Day 19: October 23, 23’ Amorosa – Anacora 26.6 Km; Total: 198.1 Mi

We did it. We woke up early and managed to get out the door before 8am, in the rain! I’m so proud of George. He really has come a long ways from being greener than green when it comes to backpacking, and now he’s charging out the door in a storm! Well, honestly neither one of us ran out the door, but we did what needed to be done. Rain or shine, we had some of our biggest miles ahead of us today.

Rainy Day Mondays

We did a lot of road walking. We were a bit off the trail when we came in last night. But we planned that. However, knowing we’d have rain most of morning, it was more about getting back to the Camino the quickest way possible.

Not My Happiest Place

As we headed out of the Projects, as George called it, which wasn’t too far from the truth, kids were lined up for the Bus. No, we are not taking the Bus but the thought crossed my mind. We walked up and over the knoll, turned north onto the Main Street. We followed it for a good 3-4 miles before reconnecting onto the Camino.

Signs of The Camino

George remarked that with the umbrella snd rain jacket, the rain wasn’t so bad. Who is this? My husband would never be caught dead outside in a rain storm. That’s what fireplaces are for, and warm houses. But here he was, with his umbrella, hat and rain jacket, in a downpour, not complaining. Well, only one complaint, wet shoes! I had the same complaint but I’ll never never ever wear Gortex on a trek. Unless I’m snowcamping or climbing a glacier.

Biggest Slug I’ve Seen

We made it to a Cafe around 9:30am and had our double espresso and pastry. It was nice to shed, and get out of the rain for a bit. By the time we finished, the sky began to clear. We walked across the bridge to Viano do Castelo and praised the glorious sunshine. Yeah, the rest of the day was downright warm and sunny!

View of Viano do Castelo

Pointe Eiffel and Viano do Castelo were quintessential European. They had the old architect, the colorful buildings, great cafes and people walking the streets. All the Store Owners were wiping down the tables and chairs, getting ready for the influx of people. Once the sun comes out, everyone sits outside and enjoys their espresso.

Streets Looking up to Castle

We made our way through the city streets. George stopped at the Pharmacy for Ibuprofen. I needed inserts for my trail runners. We were able to get both. Funny thing here in Portugal, you can’t buy Ibuprofen unless you shop at the pharmacy. They won’t sell it in the markets. From what we were told by Elizabeth, the government controls all over the counter meds. It’s nuts. A box of 20 tablets cost $7. But when you need an anti-inflammatory, you pay whatever price. George got his pills and my feet are happy with my new and improved footbeds.

Viano do Castelo

The beach was our next stop. It was so different with the sun glistening over the ocean blue. We finished the day walking along the coast. There were a few inland passages but for the most part, we followed the coastline for the remainder of today.

Boardwalk to The Breakers

This was a big day for George. We did close to 17 miles by the time it was done with a few breaks, a little beer and some pain meds. His knee is doing well but his feet are soft. I don’t think George has ever had a callous on his tender feet. Unlike me, my entire sole is one big callous, but my husbands foot is as soft as a newborn. This little walkabout is changing that. He is working on a few blisters which are now, turning to callouses. By the time we get to Santiago, his trail name will no longer be “Tenderfoot!” Or maybe he will just keep that.

My Man Tenderfoot

Our last push was close to a mile walking on the sand towards Vila Praia de Ancora. We had been eyeing this town since noon in the very far distance, but now we could make out the buildings. There was one river crossing that George noticed, Rio Ancora. Good thing he saw this because I was barreling through without giving it a thought. There was a foot bridge that we headed towards, and before long, we made it to town.

Extra Help for Right Path

Our nights lodging was another Four Star Hotel Meira. It was lovely. In town, close to all the provisions one needs and has a Bathtub! That’s worth another star in my book! Once settled in, I went straight for the tub. I so miss taking baths!

Long Beaches of Vila Praia do Ancora

The gal at the Front Desk recommended an Italian Restaurant right down the street. That sounded perfect as the only thing close to Italian that we’ve had was Pizza. We both ordered Pasta, a nice bottle of Red from Douro River, salad and finished it up with Tiramisu and Cappuccino.

Another Incredible Meal

Ends up that this hotel also has a scale. Any guesses on how much weight George has lost? I have lost a whopping five pounds, or close to that, but my husband has somehow managed to drop twenty pounds! I can’t believe it! Way to go George! And with all that, to think this wasn’t a diet plan. That shows you what some walking can do for your waistline.

My Sunny Husband

Tomorrow will be a couple of milestones. First thing, George will be a member of the 200 Mile Club! That’s a big flipping deal. Second accomplishment is we will be making our way into Spain. We have walked from Lisbon in southern part of Portugal to the northern most part of Portugal. And that’s pretty darn exciting.

The Map of Portugal and The Camino

Needless to say, this could not have been done without our Heavenly Father giving us the strength and desire to get up and walk day after day. Without His constant presence and guidance, we would not be where we are today. And that’s not just here on the Camino. We are blessed with each day, and never more. We have no idea what tomorrow will bring so living for the moments that are right here, right now is truly all we need. I cannot imagine what this journey will provide but I do know that the joy we have had, the love we have felt, the friends we have met, will be what we will cherish and remember for a lifetime.

Thank You George for Sticking it Out

7 thoughts on “Day 19: October 23, 23’ Amorosa – Anacora 26.6 Km; Total: 198.1 Mi

  1. I can’t believe either of you are losing weight given the meals you’ve been eating!! But 20 pounds?? Good on George! He might need suspenders soon!

    What kind of trail shoes do you use? Do you not use gortex shoes because they are too hot?

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    • I’ve tried many different shoes. Typically use Salomon because I have high arches and narrow feet. On the AT, I tried Brooks Cascadia because of the rock plates. So many rocks. They worked great for that terrain. In Portugal, because we are doing so much road walking and cobblestones, I wanted more cushion so now I’m wearing Altra Tempist. I love these shoes but I’d never wear them backpacking because they’re too soft. And yes, Gortex are too hot for my feet and they do not breathe. Unless you are in nothing but snow and slush, I would never ever recommend Gortex. That’s a long winded answer but now you know 😊

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      • I love Altras – sounds like i should stick with what works – they have a wider toe box, which i need because of a bunion issue.

        Happy trekking!! Good to see you both smiling so much – but especially George!!

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