So…I’m not sure what happened last night but I barely slept a wink. Being pitched on the front lawn of the Hostel, I heard Drag Racers going up and down the roadway till midnight. I didn’t realize that was a thing in Erwin! Once that stopped, a hammock hiker was coughing obsessively throughout the night. I’m glad I wasn’t in a Bunkhouse with him. It was tough enough being within 20’ of his constant hacking. Hopefully he is feeling better today. Finally at 4am, the Amtrak Train came through town and blows its whistle so anyone within 20 miles hears it. Needless to say, I may have slept an hour or two. Looking forward to being in a Private Room tonight. Just me and Blue.

Good news, I slacked pack today. Shuttle Driver John picked us up in his personal vehicle and drove Blue and I, along with two other gals to the top of the mountain. We arrived at 8am and headed southbound. That was different hiking the wrong way. Within a mile or two, we made it to Beauty Spot Bald which was lovely. It’s accessible by roadway so there were a lot of car campers and day hikers in the area.

Today was so much fun. With the fact that Blue and I took a couple of days off when we went to Asheville, and the event of Trail Days in Damascus, we missed quite a few of our trail friends. Today we caught up with a ton of missing friends. It took us all day to hike 10 miles because I had to stop and talk to everyone I saw along the trail.

Slack packing is revered as a day off of sorts, but with miles under foot. Instead of carrying my 25 plus pound backpack, I only have a day back that weighs, um, two pounds of less. I had some snacks, a liter of water, first aid kit and water purifier. That’s about it. I felt so light on my feet and the miles were easy peasy. Yet, as the day continued, the humidity returned! It is something to be reckoned with. I’m still trying to figure out what my best course of action is regarding this villain.

By afternoon, Blue and I arrived back to the Hostel. I planned on mailing some gear home like my 10 degree sleeping quilt, down pants, long pants and long sleeve shirt and a few other non-essential items. Anything that’ll lighten my load and keep me from expending extra energy. Blue did the same. Hopefully winter is gone for a couple of months, and I won’t regret my choice.

After sorting through all my gear, I took another shower. Two showers in two days. What a luxury! I washed my hair and wore my loaner clothes. Then washed my stinky clothes one last time. It probably doesn’t really matter as deep embedded stink is hard to remove. But it makes me feel better and it smells good for a few minutes or so.

Tomorrow we will be back to donning our full packs and humping the trail. Weather is suppose to change back to afternoon thunderstorms which honestly, I can live with. Maybe the rain will cool things down a bit. Today was over 90 degrees with a lot of humidity. In California it gets hot but it’s a dry heat. Now I truly understand what that really means. You don’t walk outside and feel like you’re in a wet sauna! I’m not sure how much of this I can take? Maybe I’ll get used to it or maybe I’ll just bring a portable fan with me! Anyway you slice it, it’s here to stay. One more thing to wrap my head around. Give me mercy Lord, this is tough stuff!

We had a little visitor last night. No, it wasn’t a bear but very loud thunder and lightning storms with a smidgen of rain. Before we turned in, Blue said she heard thunder. No way, it was just a jet. Well, she was spot on. Whistling Gap was the hub of activity last night. We had close to ten tents and some of them didn’t arrive until dark. I was sleeping by then but when I woke up, there they were. Tent City in our backyard.

I was up at my normal time but Blue was a bit behind schedule. I think the heat from yesterday took a toll on her too. I slipped out and took a little detour up Spy Rock. It was approximately 1/2 mile from camp and off of a spur trail. Being I had a little extra time to burn, before Blue caught up, I took in the sight. I dropped my pack at the base of the route, and made the arduous climb up rocks chiseled into steps. At the top was a slot rock that you squeeze through and it opens up to this gorgeous sandstone outcropping. The view was grand and the clouds added sone dimension to it. The best part was this Rhododendron in bloom. Evidently it has the constant sun rays that helps it bloom early. It was stunning!

I retrieved my pack as no one in their right mind would steal it. We all have our own burdens to carry and they sure don’t want mine! I headed down the trail and stopped at a meadow. I haven’t seen many meadows on this trail so it seemed like a great place to wait for Blue. The only issue was as I went to put my sit pad down, there was poison ivy everywhere. No wonder no one was hanging out. Blue showed up and we were back to our dynamic duo.

Today was a fairly simple hike. We were headed into Johnny’s Hostel in Erwin, Tennessee to resupply. We stopped for a break and filled up on water when a Sobo (southbound) hiker stopped. I never got his name because he talked so much and had so much intel to share, I could never get a word in inch-wise. He shared with us all the highlights of the trail, where there was water and where there was not. He had our next 200 miles planned out! The most important information that he shared with us was regarding the best breakfast on the trail. It was coming up and cannot be missed, Mountain Harbor B&B. I will rearrange our plans to make sure we get a good breakfast! It’s been nothing but Protein Coffee and Biscotti for the past month. With one exception; our fine breakfast we had back at Fontana Dam! But that was a long, long time ago. I’m ready for some applewood smoked bacon. That’s what I’m talking about and guess what? The guy that runs the B&B makes his own smoked bacon.

