M&M were up and ready was too early this morning. Mel actually was taunting the trail like she was going to war! I’m not sure what she put in her Wheaties, but I’d love to get my hands on some of that. The nice gal who runs this place had mentioned that we would have a drastic change of scenery from vineyards to fields of cereal?!?! I’m thinking she meant wheat because I just don’t see Cheerios or Frosted Flakes growing for miles and miles. But we are in Spain, so who knows?

Breakfast was the typical fare. Fresh Squeezed OJ, Toast with Meats and Cheese, Plain Yogurt (my favorite) and coffee or tea. George went straight for the OJ as his belly was not having it after a double scoop of Gelato last night. The milk is definitely not pasteurized or homogenized around these parts, so maybe laying off lactose for a day or two could help him out.

As we left our lovely Apartment, and were greeted by 20-30 Koreans all walking the Camino. They are fast, funny and quick witted. There were a couple of Pilgrim Cut-Outs that we had to take part in, so once we all had our fun and games for the morning, we were back on task. Little hill climbs, little miles and only two towns today.

Brad walked with George and Moody for a bit, while Mel & I took the lead. It was cool outside but not cold like yesterday. We did have a forecast of rain, so we’ll see if that materializes. Come what may, we got all sorts of rain gear.

The red clay dirt continued for the first few miles and still had countless perfect rows and orchards of vineyards. These grapes aren’t too particular because it seems that they can grow in red or dark clay, mountainsides or flats, hills or valleys, with or without poppies, and need little attention. Again we had miles and miles of vines.

We made it to our first town, Azofra which is fairly small but has the most important, Cafe or two. We dropped our packs and headed in. I ran into Carolina who I hadn’t seen since Day 4. She was my Bunk Mate at Orisson’s on Day 1. This was so nice talking and catching up on her journey. She met a nice Pilgrim that she was hiking with as Young Joanna has been moving much faster. I ordered a double shot of carbs, bread with Potato Tarta-Sandwich. That wasn’t exactly what I was looking for but in Spain, I’m happy to get whatever they hand me. With a banana, I was ready to conquer any mountain. I wrapped it up and took for the road.

Once back on the foot path, the terrain changed a bit. We headed down near the roadway and back to the land of cereal and grain. There was some kale sprinkled in and lots of Pilgrims on the trail. Once we reached our final climb, we stopped to have our final break and lunch. There was a perfect piece of grass that served us well and we had our picnic. Out timing couldn’t have been better because once we finished and hit the trail, the rain arrived.

It was more of a light drizzle with a smattering of heavier drops but nothing unmanageable. Everyone donned their appropriate gear, rain jackets, pack covers and me, my Chrome Dome Umbrella. It was like a Chinese Fire Drill on the trail seeing everyone getting all decked out like a monsoon was headed our way. We made it up to the top of the hill and arrived at Cinnuela.

Now this is a sad story. 2008 in the height of the Real Estate crash, many investors thought this was going to be the upcoming area to move to. They built homes after homes with apartments and golf courses, but no one came. The town has housing for up to 60,000 people and only 225 residents reside in this Ghost Town. It’s the only place that I’ve seen in Spain, completely locked upped and abandoned. Quite strange and apocalyptic in a sense.

Once out of town, we headed back onto the trail that led to nowhere. It went through farmlands forever and a day. Not really because before long we headed over the last rise, and there she was, Santo Domingo. And it was only 1pm. We really need to stop walking so fast!

Once in town, we followed the Camino towards the Church. Ends up that we are staying in this old ancient convent that was built before 1600’s.

In the Herreriano style, the construction of this convent was ordered by the Archbishop of Saragossa, Friar Bernardo de Fresneda, and was used by the Order of Observant Franciscans. He wanted the building to house a university. Inside the church is the Friar’s Sepulcher which was made around 1605 and is in a Romanist style. The building has been refurbished and converted to House a Parador (the Parador de Turismo “Bernardo de Fresneda), a diocesan workshop for the restoration of works of art, and the Logrono Diocese Museum.

It is like walking back 400 plus years. Just incredible how they kept true to its architecture, yet built elaborate hotel rooms. We were given our one pound key to open the door, no key cards here and were blown away when we stepped inside. The decor is done in 16th Century Style with velvet drapes, stone walls and views of the courtyard. And it has a soaking bathtub. It doesn’t get any better than this!

I soaked, George took a shower and we met up with M&M. We walked the town and found several eateries but decided on an Italian Restaurant that Moody claimed to have four stars. All I wanted was a big salad and they had this incredible Goat Cheese Salad with all the works. Bingo, I’m sold. George had Spaghetti, Mel Carbonara and Moody Pizza. We’re all satisfied and then walked back to the Convent, now Hotel for the evening.

We toured the Convent, Church and Museum as the skies opened up again. I had my heart on climbing the Bell Tower but I may need to wait. There was so much history, carvings dated back to the 18th Century, Bibles from millenniums passed, and painting that were made hundreds of years ago. I truly was awestruck by this walk back in time.

Around 7pm, the skies calmed down and I headed to the Bell Tower. The boys were done for the day so I went solo. No problem as I love climbing a tower myself. Not really, but I had to check out the views. It was about 10 minutes from our room, and I headed to the square. There were many pilgrims I recognized and felt right at home. As I entered the tower, a group of six women were ahead of me. Perfect company. We made it up the 100-125 stairs and it wasn’t one bell but eight huge bells. And a view 360 degrees.

What I love about Europe is the fact there are no OSHA requirements, and if you want to climb a Bell Tower, it’ll cost you $5. That was the best deal in town.

So stunning in many different ways. I stayed till the clouds looked a bit too threatening and retreated back to the ground. Just another spectacular day on The Camino!

Every time I think I’ve seen it all, Spain knocks my socks off again and again. I just didn’t realize how much I would appreciate this country and its people. Even with my lackluster Spanish, and that’s a stretch as I have been told. I really don’t speak Spanish, but the Spaniards try their absolute best to understand my gringo mixture of Spanish, English and whatever other slag or twang I add to it. Thank goodness for George! He has bailed me out countless times as I try to get my request known. For that reason, and many more, George earns the Gold Star today. He has been our constant translator and realistically, we would be up a “you know what” creek without him. Super Walker and Translator, George you are more than worthy of the golden star!

Openness is the bridge that allows us to embrace the richness of different perspectives and cultures.