. We all met at Jose’ Water Taxi, paid our way and headed to the dock. Jose walked in front, jumped in his boat that was filled with water, and started it up. He pulled the plugs and spun around the River a few times to bail the water out. Oh, this is going to be a fun ride.

Once he circled back, we loaded in one at a time. Then he gave us life jackets, as he said because the Policia requires them. He layed a rubber jacket over George and I as the rain was coming down so hard, he must’ve thought it would keep us warm. Then he sped off. The boat ride was, maybe five minutes and bless his heart that he was even running the boat at all. It was a hail force wind and rain like you would see in Seattle. I have been in a lot of weather in my lifetime, but this was about as bad as it gets!

We arrived on a sandy and wet beach. Jose jumped out of the boat and proceeded to help us one at a time. I landed first, with my feet in the water. No big deal being my feet and shoes were already soaked. George got out, then helped Jose with the other three ladies out. The mother of the two girls must’ve been in her 70’s. She was one tough cookie braving these elements. All 4’6” of her was pure grit and determination. Pilgrims, they are a different breed.

We made it to the Boardwalk and at this point the rain was fierce. All I could think about was moving, and moving fast. George was moving but not at the speed I was hoping for. I got ahead of him and found shelter under some Pine Trees. It looked like we might be getting a break in the storm. Thank God.

As we made it around the point, Punta dos Picos, I could see a slimmer of blue sky. The sun began to shine, the rain slowly stopped and I was one happy camper. We would survive to see another afternoon on the Camino. A bit over dramatic but it was touch and go for an hour or two.

As we made our way through the forest, there were odd symbols painted on the trees. Ends up these are Galicia markings symbolizing different religious traditions and rituals. They are quite beautiful and was our introduction to the way of the Spaniards. Much more to come on this front.

Once the sun came out and my body warmed up, I was much happier to walk at a slower pace. Our town for the night is A Guarda, a Spanish Seaside Village. As we rounded the corner, we could see the colorful landscape. It was much smaller than the town last night but was just as beautiful. No long Sandy beach but a rocky shoreline with a big rock jetty for boats to come to and fro.

We headed into town and found our home for the night. A 16th Century Convent that has been converted into a stunning hotel. Another incredible place to relax and regroup after a crazy day outside. We were escorted to our room with ocean views. Once again, the Camino has blessed us with more than ever. No bath, but one kick-butt shower with dual heads and room for two.

After we both got warmed up, it was time to find a laundry mat. Our clothes were wet and dirty, with no real options for hanging them to dry. We headed up the street and George, now able to speak the language, Spanish, he was able to get us where we needed to go. I loaded the washer and off we went to the Cafe-Bar across the street. It was Beet time and being we had a time change of one hour, it really was closer to 5pm. Not that it really makes any difference here. Let’s be real!

After laundry, we dropped off our clothes and headed to dinner. Another meal of nothing but fish, five kinds of fish from monk fish to swordfish to ray and two others that I don’t remember. But boy of boy, it was good eating! We polished it off with salad and espresso. And then we waddled back to our abode.

Well Lord, today was a tough day. For me, it was a head down, keep your hat on, kind of day. Even with George’s feet not 100%, he was the star of the day. He did what needed to be done, he was genuinely helpful and kind to perfect strangers and did it with a good attitude. And maybe even a smile too. That’s all you can ask for in a partner.

There are a few unspoken rules of engagement when it comes to life. If I’m having a bad day, you can’t. Only one person can have a bad day at a time. So George, thank you for letting me have my not-so-great day.

We did it. We woke up early and managed to get out the door before 8am, in the rain! I’m so proud of George. He really has come a long ways from being greener than green when it comes to backpacking, and now he’s charging out the door in a storm! Well, honestly neither one of us ran out the door, but we did what needed to be done. Rain or shine, we had some of our biggest miles ahead of us today.

We did a lot of road walking. We were a bit off the trail when we came in last night. But we planned that. However, knowing we’d have rain most of morning, it was more about getting back to the Camino the quickest way possible.

As we headed out of the Projects, as George called it, which wasn’t too far from the truth, kids were lined up for the Bus. No, we are not taking the Bus but the thought crossed my mind. We walked up and over the knoll, turned north onto the Main Street. We followed it for a good 3-4 miles before reconnecting onto the Camino.

George remarked that with the umbrella snd rain jacket, the rain wasn’t so bad. Who is this? My husband would never be caught dead outside in a rain storm. That’s what fireplaces are for, and warm houses. But here he was, with his umbrella, hat and rain jacket, in a downpour, not complaining. Well, only one complaint, wet shoes! I had the same complaint but I’ll never never ever wear Gortex on a trek. Unless I’m snowcamping or climbing a glacier.

