Day 4: July 10, 24 Cedar Banks to Chilean Memorial 10.3 Miles

I thought we were going to have rain last night. The wind picked up, blew in a front of clouds and after three drops of rain fell on my tent, it abruptly ended. Now that’s a perfect storm in my book. No rain but it definitely cooled down. This is about the laziest backpacking I’ve been on in some time. Up and out at a quarter past eight. I’m liking this new way of doing things!

Morning Walk

The morning walk was the nicest yet. We had another minus tide so there was plenty of beach walking. Sally talked with a guide yesterday who warned her to be especially careful at the first Headlands. If the tide is up, you have to take the Overland Trail. But don’t worry, there’s a rope. A rope? For what? To help pull yourself straight up the cliff side. Well I’m quite content walking the beach and not pulling myself up any rope,with my backpack. And so we walked.

Headlands and Starfish Galore

There was another huge rock with one proud Bald Eagle guarding the sea. He turned his neck, almost like an owl, looked straight at us without any needless movement. He was so regal, staring out at the sea, like a lighthouse waiting to guide his mate home. Or maybe just looking for a meal, but maybe just maybe, his bride is soaring above and he’s keeping watch. What an incredible bird.

Atop the Rock is Bald Eagle

We walked to the Headland which was standing on wet sand but no water. There were numerous starfish attached to the rock in vivid colors of orange, purple and brown. The sea urchins were making a meal of crabs and snails, filling up until they were content. It was like walking through the Monterey Bay Aquarium without a fee and outdoors. I was intrigued by how each little creature has some unique purpose and balance in this ecosystem. How God created every last one of these sea anemones, and different versions of snails, conks, crabs and fish. It blows my mind that us humans are so complex yet can only live on land. And these tiny creatures are just as much intent on doing what they do, with or without the sea water. When the tide goes out, they are exposed to light, to air and that can be for hours at a time. They adapt to whatever the tide does, and changes within. It just boggles my mind.

Starfish & Urchin

Once we circumnavigated the rock, there was a section that had some water, and I had to get my feet wet. It was well worth it, getting my feet wet, just to witness that little piece of marine life. Honestly, I don’t mind submerging but Sally has waterproof Trail runners, and she does not want to get her shoes wet. So she walked on water, jumped from one rock to another and escaped the wrath of the sea.

Me , the Marine Biologist

And then the games began. Around the headlands was a rocky beach for the next 3-4 miles. Or at least that’s what it seemed like. I could see the next Headland and planned a path that would keep me from bouldering any longer than possible. I told Sally I was going a different route and she watched me as I submerged up to my knees. She took the boulders. I followed the seabeds that had grasses, small fish and other seaweed looking stuff floating. The shells were alive. Hermit Crabs be-bopping along, fish narrowly missing this Alcatraz walking through their neighborhood. The sand was soft under the water and not slippery as I expected. I periodically popped out of the water onto a spit of sand, and then back in the water. It gained me some distance ahead of Sally as she had to negotiate all the big boulders and rocks, but she kept her shoes pristine and dry.

Low Tide Kelp Beds & Tide Pools

I finally emerged from my water garden and back on the boulders. It went on for most the morning, boulders, rocks, and some crunching of live seaweed underfoot. It crunches when you step on it. Almost like bubble wrap. We finally came to a rocky cove and took a collective sigh. The miles are short but the stress level, at least for me, is a bit high. I feel like I’m watching every single placement of my feet with caution, making sure I don’t slip or fall or twist or snap or do something I can’t get out of. Before we left, at Cave Alava Trailhead, there was a Search & Rescue SAR Shack. On the door it read, “Be careful out in the wilderness. If you need us, it will take a long time for us to reach you.” Those words have been my motto for this trek. Don’t call SAR! I had listened to a podcast on my way here about the men and women who volunteer for SAR. My friends Curt & Atsuko have dedicated their lives to this group of foot pounders who get called out night or day, during dinner or on their way somewhere, and they drop everything to save a strangers life. It’s a true calling and takes an extra specially trained person to do what they do. I’m glad there are people like that, but I surely don’t want to be that person who needs their help! So I walk purposely, every step is planned. Well, most of the time. Let’s be honest!

Collective Sigh After Hard Days Work

After our little snack break, we continued on. Sally had looked at the map and we only had one mile to go. That’s music to my ears, even if we have to walk on boulders. The last headland had a bit of water, so we sidestepped as much as we could. There were plenty of crabs swimming in these tiny tide pools. We have been so lucky with the tides and being we came right after a new moon, it’s been definitely in our favor. We came around the final point and saw our cove, Chilean Memorial Beach. It boasts that many sea otters reside here, and with all the kelp beds, I imagine we will spot a few.

Chilean Memorial Beach

The cove is small but has a sandy beach. There were three young students sunbathing with camp chairs relaxing on the beach. We talked briefly looking for sites and asked where the Privy was? The FarOut App stated that there are sites on the way up to the privy. Sally looked at the buoys and found a Buoy marked Privy, but wasn’t biting. I walked down the beach and found a spot above high water mark, tucked into the trees with two relatively flat tent sites. I think this is home for the night.

New Camp at Chilean Beach

The plus about this place is the fresh water is directly south of us and an easy walk. A Spring is flowing from above the beach on the hilltop and the water is cold and clearish. Not brackish like some of the water we’ve captured, but not crystal clear either. Just clearish! We set up camp and I pulled out my stash of Italian Salami and Manchebo Cheese, along with dried Jackfruit. It was delicious, in the sense that we had little choice. If we were daring, we could try a little sea kelp or grass with it, but we both passed.

Sally’s Sun Art

After a few minutes of getting all my stuff placed in my new home, I took my mat and went to the beach. Not much of a walk, being I’m already here but I found a shady spot to read. Then after reading, I Kelly Baraga, took a nap. That is not my thing but it seemed like the most appropriate way to spend this lazy afternoon. Like I said earlier, I think I could get used to this kind of hiking.

Maybe Not Me K napping but Close Look-Alike

So I was thinking of all these creatures we have seen. Big and little, majestic and fragile, furry and rough around the edges, yet God created them all. Just as we are designed, I have a lot of respect for God’s ways. I know that He created us in His image and has plans for all of us. But why do we all look so different? Some are tall and bold, others are short and frumpy, some are old and gray, while others are young and pretty. So why is this what we see? The Lord says that we are not to look at the outside, but to see the inside. To really know someone is to know their heart. Sally and I have been friends for twenty years. We see each other maybe once a year to backpack together. She is fifteen years younger than me and in much better shape. She takes on boulders like she owns them. I call her my Gazelle. She’s long and lean and can do things I only wish I could do. I’m more like a tank. Strong and sturdy, slow and somewhat-steady but she always is going to wait for me. So why does she keep coming backpacking with me? I think because we know each other’s heart. And that’s what Gods sees when we are together. He laughs at our differences but marvels at our similarities. He knows that whenever we are together that we glorify Him. And that just makes Him smile. So next time when you look in the mirror, look inside and see your heart. Because in the end, that’s all that really matters to our Lord. And that’s what’s truly important to the rest of us.

Me & My Gazelle Sally

“But the Lord said to Samuel, “Do not consider his appearance or his height, for I have rejected him. The Lord does not look at the things people look at. People look at the outward appearance, but the Lord looks at the heart.””
‭‭1 Samuel‬ ‭16‬:‭7‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 3: July 9, 24 Yellow Banks to Cedar Banks 11.8 Miles

Those waves crashing all night long is a game changer. No need for Melatonin or CBD Gummies. Just lay your head down and sleep like a baby. This morning I had oatmeal with my coffee. I’m not a big fan of oatmeal but this was a new packet with freeze dried blueberries and sounded good when I was purchasing it at REI. But after all, it’s just oatmeal and I can take it or leave it. After eating, I went to our lookout and checked for the seal. It appears he went back to the sea to live another day. I’m so glad.

