Here I go again. I am a wanna-be professional hiker. Starting back in Middle School, my friend asked me to hike with her illustrious family of misfits. Honestly, I had never backpacked a day in my life, yet I was heading to Colorado to hike the Purgatory Trail. Adorning a pack, was absolutely unheard of to me. With all the necessary gear on my back, off I went.
After ten days in the mountains, and the intense weather Mother Nature could throw at our motley group, I was hooked! This catapulted my lifelong passion of wandering off into the woods. I truly found something that I didn’t even know I was missing.
Wanderlust or Nomadic
Fast-forward some 40 plus years, I am still heading into the backwoods and disappearing for weeks, if not months at a time. There is something that calls me to wanderlust. As I took part in the Ancestory.com craze, I found an unknown link to Nomadic people. I relate as I am a bit odd, hairy, enjoy sleeping outdoors and traveling by foot. On top of that, my blood type is B Positive, which supposedly enables me to transport more oxygen. Bottom line, God designed me perfectly to backpack!
Why the Appalachian Trail
This is the year I am heading east. Being a California Girl, I have done the majority of my backpacking in the Western United States, hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, Wonderland Trail, John Muir Trail, Colorado Trail, West Coast Trail, Uinta Highline Trail, you get the picture. But this year, I am hitting the Appalachian Trail (AT). Why is a good question? Honestly I was avoiding the AT for many reasons. Mostly for the logistics; it’s a long ways from home. I don’t like snakes, and frankly tics freak me out! Yet there is something appealing about mud, muck, rain and a wilder side. I love weather of all sorts and actually look forward to a good soaking. No doubt I will eat those words, but for now, bring it on!
In Forty days, I will be stepping out on the longest “hiking only” footpath in the world! That’s remarkable, exciting, and downright nerve-racking. So the next few weeks will be a flurry of decisions. What will I pack, what can I eliminate and truly how much food do I really plan to eat? The list goes on and my mind is overwhelmed.
God is With Me
In reality, this is only done because my Lord, the same Jesus you know, is with me. I have deep desires, hopes and dreams and I tend to follow my passions! As my launch date approaches, I pray daily. I pray that this is His will and not just mine. I pray that He has a path planned for me ahead of time, so when I stumble, He will pick me up, dust me off and send me back down the trail. I pray that there are people along the way that will desire to hear of His glory, His marvelous and miraculous stories and that I can convey all the love that He has shown me. And I pray that when the rubber hits the road, that I will be mentally, physically and spiritually ready for this journey. In the end, this is truly what I was made for. Appalachian Trail here I come.
February 5-6, 2022. Carson Pass to Winnemuca Lake & Return 6 miles, more or less
Snow camping! When I think about donning on Snowshoes, lugging a very large backpack and heading to the mountains in the winter, it thrills me. It is something that you either love or not. My husband says I’m crazy but I’m just crazy about the mountains. And the reality is, this is not for everyone. A cabin with a fire roaring and a Hot Toddy sounds like an end to a perfect winters day. To me, well, I like hiking into the mountains so I can hear nothing but the sound of my snowshoes crushing across a winter blanket of snow, or gazing over the rocky precipices and knowing that most likely, I’m the only one out here.
Many years ago, I went Snow camping on Mt Jacinto. I was with a friend who knew much more than I and set me up for success. We had all the right gear, great food and a positive attitude. We rode the Aerial Tram just outside of Palm Springs to the Mt Jac Trailhead, then headed towards the peak. My friend had all the training, map and compass ready at hand, and we ventured over fields of snow all day. We made it to the base of the mountain, set up camp and then, the snow began falling. And it never stopped snowing, all night long. When we woke in the morning, it was a Winter Wonderland with about 2-3 feet of fresh snow. We never made the peak that day. We packed up and with no physical landmarks due to the continuous blinding snow, we followed a compass bearing. A few hours later, we arrived at the Tram and survived a Southern California winter storm! It was terrifying but also exhilarating. This was my introduction to Snow Camping 101.
Fast forward some thirty years, I knew with my desire for long distant hiking, I needed to be able to handle all elements that come my way. Snow, sleet, sideways rain, and all the wonders that Mother Nature can pack. I signed up with the Sierra Club Snow-Camping Division and learned that I really was clueless when it came to camping in the snow. There is much more to it than pitching a tent, and making it through the night alive! They taught me about trenching, snow caves and igloos, about cold wells that trap freezing air away from your shelter, and building walls that help mitigate wind blowing into your little abode. There was training in gear selection, deadman’s which are not what you think but actually securing your tents or tarps, without stakes, but to sticks and string, building a community kitchen so you can share meals, conversation and libations. It was a wealth of information by seasoned instructors, that I soaked up like a sponge. I take these pearls of wisdom with me as I head out yearly and camp on a snowfield.
Last weekend, a group of friends secured a permit and we snow camped near Carson Pass along the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The weekend weather was idealistic. Blue skies, little wind and no snow in the immediate forecast. We snowshoed’ in a mighty mile or two. Yes, you read that right, not many miles but the beautiful part of snow camping, you don’t need to walk far to find the perfect camping spot! We headed into the trees looking for some flatter spots with protection from a random wind gust. We promptly pitched our tents, dug our trenches and built walls of snow around our sites. The guys worked on building a group kitchen and sawed blocks of snow for a table including suitable bench seats for our tushies, as the gals went hiking! We headed up the ridge line to Winnemuca Lake and were a bit taken back by the lack of snow. The lake was frozen, or it appeared to be anyways. I didn’t test it out as I had no plans of cryotherapy this day! The big rock outcroppings were bare of snow and lacked the dusting that I would hope it would have for the month of February. In Northern California, we had a banner December and accumulated much snow but January came, and not a drop of precipitation. Not a single snowflake and nothing in the future forecasts. Even with the lack of deep snow, it still is truly spectacular as you gaze up the passes and marvel at the grandeur of this area.
