Day 46: May 30, 2022 Zero Day in Damascus Elevation Profile +0/-0 Zero Miles; Total 470.7 Miles

Another Zero Day on trail. This time Blue and I are in Damascus known as Trail Town USA. It is a small town of 800 residents or so, but has the biggest heart of any place I’ve visited. The people here love hikers and it shows everywhere you go.

One of the Many Murals in Town

The one thing I am noticing as I trek through the east is these people love church. For such a small place, it is littered with churches. Almost at every street corner you’ll find a place to worship the Lord. Methodist, Lutheran, Baptist, just about any denomination, you’ll find your people! There is something special about a community that puts others first! They serve hikers who are grungy, typically low on cash, and smell pretty funky with such kindness. Blue and I stopped at virtually every shop in town and supported the economy.

Presbyterian Church of Damascus

Yesterday as we walked through town, Blue told our new friend Matt we would see him again. Will we really see him again? Well, when you are staying in a two-horse town, yep, you probably will run into each other again. As Blue and I were taking in the sights, Matt was with his friend Johanna at The Mill. I recognized him right away and we started chatting again. After a bit of time, Blue and I left and headed to Food City, the local grocery store. We bought some provisions for our upcoming week and walked to the park for a picnic. We soaked our feet in the icy cold river and headed back to our humble abode.

Damascus Old Mill

Before we made it back, we decided to stop at the Damascus Distillery. Of course we did! They distill Vodka, Gin, Bourbon and Rye Whiskey. Blue and I had a tough time deciding what alcohol we enjoyed most but I settled on Bourbon and Blue on Whiskey. Now we had to choose what drink we wanted??? Neither one of us are bonafide hardcore drinkers but I settled on Trail Magic and Blue on Whiskey Sour that had egg whites, blueberries and sour mix. It was all I could do to power down my drink. Ends up we both diluted it with more sour mix which made our alcoholic beverages more palatable We spent the afternoon sipping and laughing, and talking to the regulars. It was a great time.

Damascus Distillery

We stopped and visited a few local vendors and made our way back to Dancing Bear. At this point, the Bear was dancing! I sat on the front porch and guess who rides past on his bicycle, Matt. I wave and he turns around.

Beautiful Murals in Town

Matt and I sat and talked for quite sometime. It was as if God intended us to share our beliefs with one another. Our conversation surrounded what the Lord had planned for our lives. Why we were doing what we were doing and where the Lord was leading us. It was quite thought provoking and I truly felt our conversation was led by the Holy Spirit. There are times when I have no idea what to say but I just start sharing my heart. And at times, I wonder, where did that come from? Now I understand fully what the Lord had planned for me on the road to Damascus. It wasn’t about me at all, but it was an Devine appointment that the Lord had with Matt. I just so happened to be the messenger. And once again, I am the last one who knew. Trusting in God to open doors, is what this journey is all about.

Beaver Creek River in Damascus

Thank you for showing me what you needed me for. At times, I may be clueless to your intentions Lord, but I am a vessel that you can mold into whatever you need at the moment. Damascus will be etched into my being and this is a place where Jesus will meet you right where you are! What a special place it is indeed.

“And let us consider how we may spur one another on toward love and good deeds, not giving up meeting together, as some are in the habit of doing, but encouraging one another—and all the more as you see the Day approaching.”
‭‭Hebrews‬ ‭10:24-25‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 45: May 29, 2022 Low Gap to Damascus Elevation Profile +2322/-3998 17.1 Miles; Total 470.7 Miles

First things first. Happy Anniversary Blue. She arrived in US from Russia 20 years ago today. When you ask her where she’s from? She always says California but I was born in Russia. She is, most definitely, all American, red, white and blue!

Happy Anniversary Blue

It was a special morning as we were on the road to Damascus. All I could think about was Saul-Paul and his life-changing event that led him to be one of the most influential apostles in Christianity. I asked Jesus, how can you use me as I travel to Damascus?

Morning Sunrise from Low Gap

The sun rose and the skies were blue. That was a first for over a week. I left shortly after 6pm with Blue right behind me. The morning was brisk and the sun was bright! We made it to Low Gap Highway before 7am which set us up for fast miles early in the morning. On His Knees was also at the roadway and walked with us for a stretch of time. The trail was graded perfectly with little ups and little downs. We passed several tents that were undisturbed as hikers were still fast asleep.

Easy Ups & Downs

Our water supply was quite limited today. We dry camped last night and the only on-trail water was a slow flowing spring. I stopped to fill up as Blue continued. I called to her and explained this was the only water source for miles! She came back, smart woman, and we filled up our bladders. It was a scooping drill as the spring was underground and hard to capture. But it was cold, clear and our only source for the rest of the day. Well worth the extra effort.

One of the Oldest Shelter on AT Circa 1934

After getting our daily supply of water, we stopped at McQueens Knob Lean-2 built in 1934. It is billed as an emergency shelter only and sleeps two. This was most likely, one of the shelters Grandma Gatewood would’ve used when she hiked the AT back in 1955. She was the first woman to thru-hike the AT northbound and was considered a pioneer of her day. She hiked with a homemade knapsack, shower curtain for rain protection, no sleeping bag, some clothing and Ked Sneakers. She was 67 years old!