We were finally able to breakaway from our new friend. The trail was diverse today. Sometimes we were walking in a canopy of trees and then we’d come around a corner that was dry and rocky. It was quite interesting. The part that wasn’t interesting is the fact that it’s humid here! I think part of my dehydration is due to the fact that I’m sweating like a pig. I had to take my long sleeve shirt off and wear my tank top. I’d never, never ever do that on the West Coast. The sun is too intense and I’d burn like a lobster. Here, that’s not an issue. The trail for the most part is covered in trees. No sunburn but boy oh boy, it’s just hot and muggy. I need a change of wardrobe, that’s for sure!

This afternoon I made it to Johnny’s Infamous Hostel. It’s a quirky place right on trail with everything a hiker would need. Blue and I checked-in, were given a towel and told where we could pitch our tent for the evening. The private rooms were taken and we already experienced firsthand staying in a Bunkhouse. One and done. We both would rather sleep in our tents. Thank you very much.

We had a shower, did our laundry and took the hiker shuttle to the grocery store. If it was up to me, the Shuttle Van would’ve been red tagged for safety. It made more rattles and clunks than anything I’ve ever ridden in. Even the Dingo-ball, goat carrying Bus in Nepal was safer! But we did arrive in one piece and returned back to our humble abode. And believe it or not, I’m planning to ride it again tomorrow. I know, wreck-less abandonment.

Hiker Hostel living is something everyone should experience, at least once in their life. It’s quite a thing with shared spaces, hammocks strung around, tents on top of tents and people wearing borrowed clothes while they do laundry. No one even tries to look their best. You just dig through a pile of clothes and hope to find something that fits. This allows you to wash your one outfit and long johns. It’s humbling, to say the least, and quite interesting to see the style or lack of it, walking around town.

Another funky day on the trail. I understand that this might not be everyone’s idea of vacationing, or for that matter, fun times at Ridgemont High. But for me, it’s a place where I can be me. No makeup, no fancy clothes, no deodorant (I know) and only one outfit. It reminds me of Jesus when he walked from village to village asking others to join him. They would drop everything and go with the clothes on their back and nothing else. There’s a freedom, a sense of purpose, that you find when you have such little possessions. Right now this is my home on the trail, and I am quite content with that. And…the best part, there’s always room for one more.

²⁵ Many people were traveling with Jesus. He said to them, ²⁶ “If you come to me but will not leave your family, you cannot be my follower. You must love me more than your father, mother, wife, children, brothers, and sisters—even more than your own life! Luke 14:25-26 NIV

Last night just as I was all tucked in, Margarita walks by. She tells us she just scared a small bear about 1/4 mile down the trail from us. Great, now we are in prime Bear Territory. We secured our food and prayed for the best! Luckily, all was good on Rice Gap. No bears disturbed our sleep and all food was accounted for in the morning. Both Blue and I woke up early and hightailed it out if there.

Today was all about climbing Balds. There was Big Bald, Little Bald and a fine view of Big Bald. By 10am, after a brief stop to collect water, Blue and I hit the view point of Big Bald. It was a grassy knoll with sprawling views in most directions. We took a couple of pictures and continued on.

As we are climbing and climbing and yes, more climbing, we run into Can Do. My shoulder was hurting me and I stopped to get some relief. Can Do had stopped also and I recognized him immediately. Two years ago when I had little to no intention to hike the Appalachian Trail, I started listening to a Podcast called The Mighty Blue on the AT. Mighty Blue hiked the AT in his 60’s and started this podcast about the trail, people who hike it and others who protect and preserve it. The more I listened, I realized that there was something mesmerizing about this route on the East Coast.

Last week when I was in Hot Springs, I heard an interview on The Mighty Blue Podcast and it was Can Do. He was talking about a snake encounter, which I have some firsthand experience with now. It just so happened when I went into the ATC to get my Passport stamped, Can Do was there also. We struck up a conversation about all things snakes and thanked him for his helpful advise. And today, as I was climbing to Big Bald, I saw Can Do again. Once again, no one can hide on this trail! We talked for a bit, and then Blue and I moseyed along.

Around 1:30pm, I finally arrive on top of Big Bald. It was, well something pretty special. The mountains seem closer on this Bald. I’m not sure why that is. But once again, all the pain, suffering and agony was absent once my eyes took in the panorama view. The scenery was a bit different from other Balds as this one had some trees that bordered it. Pines, Firs and some whispy type tree that I’d never seen before.

We saw the Boys from Allen Gap on top of the Bald eating lunch. Stubs, Juanito and Dundee are thru-hiking northbound and we seem to be running into them more frequently. We met them in the rainstorm last Friday when we were all waiting for rides.

Blue and I decided to head down and do a few more miles. We planned to hike fifteen miles a day, and today was the day we both were feeling good. The terrain was tough as we still had Little Bald to tackle. The scenery helped as it was completely foreign with small white flowers covering the ground, some red heather and small willowy trees. The miles went slow but we finally made it up and over Little Bald. Quite anti-climatic with no real view.

With the warmth of the day, I felt like I had a bit of heat exhaustion. As I was heading down the final stretch of trail this afternoon, I needed to stop and take electrolytes. I actually doubled them up as I could tell my body was not recovering. Big lesson learned. I always fill my small Nalgene bottle with some sort of electrolytes daily, but this morning I was short on water. Instead I filled it with cold brew coffee which was the exact opposite of what I needed. For being fairly smart most the time and a medic to boot, I sure can be a silly goose. Lesson learned.