We headed back to camp and complimented the guys on their expert carpentry skills. We all pitched in with finding wood and started a fire that kept us toasty for the next few hours. When starting fire on snow there are a few rules. Start with a base of green pine needles, something that protects the dry wood from the icy snow. Then light a match and watch it burn. This keeps the fire roaring as it slowly melts into a large deep fire pit or hole in the snow. We shared hors d’oeuvres which was dinner and drank limoncello and spiced cider with Fireball. It was a splendid evening until the sunset and the temperature dropped to 15 degrees. That’s not a typo! It was frigid. By 7pm we were all in our respective tents snuggled for a cold winters nap.
My tent-mate Natalya was new to this snow camping business but she was an old hat to cold weather. She was born and raised in Russia and life was harsh when it compares to our warm soft upbringings in United States. But she knows there is no such thing as cold weather, just poor gear. She was a great partner; sleeps soundly, moves little and doesn’t complain, however cold it may be. I, on the other hand, tossed and turned all night long, slept poorly, but was toasty warm. I love my sleeping bag, my down pants and booties, my smartwool long johns, and my audio books. When you can’t sleep, put on a book and it will lull you to bed before you know it. We were in our tent for twelve hours! Luckily, there was much to talk about, share and plan for future trips. Natalya will be one of my friends who will hike a portion or two of the Appalachian Trail this spring with me. She loves the Lord and had actually prayed that God Almighty would bring her a friend that liked to hike. Answer to prayer for both of us! We have much in common, love the great outdoors and share an adventurous spirit. God brought me a great hiking partner indeed!
The following Sunday morning, we woke up before rigor mortis set in. We had our continuous cups of coffee and boiled much snow to make more water for coffee. The fire was lit again and we huddled around to thaw out from the morning temps. The sky was cloudless making the morning colder than ever but once the sun rose, we would have a picture perfect hike out. Everyone was in good spirits and started packing up for the hike back. We collapsed our tents, filled our holes and prepared our site for others incase they stumbled upon it. There is a golden rule: leave your place better than when you found it. Fill in your holes and pack out your trash. It doesn’t get much simpler than that! Just before leaving, we prayed for safety and thanksgiving for the beautiful weather and fellowship. We accomplished our mission, spending a cold winters night in the mountains and now it was time to moved out. On the way back, we ran into a few day hikers. Some with dogs, some on skies, and many with smiles from ear to ear. It takes a special person to spend the time to prepare themselves and walk into winter! But if you ever get the opportunity to embark in such a time, embrace it. The snow covered mountains are a blessing from heaven above and truly are magical! Such a place and time as this to travel the mountains and to taste it’s beauty.
As we returned to the comforts of our homes, we asked each other, why do we do this? Some agreed that it helps them to be more aware of Gods provisions. Their homes and careers, families and friends, our cushy lives. Others like me desire to disconnect, to hear and truly see Gods glory upfront and personal, to know Him deeper and respect His creation.
As I prepare for my trek this spring, I ask God for favor. To give me faith so that I may trust in the process, knowing that this will be difficult. Yet knowing that I can do all things as long as he allows me. In the weeks to come, please pray that I stay healthy and fit. That our Lord protects me as I persevere, to be all I can be, both physically, mentally and spiritually.
January 23, 2022. Granite Bay to Avery’s Pond 16.3 Miles
77 days to go and it’s getting serious. I have switched some things up, new pack and new shoes. Two of the most important pieces of gear and I’m changing them both. Well, at least I am trying them out.
My backpack is Gossamer G20 which is around 40 liters. A bit smaller that I usually carry but I was thinking with so many town stops and resupply options along the way, it should be fine. The jury is still out being my gear alone basically fills the inners and doesn’t leave much space for food. This could be a problem as eating is a very vital part of hiking. You need to replenish the thousands of calories that your body is expending as you walk up and down the glorious trail.
As for my shoes, this is near and dear to my heart! If your feet are sore or they are not happy, there’s no way you can put in the daily miles. I have been a true blue loyal customer to Solomons for the past ten years. I wore them on countless hikes, treks and thru-hikes, so why on Gods green earth would I switch? My number one reason is the rocks, roots and mud I will encounter on the AT. The Appalachian Trail is known for being an old trail and with that comes worn out footpaths and countless rocks! My Solomon’s don’t provide the padding that my aging feet are requiring these days. So I am trying out Altras. They are most popular for long distant hikers being they have a wide toe box and rear trap that holds your gaiters in place. The model I am trying is Timp2 which is a zero drop (mimics barefoot hiking), has a solid vibrant sole and cushy heel. I will let my feet decide as they are the boss of this choice.
Today I walked out my front door and headed north on the Pioneer Express Trail. This is a horse trail that takes you from Sacramento to Auburn. If you are really adventurous, you can keep walking to Squaw Valley. Where I live, I can walk two blocks and I’m on the trail. So I donned my pack full of all the essentials, tent, sleeping bag, pad, stove, clothes and food and headed towards the north. My game plan is Avery’s Pond, about 14-15 miles up the trail. I had my trust companion Zoey with me, a wonderful four-legged creature who was made for this type of travel. She carry’s her own pack filled with dog food, dog treats and her bowl and leash. The leash rarely comes out but it is required so she brings it with, ever so reluctantly.
