That’s all we did today, five miles. After a good ish night sleep in the Shelter, and Blue in her tent, we were back on the trail at 6:30am. And it rained, and poured, and came down like the flood gates opened! We were well aware of a storm brewing and were hoping it would hold out till we got off trail. No such luck.
We started out with rain jackets and quickly, we deployed our umbrellas. The fact that it was pretty much a downhill slide, literally, the umbrella didn’t block our vision. It’s on the uphills that it’s annoying. The rocks, boulders and creeks were wet and running at full force. I couldn’t really take pictures being it was super wet and it was dark. The clouds made it seem like the sun never came up.
We stopped at the Lonesome Lake Hut. Just above the southwest shore of Lonesome Lake is one of the most easily accessible of the Appalachian Mountain Club Huts. The hut is a full-service mountain lodge with bunk space for 48. Overnight accommodations include breakfast and dinner, but reservations must be made ahead of time. For $160 you can stay in a bunk bed, poop in the woods and do not get a shower. But the food is scrumptious! Oh, and did I tell you, you have to hike there. Such a deal!
But there is a caveat. If you are thru-hiking, in which case there is a work-for-stay option. A maximum of 2 thru-hikers working for stay get floor space for sleeping, feast on leftovers, and are asked to work 2 hours. Due to increased traffic on the Appalachian Trail, Work-for-stay is statistically unlikely, however it does not hurt to ask. Mary Poppins scored a work-for-stay last night. She stayed at the lodge, slept inside on wooden benches and swept the floor this morning. It’s a great deal if you happen to be there at the right time.
Blue and I stopped at the Hut and had hot tea and the pastry of the day. It happened to be an Apple Spice Cake with lots of sugar. Perfect. The way these huts work is once you stay with Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) which Blue and I did last night for $10, you get a card that entitles you to pastries and soup at the huts. Each additional stay in your tent or shelter costs $5 and the money goes to…. maintain the trail, or pay the staff. I think the latter is more accurate. We sat and warmed up as the Caretaker talked to us. She told us that Mary Poppins left 15 minutes before we arrived. She was holding out for the weather report which comes from Mount Washington. It just got worse.
After eating and drinking, we headed out to finish our morning slog. The rain was merciless and the trail wasn’t looking much better. The sign for the AT stated “River is impassable – take alternate route”. So instead of continuing northbound on the AT, we took a much nicer and gentler trail to Kinsman Ridge Trail. It was graded with some small boulders but what a difference. What this told me is that IF the ATC wanted to make the AT kinder and gentler they could! But the don’t and hence it is the way it is.
We passed everyone on the trail, all the way down to the Campground. There was a group of women who were with a Veteran’s Club and had been hiking all weekend. The leader of the pack asked where we were headed, and I told her we planned to hitch a ride to Lincoln. I can give you a ride, she said. Sweet, that is music to my ears! We sat and chatted for a bit with our umbrellas up, and she said farewell to her fellow Veterans, and before I knew it, Blue and I were inside a Mercedes Van headed to White Mountain Motel. Wow, thank you Lord for planning that hookup.
We arrived at our Motel and talked with the Operator Skip. The room we had reserved still needs to be cleaned, but he will be happy to keep our packs while we go to the Diner. Outstanding. We are pretty much soaked and it’s still raining, but we can walk another half-mile to the Diner. The place was packed with a thirty minute wait. No worries, we have time to hangout. Blue and I ordered omelettes with more hot tea. By the time we got back, our room was ready. I love when a plan comes together. Well that’s it for the day. Now we are off to do our town chores, laundry and buy food. That’s the life of a thru-hiker.
kellyhikes4god 
Kelly, your reports continue to be great– informative and interesting. Your pending book will be 95% written by the time you get home 😃 . Seriously, “Hiking the AT with Jesus by my side.”
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I think you may be on to something. Great title! Can you edit for me too 😊
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It just keeps getting better and better – NOT!!! I think I’ll stick to bicycle touring 😉😆. Safe travels – and hoping for drier days ahead for you!
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Loving your posts – what an adventure and sights and people you are experiencing! Food – OMG – all sounds yummy! Missing out on the 100 degree heat!😊
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We have been treated with some fine dining. I guess that’s the reason most hikers don’t lose weight on the AT! There too many town stops and people always wanting to fatten you up 🤣
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Hi Kelly,
Saw your story in the ABP and was excited and impressed to see what you are doing after retirement. I wanted to compliment you on your achievements and passion. I can relate because I too am a trekker, but it took me being in the hospital ICU for five days with pneumonia to really understand the saying, life is short and do all you can while you still can. I had actually contacted the APB thinking of posting my story, but I never followed up, so it was great to see your story and maybe I will submit my story too?
I turned sixty on the second day in ICU, and after a month of recovery, I decided to start back to my love for adventure and hiking. I always loved hiking, camping and backpacking, but my back injury (reason for my retirement) keep me from carrying a backpack. Driving home from our second home in June Lake after my hospital stay I mentioned to my wife that I’ve always wanted to hike the PCT or to our cabin. She said, why not? I decided then that I wanted to get back to living life and found a two wheel hiking cart and started short hikes in the Sierras with it.
My first long trek was from my house in Ventura County to June Lake, about 370 miles which I did over trails, old roads, aqueduct, and mostly along highways because it was too difficult with the cart on rough trails. It was pretty tough the first half, but as you know, I got in better condition and in a rhythm after the first half.
Interesting, on my last day going up a very step grade, Dead Man’s Summit, I was almost feeling high with excitement and felt like I was being pushed uphill. I glanced down, in the middle of nowhere, and saw a baseball type card with a picture of Jesus. Did the give me a chill, which made my eyes water. Coincidence, or faith? But I am a believer in God.
After I completed my first trek I came back to June Lake months later and trekked the rest of the way to Canada. I paralleled the PCT and actually crossed I several times. I have since trekked over 13,000 miles, several Caminos from France, Portugal and Spain. I’ve trekked the South to North Island in New Zealand, Catalina Island, and many more short treks in California.
Last year I started to trek The Island Walk on Prince Edward Island in Canada, but caught Covid on my third day there and headed back home after five days in quarantine. I haven’t felt the same energy since getting it and hope to get back to normal soon.
Congratulations on your achievements and your faith,
Ted Stekkinger CHP#9758
My blog site is: tedtrekking.com
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Ted, what a story! I’d love to sit and talk with you. I met a guy while I was hiking the PCT. He went by the name of Half-Slow and had a cart with one wheel that he pulled behind him. He also hiked the PCT with the help of his wife and friends. Sounds much like the cart that the good Lord helped you get rid of. I love June Lake and used to spend a lot of time there when I was working with CHP. And still love going there for hikes and bike rides. My husband and I are planning our first Camino in October to Portugal, Lisbon to Santiago. Sounds like our paths have crossed in many ways. Thank you for reaching out. Still hiking nobo on AT and hoping to reach Mt Katahdin by mid-august, then sobo from Harper’s ferry to McAfee Knob by mid-September. God only knows. As you know, we plan and He laughs. But He sure has blessed my socks off on this journey. Love to meet you and your wife. Godspeed my friend. May God bless you and your family in countless ways and keep trekking.
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God told his disciples to go to the cities and town with just the clothes they are wearing, no food, no money, no clothes to change – and to just have faith and all would be taken care . Just as you are doing my friend – you and Blue. Have fun. – it will be over before you know it – rain is cleansing and you will dry out- hopefully. And then when it is over you will reminisce and wish you were on the trail again. Love you🥰
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You are so tight my friend. All this is temporary but the memories and Gods provisions will last a lifetime ❤️ thank you
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