I have been writing for a few years now. Actually I’ve been called a “Creative Writer” since I was in Junior High. I remember my English Teacher telling me I should be a writer at the wee age of 13 years old. Oh gosh no, I have plans to be a Veterinarian. That obviously never happened, actually far from it! But I have been writing and journaling ever since. Maybe she knew more about me, than I knew about myself. Imagine that?!

George and I took a respite from the trail. I asked him a simple question, so I thought. What have you liked about this route compared to the Portuguese Coastal Route? Oh boy, I opened Pandora’s Box! You can’t ask me to compare this to that. It’s like asking you to compare the Desert to an Oasis! Wow, I didn’t expect that. I was just trying to make conversation so I’ll share my thoughts regarding walking, not so much this or that, just putting one foot in front of the other.

First, a wonderful quote from one of my favorite philosophers, John Muir.

Hiking – “I don’t like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains – not hike! Do you know the origin of that word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, ‘A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.”

John Muir was onto something, way before I was even born. He understood that when we allow ourselves to saunter, we are opening ourselves to more than we ever thought possible. This walk through the “Holy Land” is truly whatever we can open our hearts to. It’s not getting to a predetermined destination, but rather an opener to what the Lord wants us to hear, see and feel. He has allowed me to witness this walk in different eyes. Maybe that’s what He saw in me years ago. When I was sitting at my 8th Grade desk writing for an audience of one. All I needed to do was place one foot in front of the other, for just a little inspiration.

So now, I can say that yes, the Portuguese Coastal Route and the Frances are two different paths in life. The day to day saunter is the same, the scenery changes but in the end, it is all what you are open to experience. And maybe, just maybe, it depends on how open your heart is?

George and I had a nice relaxing time in Fisterra. It was unexpected in the fact that neither of us have experienced this place together. The fresh air, the warm sun, the blue skies and the ocean breeze. Yet after spending a day or two here, honestly, we both yearned for the trail. Let me say that again! Me and George both, wanted to return to the past routine of placing one foot in front of the other. To hear the voice of the Lord, to see what He has created and to feel His presence. And isn’t that the reason why I keep going back. Again, again and again.

So this duo will hop back on the path and continue onward, towards Santiago. One foot in front of the other, and maybe, just maybe, I will share my experiences and thoughts about the Portuguese Route versus the Frances? Or maybe I’ll just keep that to myself. God only knows. He will keep searching my heart, as I seek His. For that is all I truly desire & need.

Just a lazy day. The church bells chimed at 6AM and I covered my ears and went back to sleep. When they chimed at 7AM, I figured we better get a move-on. I had planned an easy day after our butt-kicker yesterday. George was pleasantly surprised. We packed up and headed to the local hangout and ordered Cortado and Croissant. Then proceeded to order another shot of espresso.

The Camino followed the road out of town. It promised to be little up and little down, but we all know how that goes. It was a bit more up than the trail map advised and some dirty trail down. That’s what you get when you sign up to follow me!

We passed a lot of gardens today. Many of the men were tilling the soil, placing wooden sticks to help beans climb, moving soil around and just tending to their perfectly manicured plants. I love seeing what others do to maintain these garden works of art. The one thing I didn’t see was not a single raised-bed! Hmm, I guess they employ the same practices I do. I have never been sold on the raised garden theory. I just love walking on the ground and moving my toes in the soil. It’s just my thing.

The only real town, if you can call it that, was Campo, which we passed through in a blink of the eye. It had a few stone buildings, a couple of cats, two German Shepards and that was about it. Never even saw a Cafe! But it is close to town so I imagine everyone walks or drives there to get their provisions.

The morning walk was nice. The mountains we trekked over yesterday were in the foreground, disappearing the further we walked. It was a nice day, with little temperature change. We didn’t see but, a handful of Peregrino’s, as I suppose they also were have a lazy day. Most had the same idea as George and I. Sleep in, walk just a few miles, and arrive in town for lunch.

Once we arrived, short business was checking in and doing some laundry. Lucky for us, our Apartment has a washing machine and George sweet talked the maids into some laundry detergent. He has a way of doing that. Before I knew it, clothes were in and we were off to find the Train-Bus Depot.