The day was perfect. Blue skies, warming temperatures and relatively dry trails. There were a few other furry legged animals on the trail, along with some trail runners but I was the only backpacker. Honestly I can’t say that I’ve ever seen anyone else besides me backpacking on this piece of real estate. I’m not sure why as it is beautiful and relatively flat. The trail meanders through oak trees, brush and a bit of poison oak. It follows Folsom Lake and has beautiful vistas and rock outcroppings that overlook the water. I truly am blessed to have Folsom Lake State Park in my backyard.
As Zoey and I navigated the trail, we saw many horses and riders. Most the horse people are quite friendly and Zoey has due respect for these behemoth animals! She knows to stay away from their hind legs and typically sits on the side of the trail, without being asked, and watches as they pass us. For being a dog, she is quite smart and minds her manners. I couldn’t ask for a better behaved McNab and she is pretty happy that her owner takes her out regularly to stretch her paws!
We arrived at Rattlesnake Bar Boat Ramp and were greeted by my husband George with oranges and apples, carbonated water and beef jerky. Zoey loved the jerky as I chowed down on the fresh fruit. There is something magical about juicy fruit when all you typically eat is dried fruit or leather strips. George stayed for a bit and then nodded farewell as Zoey and I meandered up the last bit of our trail for the day. We made it to Avery’s Pond to find it quite empty. With the lack of rain the past few years, many lakes and ponds have dried up. We continued on and found a nice sheltered plateau above Folsom Lake. Zoey began bird watching as I set up for the night.
The evening was cool and once the sun set, it was downright cold. We both squeezed into our tent, had dinner and proceeded to sleep early. Tomorrow will be a warmer.
September 24, 2022. Avery’s Pond to Auburn Overlook 6.5 Miles
What a night. Zoey was on watch all night. She kept going in and out of the tent, star gazing and looking for nocturnal critters that were obviously going to invade our campsite. Then she started barking and growling at the wind. She was definitely on guard defending my presence. I had little to zero sleep and rose with the sun. Honestly I just wanted to drink some coffee and head up the hill to Auburn.
We tore down camp. Who am I kidding? I tore down camp as Zoey watched. We had breakfast, me polenta and sausage, Zoey lamb and rice with beef jerky sprinkled in. We both ate every single morsel and cleaned our bowls! Once packed up, we headed up the trail to Auburn. The trail followed the northern portion of Folsom Lake. The trail is well maintained and we saw quite a few runners this morning enjoying the perfect weather for mid-January. Only in California Will the temperatures dip down to the 30’s at night and warm to the 60’s in the day during what is suppose to be winter! Yes, we need more rain but I’ll wait till I get home for the rain dance!
As I think back on my two day jaunt, I believe my feet approve of the new shoes. It was touch and go for a bit as I got used to the Zero Drop but once my calves were stretched to their limits, all was good. The pack fits perfectly. It has wide padded shoulders and the hip belt sits right where it needs to. There is something splendid about having a base weight of less than 15 pounds. I was 12.4 pounds without food and water so there’s nothing to complain about when your backpack weighs less than many peoples daypack!
My Lord shined on me as I ventured out on this little adventure. He was present with all His glorious beauty, warm sunshine and numerous stars in the night sky. I know there are some people who question my thoughts of walking into the woods all by myself. But honestly, I am never alone. I hear God speaking to me as I climb the hills, when I come around a bend and marvel at this creation of his, or when I sit in my tent praying. I am never alone nor am I lonely. It is the solitude that I am relishing in, the quietness that I desire and the never ending source of peace. It is the end of a perfect day!
It has been some time since I entered words on a page. As I sit here and wonder what is next, I know that the Lord has been placing this trail on my heart. The Appalachian Trail, a winding long distance walk from Georgia to Maine that traverses 14 states and roughly 2,200 miles. I have been curious of this far away place, not really that far, but much of my hiking has been in the Western United States. As I gear up and contemplate what this year will teach me, I keep focusing on my word for the year “Journey”.
Journey is defined by Webster as a trip or tour, mean travel from one place to another, usually means of traveling a long distance and often in dangerous or difficult circumstances. I’m not digging the dangerous part, yet I know I have Jesus on my side and He will guide my every footstep. I do trust that this will be more of a “life journey,” as meditation brings balance to my thoughts and actions in my ways. This relationship of walking with the Lord, meditating on his word provides peace, contentment and joy that lasts a lifetime. I have found solace indeed as I hike trails, when my feet trod over soil, muddy, slimy and sometimes dusty roads, when my thoughts wander to creation and this incredible world that I am part of.
In our life journey, the unexpected may remind us or surprise us. My expectations for this hike builds as the days get closer. What will it be like? How will the weather effect my plans? Who will I meet and minister to along the way? Am I ready to conquer this unknown territory? All these questions with few answers. The lessons I learned from my first long distant hike was expect the unexpected, embrace the unknown and accept where you are right now. It is a funny thing as I plan this hike, prepare my daily milage sheets, plot my resupply boxes and determine where they will be mailed, schedule my nero’s and zero’s (days with little miles or no milage), and when I will finish.
