As my grandson Quin would say, best day ever! We woke up to birds singing, sunshine blazing and to top it off, it is Sunday, the Lords Day. It just can’t get any better than that! After days of rain, this was the first in quite sometime, that not a drop of rain fell on my head. Praise God, we have turned the page!

We had an apple and two small individual packets of Nutella left from yesterday. Sounds like the perfect breakfast to me. Coffee can wait! We packed our backpacks and off we went out the door.

My only issue this morning was we had to backtrack and follow steps we already did prior to get back on track. But George said that he would follow me anywhere. No more road walks, and we can follow the intended red line. Big win for Team Kelly.

The most beautiful thing about this morning was our first few miles were, drum roll please, downhill! What? How can that be? But it was and we were loving it. Honestly, without a doubt, today’s stage was hands down the absolute most beautiful section yet! How come no one warned us of this? Do they not see the beauty of this stage?

Being on the official VF, we met a couple of new pilgrims. Two guys from Spain, Miguel and Emilio were our first. We talked for a bit, but they picked up speed and were long gone, out of sight.

No caffeine was a bit of a problem but about five miles into our morning stroll, we ran across the cutest Donation Based Espresso Bar I’ve ever seen! Think of a Lemonade Stand. The two Spaniards were already indulging so George bellied up to the bar and made us two cafes. We drank full strength espresso, talked with our new friends and were fueled for the day.

The trail was a mixed bag of ridge lines that had 360 degree views of lush green hills, vineyards, valleys below and rock bottom rivers. Some of the creeks were flowing and we even got our shoes washed off after walking through of few patches of muddy slime. It was indeed, a perfect day. Even George was loving it!

With two or three miles to go and no food in our belly’s, we came across a Bar & Grill right on trail. We made a sharp right turn, ordered some food and drinks, then listened to quite an intensive presentation given by Backroads. They are an organized group that hires locals to help experience outdoor adventures. There were 15-20 bicyclists who received GPS, battery operated bikes. They plan to tour the Tuscany region between Radicofani to Siena in search of the best Chianti. Now that sounds like a fun trip.


As we finished our grub, the group jumped on their bikes and had their first look at the hills of Tuscany. Good luck riders! As we were leaving, George said, and I kid you not, “I hope there’s a hill so I can work off the big bowl of pasta I just ate.”Your wish is my command. And off we went to finish our day, climbing straight up an old gravel path. Be careful what you ask for….

I found this great organic farm online a few days back and booked it. They call them Agriturismo which means swanky farmhouse in my book. This place is on a bluff that overlooks the hillsides and valleys we recently walked through. They produce olive oil on the property, raise guinea pigs, have a few donkeys, and a plethora of big and small dogs. Farm to Table is what they boast on their website.

We checked in and entered a room fit for royalty. A King sized bed, fireplace, soaking tub for two, everything and then some. Oh my, we have arrived. After ten day of walking, this is what we were waiting for. I changed and went to the pool. No, it’s not heated but I had to attempt the challenge of another cold plunge.


We ran into the couple from England/Australia who we met on day one-Victoria and John. She’s the one who does not carry anything on her back. And her husband carry’s little. They have their luggage transferred daily. When they booked this trek, they had a company book all their accommodations and transfer their luggage. There are definitely pros and cons about it, but mostly, it’s been a grand way of traveling for them. They bee-bop down the trail with a spring in their step, and always tend to get to town much faster than George and I. Except when they make a wrong turn or fall into the river! She’s had a few days that have left her crying on the trail. This is not her typical way of traveling. The rain has been a real deal breaker for Victoria but better days are ahead. And they too, are walking to Rome.

We had the most marvelous conversation while waiting for our 7:30pm dinner. The Brits yakked all about places to see and things to do in their homeland. I think we have a trip planned next year, indeed. Dinner was a set menu with all the local ingredients farmed directly from this property. Was it the most exquisite meal of the trip? You can say it was one of the meat meals of my lifetime! It started with a non-typical assortment of cheeses, prosciutto, cured meats, tempura and crusted breads with olives and tapenades. Next was the wheat durum they use to create pasta unlike anything we have in the states. They use a light Pechora Cheese sauce with shaved hazelnuts that melted in your mouth. George was in heaven and the Maitre D’ brought him seconds. Now this is pasta! Our main course was stewed boar meat with a red wine sauce and wilted spinach. Finished with some blueberry flan that was custard-like and a cafe. Thank goodness, we only needed to walk to our room. Good golly, Miss Molly, that was one of the best days ever! I flopped in bed and slept like a well-fed baby!


Kelly, every year, your writing keeps getting better and better. Your descriptions of people, places, events, large and small, are great! Your pending book, “Kelly Hikes 4 God”, will be a smash success, sold in christian book stores as well as on Amazon, across the world. I envison sections of the book dedicated to each of your treks. As I keep telling you, you’ve already writen at least 90% of the book. On another subject, when Sheila and I rode the End-to-End ride in the UK, we had the pleasure of staying with Helen and Bob Shelmerdine. Helen is a photographer, writer and hiker. She has written and had published several books that are photo journals of her and Bob’s hikes across the UK. If you are interested, I’ll put you in touch with Helen.
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