The rest of the afternoon was a downhill slide as we were headed to a gap. Gaps are the lower parts of the trail that typically have flatter campsites and water. We arrived around 5pm, pitched our tents and went hunting for living water. It was a bit of a walk down a narrow path to a pipe. Someone commandeered this contraption to collect water that was trickling from an underground spring. Bless you whoever made this happen. I appreciate you, as many others do too!

Today had its challenges, to say the least. The climbs were relentless, the heat of the day was stifling and my feet were not cooperating. This is typical for long distant hiking. I wouldn’t be authentic if I said everyday is rainbows and unicorns. There are certainly days that are but there are also times where I am exhausted and tired. Yet the most important part of all this is that when I’m weak and when I’m tired, I know that my mighty Lord is not! I had to put a lot of trust and faith in Jesus today. There were many prayers being prayed, many praises being heard and much strength that was supernatural. As we know, all things are possible with Jesus. And today was no exception.

“That is why, for Christ’s sake, I delight in weaknesses, in insults, in hardships, in persecutions, in difficulties. For when I am weak, then I am strong.”
‭‭2 Corinthians‬ ‭12:10‬ ‭NIV‬‬

What a Bluebird Day I had today! Not a cloud in the sky and perfect 65-70 degrees. I’m sure this won’t last long as the weather changes daily, if not hourly. But today, oh boy, it was picture perfect. I left camp before 7am, well just barely.

The morning was easier than usual with a short climb to a tall grassy hill. It was lovely and something different than what I’ve seen before. No one had mowed it down, no happy cows grazed on it, just tall grasses blowing in the wind. The trail was lined with Blueberry’s and Blackberries but unfortunately, I’m too early for those. Better to save them for the bears. They’ll need to fatten up being I haven’t seen any salmon, or for that matter, any fish of any kind in the creeks along the way.

Blue and I were getting some early morning miles in when I noticed a sign to Shelton Graveside. A short spur trail led us to the graves of a pair of Union soldiers who were killed at this location. They were visiting family in the Confederacy during the Civil War in 1863. The area is grassy with designated campsites and fire rings. I don’t think I’d camp there but the two guys, Snake Charmer and Snake Whisperer were there. I told them about my Timber Rattler encounter yesterday and showed them pictures. They were amazed by the size of that snake, let alone the 11 rattles on its tail!

As I headed down the trail, I heard someone from the Flint Mountain Shelter call out my name. It’s Geisha Girl on the trail and most hikers call me GiGi. Rapunzel and Potatoes had stopped to have their morning coffee. They spent the last couple of days at Gmone Hostel in Hot Springs, while Blue and I went to Asheville. I stopped for a bit, chatted and beat feet to catch up with Blue.

I ran into some Trail Magic, that this older couple and their dog Kobe left for us hikers. I ate Kettle Chips which are about my most favorite salty thing ever! Finally at our planned destination, Rector Laurel Road, I met up with Blue. We stopped for lunch, soaked our feet and walked to the Laurel Hostel, which was just down the road. They had a sign posted for soda, pizza and beds. Cash only! We bit and walked the road and had some drinks, emptied our trash and met up with Rapunzel and Potatoes, who also had the same great idea.

We all went back to the trail and finished up our last few miles for the day. There were several day hikers, a few Sobo’s and a handful of thru-hikers I’d never met before. It seems that with all the people taking off for Trail Days in Damascus last weekend, I’m meeting some new faces.

Our final rest stop was Sugarloaf Gap. These two gals, Census and Spice Girl stopped and yakked with us for sometime. Ends up, we all started on the same day, April 15th but I’d never met them before. After talking for awhile, they have been one day behind me until today. They caught up after one month. With our extended trip to Asheville, I’m meeting new people and seeing old friends. That’s one of the most beautiful parts of this trail. The many people I meet and reconnect with daily, if not weekly, or possibly months later.

Blue and I decided to stop short of the Shelter. Everyone we talked to today we’re headed that way. We felt we wouldn’t find a decent campsite ahead. What we did find was a perfectly flat site at Rice Gap. Once again, we would be secluded and away from certain Bear activities as Bears love Shelters where there is guaranteed food!

Today was a great day. Sometimes anti-climatic days make the best days. No snakes to sneak up on me, no crazy falls or trip ups, just a perfectly crafted Tuesday. On Tuesday mornings, you would typically find me and Blue at Bayside Cafe in Granite Bay, California. We would be making espressos, heating pastries or just talking with friends. This is our ministry. How I love volunteering and greeting everyone that walks through our Cafe Doors. We have incredible Christian leadership with Debbie who keeps us focused on the mission at hand. We are there to serve whoever walks in, which means do whatever Jesus would do. It’s pretty simple. I miss all my Cafe Family and look forward to the day I get back to making coffee and loving our extended family. Until then, happy trails!