A funny side story: As I am a planner, I have built my excel spreadsheet, planning everyday on the trail, where I would camp, resupply or pick up food and gear boxes, spend town days and take days off, down to the absolutes. Nothing left for chance. There is an event called “Trail Days” that happens every year in Damascus, Virginia and most, if not all thru-hikers attend. As I was plotting my days and milage, I fell short of Damascus by some 20-30 miles. To my luck there is a Hostel ran by a local named Dave and he provides rides for hikers. I called him late Thursday night assuming I would go straight to voice mail but to my surprise he answered the phone. I explained to him my dilemma that I will be a few miles shy of Damascus and wanted to see if I could hitch a ride. My plan was that I would arrive at his fine establishment on Friday, May 13th. He laughed and said, “Sweetheart, if you think you are going to follow an itinerary and arrive here on Friday the 13th, I’ll have a welcome banner with a free beer waiting for you!” I was a bit taken back and explained that I hiked the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) a few years ago, was well aware of the milage I was capable of and understood the dynamics of the trail. Dave stopped me mid-sentence and told me, “This is not the PCT, this is the Appalachian Trail and they are two different worlds.” With that I told him I’d be there Friday morning at 9am and he said, “if that’s the case I’ll have two beers for you!” We hung up and my illusion of this trail changed dramatically.
For the many who know nothing of this trail, it traverses through 14 states including Georgia, North Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. The Appalachian Trail also referred to as the AT is described as the longest hiking-only trail in the world. More than 3 million people are said to hike on a part of this trail yearly. The highest point is Clingmans Dome at 6.643′ and the lowest point is Bear Mountain State Park at 124′. Although the Appalachian Mountains are relatively low when compared to the Sierras or the Rocky Mountains, the amount of climb on the Appalachian Trail for a thru-hike is 515,000′ compared to the PCT which is 315,000′ or the Continental Divide Trail which is 400,000′. That is equivalent to climbing Mt Everest 17 times! So needless to say this will be one incredible and exhausting journey, filled with countless ups and downs.
At this point, I can only imagine what lies on the trail ahead. What treasures the Lord has for me, the people He has planned for me to meet and walk with, and the absolute trust I will need to take countless steps forward, every moment of everyday. This terrain I will walk on and the trees I will be surrounded by will be of nothing I have ever experienced. The nature that will envelop this trek will be something I have no knowledge of. The weather, rain, sleet, snow, wind, humidity and did I say RAIN will be a force to reckon with! The rocks, roots, mud and muck I will conquer daily without complaint, oh right. Surely I will be in the midst of something I have only dreamt about.
I have selected April 15th to start my journey. It will be Good Friday when I climb the 604 wooden steps that precede the AT. It is tradition to start on the “Approach Trail” which will let me know fairly quickly what is in-store for me in the upcoming five month trek. As I considered this hike, I was not fond of the elements that would present themselves, but I truly believe that this is the Lords way of refining me. He has a sweet way of putting me right where I need to be, humbling me and submitting my ways to His ways. So with that, I am training and preparing my heart for the days ahead. May you find a journey that will help you grow and mature in your faith. With God, all things are possible…even the Appalachian Trail.
I am the daughter of a King who is not moved by this world. For my God is with me and goes before me. I do not fear because I am His.
All photos above have been shared by the Ravens. They are wonderful friends that are Triple Crowner’s, hiking all three long distant trails in the US. You can follow their family as they hike: theravens15.wordpress.com
After walking, hiking, trekking or climbing, there is something so sweet about coming home. This year, I came back to Oakdale where my sweet father lives. It’s close to my home as he lives in Oakdale and I’m near Sacramento, California.
My Favorite Guys – George & Sid
Prior to jumping on my flight home, my dear husband George and mighty dog Zoey met Sid and I, in Salem, Virginia. George had driven across country to support me on the trail. With his new purchase, a 19’ Travel Trailer, the plan was to follow me as I continued nobo on the AT. Well we all know how plans go. We make plans and God laughs! So George and I had 24 hours of hugs and kisses & Zoey finally had us all back together again. Little did she know, it was not going to last long.
George, Zoey and I in the Love Shoe
We made the best of times. We all went to dinner, some Southern Cooking was in order. After dinner, we saw the new “Top Gun- Maverick” movie. My grandson has never seen Top Gun before. I couldn’t believe it. He must be the only person on this planet that hasn’t seen the best movie ever! If you haven’t watched it yet, do yourself a favor and go see it. I’ve never been too excited about sequels but I must admit, this was all sorts of entertaining.
Best Movie Ever 😊
Afterwards, we indulged in Dairy Queen Frosties or Blizzards-the ice cream you can turn upside-down and it still stays in your cup! Such a nice reunion. We waddled back to our Hotel and quickly I fell asleep.
Friday morning was a whirlwind of activity. I had been staying in contact with my sister and she was giving me updates on Dad. Prior to me leaving, Dad had open-heart surgery which was followed up with an implanted pacemaker-defibrillator. Needless to say, things didn’t go as well as expected. His heart wasn’t responding properly and his medications were causing severe side effects. My sister Kari called 911 out of desperation, and Dad was whisked away.
Two Sisters who Love Jesus
When I left the trail this year, I had asked Jesus to give me that compass for my next few steps. I had no idea what I was going back to. When I stepped off the plane, Kari was waiting. She updated me on all things Dad and was reassuring that he was in good and capable hands. The last two months while I was hiking, Kari kept Dad under constant care. She was with him 24/7 to the point there was no time for herself. She wouldn’t say it but she needed help. There is something that family understands without words, and this was my time to take the reigns. We laughed, we cried and we consoled each other. What a blessing to have a sister who you can share life with.