Looking Down the Cove from Yellow Banks

We were hiking the beach just past 8am and the tide was out. There’s bright green grasses that are probably a version of sea kelp. Light weight and slimy to walk on. We made it around the first point, another Headlands. It’s just another rock scramble, reminiscent of the AT.

Some Sea Kelp & Scrub

Once around N. Headlands, I imagined we’d be back walking on sandy beaches drinking margaritas. Think again. The guidebook mentioned we’d have miles of rocks and boulders, and they weren’t exaggerating. For the entire morning, we were climbing boulders, walking through rock fields, and when you get tired of that, you can always walk through tide pools that are just as treacherous. The most interesting part of the morning was Crab City. Every step you take, there are tiny and not so tiny crabs walking, scurrying and sliding away from us giants. They are so funny because they believe they’re hiding from us. I wanted so badly to see them, know where they were, so I didn’t crush their little crab house on their backs.

Little Crabs Scurrying Around

As Sally approached a poor unsuspecting crab, she must’ve scared the little guy. He slid into a tide pool and got gobbled up by a sea urchin. Nature at its best, or worse, however you tend to view it. I guess that sums up life on the Wild West coast.

Sea Kelp

Then to make matters worse, Sally was ahead again, and must have startled this big fat raccoon. Evidently he didn’t hear me coming around the bend, as he was be-lining right towards me. This guy definitely hasn’t missed any meals. He sees me, shakes his head in disgust and heads up the boulder, far away from my route of climbing.

Boulders and More Boulders

For no less than three hours, we scrambled, climbed, rock hopped and just dreamed of sandy beaches. I thought I had seen one up ahead but as we approached, it was filled with flat rocks that covered up any facsimile of sand. Finally after our longest and toughest climb of the morning, a full on put your poles away and hang onto anything that looks solid, we arrived at, yes you guessed it, a rocky cove. It was close to noon and we had covered a whopping four miles in a little more than three hours! That’s some slow miles. We decided to stop and eat something, and prayed for some easier terrain ahead.

After fueling, we walked around the cove, over a large fallen tree and two deer were walking directly towards me. I stopped to see how close they would come. Sally was right behind me and they looked, looked again and kept walking. They have zero fear of us and can walk on the rocky beach like they were made for it! Well, I think they are, made for walking on rocky soil, gravelly dirt, sides of mountains and about anything else you throw at them. Me, well I’m still looking for that sandy beach with Tiki Huts and Cold Beer!

Deers and Beach Rocks

One last headlands to conquer and that utopia called Cedar Banks should be in view. Just before we made it, there was another sighting of a Bald Eagle. He was perched atop a rocky point looking for his daily provision of fish or crab or whatever tasty morsel he could scoop from the sea. We made it around the slippery green slime without incident and arrived at our beautiful beach. And boy oh boy, was I ready!

Bald Eagle Atop Rocky Ledge

Cedar Creek was flowing but not the spring water we had yesterday. But still it was fresh and usable. Sally and I split up in search of landing zones. The beach is low with a rocky incline that leads to campsites. I looked a bit and found a site next to the creek but was quite windy and unprotected. Sally wasn’t impressed and continued her search southbound on the beach. About 2-3 football fields down the beach, up a rocky embankment, she found the sweetest little campsite.

Cedar Creek

We set up, did some housecleaning, searched for bathroom possibilities and I started blogging. The sun is brilliant with a good breeze, the waves crashing and the beach is full on sand! This is my little slice of paradise. Oh, and it comes with a resident raccoon. As I was writing this, she came over to inspect me. How do I know it’s a she? She’s much smaller than the raccoon from earlier today. He was most definitely a he raccoon.

Our Resident Raccoon

Before long, a fog bank started pouring in. It was the first time on this journey that the fog hovered over our campsite. Most days we could see it on the horizon but never approaching our camp. Well sounds like an early night and maybe I’ll sleep a bit earlier. The beauty of backpacking, no really jobs to do but get from point A to Point B, build a house, make dinner and look for water. Here on the beach, you may wonder, where is the water coming from? We all know you can’t drink saltwater and I have no way of desalinizing the water. But you know what? There are springs flowing from the sides of the hills. Where you would least suspect, a creek is bubbling up from nothing. That just blows my mind and that’s how our God works. Nothing too complicated for Him to create. Thank you Lord for the drinking and most of all, the living waters of life.

Me and My Beach

“I will make rivers flow on barren heights, and springs within the valleys. I will turn the desert into pools of water, and the parched ground into springs.”
‭‭Isaiah‬ ‭41‬:‭18‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 2: July 8, 24 Cape Alava to Yellow Banks Beach 10.9 Miles

First night of sleep in my tent for quite awhile. I think my last time in “The One” was September 2023 on the AT. I’m not counting Snow-camping being I slept in my friend’s tent. But there is something magical about staking out your favorite one and sleeping inside its clean mesh lines. Yes, I agree. I’m a bit off kilter but you people who backpack can agree. It is extra special!

The One & Only One

Based on the incredible miles we hiked today, our decision to sleep in well past our typical wake-up time is understood. Honestly there is even a sounder reason for this and it’s based on the Tides. We experience two High Tides and two Low Tides daily. Our low or sometimes minus tide occurs around 9am. Based on the -1.5 minus tide at 9:03am, we decided to head out later this morning.

Sea Barnacles Attached to Driftwood

We had breakfast with our coffee and sat watching Mother Nature wake up. Yesterday evening, Sally had her first oh-crap moment when a snake slithered past her open tent. She looked around trying to ward off the deadly beast of a snake from certainly making its way into her sleeping bag and pad. A reasonable and accommodating new home for the night, so I thought. Luckily it hurried along and went back into the forested area that it came from. In the morning no snakes slithered by, but we were greeted by two Mama Deers and two fawns. They obviously are not worried about us hikers and stayed feet from us, eating their curds and whey. Well more like grasses and leaves. Before long, a large rabbit hops over beside me and as he gets comfortable, a large Raven flys in the middle of this Wild Kingdom moment and lands on the ground. This is some kind of wonderful! After gawking at this sight for a bit, I pack up and scratch my head, where in the world have I landed?

Extra Special Guests

Our beach looks so different during a minus tide. There are rock islands about a quarter mile off shore, that yesterday would’ve been a definite swim. This morning, if you can walk over kelp beds, slippery rocks, slick algae and navigating crabs and such creatures, you could walk to the island. We chose to walk south on the beach, less crowded with slippery things.

Tip Toe Through the Fallen Trees and Beachy Rocks

It’s not your typical SoCal beach with sandy beaches, endless surf and umbrellas in the sand. It’s much more rugged with polished rocks, thick spongy kelp and seaweed and just enough sand to make you yearn for more. All of the comments on FarOut mention rocky encounters of another kind. It was slow going and I was glad we had all day to hike six long miles!

Our Hiking Trail

We got into our stride and Sally moved up to take the lead. No surprise there. I meandered and talked to the other hikers as Sally looked for beach treasures along the shore. I had taken a picture without realizing I had captured a Bald Eagle. As I talked to the trio who were showing me the Bear Tracks on the beach, they asked if I saw the massive Bald Eagle on top of the rock. No, where is he? They pointed out the magnificent bird, still perched, still searching for his feast for the day. Go figure, another sign that God is showing me all that He has placed ahead.

To the Right of the Big Rock is a Smaller Spire with Bald Eagle Atop of It

I caught up with Sally and pleaded for a break. Much like my Union Walkers of Spain, I was now the one protesting for a needed rest period! We found a spot at Sand Point, sat down in the shade of many lichen covered trees and devoured our much needed fuel. Okay, I’ve only hiked three miles but it’s taken close to two hours and I was ready. We admired the beach we had conquered, and wondered when we would find real beach, with soft sand and lapping waves? Ask and you shall receive. We stood up and exited our protected little slice of paradise, cut the corner on Sand Point and popped out onto a sandy beach cove that went on for at least a mile.