“She is clothed with strength and dignity; she can laugh at the days to come. She speaks with wisdom, and faithful instruction is on her tongue.”
‭‭Proverbs‬ ‭31:25-26‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Oh, it was extremely hard to leave Asheville. What a wonderful weekend I had with The Sigworth’s! Jeff, Karise and Noelle were the perfect hosts. Beer is King in Asheville, NC. In the past it was all about Moonshine. But in the 1990’s the innovation of Craft Beers began and now there’s 44 Breweries in this small little town USA. I’d like to say we tried them all, but we didn’t have time. It all started at Mellow Mushroom Pizza with their many beers on tap. Afterwards, Jeff and Karise introduced us to a few they had at home. We tasted many, well into Saturday evening. Jeff made a Smoked Tenderloin that was the most flavorful pork I’ve ever tasted. Karise made her Mama’s Coleslaw, flipping amazing and Dad’s Corn on the Cob. I’m feeling a bit like a Southern, and I’m not complaining at all.

On Sunday, we headed to Biltmore Church. A great message from the Book of John regarding Jesus’ and the temple. The Pastor did a honest interpretation regarding Jesus’ temper in regards to vilifying his Father’s House of Worship. It makes me truly understand how slow to anger our Heavenly Father is, yet there is a point where we finally see the wrath of God. Not the warm and fuzzy message but the truth! And how we truly need that, right about now.

After church, we went to this extravagant hotel called the Grove Park Inn. It’s on top of a hill in Asheville overlooking the valley below. There is a signed contract with The US Government that if the Supreme Court is needed to reconvene in another location, this would be the Highest Court of the Land. There was some politicians that did not agree with this, imagine that, but the contracts were found to be legitimate and so, it stands. It’s truly a piece of history, opulent and over the top! We walked the grounds and pretended that we belonged there. Blue and I were fashionable in our town hiking attire. Perfect!

Afterwards we went for lunch at Wicked Weed Brewery. I indulged in Fish and Chips and of course, Craft Beer. We drove to The GreenMan, another Craft Brewery in town. And to finish off the day by visiting The Biltmore Estate.

The Biltmore is lavash beyond the esteemed Kensington Palace. I’m sorry Queen Elizabeth, the Biltmore trumps your palace. It is the centerpiece of Asheville and still allows common folks to walk the grounds, gardens and tour this elegant and stately residence. It was built by the Vanderbilts and is still owned by the family. I was in awe of the gardens. The same landscape designer for the White House and other premier properties designed these 100,000 plus acres of land. It’s incredibly beautiful and maintained by a staff of hundreds. From what Karise said, if you are an employee of The Biltmore, you have arrived! It’s quite the prestigious career to be employed by the Vanderbilt’s.

Well, I finally did get back on the trail. Jeff drove Blue and I back to where Karise had picked us up on Friday, Allen’s Gap. Luckily it wasn’t raining this time, but we did get a bit spitted on today. The ground was wet from previous days rain. We climbed, I know, didn’t even need to write that! Before noon, we met The Nuts Family. They are from Arizona-New Mexico and are thru-hiking with their four children. They decided on Nuts because everyone including their family thought they were nuts to do this! Mom is Natella, Dad Pecan, the kids from oldest to youngest are Pistachio, Almond Joy, Chestnut and Donut. Super cute family put us to shame as they are hiking 15-17 miles daily and started April 20th, five days after me! The kids range from 6 to 12 years old. So impressed with them. And the kids seem to be having a ton of fun!

As I was approaching our lunch spot, at Big Firescald Knob, I nearly stepped on another rattlesnake. This time it was a Timber Rattler with 11 rattles on its tail and maybe four feet long. What gives? This guy or gal was just sunny itself on the rock step that I was suppose to be using. There was a Mom and Daughter ahead and I told them my dilemma. I decided to, once again, go off trail and attempt to high tail around this behemoth snake. The issue was the route was an intense rock climb and I wasn’t sure if the snake would decide to head my way. It wasn’t rattling and didn’t seem to care that I was there so I rock climbed around it. I’m getting a bit tired of these creatures hanging out on the trail! I made it safe and sound and continued to lunch.

After my meal which was not, but could’ve been rattlesnake meat, Blue and I headed off the mountain as the rain was coming our way. It was fun bouldering and “attempting” to find our way. Blue was a bit misplaced as she didn’t see the white blaze that was painted on the rock. As I climbed up, she went low and got stuck in the pucker-brush. After realizing her miscalculation, she managed to bust her way through the brush and meet back up with me. Navigation on the AT is a bit challenging at times. Once back on course, we continued north and stopped a bit short of our intended destination. Water was a concern and my feet were done for the day. Tomorrow will be a better day with an earlier wake up and longer miles.

I received a text from my sister Kari today. She was woken by our Dads dog Dandy last night. At first she thought maybe something was wrong with Dad, but thankfully, he was fine. She took Dandy to the backyard but that wasn’t what she wanted either. Finally Kari headed out front to the neighborhood park. She said she felt like someone or something was following or watching her. She turned around and saw nothing. As she continued, she felt it again and turned and saw three lights. Kari realized that this was nothing to fear but was spiritual. After walking a bit, she and the dog went home.