Jennie, Dad and I at Sutter Memorial
In times like these, I lean so heavily on the Lord, his grace and healing powers are my hope. Right now I am sitting in the hospital with Dad, trying to watch the Dodgers do what they do best. Win Baseball Games! My Dad loves the Dodgers. He has been a fan from the beginning of time and I am happy to support his team. In reality, the Dodgers are my Home Team too. The game didn’t go so good for Dodger fans, so we moved on to Hallmark Movies. Yes, Dad is a helpless romantic. Another thing we have in common. Here I sit watching our movie, while Dad says, “I’m still listening!” He’s fast asleep.
Dad, Me & Hallmark = 😴
So with all this, I still yearn for another mile on the trail, just one more uphill, maybe a thunder and lightning show of power, and an elusive stream to soak my tired feet. Two months was not enough but right now, it will have to suffice. I truly believe that I am exactly where I am suppose to be. God’s compass has directed me here. So my walk may change but the sweet Lord will always direct me! I find such peace in Him, the love of Jesus and am thoroughly blessed by all of you! I am immensely grateful for the outpouring of love, support and prayers I have received in the past few days. Thank you, each and everyone of you, who have walked with me through this journey. I will return to the trail when the Lord swings open that door again, but for now, I am right where I need to be. Home sweet home.
When the time is right, I, the Lord, will make it happen. Isaiah 60:22
Today was the final leg of this journey, my last day on this trail. We had a bit of condensation on both tents and sleeping bags, but nothing a little sunshine couldn’t take care of. We packed up and headed out for the day.
It was a stunning morning. There were walls of red and purple rock surrounding us as we climbed up on the plateau that was filled with moss, meadow and flowers. The morning walk was music to my feet, mellow and fairly flat. Salamander was a bit ahead and came to an abrupt stop. I knew something was up. I slowly came up from behind and there she was, a female moose. She was grand, standing within fifty feet of us and just watching us, as we locked eyes on her. We stood still for a few minutes and we’re intrigued by this massive horselike creature. As we turned to move on, the male moose showed his palms. Ought Oh, we had no idea there was a male too! We both looked at each other and slowly pressed on.
We continued on and walked across more meadows, around willows and ponds, while crossing many rocks and creeks. Salamander was within eye sight and like she does, vanished into the scenery. I crossed a fairly large creek and yes, lost the trail. Dang it. It appeared to head into the burn area and so I started my venture up and over burned out trees, logs and what had been so lush and green, turned into death and destruction. It was disheartening as I meandered through the distinct darkness. I was looking for Salamander’s footprints but couldn’t find them and started questioning myself, am I on the right trail? I checked my Gaia App and that silly little arrow that tells me what way to go, was headed right on track. Hmm, I wonder where the elusive Salamander went? After a good hour or so, my legs were painted with black soot. The trees that had been burned more than a year ago, rubbed up against me and made me look like a coal miner. Then to my surprise, I heard from behind, my partner. How did you get behind me? Ends up that Salamander never made it over the creek. She instead followed the water down, looking at fish in the pools and after a mile or two, realized that she had taken a wrong turn. We stopped, had lunch and filled up on water.
After our break, we took off for our last pass, Rock Sea Pass. Of course we must climb a final pass to concrete this trail and put it in the history books. Salamander and I looked at the map and decided to meet on the other side at Milky Spring. I put my head down and started hiking. It was a good four miles up and over the pass with an 1800’ climb, on my last day. I felt like a slug moving up the final switchbacks. As I made it to the summit, there were some day hikers on top. I received applause and Chris, an amateur videographer, was filming me. You’d think I climbed Everest as he wanted to ask all the pertinent questions like how long have you been out here, and where are you going, and when was your last shower? It was a wonderful afternoon, having my moment of fame with these young kids.
I headed off the mountain and made my way down to Milky Spring. It was a gentle descent, unlike others. The rock walls were towering around me and I thought I heard a goat or sheep calling me. I looked around but to no avail, only saw a marmot and pica running from rock to rock. As I came off the mountain, I saw the lush green meadow shimmering below. There Salamander was waiting for me. As I offloaded my pack, she tells me I should go soak my feet in the creek. What a splendid idea. I bit, and walked over. I took off my crocks and went to the Milky Spring, sat down and oh my, the water was freezing. The Milky Spring is a glaciated spring! I have never seen a spring that flowed from glacier water. There were a pile of rocks that this spring sprung from. It’s was brutally cold, to the point that my very tough, calloused feet could not bare more than thirty seconds in this milky murky water. I laughed at the thought of soaking my aching feet and realized I’d have to wait till tonight, when I get off the trail and into our glorious Holiday Day Inn Express Hotel!
Salamander and I ate our final meal on the trail, tuna, peanut butter and waffle crisp, Parmesan Cheese and a few ginger candies. Yummy for my tummy, ugh! All I really wanted was a burger and fries! And maybe a salad. We still had another 6.5 miles to go and it was already 3pm. All either of us could do was knock out this trail and get to the car. There was a bit of downhill with lots of rolling ups and downs. Salamander was like a horse going back to the barn. After she left, I didn’t see her again. I was milling, wanting to take it all in, my final day walking with Jesus. This has been quite a test in trials, endurance, perseverance and overcoming. As I look back on these past days, I understand why I needed this more than ever. This has been a year of heartache, with my Mom passing and just before I came out here, talking with my cousin Shari and hearing of my Mom’s sister passing, Auntie Gerry.