Sally Overlooking Sandy Point

It was so unexpected, walking on a truly sandy beach. The waves were breaking far from us as the tide was still out. We walked along the beach for a good period of time, watching mirages evaporate in the sun razes. It was as if we were walking on water. But as soon as it appeared, quickly it would disappear. All that was left behind was a glimmer of water over the wet sand. The waves were groaning, I’ve never heard that before. Sally mentioned it this morning, how loud the surf sounded when it broke. Then I heard it with my own ears, a sound like a freight train shooting across the water. So eerie, yet so strong, at the same time. Such a wild and wonderful place we are exploring.

Sandy Point & Beach

Up ahead was a Red Warning. I was thinking it was red because they didn’t want campers sleeping there but it was an advisory to not pass if the tide was above 5’. Oops, I checked the Tide Table and sure enough, it was on its way to Five Feet. Well of course Kelly, this is your Motto. What was suppose to be easy peasy has now turned into a rock scramble! Headlands is a rock that jettisons out along the coast. We hit it just right. There was a bit of a scramble up and over a handful of times, but nothing life-threatening. I’m glad we did it before the tide got much higher because there would be a couple of areas that would surely be impassable, without submerging. Both Sally and I were able to time the waves and barely got our shoes wet. Well they are called “Water Shoes” for a reason.

Yellow Lemon Squeezer

Once around the Headland, Yellow Banks was visible. It’s a protected cove with the first bit of fresh water we’ve seen since Cape Alava. We dropped our packs and filled up with fresh spring water that was good, clear and cold. Then we went scouting for sites. I stayed on the beach looking for buoys what typically indicates probable campsites. Sally had read on the FarOut App that there were sites up above on a ridge that overlooked the beach. She headed up Scary Mountain, while I kept scouring the beach. Gosh, I love hiking with Sally. She does all the technical stuff and I take the easy route. We both met back and she looked like Scary Mountain lived up to my bestowed name. After explaining the ropes and slipperier snot that she climbed in search of a possible campsite, she was relieved that I found something on ground level. Thank goodness. We grabbed our gear and walked to our new home. It was in the trees, a bit damp and tight for two tents. After having lunch, I told Sally I hadn’t checked any further south, if she wanted to see if there was another, more proper spot. I finished my lunch and she found a bigger site just a few minutes later. And off we went.

Buoys Mark our Home

Ended up it was equipped with a hammock. Sally went to take a swing and down went the hammock with Sally in it. First Turtle of the trip! We set up our tents and chilled on this private beach, that as of now, appears we have it to ourselves! Now I’ll just wait for another whale sighting.

Hammock Failure 101

We built our new homes and Sally reclined to read her book. I headed to the beach and went into the water. Washington water is much colder than NorCal. But it felt great on my feet, knees and thighs. And that’s as far as I could mustard. Then I rinsed out and baked in the glorious sunshine.

Great Campsite Overlooking Yellow Banks Beach

Dinner was Beef Pasta with Bread and Butter. I packed in some dehydrated Margarita Mix and Sally had some Nectar of the Gods. As I was finishing up dinner, I had my awe-crap moment as two slugs had landed on my bag of bread! Thank goodness it was protected because them Banana Slugs aren’t carrying that home. I shoed them off, packed up my food and hoped forage better evening. Sally wanted to head down to get more water, as I cleaned up and put my food away. A few minutes later, she was back.

Beached Seal

I can’t get water! Why can’t you get water Sally? There a seal laying on the beach. Okay, is he an Elephant Seal? No but I’ve heard accounts of seals attacking people. You should come with me. Okay, but I’ve never heard of a seal lunging at a hiker. We head back down to the creek, and sure as you know what, there’s a seal between the creek and us. Hmm, he doesn’t look too furious! In fact he isn’t moving much at all. We decided it was safe to proceed and I inspected the seal a bit closer. He’s alive but barely. He is tagged with a Green Flipper Tag J839. Quin and I had just toured the Marine Mammal Center in Sausalito and they told us typically seals are tagged if they have been rescued and released. This guy was in trouble before. With our expert seal training not, we determined he was just one old seal and needed to rest on the beach. We left him alone and gathered Sally’s water.

Still Napping – He’s Tired

So today’s count: 4 Deer-2 Female and 2 Fawns, a large Rabbit, Bald Eagle, and a an old Seal. That’s not too bad for a day on the beach. As I sit here, I wonder what God is up to? Why am I here and what does He need to teach me?

“Search me, God, and know my heart; test me and know my anxious thoughts. See if there is any offensive way in me, and lead me in the way everlasting.”
‭‭Psalms‬ ‭139‬:‭23‬-‭24‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Day 1: July 7, 24 on the Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT) Olympic National Park (ONP) at Cape Alava Camp 8.2

After a bit of a hiatus from backpacking, I am back on the trail. This is a place I have never hiked before besides a day trip many moons ago. Olympic National Park is on the Olympic Peninsula of northern Washington and tucked away from civilization. The Hoh Indian Tribe still resides here, placing gill nets, living off the land and offering a few secluded trails on the beach that you can walk. It’s so much different than hiking in the mountains, desserts or valleys. The breeze is always an added bonus, the temperature is a perfect 60-70 and the sun is shining. It truly is a place untouched by mankind and offers scenery that is, well just brilliant.

Sea Urchins & Sea Kelp

My friend Sally met me yesterday at Kalaloch Lodge where we got reacquainted and talked about our next week of backpacking on the beach. I hiked the West Coast Trail in 2006, almost twenty years ago. This is much different than our hikes of the past. Typically Sally and I do things that get our heart rate up, climbing tens of thousands of feet and walking long, arduous miles. This backpacking trip will be none of that. We will follow the tidal charts and comb the beaches for sand dollars, beach glass and sea urchins. And if we are lucky, spot a whale! We can only hope.

Kalaloch Lodge

After packing up our food and libations, we drove the 100 plus miles, parking my car at Oil City Trailhead TH, our planned exit point, driving to Forks to deposit our second leg of food, then off to Cave Alava TH. Following the Google GPS navigation we headed down a logging road for, let’s say close to an hour, and stopped abruptly at a locked gate. There was no way around, no other options but to turn around and regroup. After getting out my ONP Map, should’ve done that first, we found a long way around route to our desired trailhead, Cave Alava. Close to two plus hours later, we arrived, and only a half-hour behind schedule.

Overlooking PNWT

We had lunch, a tasty IPA Beer that my friends Rob and Patty bestowed on me, and we were ready to hit the trail. There were tons of people at the TH with only ten campsites up for grabs. I assumed hikers had come out for the day, were out on a weeklong excursion like Sally and I planned, or we would be scavenging for a place to pitch our tents. Needless to say, there were plenty of sites to go around.

The PNWT is a fairly new route that extends from Glacier NP to Olympic NP. It is close to 1250 miles and hugs the border between US and Canada. It’s quite rugged, has much route finding and is about as primitive as any trail I have hiked. But this small section that we are headed to is splendid.

Trailhead at Lake Ozette

The first 3.4 miles is basically boardwalks with steps, some gravel but mostly old wooden planks that are slowly degrading. Don’t get me wrong, most of it is in pretty darn good shape but you just need to be weary of the few boards that have rotted or have returned to nature. The trees are thick, covered in moss and lichen and reach the sky upward. There is plenty of ferns, soft leaves and greenery everywhere.

Ferns, Mosses and Lodgepoles

We passed a few hikers on their way out who talked of brackish water, and slow moving streams with little water. Dang we have an ocean full of water but nothing much to drink. The walk in was nice, nothing too difficult but enough to get me feeling like I was back where my heart sings and the Lord blesses me. Oh how I love to backpack.

Backpacking Once Again

Before long we reached the coast. The sun was shining and the tide was up. We actually reached high tide just as we landed on the surf. This is good because it shows you where and where not to place your tent. Sally found us a nice home in the trees, just above the high tide mark and we settled. Then we walked some more.