We made it to a Cafe around 9:30am and had our double espresso and pastry. It was nice to shed, and get out of the rain for a bit. By the time we finished, the sky began to clear. We walked across the bridge to Viano do Castelo and praised the glorious sunshine. Yeah, the rest of the day was downright warm and sunny!

Pointe Eiffel and Viano do Castelo were quintessential European. They had the old architect, the colorful buildings, great cafes and people walking the streets. All the Store Owners were wiping down the tables and chairs, getting ready for the influx of people. Once the sun comes out, everyone sits outside and enjoys their espresso.

We made our way through the city streets. George stopped at the Pharmacy for Ibuprofen. I needed inserts for my trail runners. We were able to get both. Funny thing here in Portugal, you can’t buy Ibuprofen unless you shop at the pharmacy. They won’t sell it in the markets. From what we were told by Elizabeth, the government controls all over the counter meds. It’s nuts. A box of 20 tablets cost $7. But when you need an anti-inflammatory, you pay whatever price. George got his pills and my feet are happy with my new and improved footbeds.

The beach was our next stop. It was so different with the sun glistening over the ocean blue. We finished the day walking along the coast. There were a few inland passages but for the most part, we followed the coastline for the remainder of today.

This was a big day for George. We did close to 17 miles by the time it was done with a few breaks, a little beer and some pain meds. His knee is doing well but his feet are soft. I don’t think George has ever had a callous on his tender feet. Unlike me, my entire sole is one big callous, but my husbands foot is as soft as a newborn. This little walkabout is changing that. He is working on a few blisters which are now, turning to callouses. By the time we get to Santiago, his trail name will no longer be “Tenderfoot!” Or maybe he will just keep that.

Our last push was close to a mile walking on the sand towards Vila Praia de Ancora. We had been eyeing this town since noon in the very far distance, but now we could make out the buildings. There was one river crossing that George noticed, Rio Ancora. Good thing he saw this because I was barreling through without giving it a thought. There was a foot bridge that we headed towards, and before long, we made it to town.

Our nights lodging was another Four Star Hotel Meira. It was lovely. In town, close to all the provisions one needs and has a Bathtub! That’s worth another star in my book! Once settled in, I went straight for the tub. I so miss taking baths!

The gal at the Front Desk recommended an Italian Restaurant right down the street. That sounded perfect as the only thing close to Italian that we’ve had was Pizza. We both ordered Pasta, a nice bottle of Red from Douro River, salad and finished it up with Tiramisu and Cappuccino.

Ends up that this hotel also has a scale. Any guesses on how much weight George has lost? I have lost a whopping five pounds, or close to that, but my husband has somehow managed to drop twenty pounds! I can’t believe it! Way to go George! And with all that, to think this wasn’t a diet plan. That shows you what some walking can do for your waistline.

Tomorrow will be a couple of milestones. First thing, George will be a member of the 200 Mile Club! That’s a big flipping deal. Second accomplishment is we will be making our way into Spain. We have walked from Lisbon in southern part of Portugal to the northern most part of Portugal. And that’s pretty darn exciting.

Needless to say, this could not have been done without our Heavenly Father giving us the strength and desire to get up and walk day after day. Without His constant presence and guidance, we would not be where we are today. And that’s not just here on the Camino. We are blessed with each day, and never more. We have no idea what tomorrow will bring so living for the moments that are right here, right now is truly all we need. I cannot imagine what this journey will provide but I do know that the joy we have had, the love we have felt, the friends we have met, will be what we will cherish and remember for a lifetime.

After a night of feasting and playing pool, we slept like teenagers. No chance of getting up earlier than 7am. It’s a good thing we’re not staying in Albergues or Hostels because they would kick us out. Everyone is up at 6am and out the door by 7am. We finally packed up and made it to the Cafe by 8:00am. Just in time for the church crowd.

We had our typical double espresso with a shot of milk and croissants. It’s a jolt of caffeine and some carbs to get us moving in the morning. Today we had a calm cool day. No rain to speak of, literally no wind, just cloudy skies and perfect walking temperature.

The scenery was pleasant. Beach for the first few miles, then inland for most the day. Even though we are on the Coastal Route, it’s not all coastline. We headed to the base of the mountains and climbed a few bumps on the road. George broke out his hiking sticks and that seemed to power him up like a flying beast!

The villages were plentiful with lots of people milling around, bicyclists were, well biking, and we saw a couple of Pilgrims. In fact I saw my first family, Mom and Dad pushing a toddler along the Camino. In the States, I see a lot of families backpacking but not many Piligrinos with children.