This morning when Kari awoke, she talked to God about what happened. Were they angels Lord? And were there three? From heaven above, a note flew into her room that was handwritten by our Mom (see above). It was indeed three angels, sent to protect and encourage both you and Dad. I do believe that our Lord sends spiritual beings, angels or whatever you may call them, to get our attention, to protect or warn us, and maybe just to love and encourage us. I have felt the presence of angels as I hike this trail, many times. I truly believe that we have angels that keep us from harm. As I continue my journey on this trail, I pray that Jesus will continue to send down a legion of angels, to watch over all us hikers and travelers that walk down these trails. We can always use an Angel to keep a watchful eye over all of us.

“Praise the Lord, you his angels, you mighty ones who do his bidding, who obey his word.”
‭‭Psalms‬ ‭103:20‬ ‭NIV‬‬

The souls of my feet are talking to me. The rest of my body is adapting to hiking fairly well. Legs are strong, my lungs are expanding as they should, my butt is recovering but my feet are aching every afternoon! Climbing up and down, around and over, mile after mile, my feet are pretty upset with me! Usually taking my shoes off, some elevation, rest, and Vitamin I (Ibuprofen) make them feel somewhat better.

Blue and I left Laughing Heart Hostel before the crack of dawn. We knew the long day ahead and the big plans we made. We have collectively decided sleeping in a bunkhouse with four others is not our cup of tea. Next time, we will pitch our tents and sleep on the lawn. It provides much better rest and less noise. Little sleep makes big miles and climbs tough.

We walked through town again, and headed up the awaiting trail. Climbing a thousand feet for breakfast is what we do best! The trail followed the river for a moment before it broke off and headed up and over the surrounding hills of Hot Springs. We had some incredible views looking back into town, and the ridge line that bordered it.

Before long, a Dad with two teenagers passed me. They were day hikers and moving pretty quick. A bit later, Mom caught up with me. I asked if she was with the boys ahead. Ends up they are The Prince Family from New Jersey. They devised a plan ten years ago that they would hike the Appalachian Trail over a twelve year period. To date they have covered close to 1800 miles. Today they were hiking to Allen Gap, some 15 miles and another twenty miles tomorrow. They have a younger daughter, who hasn’t bought into the hiking plan, so she typically stays with Grandma while the rest of the family tics off the miles. The oldest boy was accepted to Purdue University and for his entrance application, he wrote about hiking the Appalachian Trail with his family. I’m sure that was a wonderful introduction to the school administrators of what this student could accomplish.

Around lunchtime there was a Fire Lookout Tower atop Rich Mountain. It was just a bit off trail but I had to check it out. The Prince Family had just come down from it and highly recommended going to see it. I was in. Blue was undecided but after some pursuing, she joined me for the extra credit miles. Oh, we both were so glad. What a stunning sight of Virginia in the foreground and rolling hills of Tennessee. It was the nicest of all the towers I’ve climbed to date. Constructed of metal with handrails! This tower was definitely OSHA approved. We had lunch and talked with George, as there was a cell tower within spitting distance.

Once down from the tower, we headed back to the trail. A man with his Silver Lab stopped Blue and I and told us of a Mama Bear and her cubs that were up in a tree. We walked on, making noise and Blue clacking her walking sticks. Sure enough another thru-hiker had stopped. He pointed out the Bear and her Cubs that were some 70-75’ up the tree. Another lesson learned…you can never ever out climb a bear! We walked passed them pretending we didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. Don’t look behind the curtain, as they say! That Mama Bear looked so uncomfortable as she hung on for dear life in the V of the tree. The baby cubs seemed more at ease than mama, that’s for sure!

The rest of the day was a hard sell to my aching feet. There was much elevation change with constant ups and downs. I started complaining to myself, which just sets me up for Satan to overtake my thoughts. So I turned to my IPod for some direction. Joyce Meyers has a whole series on “Is Your Mouth Saved?” This was just what I needed to hear. She spoke about the Chosen People, the Israelites and how they wandered in the desert for forty years. It was a journey they should of completed in a month or two, but they were constantly complaining to the Lord. Well we all know how that goes. It really put me in my place and reminded me the more I complain, the more I remain. When we praise God for our circumstances, we are raised! I had to apologize for myself and realize that there are many who could only dream of walking fifteen miles in a day! And here I am hiking this incredible trail, seeing the beauty around me and feeling the wind on my back. What in the world do I have to complain about?

By late afternoon, Blue and I arrived at Allen Gap. The sky opened up, and the torrential rain that was forecasted arrived. As luck would have it, my Vorlage Ski Club friends from California moved to North Carolina last year. Karise and her daughter Noelle picked us up and rescued Blue and I from the impending doom of rain all weekend. And that’s how our mighty God works!

We headed to Mellow Mushroom Pizza in Asheville. Oh my goodness! The entire wall is covered with beer taps. Where do you start? Karise recommended a Green Man IPA which was exceptionally good! We ordered pizza to go and had a beer while we were waiting. Pizza, Beer, bath and a bed. What else could I desire?

This was the perfect ending to a week of long miles with tons of elevation gains and losses. Blue and I concurred that we should stay the entire weekend. For the first time since I stepped foot on the trail, I plan to take a double zero. Two days off from hiking. That’s heaven sent! Thanks Sigworth’s for the hospitality and the friendship. Here’s to kicking up my feet up and relaxing. No more complaining.