My plan was, and we know how that goes, was to take a train to Santiago then hop on a bus to Fisterra-The End of the World. Unfortunately after walking a mile to the train station, it was fully booked. No room for us Pilgrims. Plan B, take a Bus. We walked another mile in another direction to the Bus Depot. Once there, we were told to use the machine to purchase our tickets. Okay, I guess I could’ve done that online, but we are here and we’ll use your machine. Luckily the bus was not booked and it leaves at 8:30AM rather than 6:15AM, if we had taken the train. Win for the Baraga’s. Now we’ve had a full tour of the city of Ponferrada.

We made it back to our Apartment, hung our clothes to dry and headed for lunch. There is a nice square close by. No more one mile walks! Lunch was a Shrimp Salad recommended by the Waiter, Pork Loin (the best we’ve had to date) and yellow potatoes. Oh, and of course, Beer. The rest of the afternoon was dedicated to relaxing, something we have had little practice at. I’m thinking a Siesta may be in our future.

We attempted to check out the Castle but it’s closed on Mondays. I’ve found that quite a few places close down on Mondays in Spain. Everyone needs a day off including George and I. We milled around and decided that we were pretty much done too.

The next couple of days will be sightseeing Fisterra, the End of the World. It also happens to coincide with MPM 0.00 Km for the Camino. That’ll be fun for George to see. So I’ll be taking a couple of days off from blogging and will return once we get back on trail. Until then, enjoy the silence and take time to catch up on previous blogs or just, rest and relax. We definitely will be.

Just a little insider info. When I write my blogs, I do so at the end of the day and preferably before I go to bed. However, I wait and listen to my Lord and his take on the following morning. I usually don’t know what scripture or how I’m going to conclude until I sleep on it. Like this morning. Being today is Sunday, I thought about the significance and then it hit me like a ton of bricks, we will be approaching the Iron Cross on Sunday. That was His plan all along. God’s perfect timing. And hence the reason my choice of scripture was selected.

This morning was colder than usual. The sky was clear, not a cloud or even a Contrail in the sky, but it was bitterly cold. We’ve climbed to 4000’ so now some 1000’ higher and there is a brisk breeze. So I doubled down and wore my black tights and had my jacket ready.

After scrambled eggs and toast, George and I walked up and out of town. Today was going to be a lot of up, with a lot of down in the afternoon. We were thinking more about the up in the morning.

As we left Rabanal, there was a large white Arabian on the outskirts of town. It was eating the grass on the edge of this rock wall, which worried me a bit. I was hoping and praying he didn’t get too close and fall off the wall. But then I thought, horses seem to be very keen to their surroundings and if they don’t fall of the Grand Canyon, I’m sure this horse will be fine.

The morning route was glorious. The mountains and hillsides were lush green with patches of snow high atop the peaks. The trail was a fire road which was fairly wide enough for hikers and bikers to pass with ease. There were lush yellow flowering bushes lining the trail, interspersed with purple sage. The combination of the two was spectacular. Everyone was in a great mood and no one seemed to be in much of a rush. As it was Sunday, the Lords Day and all things were new again.

We followed the masses for sometime and arrived in Foncebatton. It was the quintessential mountain top village with stoned walled buildings and slate roofs. This was the first time we’ve seen slate used for roofs as most of the time it is clay tile. There must be tons of snow that accumulates in these parts. In fact there was a couple of houses that had slate on the outside walls rather than stucco. Just before we crossed the road, there was a gal from Spain riding her bike with her dog in the front basket. Cutest darn thing I’ve seen on the trail. She told us they would be in Santiago in three days! Seriously, it’s gonna be another ten days before we get there. She’s cruising.

We headed to the first Cafe and George had his customary Cafe con Leche and me my Double Espresso with a dab of milk, aka Cortado. We drank more to warm up and I pulled out my jacket. We were halfway up the mountain and I wasn’t getting any warmer.

After coffee, I moved along. Just outside of this tiny village was a swampy lake and the frogs were singing. Not like California Frogs but Spanish Frogs singing a symphony that was quite soothing. I videotaped their performance as it was quite lovely.