Grandma Gatewood

I received a text from Census last night. She had somehow forgot her tent poles at The Ruins near mile 465 and asked if I could look for them. That’s a big deal as I have done this before when I was traveling with my daughter in Patagonia. Tents are of no use without poles! We headed down trail and arrived around noon. No poles were found. I called her and looked some more, to no avail. Bummer, I can’t imagine anyone would need her poles without the tent to go with them. Ended up Census found a similar used tent at an Outfitters in Damascus and is back on trail. Blue and I had lunch and carried on.

Goodbye Tennessee – Hello Virginia

Just before arriving in Damascus, we crossed over into Virginia! Three states down and only eleven to go. How exciting is that? We took a celebratory photo and carried on. As we were getting into town, a Trail Runner stopped and talked with us. Matt loves to run and was training for a long distant run coming up. We hiked/ran all the way to town and were there in no time. He is a Christian and is looking for a change in scenery. Possibly Damascus is the town for him. He was thrilled to walk with us into town and pointed us to the trail.

Damascus – Trail Town USA

Damascus is one of the few places that the AT continues through the middle of town. We walked to our home for the night, Dancing Bear B&B. Elizabeth, the owner, showed us around, did our laundry and pointed us to the finer places to Dine in town. I think we will like it in Demascus!

Dancing Bear B&B in Demarcus

Today, I had expectations of something grand occurring. I’m on this journey with the Lord and we are hiking to Damascus. There are times that God is so subtle. He doesn’t always put the neon sign in front of me pointing me in one direction or the other. Sometimes I am directionless. But He always has a plan. I just need to be patient and wait. Blue and I were exhausted from our week of hiking. We had two of the biggest days of our hike to date and maybe I was just suppose to be refreshed. I am good with that. A shower, clean clothes, a fresh meal and a warm bed to sleep in is all I really needed. So here’s to Damascus! May we spend the next day getting to know you and reconnecting with trail friends we haven’t seen in awhile. No expectations required!

Blue with Matt in Damascus

“As he neared Damascus on his journey, suddenly a light from heaven flashed around him. He fell to the ground and heard a voice say to him, “Saul, Saul, why do you persecute me?” “Who are you, Lord?” Saul asked. “I am Jesus, whom you are persecuting,” he replied. “Now get up and go into the city, and you will be told what you must do.””
‭‭Acts‬ ‭9:3-6‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 44: May 28, 2022 N/Spring to Low Gap Elevation Profile +2910/-2644 17.1 Miles; Total 453.6 Miles

Blessings tenfold! This morning there was no rain. Just a low mist overhung our camping spot. It was, as if, I woke up inside a cloud. It was cool, a bit damp but the rain has pushed on. Praise the Lord! You have no idea how jubilant I am. Blue slept in a bit and I hit the trail eager to bust through spider webs! The first one on the trail gets to fight the entangled mess of webs that string across the trail. Nothing but Action Hero stuff as I kicked and karate chopped my way north this morning.

Morning Clouds Resting on our Camp

Within a few minutes, I made it to the first of three shelters that Blue and I would pass. Most the crew were still sleeping but Markee-Mark was awake. Wow GiGi you’re up early! I really wanted to get some miles in before noon, when my feet are happy and I have a song in my heart. I asked him to tell Blue I was pushing on to the next shelter, another seven miles up trail.

Early Morning Mist in the Trees

It was a peaceful morning. Outside of the hikers in the shelter, I saw no one else on the trail for a couple of hours. I continued to walk through the clouds on a high Ridgeline which gave me no views. The clouds encased me so nothing but the trees directly ahead or behind were visible. It is what makes the Appalachian Trail the ecosystem that it is. It’s either raining, about to rain or shrouded in clouds. Blue and I have it all figured out. Only when we go to town, does the sun comes out. Maybe we just need to stay in town more often?

Big White Flowers- ColdsFoot or Stinging Nettle?

Blue met me at Iron Mountain Shelter just in time for our morning tea. McGeiver was there eating breakfast and before long Siesta and Rushee arrived. We sat and shared stories and talked about town. That’s always a big topic on trail. Where are you staying in town and what are you going to eat? It’s funny but it always comes full circle to food. Our choices are so limited out here and all you really want is a big fat cheeseburger and fries! Well Blue probably is thinking something more Keto Friendly like a Salad with Pine Nuts. But I’m all about something good and juicy that is full of flavor and drips all over me!

Chicken Fried Tenders, Shrimp & Beer

Our plan today was to make up some miles so we could hike into Damascus tomorrow. We moved out and headed north to the next shelter for lunch. Before long, we were trekking through rich and lush forests with frogs jumping all around. The ground was wet, squishy and muddy. My shoes were soaked from the last days storms all the way through to my socks. My feet are starting to grow webs or at least fungus. It’s not pretty so I promise not to include a photo of my feet!

Muddy Trail

Blue stopped at Cross Mountain Hwy TN-91. There was a split rail wood fence, perfect for hanging our dew-soaked tents on. We ate lunch, dried our gear and met up with Siesta and Rushee. Siesta looks just like my son Brian. He is dark and handsome and has a smile that is so endearing. I sent Brian a picture of Siesta and he immediately said how good looking he was! That’s Brian for you! He doesn’t mince words at all.