Sally at Cape Alava

The beach here to the north of us forms a point. There’s big rock islands just off the shoreline, barking seals across from us on another island and a few sea lions playing in the surf. We headed back to have dinner. On the menu was Bison, Biscuits and Gravy with a huge loaf of homemade Sourdough Bread and Creamy Butter. Patty also blessed Sally and I with huge two pound round of tasty incredible hunk of sesame seeded bread. Thanks Patty!

Once we had dinner, we walked back out as the tide was turning and experienced a minus tide. Rocks that we hadn’t seen before were exposed, tidal pools were abound and as Sally walked back to the Cape Alava Point, she saw her first whales migrating north. One of the hikers pointed out the water spurts and then the big whale broke out of the water and breached just enough to make everyone’s day complete! Now that’s a fine first day!

Sunset from my Tent

As I go to sleep, I thank my lucky stars that I have a husband who promotes my joy and passion to get outside. And the fact that I have faithful and God-fearing friends that accompany me. With the miles that we will embark upon next week, it will not be tough, yet it will not be in vain. This walk will be slow, little distance covered but will cause me to pause and ponder this moment. I know that my Lord has created me to pursue this purpose, to love his splendor and creation, and to see this through His eyes.

Therefore, my dear brothers and sisters, stand firm. Let nothing move you. Always give yourselves fully to the work of the Lord, because you know that your labor in the Lord is not in vain. 1 Corinthians 15:58 NIV

Day 32:June 12,’24 O Pedrouzo to Santiago Today: 12.5 miles Total Stats: 457.8 m & 736.8 km

Wait just a minute! I thought the Frances Route was 500 miles? Well in fact it is 485 miles so yes, we shorted it just a bit. Oh boy, so does that mean we need to start all over?!?! Please don’t tell George because I’m sure he’ll have us going back from the start and redoing it. NOT! There is something wrong with my math so I’m just going to say all miles were covered, but maybe 27.2. Fair enough.

That’s a Lot of Kilometers from St. Jean Peid de Port

Lucky for us, our final day on the trail was a sunshiny kind of day. What a blessing! For my faithful followers, you may remember last year when we arrived in Santiago, it was pouring down cats and dogs! Not this go-around. Just a picture perfect day in paradise.

Good Morning Almost Santiago

We had a great breakfast made especially for us. It’s a family run business, created in memory of Grandma Amiuka. Now Mom, Sister and Neice run the place and they can cook. George filled up on one of everything. I did much the same. Heaven knows we will be burning it off on our Forestall March to Santiago.

You’ve Got to Be Kidding Me! That is all for Us? Luckily George Has an Appetite Too

Once outside the confines of our little piece of paradise, the birds were singing, and the streets were empty. Maybe we were late to the party as we didn’t see but just a few pilgrims. It took us half a mile to intersect the trail and then, the flood gates opened up. There were gourds of people walking.

George and All His Friends

The trail was much like the past few days. Lots of trees guarding us and eucalyptus leaves littering the ground But the one thing that was missing? Everyone seemed a bit subdued. I know for myself, there was much reflection on the past five weeks. The miles we have covered, the sights we have shared and the people we have met along the way.

Walking Through the Hood

The one thing that wasn’t missing this morning was the hills. George had read the description and said it was only 300-400 feet of elevation change. The first climb was well over 400’. Hey, where did you find those stats on this mornings elevation profile? He read it aloud and that’s when I understood. It’s meters not feet, crazy! So this was just the warm up.

Warm-Up Early Morning

There were vendors lining the road with all things Camino. Our first seller was wildling sticks and carving wooden shells. That was unique. I’m a sucker for a local artist creating something beautiful. So one wooden shell was bought, carefully wrapped up and placed in my pack.

Local Artisan – Not George but the Other Guy

Once atop the hill, another gentleman had Camino memorabilia. But what really caught my eye was the very official looking stamp with wax and a silver insignia. I stood in line and was thrilled to get this very special mark on my Pilgrims Passport. Now I only had two spaces left to fill my booklet. I left one spot for the church and one from the final authority of The Way, the Credential Officer.

Placing the Official Insignia on my Pilgrims Passport

With still another 6-7 miles to go, George and I decided it was time to stop at the Cafe. Being it was before 10AM, Cortado would be the normal choice but this was our last hoorah. What do you think? Beer it was! And to make matters worse or better depending on your perspective, half of the others were doing the same. We were ready to start celebrating now!

Celebratory Morning Beer Drinking

Walking into Santiago was a culmination of long sweaty days, many tough miles and total extreme exuberation. After stopping for our final coffee break on trail, George and I were like energized bunnies. We had seen many of our hiking buddies and planned to hook up with the rest this afternoon.

The Three Musketeers from Arizona with Mark & Norman, not to be Confused with Mark & Jay

Around noon, we had our first glimpse of Santiago. It’s interesting because we were entering the city from a completely different direction and perspective, than last year. Before long, we landed atop the final hill that connected with the Friendship Trail. How appropriate. We saw a couple that we’ve been bumping into since Sarria. We all took pictures and continued down the long steep hill to Santiago. Before we knew it, we were entering the Cathedral Square with a Musician playing his Bagpipes. How appropriate is that!

All the Pilgrim’s, Bicyclists & Bagpiper in the Arch

Now what? We hugged, we cried, and we congratulated each other! Then we answered all the obligatory questions of the tourists about where we walked from, when we started and why would we do such a thing! Someone offered to take our picture and then, yes, we walked again, to the Compostela Office.

We Did it Baby
In Front of Santiago de Compostela

It’s impossible to put this all in words. To convey the sense of excitement, the accomplishment to have walked the Frances with my husband, and the relief that tomorrow I can throw away my thoroughly used and abused trail runners! George and I found a Bar and purchased a large foamy mug of Beer. And then we sat, for a very very long time.

Got her Done
George Thrilled at 0.00 Kilometers! The Frances is Done, Kaputt & Engraved in the Chronicles of History

The wonderful, supportive and caring people we met along the way, all gathered back at the Cathedral for a final group photo. It was somewhat melancholy in the sense that, we as a collective group, will never be together again. As we all gathered, there was laughter, celebration and just plain joy for what we had all overcome. I think of Mark and his extreme ankle injury before Leon. For Jay supporting and encouraging him throughout his journey. For Danny who hugged us so tight, and told us we were his dearest friends on this walk. Oinko and Roy who started only five days ago but who we have such a kindred friendship emerging. All the others, Mr Jansport Ken, Ellyssa and Cameron, the Three Musketeers from Arizona, my very first bunk mate Caroline and countless others. Gosh, I’ll miss these people the most! And to Sharon and Paul from Australia. I am still sporting da’ Koala Bear you bestowed upon me. Keep on trucking. You’ll be there in just another day or two.

Our Fellow Pilgrims- May the Peace We felt on this Journey Continue for a Lifetime

After our photo, a few of us stopped for, yep you guessed it, one last beer. Then George and I had a lovely dinner of Lobster Paella with Oinko and Roy. We talked until the sun went down, which around these parts is darn late. And then George and I took a taxi back to our lovely room and packed for the long journey home. So as you guessed, this concludes the daily blog for the time being. But the ones who know me, and by this point you should, I’ll be back on another adventure before too long.

Drinking Pilgrims to the End

I cannot finish without acknowledging the fact that both George and I could’ve never completed this journey without the overwhelming presence of our Lord and Savior. I do not know where your walk with Jesus is or if you truly know Him like He knows you? But what I am absolutely certain of is that any personal goal or achievement has much to do with His paving the way, opening the doors and placing the passion on your heart.

Santiago de Compostela

Whatever route you have chosen, or walk you intend to embark on, just ask our Heavenly Father to be there with you. That is all He really wants. To be loved just as He loves. And isn’t that really what we desire?

Looking Over Santiago

So for now I’ll put up my pack, go home to my family and friends, and pray that God will continue transforming my heart. I can only imagine the plans He has and the trails that are waiting. May the love of God be with you and may you always feel His presence. Much love to you all and thank you from the bottom of my heart for your never ending prayers and support. Until I write again, happy trails.

Where Will His Path Take You?
And all you need to do is take that step of faith and follow Him.