The churches appear to be getting even more frequent, with each village having several. Some are newer but not like United States standards. So many were built in the 10-12th Century and the villages we are passing through have more modern churches built in 18-19th Century. They still have the same style, almost Mission-Style but with newer plaster.

We passed through many backyard gardens, with tons of squash and pumpkins. Of course kale and tomatoes were growing too. What was so beautiful today was the fact we were maybe 500’ above the ocean, with small mountains behind. The villages had gorgeous views of both ocean and mountains. It was quite a paradise in Belinho, Antes and Feital. All small villages but each had Cafes, Mercados (Family Markets) and some sort of hanging out spot. The Portuguese like to just sit and talk. And I think they love watching Pilgrims pass by. Buen Camino is the phrase they use to greet us. Have a good journey.

We stopped in a one-horse town of R.M. Rio de Moinhos. This has the first Biker Bar I’ve seen in Portugal. There was a sign for Pilgrim Stamps and I thought it was for this fine establishment called T.T. Bar. When I looked inside, all the guys were dressed in Leathers and didn’t appear to have a stamp for my Passport. I’m sure they could’ve devised one quickly but I figured I best not wait on that. I shuffled out the Bar Door and continued on.

We did make our way to a Delta Cafe and had our customary noontime hops with a bag of homemade potato chips. That carried us up and over the afternoon hill. We actually turned off the road and walked on a real dirt trail today. It was lined with pines and eucalyptus trees and the Rio Neive was flowing. There was a small waterfall and good amount of water that they constructed a rock bridge over the river crossing.

Once we made our crossing, we headed back west to the ocean. It was a bit of an off-shoot and no real trail markings to rely on. We meandered through a small town which looked abandoned but still had cats and dogs before making it back to the roadway. These villages always have some bit of charm to them, whether it is the homes that were built before time or the fact that Mother-Nature has reclaimed them. The amount of homes that have vines overtaking them surprises me.

Our feet finally landed back on the Coastline with no Boardwalk. This was purely compass-bearing walking. The town was north of us and the only thing separating us from Amorosa Beach was the beach itself. So off we went making our own trail.

This is what I’ve been waiting for. There was a creek that would eventually make its way to the ocean so as long as we stayed on the south side of it, we were good. Sure enough, we climbed up and over a few dunes and mounds of sand, and the big, not so blue, Atlantic Ocean, showed herself. It was a great ending to a perfect day.

We walked the beach for close to a mile before finding stairs that took us to the town of Amorosa . I think the stairs was the end of George’s day. That sealed the deal and it was time to get to our home for the night. Google Maps got us most of the way. This time we were only a quarter of a mile and we made a call to our host. She walked over to the Cafe and navigated us the last bit.

We settled in, unloaded our gear and prepared for a night on the town. Well there’s not much of a town but a square. Yet we landed on a great Seafood Place called Magma Caffe. It’s really part Wine Bar and part Seafood extravaganza. When we sat down, the waitress brought over two plates of appetizers and a bag of bread. I looked at George and thought if we eat this, why order dinner?

The waitress came back with some type of Pizza Appetizer and that’s when I explained to her that we didn’t order this. She promptly took everything away and we started over. Now we can order what we want. They had a Surf & Turf that sounded amazing. She asked me if it was for me or both of us? I’m thinking do I look like I can eat all of that myself? But then I am a big American and we are known for eating a lot. I tried my best to say that we would share the meal.

When it came, we could’ve shared the meal with a small army! It included a pound of mussels, pound of shrimp, sausages, meat, chicken, black beans & rice, potatoes and salad. Oh boy, good thing we saved our appetite because this will finish us off! It was scrumptious. No dessert tonight but we did follow it up with coffee and a Take-Away box, as they call it.

Thank goodness we had a bit of a walk back. Another outstanding meal. The Portuguese have food dialed up a notch over the Americans. And the price is within reach of most. Restaurants are typically full, at least by the time George and I are finished. We are typically the first to arrive for dinner around 7:30-8:00pm as most of the locals show up around 8:30-9:00pm. This works good for us since we don’t need to make reservations being most of the Portuguese are still walking to the Restaurant while we are eating dinner. It works well.

Tomorrow we will pickup the pace and attempt more like 15-16 miles, rather than 12-14. This means an alarm clock. Oh no! There’s a new sheriff in town and it’s time to get on the trail before nine! May the sweet Lord give us plenty of rest so we can wake-up refreshed and ready to hit the trail running! Well maybe just walking with a pep in our step!