Me with Siesta-My Son Brian’s Twin

After eating lunch and our drying event was complete, Blue and I were back at it again. The terrain was drastically different. It reminded me of something on The Camino de Santiago in France where you walk through fields of sunflowers and farmlands. It was so inviting from what we have been seeing of late. On my Knees caught up and we all walked together for a bit of time. He too was commenting on the ever changing environments we have experienced. Now we were hiking over fences and walking with cattle. And then, just like that, we were back in the wet forest again.

AT meets The Camino

Blue and I pushed on and made it fairly close to our goal. Today, Blue tapped out first. Her feet were tired and I too, was ready to take my shoes off. We nestled into some tall trees that were surrounded by low lying ground cover with two idyllic spots for our tents. The most wonderful thing happened as we pitched our tents. The sky cleared and we saw this big yellow ball in the sky. I think they call it Sun. Oh, how it feels so good right now to have sunshine on my tent! And so our day came to a close. No rain in the forecast and town in the horizon. It just doesn’t get any better than that.

Walking into Sunshine

There are prayers I pray, that I know, may not be of Gods will. But without asking and praying, we never know. I have been praying for a change in the weather. It seems like a big ask, but the Lord hears our cry’s, our pleas for change and just sometimes, I think He understands my limitations. I have to understand that where I physically am, is what it is, because of this constant rain. I want to be more accepting of it and need to learn what he is teaching me. Patience, perseverance, character, tolerance, maybe all of that and even more. But today, my Father in Heaven gave me a pass and I was able to bask in glorious sunshine. At the end of the day, my prayer was answered. I loved every single moment of it and thank you Jesus for hearing my prayer. What a marvelous God I serve!

“This is the confidence we have in approaching God: that if we ask anything according to his will, he hears us. And if we know that he hears us—whatever we ask—we know that we have what we asked of him.”
‭‭1 John‬ ‭5:14-15‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 43: May 27, 2022 Ponds Flat to N/Spring Elevation Profile +2622/-2829 11.0 Miles; Total 436.5 Miles

Another wet and stormy night. The rain was relentless, pounding our tents all night long. We were across the trail from the Ridgeline so added insult to injury. The wind was terrifying as I heard a tree come crashing down around midnight. Our saving grace; the wind did not reach us as we were shelter by enormous and well rooted trees. Our tents were strategically placed on high ground so we didn’t water flowing inside them. And our tents are bombproof! Well at least mine is. Blue said she had droplets dripping on her head throughout the night. That’s no bueno! Around 7am, the rain let up long enough for us to pack up and head off this mountain.

The Only Creature Around These Parts Who Enjoys the Endless Rain

We made it to the turnoff for Boots Off, a local hostel where most all the sane people stayed last night. We stopped, pulled out our soggy tents, rain gear and anything else that needed drying and used the glorious sunshine and a chain link fence to start the drying process. Another couple stopped and joined us. This little stop allowed us to carryon with about five pounds less water weight in our packs. Hallelujah! The little things that give me joy.

All Gear Dried and Packed

Our morning took us around Watauga Lake. It’s a pristine body of water that fisherman, jet skiers and boaters use alike. It was too cold, both outside temperature and water temp, for my liking to swim in, but I’m sure on a warm summer day, it is used by many. We followed the white blazes around the lake and through the forest. It was an easygoing walk and before we knew it, it was time for lunch.

Lake Watauga

We stopped just short of the Dam and ate our daily selection of Tuna, cheese-like crackers, sun-tea and a nutty bar. I think about the lack of calories I’m consuming for all the hardwork I’m doing. There’s no doubt I burning my excess blubber around my mid-section. Not all of it but enough to keep tightening my backpack waist belt. I wouldn’t choose hiking as a diet plan but if you thinking of loosing weight, this is a win-win. You get to see incredible places, eat pretty much whatever you want and get rained on regularly. What is there not to like?

Overlooking Spillway of Watauga Dam

After lunch, we walked across the Dam Road. It’s funny that no one seems to get all bent out of shape when you walk across Dam Roads around here. Back in California, they have armed guards and there’s no walking, hiking or boating within a few hundred yards! Here in Tennessee, no problem. The clouds started moving in and we all know what that means. Beat feet for suitable camping spots.

Watauga Lake & Pond Flats Mountain Our Prior Wet Campsite in Background

Blue and I started up our required climb and it felt like I had cement for legs. Yesterday, I was cruising up and down without any issues but today, no such thing was happening. I was beat tired. I figured that my lack of motivation was due to a sleepless night! The lack of rest did nothing for my recovery and my body was not having it. Our game plan was to make it to the Shelter for our final snack and carryon to the next tent site. But nope, nada, nilch, I wasn’t having it. I talked with Blue and explained my blight and she was feeling a bit sluggish too, but could push on if needed. We grabbed some water from the local watering spring and headed up towards the shelter. Just a mile up the trail, Blue found us a perfect little camp spot and we hunkered down. Thank goodness because as we were building our homes for the night, the wind kicked up and the skies poured down liquid water. And did it ever rain. I actually had to build a trench around my tent to keep the water at bay! When it rains around these parts, it is like Armageddon. There’s no tip toe through the raindrops, it’s all out war! We both made our homes and retreated for the night. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day full of rainbows and sunshine. I can only dream of such perfect conditions on this wet and ever-so rainy trail.