““I have heard the grumbling of the Israelites. Tell them, ‘At twilight you will eat meat, and in the morning you will be filled with bread. Then you will know that I am the Lord your God.’ ””
‭‭Exodus‬ ‭16:12‬ ‭NIV‬‬

The sound of owls late at night is enchanting. Around 1-2am, this loud owl kept on hooty hoot-hooting. He or she would make it’s noise and before I could hooty hoot back, it would hoot again. I remember my daughters friend who wanted to be a naturalist. He went to school, learned all these bird calls for distressed birds, mating bird calls, warning sounds and happy go-lucky bird songs. For his final, they played bird calls from 50 different species. His job was to identify what type of bird it was and what the bird was trying to say. Evidently he did so well that he was offered an internship in Utah as a Bird Naturalist. How I wish I knew what the owl was saying as I laid in my tent. It was an incredible song of sorts.

I woke up at my typical 530-545am and headed out of camp before 7am. Blue was taking her time but she would catch up. I slowly waltzed down the trail and immediate scared a white tail deer. I knew it was a deer because all I saw was her tail moving through the thicket. She was graceful and never looked at me.

I ran into Solo, as he called himself, leaving the shelter just north of me. I asked if many stayed and he said just a handful. He mentioned that the Privy was unusable as it was filled to the brim with “you know what.” The carpenter bees (bubble bees as I know them) invaded the squatters potty and no one could go near. The fact it was at the overflow mark, I thought, why would anyone want to use it anyhow?!?! Hence the reason I dig a six inch cat hole and do my business in the privacy of the forest!

Blue caught up as I was taking in the sights of Hot Springs. We had a short hike and all we could think of was Judy. Judy was on her way from Knoxville and planned to spend the day with us. We checked in at Laughing Heart Hostel, received a tour of the grounds and headed straight to the laundry. Blue found some loaner clothes and took a shower. I mingled with all my hiker friends that I hadn’t seen in a bit. Sea Legs and Sam, now called Late Owl, were the first that I saw. He comes into camp every evening by the time everyone else is cooking and pitching camp. Night Owl has a bum knee so he’s a bit slow on the trail, but keeps moving, one step closer to Maine daily. Sea Legs and Night Owl are my friends who lived in Wasilla, Alaska where my sister and her family reside. They are the cutest couple!

By 11am, Judy arrived as I was getting out of the shower. She brought Greek yogurt, berries, oranges, Sparkling Water, IPA and Marys Crackers for Blue. We put a dent in the food, and then, proceeded to the restaurant for lunch. My appetite is definitely kicking in. I ate blackened trout with two sides of green salad. We sat at the Fire Inn for sometime and walked into town. I’m talking a two block town that has everything a hiker might need. We picked up postcards, stamps, inserts for my shoes, fuel canister and baby powder. I think that’s it. Such a deal, a one stop shop!

After milling around town, we checked out the Hot Springs Resort. With a name like that, there must be something to it. Well, glad you asked! There are mineral hot springs that run through the property. We booked our private tub by the hour and soaked. It was on the river with fresh mineral water piped into the spa. We had such a relaxing soak, Blue, Judy and I. Afterwards, we stopped and had ice cream to finish off the day. Judy drove us back to our Hostel and she went back home in Knoxville.

So today was a Nero. Little miles and mostly rest. As I walked back into the Hostel, Potato and Rapunzel were cooking. These are the two that I cooked a gourmet dinner at “Around the Bend” Hostel on my first week. Rapunzel was making breakfast for dinner, pancakes, sausage and eggs and asked me to join them. Oh boy, oh boy! I loved every bit of it. We talked about places they might like to live, Spain, Portugal or South America? After much debate, they are planning to check out Portugal. So nice to be young and the world is your oyster.

What a perfect day. I sure have been blessed with family and friends. And now I have a new community of people that I care about. One of the best parts of long distant hiking is the relationships you make on the trail. The Appalachian is no exception. In fact they call it the most social trail of the three. There are so many hikers that touch ground here. If you’re an introvert, this could be a tough sell. But if you are a bit like me, then you may find this slice of trail, perfectly acceptable. And I truly believe Jesus would love this trail! There’s so many to break bread with. It perfectly suited, for both of us.

“No one has ever seen God; but if we love one another, God lives in us and his love is made complete in us.”
‭‭1 John‬ ‭4:12‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Max Patch. Done and in the history books! What an wondrous piece of real estate. In the past it was called Mack’s Patch and was known for cattle ranching. The Bald was trimmed, mowed and perfectly suited for grazing cattle. Now it is protected by the US Forestry and has many trails that hikers can traverse to see 360 degree view of mountains to the north, south, east and west! It is glorious. Blue and I arrived shortly after 7am and just stood in awe. It is a special place on the AT and the most visited spot in the southern Appalachians.

On my way off the Bald, I ran into some other fellow thru-hikers. Brave Little Toaster, BLT was packing up. We talked briefly and told him he’ll catch up with us soon. Sure enough, when Blue and I stopped for our morning snack, BLT arrived. I asked him to tell me a little more about himself. He was originally from Indiana and was in the Foster Care system his entire childhood. He bounced around a bit until a Foster Family took him in as a teen. He stayed with them and lived near Chicago. He is now an adult and talks about wanting to start a family of his own and adopt Foster Children. He would be such a great Dad, and surely understands firsthand what these kids would need. He runs a non-profit in Harlem and provides meals for homeless people. This guy has a calling and heart for people. We shared a bit about ourselves and continued on our way. We will definitely see more of BLT & Babe the Pig.