The trail continued on a fire road and before long, crossed the paved road and turned into a single track within a mile or two, we rounded the corner and had our first glimpse of Cruz de Ferro, the Iron Cross.

This place of worship has many different meanings to the countless pilgrims that approach it. Some believed it was placed on top of the hill to guide travelers across the pass in winter months. Others state that when it was first erected, they had visitors bring rocks to place at its base to keep it uprighted. But in reality, the cross was placed there in the early eleventh century by Gaucelmo. Later Galician crop reapers would be on this path on the way to the farmlands of Castile and Leon, where they went to work. They also continued the tradition by placing a stone at its base, then called it Cruz de Ferro.

Almost every Pilgrim that we watched, approached the cross in reverence, said a silent prayer and placed a rock or token of some sort.

One of my friends I’ve met along the way shared that when her Father passed away, her son walked the Frances and scattered some of his Grandfathers ashes. Now she is here today, with her Mothers ashes and doing the same. There are many tributes and blessings that people share at the foot of this cross. It was quite meaningful for all of us today.

Another interesting feature was the Sundial that was constructed near the cross. It had the months of the year with the numbers of a clock. Based on the time of the year, and your shadow on the sundial, you could fairly accurately calculate the time of day.

George and I stayed for quite sometime before leaving this sacred place. The trail remained a narrow strip of dirt and I thought to myself that today was more like hiking than walking. We followed the ridge line of the mountain and enjoyed incredible vistas of peaks and valleys. It really has been the best hiking day of this journey, to date.

We came around a bin and saw this out of the way travel trailer converted into a full cafe. It even had indoor seating and a wood burning fireplace. Just exactly what I needed. George changed it up and ordered a Cortado with a Chocolate Donut and I had Hot Tea and a Vegetable Sandwich, which was quite delicious. We warmed up, drank more hot liquids and headed up the final hill of the day.

We finally arrived near the top with more spectacular views from both where we have been and the city below. The sun was shining brightly and the wind had died down. I stripped off my jacket, ate my banana and headed down.

The downhill was much steeper than the uphill. George has been dreading this part of the day and threatened to get a taxi. We talked about his options but honestly, this was George’s Pyrenees! He missed out as he was sick and I think, we all sell ourselves short, not having faith in our abilities. George is strong and he is ready for whatever this mountain brings. He adjusted his pack, readied himself and walked off this mountain.

About one-third of the way down, we stopped in El Acebo and had something to drink. We also pulled out all our excess fruit and devoured it. With six plus miles to go, we had some sugar and carbs to carry us through our afternoon hike. George did great. He was sure-footed and stayed the course I’m so proud of him for trusting his ability and pushing himself to finish up this day.

After it was all said and done, I congratulated him on a tough day. You are a hiker! He wasn’t too sure that he really wants to be a hiker, but for now, he’s looking forward to a cold beer and a shower. Luckily, I can make that happen.

We arrived in Molinaseca a bit after 4pm, hot, tired and a dirty mess. The ground was quite silty and our shoes, socks, legs and clothes were soaked with sweat and dust. Don’t you love that? I don’t think he’s convinced yet, but I still have another week to build him up. With God’s help, I’m gonna have a hiking partner for life!

After our shower, we went to visit the town. It’s honestly not a big town. We walked through it in five minutes but there are a lot of Bars! And that makes me happy. I had a glass of Vino Tinto (Red Wine) which I always asked for incorrectly. I guess Tinto Vino is incorrect. It’s Red Wine, but they say it Wine Red. Oh boy, I still have much to learn.

We made it back to our lovely Hostel and had a communal Brazilian Dinner. Jose and Mara love to feed us hungry pilgrims and they are serious about food. They served us with authentic Rice with Black Beans, a salsa-like concoction that goes on top (bring on some spice) with salad, and a coleslaw mixture with non-descriptive sausage and oranges. It was so darn yummy! They also make a drink that is very typical Brazilian called Kibamia which is made from Cachaca with lime, sugar and ice. I am so satisfied. Outstanding people and incredibly delicious. I can sleep good tonight. Hands-down best day ever!