From left to right Auntie Gerry, My Mom & Grandma Mom (all in Jesus’ arms}
God has reminded me how important it is that I know where my family and friends will spend eternity. I surround myself with mostly Christians, yet God has placed some special people in my life that are unsure of their salvation. I was walking through the lush green meadows this morning, and just as quickly, it turned to ash and ruins. I prayed and wondered what was I suppose to make of this? It was so clear in my soul, you can be with me in this lush vast garden or you can choose not to follow me, and your eternity will be dark and empty. I have a handful of fiends and family who do not know Jesus like I do. And I understand what the Lord is telling me; there is a mission field of unbelievers, who will never know me, unless someone shares my love with them. I now know what He wanted of me and I have an obvious path. Not one that is unknown, not something that I need to stumble through but clear and distinct direction that takes my family and friends directly to your loving arms.
I made it to the car at 730pm. It was bittersweet but I was ready to set my next path. This was clear, concise and full of hope. The trail that leads directly to you. My true compass and perfected direction. Thank you Lord for our time to hope, to dream and to know, that you have designed me for Your perfect and wonderful purpose. Until we meet again, I so truly love you and cannot wait to introduce new family and friends into your kingdom.
Lay not up for yourself treasures here on earth, where moths and most cloth corrupts, and where thieves break through and steal; But lay up yourself treasure in heaven, where neither moths or rust clothes corrupt,and where thieves do not break through and steal; For where your treasure is, there your heart will also be. Matthew 6:19-21
This concludes my trail for 2021. It has been a pleasure hiking along with you and especially my most trusted and faithful friend Jesus! I will continue my hikes for God, accompanied by my dog wonder Zoey, from my backyard near Sacramento, California. Until we meet again, May God keep you protected and may you share the good news of our Lord with everyone you meet. Godspeed ❤️ and remember to always love!
This day will be etched in my mind forever. I need to explain who Salamander is. Sally Miller has been my hiking partner for over ten years. I met Sally and Roy when they moved to Sacramento in 2005. They are the kind of couple that when you meet them, you know they will be lifelong friends. In 2009 I was asked to join a group called “Cops on Top.” They are law enforcement officers from all over United States and every year, their goal is to have an officer summit the highest peak in each state on June 4th. I accepted the challenge and with another friend Elisa, we climbed Mt Whitney for the cause. The following year, I was asked if I’d be interested in summiting Mount Rainier? This is a completely different climb as it is alpine mountaineering and honestly, my experience is quite limited. I called Sally and Roy and asked if they would be my teammates? Sally is an officer with Nampa PD in Idaho and Roy, a Medic, so a perfect fit for the team. They are one powerful couple, with vast outdoor experience and both efficient climbers! As it worked out, there were ten climbers and we summited Rainier June 2010. So Salamander is “no joke!’ Since then we have backpacked every year, including such trails as Wonderland Trail, Tetons, portions of the Pacific Crest Trail, Tahoe Rim Trail, Colorado Trail, you get the gist. The list goes on…
With all the credentials of Salamander, today was the icing on the cake. Every other year, we trade off choosing adventures and this year, Sally picked the trail. Highline Trail in the Uinta Wilderness. I came along blindly not doing much research and just riding on the shirttails of Salamander. We had two passes to cover today, Red Rocks and Dead Horse Pass. Right there, is a clue! We hit Red Rocks Pass early and made it up and over fairly quickly. Met some more College Students from Indiana with extremely heavy packs and wondered, have they ever heard the concept of ultralight? It breaks my heart because I am sure that there are a handful of them who will never ever backpack again. They have packs loaded with their fears and many useless items.
Salamander and I made it to Dead Horse Lake, an emerald green lake, like known I have ever seen. It wasn’t glaciated but green because of the rocks and minerals in the area. Salamander and I contemplated the fact that the pass we were about to embark on was only one mile up and 800’ of elevation. Honestly, that doesn’t sound too terribly horrifying, but you didn’t climb it!
We headed up and immediately this was like nothing I have ever attempted. Mt Whitney has 99 switchbacks but it has cables where they are needed and the climbing is gradual. Mt Rainier I climbed late in the evening, typical alpine start, so I never looked down until I was on my way down. Salamander reminded me today that she had to literally talk me off that mountain, being I was ready to call it quits, over and finished, yet I was only half way down. In Utah, I guess you just pick your hike and do it! This route should have been a mountaineers route. Meaning, you need to have much experience and nerves of steel. This was the scariest backpacking I have ever done. Salamander and I have jumped across glaciers, we have partially climbed the Middle Tetons. We have hiked the Wonderland Trail where I noticed that we needed to climb the steep cliff using a rope, and gratefully there was a used rope to help us access the trail. But I have never climbed a trail that was so sketchy that you better not take a misstep, because that, could in fact, be your last! Let’s just say I was laser focused.
Salamander was in the lead and I was slowly making my way up this unforeseen cliff that only had two options. One, you survive by the grace of God or two, you are like the dead horse, who didn’t. All I needed to do was rely solely on Jesus. There’s the saying that there are two foot prints in the sand, one of Jesus and the other of you being carried. I was definitely being escorted if not, certainly carried up this pass. I could not look up or down but only at His steps in front of me. I have never faced fear like I did today! This can only be described as a walk in faith knowing that God Almighty is in charge. After the longest hour of my life, I summited this pass but as we all know, that is only half the battle. Unless you make it down, you never truly accomplished anything.