For you are the light of the world. Matthew 5:14

Day 31:June 11,’24 Arzua to O Pedrouzo Today: 12.5 miles Total Stats: 443.4 m & 713.6 km

I love sleeping in. No alarm clock and only the sun rising and shining in our room. That is the wake-up I prefer. Oh, and I can’t forget. A few birds chirping to welcome the new day. Coffee was brewing downstairs. All I had to do was brush my teeth, get dressed and pack my bag. It’s such an easy life walking from town to town. This is going to be hard to give up. Maybe I’ll consider walking home. Hmm, that would be more like a swim, so probably just stick to my plan and fly by way of Delta!

The City of Arzua

After our Continental Breakfast of fresh squeezed OJ, Plain Greek Yogurt, Croissant and Coffee, we were ready to hit the road. The morning was brisk but it looked like the sun would shine, eventually.

Morning Walk out of Town

Today we started with a downhill! That was unexpected. George’s knee wasn’t warmed up yet, so he wasn’t too excited about this change of affairs. Luckily it only lasted for a bit and then we were back to our normal uphill trudge.

Local Artisan Making Sculptures from Wood

The trees were thick, covering the trail with overhanging branches and plenty of shade. The fields were grassy with sleepy cows and lots of cats on the hunt. I don’t think these cats have homes. If so, they wouldn’t look scrawny and be so skid-dish. But they are cats so it tends to be what and who they are.

Not a Cat but a Lot Nicer

After a bit, we stopped for proper coffee. Jay was sitting, sipping on his coffee, waiting for Mark. He waved us over and we caught up on all things Camino. They plan to meet their wives in Santiago tomorrow and want a group picture at the Cathedral. Mark, Jay, Sharon, Jeff, Caroline and Joanna and I all met at Orisson’s. It was my first day on the Camino. There are a few others that we have met along the way but it’s remarkable that there are at least ten of us that plan to finish on the very same day. Incredible!

Day One at Orisson’s

After coffee, we all took off. Jay was trying to catch up with Mark, who unbeknownst to us, had managed to pass us. George and I sauntered along and found a super dark forest of trees to inspect. As we were taking pictures, Danny came along.

Beautiful Sherwood Forest

He is a Tour Guide and has been hanging near us since Leon. We hugged one another, congratulated each other on our very near accomplishment. This is what I’m going to miss the most. These special people we have bonded with.

As we continued, Roy and Ornit caught up with us. We walked the trail together for much of the morning. Ornit and Roy have been married for over 30 years with four children. They have their home just outside Tel Aviv and Ornit teaches at the University. She is such a kind soul, loves the outdoors, hiking, yoga, pilates and the Lord. George and Roy were carrying on about this and that. I’m thinking a trip to Israel is in the not so distant future!

Our Friends from Israel – Roy & Ornit, Me & George

We stopped for lunch and talked about the culinary experiences we’ve had or not, in Spain. Now granite, Roy and Ornit have been here for less than a week so I’m thinking, they haven’t had the opportunity to eat like George and I. But the one thing we all agree on is, Spanish food is lacking in spice. Please can we get a little bit of herbs and garlic to these dishes? Yes, I’ve had some darn good meals but it’s not as often as I’d like. And yes, I’m a bit of a foodie so this is important. I am looking forward to Santiago and taking Adrian, the CEO from 1930 Boutique Hotel up on a couple of his grand recommendations. We all plan to find at least one real good culinary experience in Santiago.

Ana Selling Her Art

With only a few miles left, we parted ways. The rest of the day was long vistas, to the mountains and beyond. The views are starting to open up again, which is a delight to me. The clouds were a bit ominous but never quite materialized into more than just dark grey clouds. We climbed a few hundred feet making our total today, close to most days, about 1500’-2000’ of ups and downs. Nothing we haven’t encountered in the past few weeks.

Love the Open Vistas

As we entered town, and everyone was scrambling to find their beds for the night. Being I had already made reservations, it was a matter of getting to our home for the night. Actually this will be our final two nights. And how blessed we were.

Heading Through Town

Hotel Amiuka was built two years ago. Ultra modern and at the far end of town. It overlooks the distant mountains afar and fields of wildflowers. When we arrived, I wasn’t sure what we would find inside. But let me tell you, like the first place we stayed in Saint Jean Peid de Port, this equals it. It’s like stepping into paradise! What an amazing place to finish our final days on the Camino. And guess what? We met a couple from El Dorado Hills, Frank & Mari, neighbors from California. They literally live twenty minutes from our home. Yes, this truly is a small world!

Life is Good

Only one more day and this journey will be completed. Yes, for the time being, your morning or afternoon blog reading will commence. Unfortunately my real life is not as inspiring as my walking or daily hiking adventures. I hope that I can, someday, write about my everyday love, in a way, that I share my daily walks with you. That is something I really need prayer about.

Writing the Blog

Our amazing God in Heaven has bigger plans for our everyday life encounters. My constant reminder is why not have a daily life that is full of Him? I have met so many people along the way who, in fact, live a life of service and love. I so want that! With only one more day to go on this walk, I ponder, what does my life look like after I complete this? Is it back to what I did before or will it be different? I can only hope that this spurs on something bigger and better than what I left.

What Do You Lord Have Planned for this Pilgrim?

Day 30:June 10,’24 Palas de Rei to Arzua Today: 19.7 miles Total Stats: 430.9 m & 693.5 km

Let’s just call it 20 miles. By the time we walked for dinner and back, it was well over twenty miles, with hills, both ways! Oh, I’m pooped. But we need to start from the beginning. Up and out by 7am and down to the local cafe for Espresso. She just put the croissants, both plain and chocolate in the oven, but we had a full day ahead. So no croissants this morning. Well, not yet.

Nice Sunrise over Palas de Rei

First things first, I messed up on the mileage calculations. For some reason, today was a 14-15 mile day, not a twenty mile slog. My math must’ve been off a smidge. As George would say, imagine that! Looking at the elevation profile, it didn’t look like much ?!?! But it was.

Leaving the Sleepy Town

The walk out of town was pretty mundane. Although for a the little town, it was much bigger than I thought. I found the Town Hall, the Center Square and many more restaurants. We followed a few Polgrims but for whatever reason, there weren’t the gourds of people like the last couple of days. I think the new walkers were nursing their wounds and calling taxis. It happens.

For June, it’s Still Very Green

We followed the road for a minute, and then entered the forest. There are tons of Eucalyptus Trees and I think I’ve figured out why they were planted here. They serve as a wind screen. It was howling this morning. The turbines on top of the hills were turning, and there was a cold wind from the north. Lucky for me, the sun was shining and I was planning on warming up from the uphill projectory. Climbing has a way of taking the chill out of one!

Love these Trees

We passed a Cafe or two and I finally had to make the command decision and stop for fuel. This nice little place in San Xulian was just the right stop. The gal Shannon who we met last night was eating breakfast there. The Bacon looked like actual bacon, which is saying a lot because bacon in Spain, is not anything like bacon in the US! I need that. I walked up to the counter and ordered bacon and eggs, and George got his fresh squeezed OJ, a Chocolate Croissant with a Banana. We both got what we were hankering for. Oh my gosh, two fried eggs with bright orange yolks and the best bacon, hands down, that I’ve had on trail. I’m not sure what they did with that pig, but man oh man alive, that was scrumptious!

Heading out after Breakfast

After my yummy breakfast, I was ready to carve out some miles. The terrain was a lot of up with little downs, open spaces with forested areas, covered trails with eucalyptus leaves on the ground and just a beautiful morning.

Gorgeous Day on the Trail

We saw Mr. Jansport who I found out is Ken, his daughter Elyssa and Cameron. Nice to put a name to this traveling trio. I met a gal and her family from Argentina who are new followers of my blog. That’s always fun. And ran into many of our favorite people on the trail.