The night before last, George warded off drinking. After last night, I decided that Espresso needs to be consumed before 3pm. Having a Cortado at 5pm, which is equal parts espresso with milk, is too much caffeine. I tossed and turned until close to midnight. Lucky for me we only had a twelve mile day with about 1000’ elevation. Nothing too crazy and still arrived in town early.

When I woke up, I told George that I was dreaming and smelled Bacon and Eggs. Wishful thinking. We headed downstairs and found a lovely breakfast of fruit, juice, bread and jam. But as we were finishing, here comes the eggs with mushrooms. Oh my, this is the best! Once we finished our two course breakfast, I was ready to walk some miles.

It was easy walking out of town being we were right around the corner from the route. We had a few streets to cross, ran into some of our typical pilgrim friends and walked on.

Within an hour or so, we made it to Valdeviajis. George was good with his morning coffee so we stopped to talk with a few Pilgrims. Somehow George managed to bum a breakfast cookie from a SoCal couple. Really, and then I did the same. I hadn’t seen them before but there’s a few new faces, as people were jumping on at León. We had our cookies and carried on.

The temperature has been perfect these past couple of days, slight breeze and cooler temps. As we get closer to the mountains, we are feeling the mountain air. Perfect hiking weather. Well at least before noon.

George pointed to the hills we’ve been looking at for the past week. They are actually mountains with glacier fields. The small patches of snow tell the tale that they experience winter around here. Some of the Pilgrims of late have had some bad weather and two pilgrims died earlier this spring from weather-related issues. It is a somber reminder of the grim tale that even a walk along this route can sometimes lead to another path. Today, our weather is forecasted for nothing more than blue skies and sunshine. Let’s pray it stays that way!

Murias de Rechivaldo showed up pretty quickly. It was time for real coffee and early enough to process caffeine. The Barista from Germany knew exactly what I needed. Real coffee with lots of shots. Double Shot or Quad? Is it that obvious? Double Shot with small amount of milk please. And a banana and an orange too.

After talking with Clara from the Netherlands, I think we thoroughly convinced her that the Portugal Coastal Route is outstanding. Last year was our first go of this Camino thing. We dipped our toes and were hooked, line and sinker in love with the Camino Ways. Everyone has their reasons for what they recommend and she has been convinced that the Mountainous Route is the best. Follow the coastline! We fell for the coastal food, the coastal villages and the way of life. It’s breathtaking and never looked back. To each their own.

Once we left our cozy Cafe, the trail was enveloped with wildflowers, green fields and mountains. Honestly, outside of the Pyrenees, we’ve had no real foothills or mountains to impede our little walkabout. It’s good to see my old friends again. There were a couple of locals plopped along the trail selling their goods. A Senor selling walking sticks, a gal making macrame and another knitting dolls. They were very nice but I was not ready to buy any souvenirs, and lug them to Santiago. Not yet anyhow.

Today’s work had a slight uphill battle. It was nice to sweat a little, along with some huffing and puffing. I don’t think I’ve had my heart rate up past 70-80 for quite sometime, hence the reason I’m not losing any weight. But on the bright side, I’m definitely not gaining anything either and God knows, I’ve been eating and drinking my way through Spain!

As we entered Santa Catalina de Somaz, there was a cute Cowboy Bar & Grill. We decided to stop and I grabbed something to eat. Because honestly that seems to be all I do here. I ordered a salad with egg. Typically that means hard boiled eggs but in this case, my lunch came with two fried eggs! Oh my, that was so good. The yolks here are bright orange and runny, just the way I like them. With a slice of sourdough bread. That makes a perfect lunch!

Now all I have to do was pry myself up, and back to walking again. The final 10,000 steps were a bit uphill and George commented that our hill has started. Yes, it has. For some reason I had it in my mind that we were going up and over the mountain today. No such luck. Just to the base. How come I didn’t know that? Alrighty then, we will be in our new town before 2pm. This really is an easy day!

We walked into Rabanal just after 1pm. There was Caroline and Marie from Canada, the two men we keep running into and Steve and Taz from England. It’s like coming home to see your old friends. We found our accommodations at Casa de Indie which is one of the oldest Hostels we’ve stayed in. It is decorated with pillows from India, and looks like Grandma’s house. It’s quite eclectic, to say the least but for $63, one can’t expect the Ritz! The shower is clean, the beds are soft and the floor squeaks. Two out of three ain’t bad. It’ll be fine for one night.