Salamander was at the top waiting for me and surveying our route down. It was just as precarious as the way up! Once we literally found the route down, it was much less eroded with fairly firm footholds. The valley below was intoxicating as it looked like a Jurassic Park museum. Salamander was saying that the dinosaur archeological society have unearthed many bones in the surrounding area. It was a perfect haven for these prehistoric animals to roam. After two hours had passed, we finally arrived back on solid ground. My stomach was nothing short of rumbling and tumbling and I had to stop to compose myself. I literally felt sick and yes, I upchucked my chicken salad lunch. I have never never-ever felt fear like I did today!
The rest of the afternoon does not matter. There was some route finding issues that annoyed me but in the scheme of things, it all worked out. Salamander and I made it to camp, had a lovely dinner of couscous with vegetables and received frequent visits from the resident deer.
There is no way to put today in words. It was beyond anything that I have ever experienced. Without God’s grace and his guiding footsteps, I would not be blogging in my tent tonight. He loves me more than my imagination and He protected me from certain foe. Today will be a day that I will never forget. It will be a day that defines my existence and His value of who I am. Tomorrow I feel Jesus will open a door for me, to share what purpose He has for me. But if tomorrow is not the day, I will be patiently waiting for what He has in store for me. I am so blessed to be alive and to be a vessel for whatever He has planned for my remaining life.
As a prisoner for the Lord, I urge you to live a life worthy of the calling you have received. Be completely humble and gentle, be patient bearing with one another in love. Ephesians 4:1-3
Utah is all about extremes. The wind last night knocked my guideline down not one, two or three times. But four times. It was like the jet stream came down on hovered over my tent! The only other place I’ve ever experienced winds like that was in Patagonia with my daughter years ago. After the third time of reconfiguring my line, I gave up and pushed my back against the tent pole and attempted to sleep. Needless to say, I was up early and on my way over Pobquupine Pass.
Others had the same idea, early summit, except they were hiking Eastbound, so I ran into two big groups. The first crew were leaders who were taking out new college students before they began freshmen year. There were a couple of younger boys and girls who didn’t seem to be thrilled with the idea of hiking over the pass to see the sunrise. It truly is something everyone should do once in their lifetime as God puts on quite a show to the early risers. The other group were 15 men from all over the world, who were embarking on Seminary School and this was there, getting aquatinted, 50 mile journey. They were in great spirits and quite fun to talk with.
Porcupine Pass was a great early morning climb with endless vistas in all directions. The trail on the way up was fairly easy to follow, but heading over the pass, and going down to the meadow below, could use some help. It has eroded from all the recent rains and the ones who know me, know my fear of heights and crossing abyss like caverns. I try to not look down, move as slowly as I can, and make it without slipping and succumbing to certain pain!
The day is always best when I can climb in the early morning. Salamander and I hooked up in the valley below near a creek and had our morning snack, washed our extra pair of undies and socks and carried on to the next creek for lunch. As days go, this was definitely our easiest day of the trip so far. After lunch, we made our way though an unnamed meadow that was filled with sheep. This time, I actually walked right next to them like I was the Shepard or just an annoyance being they fled from left to right and vice versa, not sure where to go. They were all sizes, Youngers and Elders, black sheep and white sheep. I never saw their Shepard and they were doing just what sheep do, graze.
The afternoon was uneventful and we made it to a free flowing creek for the evening. Salamander always finds the best Camp spots away from the trail and fairly level. I taught her the fine art of using a water bottle to find a level spot. You lay the bottle on the ground and use it like a carpenters level and presto, sleeping flat is that simple.
Today I was talking with God and making some sense of the past few days. It seems it takes me a few days to unwind and really get deep with the Lord. As I have been journeying I realized how many things that I say or do that block the power of the Holy Spirit. When I criticize others, gossip, and flat out talk rudely about Gods people, I am placing a wedge between me and Him. The more I love others, edify Gods people, bring joy into their lives, I receive tenfold of what God has desired for me. I wonder how many gifts I have rejected by not being the person God designed me to be? This is a place that I truly need to work on so I can sincerely do what the Lord has planned for me. This is tough stuff, much harder than climbing mountains or crossing flowing streams. This is really desiring to change who I am, so I may better serve my master. This is only the tip of the iceberg of conversations that I have been having, but it starts with one step in front of the other and those small steps can truly change the lives of the people I love.
Lord, you have searched me and known me. You know my rising up and my sitting down. You understand my thought afar off. You comprehend my path and my lying down and are acquainted with my every moves. For there is not a word on my tongue, Lord that you know it all together. You have hedged me before and behind me and laid your hand upon me. I will praise you for I am fearfully and wonderfully made. Marvelous are your works and that my soul knows very well. Psalm 139:1-5
What a thrilling night. There was thunder and lightning above our heads all night long with torrential downpours. Salamander woke up with a puddle under her tent and everything we had was wet! Not a great start to the day but the sun peaked out and thank goodness, it wasn’t raining in the morning. These are big wins!
What was super exciting was a real live Shepard tending his herd of some 500 sheep. He had some helpful sheep dogs that knew exactly how to move those sheep from one side of the meadow to the other. It looked like a flock of geese or some other migrating birds that fly or in this case, run in formation across the grassy field. The Shepherd came over to greet but neither Salamander nor I could speak much Spanish so the conversation was quick ending. But we’re able to gather that he would be here through August and then the lambs would be ready for harvest.