Our next bit of business was tackling Walnut Mountain. It was a climb but nothing like days past. There were two men from Antonio, Texas who we stayed up with. At the top of Walnut Mountain, they stopped dead in their tracks. I could hear the rattler from a hundred yards away. It was really mad and had no intentions of leaving it’s place near the trail. There was definitely a standoff and I was not gonna be in the middle of that show down! This Eastern Back Rattlesnake was at least six feet long with too many rattles to count. The Snake Charmers, as I called them, devised a plan. We would provide a very, very, very wide birth and walk off the trail. And so we did. We stomped into the high grasses infested with tics, I’m sure, and beat feet around that rattler! Definitely the most scared I’ve been since I climbed the rickety Fire Tower near Fontana Dam. We made it off the mountain alive and headed to Walnut Mountain Shelter. Just as you would suspect, there was a trail sign stating Rattlesnake Gap less than a mile away. How appropriate!

As far as I’m concerned, the rest of the day was fairly mundane. No bears chasing us down the trail and no tics making Lyme disease inside my body! We had a few more miles to go but today was the first time we made ten miles by noon. That is a big accomplishment since it can set you up for doing another 5-10 miles in the afternoon. Blue and I agreed that we didn’t want to stay in the shelter but wanted to be close enough to town, that tomorrow would be an easy day. We hiked another six plus miles and ended up with our highest mileage of the trip yet. We were both beat when we arrived to camp. We mostly griped of our feet being hot and tired! We pitched our tents, drank the water we carried to our dry camp and called it a night.

Today as I was walking, I asked the good Lord to show me what he wanted me to do today. He was pretty darn clear and said focus on me. Forget about where you are on the trail, how many miles you do or don’t have, and consider just trekking me with! I thought to myself how fortunate I am to be able to just do that. I’m no super athlete, no accomplished trail runner, I’m just an average woman who can walk. I think about the strength I have because of Jesus. I can’t conquer these mountains without him. I surely couldn’t crawl out of the valleys without his direction and I would never be able to walk mile after mile, week after week without his Devine intervention. What I can do is listen to the Lords wisdom, his quiet voice and know that my days are ordained by him. That is what I do know! And so I continue to walk and pursue his calling and am incredibly thankful for his overwhelming protection.

“But he said to me, “My grace is sufficient for you, for my power is made perfect in weakness.” Therefore I will boast all the more gladly about my weaknesses, so that Christ’s power may rest on me.”
‭‭2 Corinthians‬ ‭12:9‬ ‭NIV‬‬

I woke up with the sun, as I layed in my beautiful bunk bed. Standing Bear Hostel was pleasantly delightful. As I checked out, I talked with Jarrod about the history of this place. He said originally the property was used for growing Tobacco. As time went on, they built the Bunkhouse which housed the employees that were constructing Highway 40. And there was always a handful of good ole southerners, that made Moonshine. In fact the galvanized drums (pictured below) caused drinkers to become crazy and blind. It had nothing to do with the liquor, we’ll maybe a little, but the galvanized steel that was the so-called culprit.

Blue and I had a later start than usual. Of course, we had to make up the 4500’ of descent we lost yesterday so up, up and more up today. As we took our typical morning break, I met a 16 year old boy named Winston. He was all smiles as he was backpacking with his Mom. I had to stop him and ask if he was having fun? He said he loves backpacking. He enjoys setting up his tent and cooking at night, and he just likes being outside! Way to go Mom in getting your son away from the computer and exploring the great outdoors. He was adorable and actually allowed me to videotape him about his escapades. Super cool teen.

We had such an epic day. Once our first climb was done, we were atop Snowbird Peak. It had a communication tower on top of the mountain which explained the best cellular service on the AT to this point. And the views were pretty darn spectacular too. Ricky Bobby and Mark caught up with us and we all awed at the views of the Smokey’s. This was the best view of the National Park I’ve had. The sky was clear, and the wind blew out any haze that we have had in the past. It was pristine!

The men took off leaving Blue and I in the dust. This happens fairly regularly as we are a bit slower in our daily journeys. I tend to talk to everyone I meet while others are in such a hurry to get to the same place we are all going. Today as we were walking, I timed our miles. After climbing over 1000’ and hiking one hour, we covered 2.25 miles. In my calculations that equates to 3.25 miles because of the 1000’ climb. Seems like we are doing just fine!

Today brought me to tears. As I was hiking, the trail was lined with flowers for pretty much the entire day. I was talking with God and said this must be what heaven is going to look like. He laughed and said, “You haven’t seen anything yet. Just wait!” Honestly, I have walked in many incredibly beautiful places in my lifetime. I’ve seen incredible sights from mountains, to valleys, to deserts to peaks. But I don’t think I have ever seen a more intense display of flowers. It never ends. Since we were in the Smokey’s, the vast amount of color just boggles my mind! There is something magical about this stretch of trail. It just makes me appreciate how creative of God is!