After showering, George was craving a Burger and Fries. Mr. Indie recommended the Albergue down the street. There slogan is “Kitchen Open Non-Stop” No Siesta Time. Perfect for Pilgrims that are hungry all day, everyday. We headed over and George got his “Special Request” and I was happy with Soup, Salad and a Chicken Filet. What a nice lunch-dinner it was.

After our meal, we walked back to our humble abode in Rabanal. We decided to hit the local grocery store, which is a small 10×10 space with all the necessary provisions. Wine, Cheese, Chocolate, Oreo Cookies, Water and a Banana. Sounds like exactly what I need.Well Ice Cream could be added but I’m not gonna push it. So we are relaxing for the rest of the evening, plan to pack tonight and head out right after breakfast. Another extra specially good day on the Camino. Gosh I’m not gonna want this to end.

When we planned this time on the Camino, I hoped and prayed that it would be the right time. As I near the end, I’m realizing it was God’s timing. He knew what was coming and he was preparing our hearts, minds and bodies to be ready. It seems He is always in charge, and we are just here for His presence. It could not have been planned any better. Thank you Lord for paving the way, opening doors and giving us this perfect moment.

I do enjoy sleeping in. Being we had an easy peasy day planned, I laid in bed, finishing uploading pictures. George was biting at the bit to get coffee so I sent him away and I did my thing. It was very satisfying to lay low till 730am.

As we exited town, the excitement of this weekend’s festivities was underway. Flags were hanging above, vendors were setting up and we were wishing I had known, so we could’ve stayed. Some of the Pilgrims are thinking about riding a bus back just to stay for the day. There’s not a bed in the town, so no chance of spending another night.

We made our way onto the dirt path and had the choice between the road or the scenic route. The scenic route for sure! And such a good choice. We walked through newly plowed fields, some grain and corn was already planted and hills of green surrounded us. And quietness. Oh the sound of quiet. Yesterday you could barely hear each other talk over the road noise so this was a great return to the peacefulness of our walk!

There were some small villages that we passed through including Villares de Orbiga and Santabienez. Both had cafes and fruit, which at this point, is my go-to breakfast. There were some odd decorations lining the cobblestones streets. I’m not sure if they are welcoming pilgrims or warning us? And then there were kinder and gentler ones.

We took a pit stop, grabbed a couple of bananas and headed on up the trail. There were lots of people walking today. I stopped and fed a couple of horses. George had been carrying an apple for three plus days, and it was ready to be purged. At first the horses weren’t sure but once I broke it open, they smelled it and came running. Well not running but nudged closer. And they gobbled it up. Problem solved. Horses were fed and George’s pack is lighter!

As we followed the Pilgrims that were ahead, I noticed a fork in the road. Me and another Pilgrim were scratching our heads being the others were going a route that wasn’t even a trail, but an unknown dirt road. I looked at him and my app and stated the obvious! We are not even on the trail! He agreed and we hoofed it up a dirt path and met back up with The Way. George wasn’t having it because it was straight up a hill and he was liking the flatter non-descriptive way, but followed me anyways. Before long, we were back on the route, and on the properly marked trail with yellow arrows. As it should be.

We crested the hill, looked down over the valley and saw the town below. This is definitely the right way. And the other unnamed Pilgrim agreed. The terrain was rolling ups and downs, but nothing too unreasonable.

As we crested another hill, there was this patch of land that had all the trimmings and fixings for a beautiful stop. There were hammocks, lounge chairs, round table with 8 chairs and lots of food! Fruits, nuts and a squeezer to make your own OJ. Hard boiled eggs, cheese and crackers. Who does this? Sure enough the owner operator who looked like a kid, well almost everyone looks like a kid to me, came out with another dozen hard boiled eggs. I stopped and thanked Frederico for this unexpected spread. What a wonderful gesture and kind thing to do for tired and weary travelers.