Blue Overlooking our Next Destination

As I think about today and the beauty, the mountains, the water, and even the rain, I realize that our Creator, the Lord on Most High, Jehovah, our One and Only God created all of this for us. There are times when I curse the rain, and get all uptight when it’s hot and humid (what I would give for some of that right now), but in honesty, I am unappreciative! This environment that I have the pleasure to walk through is not because of anything I did, but what He did for me! It is heavenly designed, and is His masterpiece. I cannot begin to wonder what this world would be like if I created it?! What a mess! So today I want to be more appreciative of what our God has done for me. What a beautiful and lovely place I am in. Rain, Sun, Moon and Stars. It is all because of Him. So thank you my Heavenly Father. It is absolutely and utterly lovely!

“He who forms the mountains, who creates the wind, and who reveals his thoughts to mankind, who turns dawn to darkness, and treads on the heights of the earth— the Lord God Almighty is his name.”
‭‭Amos‬ ‭4:13‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 42: May 26, 2022 Laurel to Ponds Flat Elevation Profile +4292/-3928 17.5 Miles; Total 425.5 Miles

We did it. Our highest mileage to date! We had a fairly early start at 6:30am and that made a huge difference! Sleeping next to the creek was nice, and no real condensation. I was pleasantly surprised.

Laurel Creek Campsite

The weather forecast is for rain the next few days. We wanted to get as many miles in before the impending doom was upon us. The morning was pretty easy. We stayed low and followed the creek most the morning. I’m not sure where everyone went, being we saw hardly no one on the trail. Maybe they all hunkered down in some unknown shelter or hostel. There were frogs and mushrooms, but outside of that, just Blue and I. We stopped briefly at Moreland Gap Shelter for hot tea and a morning snack. It was gonna be a cold day and it didn’t appear that the sun had any intentions of shining today.

Our Sad & Cold Faces in the Shelter

We started our climb after the shelter. As per Far Out, our navigational app, we were going to have views of Hump & Little Hump Mountain along with previous places we’ve come from. Surprise, surprise, the clouds moved in and our views were blocked by the big nasty storm headed our way.

Vista Overlook with Storm Enroute

Around 1pm, I mandated a snack break. I was cranky and hungry. Blue obliged but had her heart set on another Shelter for lunch. I promised we could stop there but I needed to eat if we planned to hike 17 plus miles today. Shortly, we entered Pond Mountain Wilderness. It had these beautiful slot canyons and lots of rocks that were chiseled into odd shaped stepping stones. We followed the canyon walls for a bit up time, climbed up above the river and suddenly dropped back down. The reward was a Cascading Waterfall that must’ve been 80-100’ tall. It sounded thunderous as the water was rushing over several layers of boulders. The last two days, we’ve seen numerous waterfalls.

Laurel Fork Falls

The trail was hard to follow and after dropping back into the canyon, it disappeared. No way, we didn’t go the wrong way again?? After checking our app, we were indeed, on track, but the trail was hidden on a rock wall. There was a narrow band of rocks that hug the canyon directly above the rushing river. At one point, I dropped my hiking pole and thought for sure it was going down river. I got down on my belly, and grabbed it before the pole floated downstream. I couldn’t imagine hiking this trail without my supersonic trekking poles!

Laurel Fork with AT on Rock Ledge

We stopped for lunch, and planned to finish up the day by climbing 2000’ up to Ponds Flat. The rain started and it hasn’t stopped. We did our last four miles with our umbrellas up and our heads down. We found a campsite just passed the flowing springs. We grabbed some water, pitched our tents and called it a day.

Many Bridges Crossed Today

I’m feeling good about our mileage and when I pulled up the elevation profile, I was shocked. I had no idea that we did what we did?!?! I suppose we finally got our trail legs and are destined for bigger miles. It’s been six weeks for me and four weeks for Blue. I’ve heard some hikers get in a grove within the first month while others it takes a couple of months. I am glad my feet have finally decided to get with the program and allowed me to do the miles without revolting! I know many times today I asked God if he could help me do these miles? It appears he answered my request and is giving me a nice foot massage while I get ready to sleep. With the faith that my sweet Lord has given me, I will continue on to the next destination. Thank you all for your continued prayers for health and safety, and for sharing God’s love along the way. They are being heard and are much appreciated.

Day 41: May 25, 2022 Mtn Harbour to Laurel Elevation Profile +2748/-2320 12.7 Miles; Total 408.0 Miles

Another yummy breakfast. The worst part was the fact that after eating all the amazing fat-laden food, I couldn’t just sit and be a “fat cat!” We had to leave our compound, our attic space and hit the trail! Around 10am, Blue and I reluctantly walked back to the AT.

The Resident 20 year old Barn Cat

Our game plan was to hike 15 miles a day for the next five days and that would get us to Damascus for dinner on Sunday. With the late start, our first day of 15’s fell short. So be it. It’ll all work out in the next few days. Our morning was nice. Good weather, perfect temperature of 70’s and no threatening rain. We jumped on the trail and went back into the forest.