New Subscribers I Met from Argentina

The morning was perfect, even though we had some climbing. The trail was perfectly manicured. We did go through a bit of an industrial area with a Junk Yard. That was the first car graveyard we’ve seen. In fact George mentioned that we haven’t seen a single car broken down on the side of the road. I guess that’s a good thing because I also haven’t seen a single tow truck or AAA, except for the Semi-Truck Tow at the crash scene, weekend ago.

Our First Delay on Trail- Trash Truck Blocking our Route

We crossed a beautiful bridge over Rio Furelos in the town of Furelos. It was one of the prettiest little towns that I’ve seen in quite sometime. We huffed and puffed and made it to Melide when George started hankering for real food. I had just talked with the 3 Musketeers, don’t know their real names about eating some Octopus. Lo and behold, we arrive in Melide and one of the restaurants are giving samplers out. I try a piece and tell George it tastes like chicken. He thinks he’s biting into a piece of cheese, but we all know it’s octopus! And we grab a table.

Bridge over Rio Furelos

Probably the first real restaurants that we sat down inside for lunch. We typically have Cafe-Bar type establishments but not today. I order, you guessed it, Octopus and Pimentos and George has Steak and Fries. We both indulge in Beer. Our friends from Iowa show up and sit with us super good lunch we all had.

Octopus Cafe

Being we are only halfway, we get a move-on. We walk through Melide and manage to make it without getting run over. Lots of traffic in town. We still have another nine miles to go and both George and I are not feeling too motivated.

The Sun is Bright Out Here

Lots of ups and downs. It is much like the PUDS (pointless ups and downs) of the Appalachian Trail. we run into the 3 Musketeers again. They are actually slower than us. There’s not many people we pass, but these three are pretty darn slow. After a stop for Mineral Water, Soda and Water without Gas, we make our last and final stop at the Beer Garden. It’s hot and we need some yeast, barley and hops to power us up the final hump. After two large frosty mugs of Cervesa, we finish up our day.

Typical Towns We Pass Today

We notice a group of kids with small packs and think they must be walking home from school. Wrongo-Dongo they are a group of 30 High School kids from Madrid, walking the Camino. They started in Sarria and plan to finish the same day as us. Once George told them where we started from, they are quite enamored. Now we are Super Stars in their eyes.

Teenagers from Madrid

Nearly 5pm and 19.7 miles later, we make it to Arzúa. All I want is a shower, a beer and dinner, in that order. Wish is granted. I had looked at our Wise Pilgrim app and found a hotel that everyone was raving about called 1930 Boutique Hotel. It has a restaurants I’m thinking we should go there for dinner. After our beer, we head over. Adrian, the CEO who can’t be older that 30, explains that the only people who can eat here are guests of the hotel. After he explains that most everything is closed because it’s Monday, he sees my disappointment and escorts us upstairs to his very fine dining establishment.

1906 Boutique Hotel

I am impressed. The waitress comes out and shares the menu with us and we order Tempura Vegetables with Grilled Steak and Potatoes. Then she pours the wine and gives us a shot of Beet Juice with Garlic and Olive Oil. Oh my word, it is so refreshing and we slug that down. Our bread comes with Truffle Butter and then dinner. I have come to the conclusion that Galicia is my most favorite place to dine after leaving France. The food we have had in the past couple of days is Michelin Star worthy.

Bottoms Up with Beet Juice

What a day we had. The scenery was spectacular, the terrain was tough, the mileage too much, yet we have come closer to Santiago now than any day previously. We are less than a marathon away! And we will break that up into two more days. No race now just slow and steady. What an amazing day it has been and the hope for tomorrow!

Not only that, but we rejoice in our sufferings, knowing that suffering produces endurance, and endurance produces character, and character produces hope, and hope does not put us to shame, because God’s love has been poured into our hearts through the Holy Spirit who has been given to us. Romans 5:3-5

Day 29: June 9, ‘24 Portomarin to Palas de Rei Today: 16.9 miles Total Stats: 414.2 m & 665.2 km

We’ve walked over 400 miles in the past month! That’s why my feet are tough as nails. Walking over rocks and gravel, with the exception of slippery marbles, doest phase me any longer. No rock plate needed. The bottom of my souls are made for walking! Even George’s tender feet are getting callouses. Imagine that!

Leaving Portomarin

As we were getting ready this morning, George reviewed our exit plan and said it was a tricky route out of here. Most of the time it’s pretty straightforward but we are off trail and there’s a bit of navigating to get us back on track. Lucky for us, when we left the confines our plush apartment, there was a gaggle of pilgrims leaving too. So we followed suit and hoped the leader was going the right way. Yep, looks good because there are yellow arrows and we are headed back across the river.

Fellow Pilgrims Enroute to Find “The Way“

Again, we have a morning climb. I suppose just about anytime you are near a river, there’s going to be a hillside or rather a mountain, to head up. With our sticks fully extended, we started matching uphill.

Up the Hill to Grandmothers House We Go- Well Someone’s Grandma Lives Here

Today was another cold and blustery day. I was thinking it would eventually warm up but after my first hour of sweating and being cold to the bone, I gave in. I’m changing into my warm black Smart Wool pullover. I love this thing! If you haven’t tried Smart Wool, it is the best clothing purchase you can make. There’s many different thicknesses, but I usually go with a mid-weight. It doesn’t stink, it wicks away sweat and it keeps you plenty warm. I always have at least one layer, on my body, at all times. Regressing, now back to the trail!

Black Smart Wool Shirt & Black Tights- The Bomb in Warmth

Once I had proper clothing on, I was on the hunt for espresso and something to eat. There was a fork on the trail, one to the left and another, straight on. I could see what looked like an Albergue ahead so I chose to go straight. Well it appears that everyone else and their mother had the same idea. There was a line of pilgrims getting coffee and food. George snagged us a table and I waited in line.

Awesome Cafe in the Middle of Nowhere Spain

The Barista was a well-oiled machine. As you place your order, he’s making your drink. No Cappuccino or Cortado but he’ll make me Cafe con Leche and give me an extra shot of espresso. That’ll work fine. I ordered George his most favorite Chocolate Croissant and I had Eggs and Fried Potatoes. That’s wonderful. I haven’t had Fried Potatoes for breakfast in Spain. I sat down and within minutes I had Fried Eggs with French Fries. Hmm, well at least I got my potatoes! And they had hot sauce, so all was not lost.

Eggs, French Fries & Hot Sauce with my Coffee and Extra Shot of Espresso

We, along with the masses of Pilgrims, headed back up the hill. Today was about a 2000’ climb covering four to six miles. Nothing too crazy, just a consistent uphill march. I ran into my Iowa Friends. The daughter Lana wanted to show me what she crocheted last night. A shell just like the one I had on my pack. What a compliment!

Lana and Her Crochet Shell

We walked for quite a distance, talking about her plans for the summer. Both her and her Mom Lori are Spanish Teachers in the States. They have the summer off and planned to walk as a family. Once they get to Santiago, Lana’s husband and both brothers will join her. Lana’s parents return home and the siblings will travel together to Germany. There they attend a wedding of a Foreign Exchange student they hosted a couple of years back. Following that, Lana and her husband fly to Ireland-Scotland-England and follow a Harry Potter themed walk. Sounds like she has a packed summer ahead.

Lana with her Mom & Dad

Our next stop was Verna de Naron where I was ready to get some hot tea. It was just one of those days. I pulled out my not-so-ripe banana, just the way I like it and some crackers. That’ll be enough to get me over the crux of this hill.

Clean & Modern Cafe

George and I carried on, seeing the Israelis and met a couple of new people on the way. The scenery was mostly treed with some Eucalyptus Trees, Pines and lots of Fig Trees. This was the first time I actually noticed clear cutting. There were distinct areas where they mowed down trees. The locals were tilling the soil, getting ready to plant corn, potatoes and vegetables. It seems that Spain has enough land to sustain themselves. I heard my first pigs squeal and assumed it was a pen with many swine. There’s tons of cattle, not many chickens but that doesn’t seem to be a staple around these parts. They love Pork, Jamon, Beef Cheese and Olives! And there is no shortage of fresh bread.

