It’s raining. No, it’s pouring. Okay, maybe it’s just raining hard. Last night when we went for dinner, it was a deluge of water. The streets were flooded, our shoes were soaking wet and we looked like drowned rats. The big difference was that we had an apartment to run inside. Not a tent, or three-sides mouse infested shelter but a bonafide home with running water, a shower and a place to hang out sopping wet clothes. So all was not lost! This morning, everything was dried but maybe our shoes. Not so bad.

It is raining today. The bright side is that the rain will not last all day. We got dressed, put on our rain covers over our big ole’ backpacks, donned our umbrellas and braved the elements. I’m not too afraid of rain but George hasn’t had much experience with hiking, let alone walking in the rain. This will be a big test for his wits and attitude. So far, he’s passing the litmus test.

We headed down to the Porto Cathedral which will stamp our Pilgrims Passport. This begins the second half of our journey, Porto to Santiago. There are a few others waiting for the church to open and we’re all huddled inside the dorm of the church. I guess Cathedrals aren’t 24/7 any longer, and so we wait till it opens. Good thing we don’t have anything to do today besides walk 25 kilometers, which in imperial units is 17 miles, more or less.

The doors open, we get our Credentials stamped, and now we are on our way. The Camino Coastal Route is what we’ve decided to use and it’s a bit obscured in making itself known. I meander around the streets of Porto before George and I find our way to the Douro River. This is a good starting point as all routes head north from here.

The rain has subsided a bit and it looks like we might get a break after all. George isn’t feeling as optimistic as me but, that’s par for course. I’m happy due to the fact it’s not pouring cats and dogs, there is no mud to tramp through and so far, no tour bus has sprayed me with water! My day is going pretty darn good!

We make it out of town by way of a metal grated walking path over the river. This, I am not a fan of. Why can’t they just have a nice bridge that you can’t see through? I hurry across the best I can but the darn thing is 1/2 mile long. I keep focused on what’s in front of me, rather than the 100’ drop below. Just get me off this bridge before I barf!

George and I put our umbrellas away and start meeting other Pilgrim’s. So the facts are, most Pilgrims start in Porto and head north to Santiago rather than beginning in Lisbon. Anyone who knows me understands that I am an overachiever and starting in Porto would’ve been, less than my best. So George gets some training before Porto and I am happy having an extra 150 miles to walk! And if we started in Porto, look at all the wonderful people we would’ve never met! It’s a win-win all around.

Before long, we had some miles under our feet, lots of wind to our backs, and sea splash in our face. The ocean was tumultuous. George had heard the surf would be over 14 meters high which is equivalent to 40 foot waves. There were severe weather warnings which if you’re a boater, that would mean “stay off the water!” I didn’t want to walk anywhere close to the surf today. It was downright wicked!

This part of the Coastline, the Black Coast, is littered with shipwrecks, families left widowed, children orphaned and submarines sunk. In fact, the second tallest lighthouse, the Boa Nova in Portugal, is just west of Porto. There are 225 steps to the top and the light is illuminated so bright that sailors can see it for over 28 nautical miles, which is over 52 kilometers in layman’s terms. It was definitely needed and a welcome addition, but seems a bit late.

Inspired by a painting by the famous Augusto Gomes, a great artist from Matosinhos, the sculptural ensemble “Tragedy at Sea”, was commissioned by José João Brito (2005). The greatest nautical tragedy ever recorded on Portuguese waters: On the 1st-2nd December 1947, several fishing boats sank off Leixes Port, causing the death of 152 crew members. The pain and despair was felt in the whole community leaving 72 widows and 152 orphans. Such a tragedy for so many.

George and I took our time walking today. There was so much to see and do. We stopped at The Castelo do Queijo (Cheese Castle) which is a noted landmark in Foz do Douro, an upscale suburb on the Atlantic Ocean, west of Porto. They call it the Cheese Castle because it sits atop a rock that looks like cheese. For 50 cents, we were able to tour the castle and play with the umpteen cannons. Money well spent, as far as I was concerned!

Out Tour Guide from yesterday recommended a place to eat in Matosinhos. After last nights amazing dinner that he also shared with us, I figured this would be another Michelin Star. From the outside, it was non-assuming but boy of boy, when we walked inside, I was blown away. Miguel did it again.

We sat down and ordered. I asked for two glasses of Verde Vinho (Green Wine) and our waiter brings us a full bottle of Red Wine from the Douro Valley. Hmm, well not what I asked for but it sure tasted great! I tried again in my best rendition of Portuguese and asked for Chicken and Vegetables. The chicken was so tender and grilled to perfection. The vegetables were French Fries and Rice, so close. I’m starting to understand that vegetables in Portugal is French Fries and virtually everything comes with rice. It was still the best lunch we’ve had! And the cost, $28, including espresso.

The rest of the day was spent catching up on the miles, hoping we would arrive to our Bed & Breakfast before tomorrow. The scenery was beautiful with rocky beaches, low tides and easy boardwalks. I’m loving the Coastal Route so far. George was keeping up, and with our many stops at cafes for espresso, beer and coca-cola, it kept him happy and hydrated! Me too, for that matter.

We turned off and did the last two blocks to arrive at “Smiling Faces” Bed & Breakfast. You’d think it was ten miles uphill. I’m not sure what the deal is with the last tenth of a mile, but it is always uphill and feels like a mile or two. Elizabeth greeted us like she knew us for years. This woman is a Saint. She had our room ready, beer chilled in the refrigerator, and a heart as big as Texas! We sat and talked for a couple hours. I think George would marry her if she would take him! She is the nicest, funniest lady with a laugh as loud as mine! She could be my sister.

So, I just cannot believe what we have experienced during this walkabout. Each day seems better than the last. We have truly been blessed every step of the way. Time will tell but I just keep thinking, can it get any better than it already has? Maybe so. Thank you Elizabeth for your generosity and hospitality. What an absolute jewel you are, and a perfect gift from God above!