Treehouse at Mountain Harbour Available for $70 per night

Easy miles came as we headed north. We exited the forest and started walking through extremely tall grasses. As we continued, there was a hidden sign that boasted of a Hostel ahead. Hmm, didn’t know there was one so close by, but we needed to log some miles. Blue was leading as I followed right behind, and we both missed the turnoff to the AT. We kept climbing uphill until we reached the top of a plateau when Blue realized we were temporarily misplaced! In other words, we were off trail. I was busy taking pictures and was oblivious to Map Reading 101. Yep, looked on my app and sure enough we were way off trail. I immediately realized our error back at the Hostel signage. I headed back down the wrong trail and sure as can be, the AT made a distinct right turn. If only I could log the extra credit miles, I’d be in Maine by now!

Great View from Wrong Trail

Back on trail, we left the tall grasses and went back into the woods. We climbed another hill, but this time it was the right one, and headed right back down. At the bottom, was the Issac Cemetery. It was one of the nicest, picturesque plots of land for laying your family to rest. Ends up that it is part of the Issac’s Family Parcel. If you desire to bury your family, you must ask one of the Board Members, and once they agree, $100 deposit will allow you to start digging. There were maybe 50-75 gravestones dating back to the late 1800’s. It appears that families like The Campbell’s, Issac’s, Elliot’s and Gilbert’s (my Mothers Maiden Namesake) are prime users of this cemetery. I find it so fascinating all the historical mentions along this trail. We spent quite sometime walking around and reading the tombstones.

Elliot Family Tombstone – In my Fathers House there are Many Mansions

Once leaving the Cemetery, we headed to Jones Falls. It’s a side trail that’ll take you pass a spring. The Falls is 100’ or more. There’s a rope that dangles from above and if you feel brazen enough, have at it and climb to the upper ledge. I was quite content soaking my feet and relaxing. Blue wanted more and felt compelled to take the challenge to rope climb. She made it to the ledge and on her way down, said my view from down below were better. Oh, sometimes wisdom is greater than valor. But I commend her for taking it on.

Jones Falls

Today was another milestone. I crossed over the 400 mile mark! I have so much further to go but every mile closer, sure keeps me motivated. Blue has done nearly all of those miles with me. She arrived on Mile 136.2 so she’s definitely a long distant hiker. And to think, Blue has never backpacked more than a couple of days prior to joining me. She’s a rockstar! And one heck of a backpacker too.

400 Miles plus Extra Credit Headed to Maine or Bust

There were some new faces on the trail. I first met Lenny who plays the ukulele. He was sitting by a tree as we headed up the trail this morning. Then came On My Knees who prays a lot and at times, he says he’s crawling to camp. I can totally relate to that. And then Pirate and Stormy who are a couple hiking together. There were plenty of day hikers and a few slack packers that we recognized from the hostel. This section is relatively easy and has some nice vistas with plenty of water. By late afternoon, Blue and I tapped out and found a nice campsite on Laurel Creek. Perfectly suited for our two tents. We arrived shortly after 5:30pm and started our evening chores of building our houses, fetching water, bathing at the creek (that’s an added bonus) and making dinner. It appears that we will have a nice evening without any invasions of water droplets on our tents. Well maybe a bit of condensation, but I’ll take that. Tomorrow, more miles!

Blue and I with On My Knees

“Trust in the Lord and do good; dwell in the land and enjoy safe pasture. Take delight in the Lord, and he will give you the desires of your heart.”
‭‭Psalms‬ ‭37:3-4‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 40: May 24, 2022 Mountain Harbour Elevation Profile +0/-0 Zero Miles; Total 395.3 Miles

I love Zero Days. Blue and I had no intentions of having a complete day of rest, but we sure enjoyed it. Funny thing is when you are hiking day in and day out, it’s easy to loose track of days, weeks and Holidays. This upcoming weekend is Memorial Day and Blue has her resupply box at the USPO. Problem is they are closed after 10am Saturday till Tuesday. So we need to slow down! Damascus is less than 75 miles and no point of running into town and sitting for days waiting for the post office to open. So here we stay on Our Zero Day at Roan, Virginia.

This is Where the Magic Happens Breakfast at Mountain Harbour

First things first, we had this incredibly delicious breakfast, that was literally, out of this world. It’s so beautifully presented that the designer of the meal talks about it as we are all salivating. We indeed, are hungry hikers! It’s all homemade from the biscuits and gravy, lemon tort, tomato basil pie, three different egg dishes including a soufflé, eggs with smoked bacon and sausage and cheesy eggs. There was the best French toast I’ve ever had with maple pecan crusted goodness, potatoes with you guessed it-more bacon, fresh fruit that was presented inside of a cored pineapple and the main course – smoked brisket that you can cut with a fork. There were pastries, muffins, and fried eggs that were actually candied. This breakfast deserves a Michelin Star! Oh my goodness, and you eat till it’s all gone. There were close to 30 of us there and we devoured it all.