Much of the Hiking Today

After most of the climbing was done, there was a great Bar-Restaurant on the trail. I can’t really say it was a town or village because there really was nothing but one house and this Bar in Portos. All I wanted was a bowl of soup. Ends up they had Vegetable Lentil Soup. George joined me and we had two soup bowls with bread. It was delicious and perfect for a cold day of walking, climbing, hiking and walking some more. We ate every last drop. Now I’m motivated to finish up this 17 mile day.

Yummy Lentil Vegetable Soup

The last few miles were a long slow descent into Palas de Rei. A sleepy old town that looks a little rough around the edges! It is near Lugo, and has 3,400 people who cal this place home. The big happening is the Civic Center, but outside of that, there’s not much to see or do. We arrived shortly after 3pm, got settled in our 2-Bedroom Apartment and did a load of washing. One of the biggest perks about Apartment rentals are you can wash your clothes. And being we have but two outfits, doing laundry daily is a Big Deal! Laundry done, showers taken and now we’ll explore this little town they call the Palace of the King. Seriously 😐

Palas de Rei

So we headed out to find somewhere to eat. I was thinking across the street, would be fine. We walked into the Pizza-Bar and could barely hear ourselves think. Lots of men yakking and drinking beer. There’s one gal who’s obviously a Pilgrim. She’s young and rubbing her legs. She says Hola and I say Hi. You speak English? Yep, sure do. This gal tells us her story of walking for the past two days on the Camino. Wow, that’s great. Then she tells us she started in Santiago!?! She thought it’d be cool to walk the Camino and all she knew was Santiago. When she got there, someone had to explain to her that this was the end point! OMG, she really had no idea. That’s youth for you. Gotta love the fact she jumped on a plane from Canada and had no idea what she had signed up for. Welcome to the Camino Shannon! I’m sure we will see you again. Santiago is west. Follow the arrows!

Follow the Way

Everyday, I could write for hours, sharing all the stories I hear and introducing you to all the people I meet. Today was no different. But I am limited in the fact I only have so much time, and need to get some rest. When this is all said and done, I will look back and remember not the hills I climbed or the food I ate or even the Cortado’s I drank, but rather the people I met, laughed with and even cried a bit with too. Just another amazing and indelible moment on this Camino. A journey that keeps me coming back!

Maybe Even Keeps Us Both Coming Back

Day 28: June 8, ‘24 Sarria to Portomarin Today: 14.3 miles Total Stats: 387.3 m & 624.9 km

Why is it that I can have the best night of sleep ever, the day before then toss and turn the following night? I just don’t get it. I was pooped when my 6 o’clock alarm went off. Dang it, can I reset and go back to sleep? Unfortunately for me, that’s not an option. So get dressed, pack up, eat some fruit and yogurt, the only good part of the morning and find espresso. Fast!

Good Morning Sarria

Once outside, I did feel better. The birds were singing as loud as ever and within ten minutes, I was ordering a double Cortado. Thank goodness for Spain and their Barista’s. No questions asked and caffeine in my veins. This will make up for the lackluster sleep.

Just Give me Caffeine!

We already started to see the usual suspects. The Canadians and his Jansport Pack. Our friends from Florida, Matt & Norman. And the rest of the gang. Even our Israelis friends passed by. We’ll catch up with them later.

Mr. Jansport & Daughter

We downed our coffee, and off we went with the masses. The trail is littered with new bodies, new pilgrims and sparkling new shoes! You can spot them out quite easily. They smell really good to start with and they have looks of complete confidence, until they miss their first turn! It was fun walking with some new blood.

All the Sparkling Fresh Pilgrims

The route today was a hefty uphill climb with a plateau at the top that seemed to roll on for miles. The day was cool, refreshing and a tiny threat of rain. All the newbies, who had packs on, maybe 25% were carrying their worldly possessions, had pack overs donned. The rest of us, come what may! No need to worry about minor inconveniences like a little precipitation.

Heading out of Sarria

We caught up with Mark & Jay pretty quickly. Mark is still walking really slow as his ankle hasn’t healed. But he’s still walking. Jay has slowed down tremendously, keeping Mark company. We all talked for a bit, then I bolted off. I was talking with a new family from Iowa. They were walking the 100 miles to Santiago with their daughter who just finished college. What a great bonding experience for the three of them! We talked for awhile, then I slowed and waited for my other half.

Mark, George and Others in the Rear and Jay on Right

Once we made it to our first town outside of Sarria, we stopped and grabbed, you guessed it, more coffee. I scored a couple of bananas and two almond cookies to go along with it. We talked with another young couple from Pamplona. They were doing a short section before going back home to work. I think that’s the biggest reason you see Pilgrims jumping on towards the end point. Time restrictions. Especially the younger ones. They all have jobs, families and are not retired like us older folks.

Our Very Civilized Water Crossings

George and I pointed the new pilgrims in the right direction as they started down the road going the wrong way! Oh, how I remember those first days on the trail. We followed right afterwards, but never saw them again. Fast, young and fresh legs. The terrain was mostly cow paths. There’s so much cattle in Galicia and evidently along with the cows, dogs know their way around. We’ve seen several dogs this morning going for morning strolls without their owners. None of the dogs looked lost and they all seemed to be eating well, yet they just liked walking. Maybe they are Pilgrim Dogs?

Many Long-Horned Cattle

The big highlight of the day was hitting the 100 KM marker. It’s what everyone was talking about. We passed through the village, which really wasn’t a village at all, but just a cafe in Mirallos. They had their pilgrim stamp outside. We got our passport stamped and started looking for the infamous marker. Around the bend, down the hill, then up the hill. We finally saw it. The Holy Grail. Only 100 kilometers to go!

Km 100,000 to Santiago

There was an Asian family, Mom, Dad and the three really young kids. We offered to take their picture which was like herding cats. The twins were probably three years old and the older sister maybe 5. The kids weren’t sure who they should stand next to, or if they should pick whatever part needed picking! Finally, I took the picture. Actually 3-4 pictures so they might get one that will be worthy of a Christmas Card.

Dad and the Twins

George and I got down on our knees, which is a feat in itself. But never as hard as getting back up with a backpack on! Picture taken, and we walked on. Now we can chalk that obligatory pic off our list and keep trucking towards Santiago.

Only 100 KM to Santiago

The rest of the day was mostly downhill. I was getting hungry and we stopped at Mercadoiro for lunch. George had a Burger and Fries and I had my Goat Cheese Salad. Ends up that Spain is obligated to offer non-alcoholic beer whenever they serve beer. One of the Pilgrims from Brazil told me about this. I ordered a Tostado Beer without alcohol. It wasn’t too bad. The flavor was descent but I must admit, I like the real stuff better.

Oinko & Roy from Israel

We sat with our Israelis friends and got caught up on the latest news that four of the hostages were released! I guess released isn’t the right wording because they were actually rescued. Thank goodness. And I know that was a huge praise from them. As we were eating, a stray cow went walking down the trail we just came off. About five minutes later, an entire herd came running by. Only in Spain do cows walk on the same trail that us Pilgrims do.

Pilgrim Cows on the Camino

Oh and then there was the Shepards. Husband and wife were attempting to move their sheep from one pasture to the other. The ground was really uneven and the Man Shepard lost his stepping and down he went. Three gals and George went over to help him up. Poor guy smacked his face and bloodied up his nose. They brought a chair over, sat him down as the wife Shepard kept on doing what she was doing. Either this happens regularly or she just needed to get her sheep moving to the next pasture. By the time we were done, the sheep, and the Shepards were where they were supposed to be, the cows were inside their pens and George and I had quite an entertaining lunch!

Big Wholly Sheep in the Proper Meadow

Our last 3-4 miles was easy peasy, sort of. As we headed down, I slipped on some loose gravel and bam, I went down. Dang it Kelly! You were doing so good for almost 400 miles! Nothing broke, twisted or got too out of whack, just a minor flesh wound. I pulled out my First Aid Kit which has had little impact this trip, besides the meds for George’s flu and stomach bug. It’s like insurance. You have to buy it or bring it, but you hope you never need it. All wrapped up and off to finish the race.