Blue and I hiked as far as we could today. We stopped short of Max Patch. The day was perfect in so many ways. The weather was nice, warm but not hot. The breeze was light enough to cool you down on the climbs. The shade was welcoming and the flowers were on full display. I can only surmise that the Garden of Eden was what I walked through today. If I could bring you here, if you could see the beauty, hear the birds, smell the earth, then you would understand the tears I had today. I haven’t been so moved by a place since I was in Nepal. And that says a lot if you truly know me. What a garden I saw!

Yes, that’s a lot of downhill, my friend. And indeed it was. If I had knees, they would be talking! Good for me I lost them days ago. I packed up my condensation soaked tent, worldly belongings and waddled down the trail.

And what a waddle it was. The sun was shining and nothing was going to get in her way! Everything about this morning was glorious. The greens are more green than a crayola box of crayons. There’s forest green, fern and pine colored green, Mountain Laurel and more. It’s so hard to paint a picture of the trail. There’s layers upon layers of trees, ferns, moss and everything in between. I made it a mile or so when Bodhe caught up with me. She had slept in the shelter so it’s always hard to get out super early. We talked about the sunrise, the superior day ahead with mostly downhill, when she stopped dead in her tracks. Oh s$&t, she said, I left my rain jacket in the shelter! And that’s another reason to Not sleep in a shelter. Your stuff is everywhere and hard to keep it together. Bodhe dropped her pack and proceeded to hike back, round trip an extra three bonus miles.

Blue and I continued on as we slept in tents and had all our stuff securely stuffed in our packs. We climbed our one and only climb of the day over Mt Guyot and cruised downward. We could catch glimpses of the rolling mountains of Tennessee and suddenly, I saw Blue standing upon a huge rock! Here’s the vista. No towns, no roadways just endless trees as far as the eye could see. It was breathtaking. And those colors of green that never ended.

I had heard all sorts of stories, myths and legends regarding the AT. It’s wet and rainy, yes true. It’s muddy, rocky and craggy, quite true. It’s the green tunnel! Yes and no. I’ve seen places that Mountain Laurel grow like an arbor and capsulate the trail. I’ve seen trees that reach to the heavens but I can tell you, it is incredibly beautiful. Green tunnel, maybe but I wouldn’t want anything less!

The Smokey’s were so much different than what I had walked through in Georgia. Maybe because spring is here, trees are leafed out and flowers are blooming on every pathway, hillside and beyond. The rain, fog and mist made the trail quite muddy, slippery at times but today it was just nice soft muck. I love walking in muck as long as my shoes don’t completely submerge! That’s only happened a time or two but the muck, as I call it, is so nice to hike over. I know, I’m a bit odd when you think about muck being a good thing.

Finally I found a creek. It was actually a full on river with pools, cascading waterfalls and more. I was finally able to soak my feet. So glorious and luxurious, all I needed was a little epson salts. Many hikers passed by and commented on how nice to stop and sit but they continued down the trail. What a shame to miss a prime stopping locale on the trail. The creek followed the trail for a bit until it abruptly ended near Hwy 40. So odd to hear and see a freeway. We walked on the road for a bit, crossed beneath the highway and made it back to the woods.

Our destination today is Standing Bear Hostel. This is one of the places you have to stop and visit. Even if you don’t stay, it’s been a legend of the trail since the trail became part of the landscape. It’s a quirky place with a shared bunkhouse, tic infested grasses to pitch your tent (no thank you) and a couple of private oasis’s near the creek. Blue and I waltz in and Isabelle, the owners daughter asks us where we would like to stay? Do we have a choice of a private cabin? Yes, indeed. That’ll work. It is a rustic addition that was built and jettisons over the babbling creek. It’s quaint, nothing more than a bunk bed and comes with the resident cat! Perfect, we’ll take it.

Our resupply box arrived but the string cheese I packed, well it didn’t fair very well. It must have melted in transit as USPO had wrapped my box with plastic. Lesson learned. I organized my provisions as Blue scoped out the showers. I followed suit and then we headed to the laundry. The laundry room is no more than a scrub board, a large sink, some detergent and a dryer that ever-so-slowly dries your garments. Great! Clean socks, underwear, shirt, skirt and shorts. Well, relatively clean. As I waited for laundry, I was talking to Bodhe. She had a hole in her shorts that was causing some issues. I have a needle and thread, so I started mending her shorts. Before long, Quilted Cowboy comes over with his pile jacket. Any chance you can help me with this jacket? Surely, now I am mending all broken items on the trail. I had to say a hard NO to darning socks though.

We had a splendid evening hanging with all the “hiker trash“ as we call ourselves. We really aren’t trash at all but a mixture of eclectic people that find common ground on a trail that happens to meander from Georgia to Maine. I love our family of friends, one’s that are young and old, fit and not, weary and tired but glad to be sitting around a campfire sharing stories, myths and legends. What a place we have found, and what great company we are around.

God, bless each and everyone who passes through this place. The owners and family who care so well for the wary hikers are such a blessing. May you shine your love upon this hidden gem in the woods and forever keep it safe. I so love this journey you are taking me on. May I have eyes to see, ears to hear and an open heart so that your will, not mine, will be done. Amen.