We sat with many of our Pilgrim friends and took a much needed break. Well honestly it wasn’t like we had walked for hours on end, but any break is always welcomed. We enjoyed the stop and loved the fruit! After a bit, we packed up, pushed up our umbrellas and marched on.

The trail was stunning today. There was an interesting spot we passed that could’ve been a mint Sedona. It had red rocks that could’ve been busted out by a meteor or who knows what? It had a sink hole that was filled with water from a recent rain shower.

As we approached the top of the hill, we saw the town of San Justo de la Veda. There was a beautiful cross on top of the hill. Everyone stopped to admire it. George was right behind me and we also had to stop and just ponder the significance of this moment. We have walked over 300 miles and have been protected from any debilitating injuries. George has recovered from his flu and stomach bugs and seems to be trekking like a champ. It is only because of the absolute protection we have had on this journey. And that can only come from God above! I am so grateful for all that He has allowed us to do together. What a wonderful gift!

Our walk off the mountaintop which honestly was a bump on the trail, was quite gentle. At the bottom there was a fountain, but not any normal water spout. Someone had sculpted a Pilgrim with a Boda-Bag that was flowing water into his mouth. It was pretty ingenious and you had to stop and laugh at this. What a great sense of humor these Spaniards have!

Less than six hours, we arrived in Astorga. It reminds me of a European City with a castle on the hill, a moat around it and a classic Gothic-Style Church. We headed right up to our home for the night. We met Wendy who spoke Spanish. Thank goodness I have my translator with me. She was trying her best to convey what she needed and I was picking up on half of it. By the time she was done and exhausted, she spoke to George and said, you understand what I’m saying very well. You should teach your wife Spanish! I should’ve paid better attention in my Spanish Class in High School. Oh well, at least I’m covered because I have George!

We unpacked, showered and hit the town. First things first, I want to check out the Cathedral. We headed over and I ran into Caroline, my Bunk Mate from Day One. It’s her birthday today and she had ice cream and soda, ready to party it up with Maria. We exchanged info and sent her on her way. I love the fact that we always run into each other on this journey. Happy Birthday Caroline.

The Cathedral of Santa Maria de Astorga was not a disappointment. The edifice begun in 1471, within the same walls of the Romanesque predecessors from the 11th-13th centuries. The construction lasted through the 18th century, which added to its original Gothic appearance some Neo-Classicist cloister (18th century), the Baroque towers, capitals and the façade, along with the Renaissance portico. With a rectangular layout, the apsidal chapels, were very clear and bright. It has an architectural closeness to German Gothic. Each Cathedral I have visited varies. They all, in their own right, are different and uniquely constructed, adding to my incredible appreciation of the architects of each century.

Being we haven’t had much to eat today, it was time to hunt for some fine dining. Steak and Salad with Red Wine. Let’s hope we can fine a place we can have it all! If this is our biggest challenge of the day, we have little to be concerned with. I surely don’t miss the really world where things are getting a bit intense these days. With that, I’ll be signing off and looking for some food.

Each day that we are walking in the footsteps of St. James, and the thousands of Pilgrims that went before us, I am in awe of how great our Lord is. It is difficult to comprehend the love that Jesus Christ has for each and every one of us. I just need to be more boastful and loud about praising His glorious name! Thank you Lord for creating this world, for loving me with your entire being and showing me such undeserving kindness. I am blessed and eternally grateful for you!

Earliest up and out. We actually packed last night and headed out the door at 6am. Two reasons, it was going to be HOT and we had a lot of miles to cover. Longest day and I can guarantee you, we won’t be doing that again!

The streets were pretty quiet as we left. The only people we saw were the Street Cleaners and the Peregrinos. George commented that he’s seen more street cleaners in the past ten years, here in Spain, than ever in Sacramento. They take cleaning their streets serious around here.

It was a long walk out of town. We passed a Museum, which at first I thought was the University. I do believe this is the first big city that we did not walk pass the higher education institution.