The Spread – Michelin Star Breakfast

No slack packing, no chores to do, just rest and relaxation. Blue and I had resupply boxes sent up the road to Station 19 and I was preparing to get us a ride. But Blue being Blue, she wants to walk. We grabbed our empty daypacks and walked the road to pick up our boxes. I don’t like road walking, especially roads where cars, trucks and Semi’s have no regard for hikers on the shoulders. It’s, like I’ve said before, one of the scariest parts of hiking. But we made it unscathed, and arrived at Station 19. Gosh, I am glad we listened to the rest of the trail gossip and chose to stay where we did. It was deplorable! Downright dingy and not my cup of tea. Evidently Dave the Owner was nowhere to be found and Lisa, his co-hart in crime was out and about! So we waited. The Beer Delivery Truck showed up and as he was unloading, Lisa arrived. Problem was that she had no keys to open up the bar or the place where our boxes were stored. But she did offer us water and we waited for Dave. About 1/2 hour later Grumpy, not so nice Dave arrived, the boxes were located and we were on our way. Lisa offered us a ride, which was unexpected and I jumped on it. Me and Blue rode in the back end of her open air Jeep as she drove us back to Mountain Harbour.

Our Ride and Rufus The Welcoming Party Dog

Afterwards, we hung out, soaked our feet in the river and spent the rest of the day doing absolutely nothing! It was a most perfect Zero Day. I think of the first 40 Days & 40 Nights on this trail and am overwhelmed with emotions. It has been an incredible journey to date, and hard to even think of what’s to come. Honestly there is something beautiful about not knowing. Not knowing, not worrying not even planning where I will lay my head down to sleep. On trail hikers always ask, “Where are you camping tonight?” And my standard answer is, I don’t know-when I get tired, I’ll stop. God has provided me with a flat piece of ground to rest on virtually every night. Sometimes it’s dry and sometimes it’s not. But I never need to consume my day with these small details. And that allows me opportunity to be open to the Lords leading and his destination. The spreadsheet is gone, but the hope for God’s grace and new mercy’s is always better than a planned day of PUDS!

Soaking our Feet in the Cold Creek

“They are new every morning; great is your faithfulness. I say to myself, “The Lord is my portion; therefore I will wait for him.””
‭‭Lamentations‬ ‭3:23-24‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 39: May 23, 2022 Stan Murray to US19E Elevation Profile +1752/-4047 11.1 Miles; Total 395.3 Miles

I love rain! Lots of rain. Downpours and freezing rain. Rain that causes rivers to flow down the trail. That’s the kind of rain I walked in today. Last night I fell asleep, a little after 8pm. Yep, you read that right! I was literally exhausted and with all the laughing and yakking at the shelter, it didn’t keep me from snoozing in my cozy little tent. I was out like a light.

Early Morning Light Rain & Dew

What a day today was. I can say out of my thousands of miles underfoot, I have never ever hiked in such a torrential downpour like today! It didn’t start out that way. Last night around midnight, the light rain turned to heavy rain. Luckily my tent held up without any issues. The rain was off and on and when I woke up at 4:30am, the rain turned to a minimal drizzle. Yeah for me. I packed up, and Blue and I were on the trail by 6am.

First Climb over Little Hump

We had two Balds to climb, Little Hump and Hump Mountain. Little Hump was fairly easy going, even with the rain. The trail was muddy and slick and I took my first of two falls. The first, no big deal. I slipped on the mucky mud and sat down on nice pillowy ferns. All good. Only Blue saw me and no real damage besides my pride. We headed up Little Hump, stopped for a morning snack under some thorny trees. Then finished up our climb before the crazy rain showed up.

White Blaze Along the Trail

Then as we were walking through the natural covered arbor, the rain really came. We exited the arbor and up, up we went. Hump Mountain is exposed. No trees to protect us, just grassy fields. There were a few other hikers that passed us as they were headed to town, hoping to beat the impending rain system that was coming our way. Unfortunately, Blue and I are not the fastest hikers on the trail and we were caught in the midst of this pounding storm.

Approaching Hump Mountain

As we were climbing Hump Mountain, I saw BLT coming up the trail. I turned and asked him how he was doing? He said, not good. What’s up? And that opened up a long conversation of what he thought the trail was going to provide for him and what it didn’t. We talked for quite awhile, listening to his expectations and unmet desires. Yet, he mentioned what he did gain from the trail and how he felt healed from some past hurts. All this occurred in the midst of a rainy day on a hill that still needed to climb! Before he left to catch his Greyhound Bus back to New York, we hugged and I shared with him Psalm 91 Bookmark. I’m not sure how he received it but he did take it, and continued on his way. It’s always sad to see friends leave the trail but I feel that the Lord led me to witness to him. Even if I planted a seed, I believe someone will water it, and before you know it, BLT will know Jesus Christ.

BLT on Hump Mountain

As we headed up and over Hump Mountain, the skies opened up like never before. The trail was a river and Blue, bless her heart, was trying to keep her shoes dry. I had to laugh because there’s no way she’s gonna keep those pretty blue shoes clean.

River Flowing Over The Trail

We both were hungry but still had a few miles to go. We stopped at the North Carolina-Tennessee border. Goodbye NC! Two states down and 12 to go. Blue found a campsite that she felt would serve perfectly for a picnic in the rain! She cracks me up. There we were, me heating water for tea, and Blue taking shelter under a tree. We ate quickly with umbrellas donned, drinking hot tea. It was like no other picnic I’ve ever had. We picked up our soaking wet packs and continued on the trail.