We climbed over the highest pass, Anderson Pass today which is 12800’ and change. The tallest peak in Utah is Kings Peak 13527’ which Salamander ran up like a gazelle. I watched from the safety of the pass and headed over the other side. The Conservation Corp was doing some trail work on the pass, placing huge rocks that act as barriers for erosion. They will be working this area for the summer. Bless their hearts as that is hard and painstaking work.
As I was making my way down the steepest pass of this trek, I heard rumbling and thought, more thunder storms? As I looked over to the ridge just below Kings Peak, the most enormous rockslide had started. It seems that whenever I witness a rockslide, I’m with Salamander so that shall give you an indication as to the places we travel together. I videotaped it as it let off and continued for over a minute, careening all the way down the steep face. It really reminds me how powerful Mother Earth can be. I believe with the intense saturation we had from the night before, it was enough to start this climatic event. It sure reminds me to respect the backcountry and all the wrath it holds!
The descent was much more intense than the climb and I was grateful that we chose to hike east to west. Well at least today. The meadow below is like nothing I’ve ever seen. It’s so huge. The only comparison would be Yosemite but I believe the glacier that carved this area was twice the size of Yosemite Valley. They call it “Valley of the Kings” as Kings Peak overlooks it like he is seated on a throne. It is spectacular and just boggles my mind how few people ever experience this place. There is no easy way to get here except pure grit and some bit of crazy. I always think I’ve hit my max when I’m out here but this truly has pushed me beyond anything I thought I could do. It is strenuous daily, and never gives you much of a chance to take a breath. God has reminded me time after time to just slow down and walk this with him. I am slowly realizing that I truly need to listen to his sweet and comforting voice so I can freely inhale his majesty and glory.
Today we didn’t get in all the miles we planned. The intention was to climb three passes and finish off with Porcupine Pass. But I’ve learned intentions are fine but God Almighty has it already taken care of. Around 530pm, the weather began to clear. Warm beautiful blue skies and we made our mind up to finish in this basin on the other side of Tungsten Pass. It was lovely. We actually sat and warmed up our body’s and gear under the sun rays, and relaxed for a change. There comes a time when you just need to soak in this beauty and rest. Thank you Jesus for giving me this time to honor you, to seek all that you have blessed me with and know when enough is enough.
I trust in, rely on, and am confident in you. Oh Lord, I say, you are my God. my times are in your hands Psalm 31:14-15
Today was the most breathtaking day ever! I have never hiked in Utah. Never been to Bryce Canyon or Zion so these orange and red mountains, these enormous cliff sides are all new to me.
We started late today. I needed a little extra rest from my knees and ankles and Salamander was quite accommodating. No complaints on her end. We started out with a beautiful walk through the trees, on a trail and found this old abandoned cabin. I always love this part of my hikes when you stumble across something so unexpected. The trail was fairly easy to follow, nothing to crazy to navigate and made the early morning hiking much more enjoyable than yesterday.
There were more people on the trail today than we have seen all days prior. We met two gals who were thru-hiking, just as we are. They took over our coveted break spot overlooking the meadow and river below. We had a small break from the weather and attempted to dry our soaked tents from the night before. It seems to rain a lot in Utah, at least this time of year.
As I continued on, I met two fishermen, hiking and fishing for a few days. This was their annual guys trip and were on their way out. After talking awhile, sharing tips on lightening their loads, I asked if there was any chance they may have Motrin? Without hesitation, he pulls out a nicely organized pill box that has five Motrin’s and five Tylenol’s. Just take it all. We are on our way out and I won’t be needing it. I wanted to hug him but I’m sure he would not appreciated me and all my stink! For some unknown reason I had decided that I wouldn’t need anything for this trek. Silly me. My knees are screaming at me, and my shoulders are so sore from carrying this heavy load. I call this simple gesture, Trail Magic. When you least expect it, the trail provides. And to think I have five days left, one for each day. Only God could have orchestrated this chance encounter.
Just like the past few days, we’ve had rain, hail, lightning and thunder and today was no exception. It’s almost a conundrum as to whether I should put on my rain jacket or not when I’m climbing a hill. I’m already working out and my body is warm. I took my jacket off and on several times. Just as I got to camp, Salamander already scoped out the best possible site she could find on a bench with little protection and the least amount of rocks. As soon as I arrived, she’s helping pitch my tent and the skies open up. It hasn’t stopped since. And I imagine I will sleep to rain splattering on my shelter all night. Along with the thunder and lightning overhead. We are perched at 11300’ so we have little relief. But I can tell you if you’re looking for a bombproof watertight tent, Gossamer “The One” is the shelter to have. Both Salamander and I own it, and it has withstood all the precipitation one can endure.
As I was walking the trail today wondering how I was going to make it another step, God showed me His love and kindness. He knew I was hurting and He used these two fishermen by having them stop to talk with me. How sweet was that? And of all people to use on the trail but men that fish. I found it ironic as I was thinking of the twelve disciples just yesterday and how many of them, in fact, were simple fishermen. Once again, I am heard. Jesus is just a thought away. When I am hurting, when I am struggling to place one foot in front of the other, He upheld me. He wants to show me how much He loves me today, tomorrow and always. What a wonderful God I serve.
The Lord makes firm the steps in the one who delights in him, he may stumble but he will not fall, for the Lord upholds him with his hand. Psalm 37: 23-24
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