Another hot one. George decided to take a Zero Day. Good move on his part. We headed down for customary juice, cafe latte, meat, cheese and bread. It was nourishing enough and we were on our way. Ended up a couple from San Diego was having breakfast next to us and had already called a taxi. We jumped onboard with them and I got dropped off in Zubiri. George continued to Pamplona with his new friends from San Diego. He would eventually meet up with our friends from Roseville, Moody & Mel, who plan to walk the next 130 miles with us.

The trail today was perfect. I had wished that George walked this section with me, rather than hills of yesterday. It was fairly flat with a good trail underfoot. I would pass twelve towns today. Some were barely a blip on the radar while others provided great Cafe stops. There weren’t as many Pilgrims today. Maybe they took taxi’s too.

The morning walk was lined with wildflowers, grassy fields and many horses, cows and sheep. I can always tell when I’m approaching them from the bells that sing. Now, here’s a question that one of you followers can answer for me? I understand cows having bells, not so much goats but they also fasten them on occasionally, but why would they adhere a cow bell to a horse? That just seems odd to me. Is he a runner or wayward horse that you need to keep within bell ringing distance? I just don’t get it!

After a few hours of walking, passing a few Pilgrims along the way, I stopped at a local cafe. Gosh I love these roadside stops. I spiced it up a bit today and had a double shot of espresso over ice! It was delicious, along with an apple and banana. I’ve found that all I am craving fruits and vegetables. Whenever I get a chance, I’ll take two!

After talking with Marcela and Pedro, they introduced me to a couple from South Carolina, Sally & Baynard. Yep I spelled that right. Sally told me she had never met a Baynard before either. They are an older couple on a two week stint walking sections of the Frances. It’s like a trial run to see how they like it. So far, so good. We had a nice visit and meandered on our way.

Today was hot. So hot I pulled out my umbrella and took my hat off. I have the Chrome Dome which boasts that it reduces the heat by 10-15 degrees. It really does make a huge difference. I have clamps on my pack so I can use it hands free. I received many compliments, that if I had a few extras, I definitely could have sold them. Juan, he was selling some stuff. Perched on the side of the trail listening to Dire Straits “Tunnel of Love” and dancing on the trail, he had water, juices, sodas and fruit to offer. Heck yes, I’ll take some cold water, a mandarin and I’ll dance a jingle with you. He was an interesting character. Cross between part entrepreneur and part gypsy. I kept my pocketbook close by and understood that he couldn’t be trusted completely, but he made me laugh and I got to hear some good classic Rock & Roll. I’ve noticed American Music is truly loved throughout the world.

While walking through one of the small towns Esteribar, I came across a church built back in 1158. The Illarratz Abbey, a 12th century Romanesque church located in the heart of Esteribar Valley, was a transit area for thousands of pilgrims, travelers and neighbors. Next to this Abbey is an old public path from where centuries ago the inhabitants of this Valley and all their livestock passed. After a long legal process, this path once again belongs to the Esteribar Town Council and its entire neighborhood. I’m so impressed how the towns people hold onto their heritage and fight to preserve it. Bravo Basque people!

At the end of the day, after going up and over my final climb, I walked through the City of Burlada. This was the biggest city I have seen while on my Pilgrimage this year. I crossed the Rio Ultzama which I had been following for quite some time. Kids were swimming and jumping off the Bridge, which really freaked me out! Kids being kids. I walked through the city streets, crossing several roundabouts, entered a sketchy neighborhood that I walked really fast through and back into the woods. This was the first time in four days I felt a bit unnerved.

Before I knew it, I was walking up the path near the Walls of Pamplona. Pamplona is the capital of Navarre province in northern Spain. It’s best known for the Running of the Bulls (Feast of San Fermín) in July. During this legendary multiday festival, bulls are led through the city streets by daredevil runners. This is a major stop along the Camino and is also home to Gothic-style churches including fortresslike San Nicolás.

I arrived at the Cathedral Hotel which George has already made himself at home. He has emptied his entire Backpack wondering why it weighs so much? Could it be he has too many clothes, not really. Shaving Kit, nope or is it all his extra Ibuprofen, Sport Legs, Electrolytes and Magic Potions he is carrying? Ding, ding, ding! That’s the answer. Honestly he has what he needs and it’s truly only 20 pounds but golly, it’d be much nicer only carrying five pounds on your back. So we’ve decided Donkey Service is worth a cup of coffee a day! For $6 his backpack gets transported from hotel to hotel. That’s money well spent!

After taking a shower and washing my hair, I was ready to check out this Medieval Town. We headed to the Square with Moody and Mel, and partook in our evening cocktail. Then after solving all the worlds problems, we found a hole-in-the-wall restaurant that was stupendous.

I had been craving salad and Moody wanted Paella so we were set. George went for the Special of the Day, Chop. And Mel ordered a steak. When George’s Chop came out, it was a half a side of Beef! And it was good sprinkled with Rock Salt. He shared it with Moody and me, as we also shared our incredible Paella. Dinner was the best we’ve had in Spain to date!

As we left, the streets were packed. There were people walking everywhere. Many of the young adults were sitting on the ground talking and drinking. I didn’t see a single cellphone. I told my clan I think it’s a Holiday and hence the reason everyone was out. To confirm my suspicions, I asked one of the locals what was the cause of celebration for everyone to be out? He said so matter of fact, it’s Friday, of course. Oh, that makes perfect sense!

What a great day it was. George is feeling so much better, I had an incredible day of walking, Mel & Moody are here and by golly, it’s Friday. God is good!