Goodbye North Carolina

I think this rain was a tropical hurricane. It wasn’t warm but it wasn’t cold. Well, at least it wasn’t cold to me. Blue wouldn’t agree as she doesn’t have the body insulation that I do! After seven hours of skipping through rain puddles, slipping on slimy rocks and making our way, Roan was a welcome sight. We arrived at Mountain Harbour B&B after a short road walk.

Mountain Harbour B&B Top Left Window is our Room

Mountain Harbour has been the talk of the trail for the past week. It has been voted the best breakfast on the Appalachian Trail for 13 years! Breakfast, here we come, tomorrow. Blue and I have a private room that was most likely an attic conversation. We have both bumped our heads on the rafters more times than I can count, but we are warm and dry, and that is all that matters. What a nice reprieve from rain soaked tents and our wet clothes. All is good in our world.

Our Cozy Attic Space

I never know how God is going to dictate my day. Today, I could’ve never dreamed that I would be saying goodbye to a trail friend in the middle of a downpour, on the way up Hump Mountain. But our sweet Lord sure knew. How I love the way Jesus puts someone in our life, even if it’s just for a week or two. All I can do is pray that BLT will remember that he was loved, he was heard and he always has a place to come back to. I will miss you, Brave Little Toaster. May you find your way back to your people in Harlem. Until we meet again, Godspeed.

“Let your conversation be always full of grace, seasoned with salt, so that you may know how to answer everyone.”
‭‭Colossians‬ ‭4:6‬ NIV

Day 38: May 22, 2022 Clyde to Stan Murray Elevation Profile +3856/-3171 13.7 Miles; Total 384.2 Miles

We tried something new today. Get up at 5am and on trail by 6am. The sun is up so it’s not brutal, and the birds start chirping by 5:30am, so I’m already awake. But last night I had one of those sleepless nights. I don’t get why this happens? I’m pooped, exhausted, and have no energy to do much of anything but lie supine. And then, I toss and turn all night long. I finally took a Benadryl and slept for a few hours.

Path to the Light

Today was a big day. Blue and I climbed several notable peaks. Well I don’t think you can really call them peaks, let alone mountains. The Appalachian Mountains are not grand in scale, but they do boast many high points that are worthy of tackling. Little Rock Knob was our first climb. We winded through a Spruce Forest and came to a rock outcropping. We reached the viewpoint shortly after 8am and I think we were the first ones up to see it. No prize obtained, but noteworthy!

Overlook from Little Rock Knob

What goes up, must go down. So the 400’ climb was negated with a downhill slide of 800’ to Hughes Gap Road. What I haven’t mentioned is the countless property owners who either donated or sold their interests in their properties so that the Appalachian Trail could be constructed. The Hughes Family, owned this piece of property since 1868. It was pasted down from three generations, and now is preserved by the ATC.

Granite Tribute to The Hughes Family

After crossing the loose gravel Hughes Road, Blue and I started our ascent to Roan Mountain. It is over 6200’ and dominates the skyline. The trail is lined with both Red Spruce and Fraser Fir, which are considered some of the rarest ecosystems in the world. This is due to the cold and wet conditions found on these peaks. I can attest to that! Cold and wet followed by hot and humid. It is truly a masterpiece of relic forest that dates back hundreds, if not thousands of years.

Mushroom Fungi Growing on Downed Tree

When we reach the summit, there was a plateau that had yellow flowers, tall grasses and trees on the edges. We walked to the summit which used to boast the “Cloudland Hotel.” This resort, which is no longer in existence, catered to pleasure seekers from the city along with sufferers of hay fevers. The most interesting fact is the Hotel straddled the Tennessee – North Carolina line. In fact a stripe was painted through the middle of the dining room and down the length of the banquet table. This showed where guests could legally drink alcoholic beverages, and where they couldn’t. In Tennessee, it was legal to drink but North Carolina could not. There was legend that a North Carolina Sheriff named Ron Evans (I had too) lingered around the hotel, waiting to nab a drinker who steeped over the State Line with his drink! Dirty dog Sheriff, should’ve called the State Troopers!

Blue and I in front of the Foundation for Cloudland Hotel & Resort

After milling around on the summit for over an hour, we headed down towards Carvers Gap. The forecast was predicting thunderstorms, no way, and we still had three more Balds to tackle. Round Bald, Jane Bald and Grassy Ridge Bald are all above tree line and not a super great place to be when thunder and lightning roll in. These three Balds were positioned at the end of our hike day. Bad planning on my part! As we headed up Round Bald, the sky changed. We took a few pictures, pulled out our rain covers and opened the umbrellas. Just for clarification, these are hiking approved umbrellas and do not have metal parts. No conductors, however, if I’m the tallest thing on a Bald, then umbrella or not, I need to take cover.

Jane Bald is Behind Me & Blue We are standing atop Round Bald

Sure as predicted, the thunderstorms rolled in. I had been told about freezing rain but haven’t experienced that on the west coast. We have hail the size of golf balls but this is frozen rain drops that pellet you. It was cold and wet and we tried to get up and over both Balds before the lightning hit. Our timing was impeccable and we reached safety of the forest and headed down to our desired campsite.

