Today we saw the bubble of Nobo’s, Northbound Hikers. They started in Mexico/New Mexico in April and are closing in on Canada. There had to be at least 10-15 today. They told us that they first started seeing Sobo’s in Yellowstone and have come across 30-40. That’s all? I think me and Fearless are the back of the pack but sounds like there still must be a handful behind us. All in total to this date is less than seventy of us.

Lots of ridge walking in the morning. But what was even more surprising was the amount of cows on the trail. They tend to walk the same trail we do and get quite aggravated when we continue towards them. Unlike cows, humans want to follow the easiest path. And so they moved over, except one. She stood her ground and gave me the eye. So I obliged. I know cow eye. Much like stink eye!

The wind was atrocious today. It would not let up for several hours. There was one point when I was blown off balance and bam, I spun around and landed off trail. The only other time I have felt wind like that was in Patagonia with my daughter Cherisa. It literally picked up a grown man with his backpack and hurled him in the air. Yep, that bad.

As we neared our lunch stop at Morrison Lake, Fearless heard a vehicle approaching. Wouldn’t it be something if they came this way? Well sure enough, Bobby and Rachel were celebrating their 16th Anniversary. They celebrate by riding their Side by Side and heading out to some dusty road. After talking with them for a minute, I asked, “ are you two headed to the lake and if so, can we hitch a ride?” Bobby was a bit concerned if we could safely get on the back but before he could say no, I was crawling in the back bucket. Fearless got in and off we went.

Two miles later, a few bumps, along with a couple of “oh crap” moments, we untangled ourselves and jump out. What a ride that was and one neither me nor Fearless will ever forget!

We found a huge piñon tree and sat down in the shade for lunch. Being we just earned an extra hour, Fearless reclined and promptly fell asleep. I’ve never seen someone who can sleep like she does. If she wasn’t Fearless, I’d call her Rip Van Winkle! She is the queen of naps.

After Sleeping Beauty woke up, we headed up the hill to our final stop for the day. While walking on ridge lines most of the day, we entered the High Mountain Desert landscape with Piñon Trees, Sage, Pines and assortment of low grasses. It was such a nice change from the vast ridge lines that were enveloped in smoke from all the surrounding fires.

Our last climb brought us to a plateau next to Tex Creek. It was surrounded by, yep you guessed it, cows. Big cows, little cows, Mama cows and one mega big boy steer. He was hanging out in the meadow that I wanted to pitch my tent in. Well, that didn’t happen. But I found a spot, flat and covered in pines. It was super soft and I promptly got to work in building my home for the night. Fearless found a bluff above me with a couple of perfect trees for her hammock. So we are all tucked in and ready to call it a day. Well that is, after we wiped off all the dust and grime from our four-wheeled adventure.

As I reflect on the past days, I am overwhelmed with the love and gratitude by complete strangers. The light of Jesus cannot be ignored, even while walking through the wilderness.
“You are the light of the world. A town built on a hill cannot be hidden. Neither do people light a lamp and put it under a bowl. Instead they put it on its stand, and it gives light to everyone in the house. In the same way, let your light shine before others, that they may see your good deeds and glorify your Father in heaven.”
Matthew 5:14-16 NIV
Kelly, SoBos v. NoBos. Are there advantages to going south as opposed to north and vice versa? Why did you choose to start north and go south?
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Good question. Timing is the biggest reason. Nobo’s start in April knowing they need to finish before winter hits Glacier. They have issues with San Juan’s if they get there too early, which seems to be problematic. Lots of snow travel.
Sobo’s start in June/July with a deadline of hitting Mexico by November. It gets cold and shorter days in fall. San Juan’s are clear of snow but thunderstorms are prevalent throughout Montana/Idaho/Wyoming. Fires are another issue for Sobo’s but Nobo’s have had to deal with fire closures too.
I chose Sobo due to timing. Cherisa was finishing up treatment and wanted to be sure she was good before I left. My biggest concern. And I’ve never done Sobo hike. PCT was Nobo, AT was Flip-Flop so CDT Sobo seemed right!
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Thanks Kelly. Good explanation.
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