This Gal Decided Walking Backwards Downhill is Best

Our final steps to town literally were steps to town. We crossed the bridge over Ponte Nova, and there was a pretty steep staircase leading up to who knows where. George says, that can’t be the way? After all this and now we have to climb stairs? Oh, but wait. Once we check into our Apartment, we’ll do it all over again. Only four more days and this will all be, a distant memory. And then, I betcha, we’ll be missing this! Well, maybe not the stairs!

Stairway to Portomarín
Looking Down – No Mercy

We arrived in town, checked into our super fancy Apartment and crashed. It wasn’t that it was a difficult day, but I think it’s the culmination of a month of non-stop pilgrimage. I am so grateful for the incredible places that we’ve stayed at, every night of the week. When I first planned this walk, I wasn’t too keen about booking a room each and every night of this journey. But now that it’s coming to an end, I can say I am so thankful that I did. It is a gift that we always have a bed to lay our weary bodies atop. Thank you Lord for providing your perfect guidance and for blessing me in more ways than I could’ve ever imagined. I can always rely on your wisdom and direction. You are perfect in every way.

Entering the Gates of Portomarin

Every good and perfect gift is from above, coming down from the Father of the heavenly lights, who does not change like shifting shadows. James 1:17

Day 27: June 7, ‘24 Triacastela to Sarria Today: 11.8 miles Total Stats: 373.0 m & 601.9 km

Back on “The Way.” It’s nice to be walking again. We stayed at a cool Hostel last night. Back in the day, it was an old schoolhouse. Johan, who is a Pilgrim himself, purchased this place a couple of years ago, following his pilgrimage. He told me it was in great disrepair and had returned to the “wild.” Needless to say, he had much work to do. Many dilapidated buildings along the Camino, are bought for a song and a dance, restored and opened for business. With all the people coming to these parts, there’s no lack of beds for weary travelers. Johan really made me feel like family, and was an incredible host. Our bed last night was one of the most comfortable with real down pillows! Not foam bolsters, which are quite common along this corridor.

George Sneaking out of School

Our final steps on the trail will be saunters. No big miles, and nothing too strenuous. Just nice and easy walking days to Santiago. I did not plan it this way. Well in fact I did, being I am the “Party Planner!” But someone above was looking over me because, honestly, my little Achilles could use a break.

A Little R&R in Triacastela with my Feet up

As we left, there were two distinct choices, one to Samos, quite a bit longer by 7.2 KM and some, or the shorter route up and over the hill. George chose the shorter route and I followed. It ended up being a great choice as the vistas were pretty darn nice and it was drop dead gorgeous, in both, the forest and villages.

Vistas From Top of the Hill

We had a climb from the get-go. I haven’t done anything crazy; no big falls, no twisting of the ankles but I must’ve pulled my Achilles because today, it was talking to me loudly. Thankfully it was a short day with many breaks along the way. George and I walked our own walk. Me stopping and talking to everyone, and George carrying-on. It works as I can sooner or later catchup. Although these days, George is getting a move-on and it takes me a bit longer to catch him. Way to go George!

George Around the Bend & Up the Hill

My first stop was outside of Triacastela. A local artist named Art (seriously, that was his name) had his studio open and was reading the Bible. I like this man already. He also loves to paint, then turns his paintings into printed postcards. He adds scripture to each of them, and then I buy them up! They were beautiful pieces of art!

Art’s Watercolors and Postcards

There were many people walking today. We are making our way to Sarria and it’s the 100 kilometer mark so many Pilgrims enter the trail here. As long as you walk 100 kilometers, you can obtain a Compostela which is a certificate that acknowledges your accomplishment of walking “The Way.” It’s quite a thing and many Pilgrims come for this lovely piece of paper.

Example of a Compostela

Oinko and Roy from Israel stayed at the Schoolhouse with us last night. They just started today and plan to walk to Santiago. I also met Ella. She’s from Portland, Oregon but has been teaching English in Spain for the past two years. She also started today. So many Pilgrims are adding to our mix. It’s great to see people from all walks of life’s, nations and cultures.

Ella Walking Her Camino

What is really cool is there are so many Pilgrims that we’ve met from the first day or primary week, and now we’re all finishing together. Yesterday afternoon while we were eating, we ran into Mark and Jay, another couple from Brazil that we’ve been walking with since León, and two other guys from Florida that we met when M&M were hanging with us. It’s quite the reunion on the trail!

Mark & Jay Introducing me to Gin & Tonic- Not Too Shabby

Every Cafe that I saw, which was three, I stopped and consumed coffee. Cortado was my drink choice of the day. I had three, and was bouncing down the trail. Expecting it would be a road walk today, I was pleasantly surprised that there were trails. I climbed to the top of the second hill, and could see that I was above the clouds again. Almost like flying in a plane and looking down on the mist and fog covering the valleys below.

San Xil de Carballo

One of my many stops was Fontearcuda. It had the nicest of the Cafes and everyone was sitting outside. This trio from Canada showed up and the older gentleman, who was actually my age, was carrying a Jansport Backpack. One of the same packs I had when I was a teenager. I believe, if I was willing, he would’ve traded me packs in one hot minute. After 50 plus years, he thinks it’s time to purchase a new one. Just for nostalgia alone, I would love to have my old pack again. Envy! I need to curtail that, but boy oh boy, it brought back memories! I carried on and found another nostalgic piece of history, the Scalloped Shell Watering Hole.

The Original Scalloped Shell Watering Holes for Pilgrims Traveling Centuries Ago

By noon, we were only a mile from town. We stopped and I was ready to eat. I’m not sure if George is dieting or just tired of the food here, but I seem to be eating alone. He indulged in a glass of Sangria, but I ate mostly all of the Calamari and Peppers myself. I have become a big fan of the peppers here. It’s all I want! They are called Pimiento’s and they come in big or not so big sizes. I don’t care what size they are. They grill and salt them, and typically I get at least 15-20 on my plate. Presto, I am a happy camper! George won’t eat them so I eat the entire plate, all by myself.

Wild Pink Foxglove Everywhere, Not Edible

After I finished my peppers and devoured half of the Calamari, it was time to beat feet and get to town. We arrived in Sarria a little before 1pm. I already received the super secret code for the Apartment and went straight in. The gal was still cleaning so we dropped our packs and walked, back to town.

No, that’s Not our Apartment

Sarria is a big city with its architectural legacy, arising from the fact that the Pilgrim’s Road to Santiago de Compostela passes through these lands. There are examples of medieval structures for religious, civil and military purposes. The city was founded by Alfonso IX under the name of Vilanova de Sarriá and has close to 13,700 inhabitants. That makes Sarria the largest city in Galicia Providence. It has everything you could want, need or desire, except maybe a Ski Hill. But it’s a thriving metropolis and just about every Pilgrim that I’ve talked to, and that’s a lot, are staying here!

Once I was situated in the Apartment, my shoes came off and I was done for the day. George has been trying for the past 2-3 weeks to find a Barber, who is open. He attempted again, without luck. But he did stop at the local Super Mercado and brought home fixings for dinner. I was able to whip up some meat, brussels sprouts and mushrooms. It was nice, just to cook in our own little place.

Sorry, No Pictures from Dinner Were Shot

Afterwards we had Nata, a traditional dessert from Galicia and listened to fireworks. It was odd. We couldn’t see anything, and it was still light outside but the continuous banging had to be some sort of Mortar Shell or Fireworks. I’m going with Fireworks! Gosh, my poor friends from Israel. And to think they were praying to get away from all of that! God, save us all.

I will go before you and will level the mountains ; I will break down gates of bronze and cut through bars of iron. I will give you hidden treasures, riches stored in secret places, so that you may know that I am the LORD, the God of Israel, who summons you by name. Isaiah 45:2-3