In Step – Two Awesome Hikers Heading North

Today was a super day, not too hot and outside of the freezing rain, not too cold. We didn’t get all the miles we wanted but we sure had some incredible views and covered a lot of territory. The Appalachian Trail is wearing on me, in a good way. It seems the past week has been so diverse and opened my eyes to the incredible beauty of this place. I’m not a big fan of all the rain but I guess, that’s what makes it so intensely different from the West Coast, strictly speaking California. I don’t think I’d ever move here, but I do enjoy spending this time walking its mountains. There is something mesmerizing about this terrain, forests, plant-life, and weather. At least for now, I’ll embrace what it gives me and be thankful for each day I can walk this trail.

In the Fraser Fir & Red Spruce Forest

“He has shown you, O mortal, what is good. And what does the Lord require of you? To act justly and to love mercy and to walk humbly with your God.”
‭‭Micah‬ ‭6:8‬ ‭NIV

Day 37: May 21, 2022 Beauty to Clyde Smith Elevation Profile +3678/-3379 15.6 Miles; Total 370.5 Miles

I loved our private cabin. There is something marvelous about a good nights sleep. I laid down at 9pm and didn’t budge till early this morning. Never heard any drag racing, train whistles, snoring or coughing. It was perfect uninterrupted sleep.

Uncle Johnny’s Tribute Wall

At 7:30am sharp, Shuttle Driver John drove us up to Beauty Gap, exactly where we hiked from yesterday. All footsteps linked and we are heading north today. It was pretty warm when we left and I have adjusted my wardrobe. Tank Top, Skirt, and my Prayer Bandana to keep the sweat out of my eyes. Shoes, Toe Socks and I’m ready to fly down the trail. Well, honestly I don’t fly but more like mosey along. That’s a bit slower!

White Lily Looking Plants

Once we were delivered onto the trail, we headed up towards Unaka Mountain. It was a beautiful hike this morning through Red Spruce Trees. A Bird Watcher was telling me about the Kite Birds that live in these trees. They are the bird that chirp, chirp, chirps all day long. This trail has an incredible amount of birds that are ever-so-noisy. It is rare that you’ll be hiking without some bird singing it’s lungs out. Many of these tweeters are ground dwellers. They hop along the ground rather than fly. I know they can fly because they have wings, but they’re just lazy hoppers!

From Unaka Mountain Ridge

Blue and I stopped at Cherry Gap Shelter for snacks and water. We are getting to be Water Snobs. Our bottles were filled up at Johnny’s Hostel from the tap in the outdoor kitchen. Well, the water we get from the trail comes straight from an underground spring and it’s the best tasting water I’ve ever had. Both Blue and I promptly emptied our water bottles and filled up from the gushing spring. What a difference. The water is cold, clear and has no chlorine, fluoride or any other additives that the government seems to think is good for us. It is Living Water that the good Lord made. And it’s perfectly suited for me.

Hikers at Cherry Gap Shelter

While we were eating, many of the hikers we had passed yesterday when we were headed southbound, were also arriving. There was talk about slackers and now it seems, the bug is catching on. Many others are talking about slack packing options that are coming up. There’s many reasons to do it but the best reason, I think, is you get a day off of carrying your pack. if you’re injured but still want to make up some miles, it’s a great way to stay on trail. My trail friend of mine, Hot Minute, has a bad back, is recovering from COVID and wanted to slack pack with us yesterday. Now it seems like it’s going to be a thing. I’m good with it. As long as my miles are covered, then let’s keep this train rolling down the trail.

Me with Hot Minute – Another Slacker

The humidity came back, imagine that, but nothing like yesterday. The temperature was much lower so that helped. As I continued on, the Nuts Family showed up. They were in good spirits laughing and kicking rocks down the trail. I’m so impressed that this family of six have the fortitude to keep moving north. I have a hard time motivating myself let alone four kids. The youngest boy Donut, tripped and did a face plant right in front of me. Dad swooped him up, Donut laughed it off and they were up and moving down the trail. I’d still be back there nursing my wounds!

The Nuts Family-All Nuts In a Row

By afternoon, the thunderclouds started talking and rain came down. Blue and I were headed up our last climb, Iron Mountain when lightning was flashing before us. Oh no, we need to move and move fast. I love the thunder around here. It’s seriously loud, rolling thunder that gets your attention. The lightning didn’t appear too close and we had so many trees around, the chances of anything getting us was slim to none. We had no Balds to go over, so we were in good shape. The biggest damper to our party was that stealth camping on the ridge was not an option. We headed down the trail and decided to hunker down at Clyde Smith Shelter. There were plenty of flattish spots to make our home for the night and there is safety in numbers. We walked into camp, fairly dry being both Blue and I have umbrellas. We are definitely the envy of this trail!

Heading over Iron Mountain

I have been trying to figure out my plan of attack regarding this humidity. The fact is I didn’t ask God what I needed to do? Obviously he had it all planned out. Just as I start sweating and being one hot mess, God produces Thunderstorms and takes care of me. Of course he does! Nothing to concern myself about, at least not today. And isn’t that all he ask of us? Concern yourself only for today because you have no idea what tomorrow will bring. Thank you sweet Jesus for covering me in your perfect plan. Much better than me trying to figure it all out!

Orange Newt Lizard

“Let us then approach God’s throne of grace with confidence, so that we may receive mercy and find grace to help us in our time of need.”
‭‭Hebrews‬ ‭4:16‬ NIV