First things first. I must apologize. I know I have been writing daily but somehow someway, my date is a day behind. I’m not sure where I messed up but as of today, I’m back on track. Today is Saturday, October 21st. And it is the 17th day of our journey, I think 🤔

Another raining day on the Camino. George and I had little miles to cover today. We didn’t set an alarm, which honestly, we typically don’t. We woke up when we woke up which was 7:30am. Not so bad being that breakfast isn’t served till 8am. We packed and headed down to the lobby, checked out and walked over to the breakfast hall. They had a great spread including scrambled eggs and some kind of boiled sausages. Not my thing, but I’m sure someone liked them. There was tons of fruit and yogurt. I ate to my hearts content and waited for the weather to change.

The weather guessers called for rain in the afternoon but here it was, early morning and it was already here. We dressed up like we were heading out to the Arctic Circle. Everything we had for cold weather gear was on our body’s. We are ready for whatever this day can bring!

Our first steps were finding the fastest route to the Boardwalk. Out the side door, over the slick ceramic tile, through the sand and back on the Boardwalk we went. There were many Pilgrims walking today. I guess they all decided rain or shine, here we come. And they came.

First we saw a couple of Bike-Packers heading southbound, which seems counterintuitive being it’s going away from Santiago. But maybe they have already been there and now they are riding home to South Africa. Long ways to ride. Hope the weather gets better!

As we walked through the ever-so small villages of Agucadoura and Apulia, we saw some familiar faces. Rudy, our German friend, who we met on Day One was walking with his friend Hochi, from Japan. They met seven years ago on the Camino and walk together almost yearly. We walked for a few miles until George and I stopped for lunch in Fao.

I’m sure you’re thinking these two stop and eat quite a bit. And you’d be right! Truly it’s a great way to break up the day, get out of the rain or heat or wind or whatever excuse we can find, to stop and eat. And while you eat, drinking must accompany your food. We found this little hole-in-the-wall place in the small tiny square. I walked in and knew immediately this is my kind of place. They had Dire Straits playing Money for Nothing with the entire playlist of nothing but, Dire Straits!

The Staff brought over a menu and I asked him what was a good recommendation. He went right to the hamburger which I knew George would like. I asked for fish or chicken. He said something in Portuguese like chicken and pointed at his biceps. Chicken arms? Oh Chicken Wings. Sure that’ll work. And two beers please. We are walking and need some extra hops and barley please.

When the Hamburger came out, George was amazed. It looked just like an American Burger, big and juicy. My Chicken Wings were great too. We devoured our food, and finished it up with espresso. Now we can venture back out. As soon as we got ready to walk out, the rain came back with a vengeance. Here we go again.

The walk out of town wasn’t too terribly wet, not until we crossed the River. Today was the first day I heard thunder. It was loud but no lightning. I believe the lightning stayed in the hills above us. This is another reason the Coastal Route is a better option right now. They are getting hammered in the mountains and on the Central Route. Tons of flooding, downed trees, mud and muck. And this girl has had her fill of mud and muck! No thank you Mother Nature!

Once we arrived in Esposende, we struck up a conversation with a couple of locals, George and Isabelle. We asked them about the bronze statue in the center of town. It is a tribute to the fishermen of the town, their hard labor and commitment to their families. It is truly a masterpiece of art. They escorted us to our home for the night, the RiverZenHouse. It’s a four bedroom house that evidently George and I are the sole occupants of tonight. Once we had our tour, Ana left us the keys and asked us to lock it up in the morning. There you have it.

We ran around like we owned the place. I guess we do for the night. I finally have a bathtub and George has a massage sprayer in the shower. This is living large. The balcony overlooks the River, which flows into the Atlantic. It’s a dreamy house.

I blogged for a bit while George took in the sights. We met back up and headed for dinner to O Baraco. Two separate people recommended the same place so that sealed the deal. Funny thing was they both pointed south to the Restaurant but Google Maps had me going north. What the heck is going on with this Mapquest. After walking one mile north, it took us to a nothing place, said we arrived and then had the audacity to ask me to rate its route finding! Well that is a big fat “F” in my book.

George was a bit perturbed, I was frustrated so we asked a couple of locals. They pointed south about two miles. Give me a break, really?!?! Yep, that’s where we started from. After an hour of going up and down and back up the street, we arrived. Luckily being only 7:45pm, everyone else in town were still enroute. We found a table and thanked the Lord for getting us here without Google maps. Once again, I’m not impressed with the piss poor directions of my app. Oh well, at least it didn’t pour on us as we were walking. We sat down and ordered dinner. It was good, not the best that we’ve ever had but we are full and content. Now we can return to our house and hunker down for the night. Before bed, George played a game of Pool. Yes, they have a Pool Table at the house. Pretty darn swanky.