Once out of town, there was a Quick-Stop. This guy had somehow fashioned a Not-So-Scenic Roadside that almost every pilgrim stopped at. We had not consumed our money Joe, so George partook in the worse coffee of the trail, Freeze-Dried Sanka! No, thank you. I went all in with the fresh squeezed OJ. I’m not much of an OJ drinker at home, but the oranges here are a cross between lemon and orange. Not too sweet and tastes great! I also obtained my final stamp of my Pilgrim Passport and lucky for me, he had Pilgrim Passports for donation based fee! I obliged and now have number 2 Passport to fill in with stamps. George has a double sided passport, so he’s good for the entire trip. Smart man I married!

We carried on in search of real coffee, espresso and Cafe con Leche. Being the day was going to be long, I needed something to fuel this walk. There were a handful of Pilgrims on trail including Jeff and Sharon who I met in Orisson’s. Day One from Australia. One of the most beautiful parts of this trail is the relationships you make along the way. Jeff and I shared much of our favorite hiking trails. He has passed George and I umpteen times in his van, as he has been shuttling his family to and from. Sharon and Jeff walked the Camino years before and are sharing this with their friends and family now.

Thank goodness. As we arrived to La Virgin del Camino, there was real honest to goodness Cafe. We stopped and I finally got my Espresso for the day, and George had a real cup of coffee. Paul and Sharon were there and we shared coffee together. Perfect timing and George had a chance to meet them too.

Today it was a super flat road walk. We paralleled a very high speed roadway all day. It was not scenic and super loud. We had the option to take a scenic route but being we already committed to 20 miles, me or George honestly weren’t too excited about adding more scenic miles! So road noise was our best option.

After a good 10-12 miles, I was out of water and found a gas station. That’ll work in a pinch. I stopped, waltzed in and found water and potato chips. That’ll compliment my apricots. So Gas Station food it is. We ate and were back, walking down the trail, when I saw Mark.

Mark is one of the first people I met on the trail. He is traveling with his Brother-in-Law Jay. Super good people. We ran into Jay before Leon and I asked where Mark was? Jay said he took a taxi and went to Urgent Care as his ankle was sprain or ??? We saw Mark at Leon Cathedral, just spending time with God. He had been talking with the Lord trying to make sense of all this?!? He had wanted to walk the Camino with his wife years ago but she was diagnosed with Lou Gehrig Disease. He took care of her for years before she passed. Now he’s walking this in her memory. Such a solid Man of God. George has enjoyed his conversations with Mark. He was so encouraging when George was sick with the flu. We walked with him for a good mile or two. Mark pulled off to take a must needed break to rest his ankle, and we continued on.

After close to 15 miles, I was ready for something more than potato chips and apricots. We stopped at an Albergue in San Martin. I ordered my go-to Mista Salad with Tuna and George decided on Lasagna. It came out, all looked well till he tried a bite. This is not Lasagna from the Old Country. It’s so easy to make this. How can they mess up something so good? I’m thinking there are a few things that are Spanish, and I have to say, lasagna is not one of them. Maybe stick with a Burger and Fries!

We had only another 5-6 miles to go and dinner is coming. We headed out and walked our hearts out. It is hot in Spain and this is only the end of May. I would never never ever walk this trail in summer. Blonde hair and blue eyes doesn’t fair well in intense heat, umbrella or not. I was lagging behind, and if a taxi came by or a Spaniard asked if I needed a ride, I think I would’ve jumped onboard! But no such luck and we continued onward.

Before I knew it, we were approaching our final stop for the day. We passed a field with very happy cows grazing, a huge silo and then a church steeple. As we crossed the old medieval bridge, I knew we arrived. We looked down upon a grassy field, and I told George, I think they are preparing for a Jousting Contest!

Ends up that there is the legend of Don Suero and his duel which attracts lovers of the Middle Ages to this bridge. It is a 13th-century bridge which served and still serves as part of the Pilgrim’s Road to Santiago de Compostela. The legend says that on this bridge, a knight from Leon, confronted some foreigners who wanted to cross it. In a duel so that he could undo a pledge of slavery to his beloved Lady Leonor, he would fast every Thursday and wear a heavy iron ring around his neck. He must have broken 300 lances and for this reason, the bridge is known as Passo Honroso (Honourable Crossing).

I knew there was something special about this bridge! Love is always the answer. As we walked across, I noticed a beautiful buildings at the end of it. Sure enough that is our Hostel for the night. We arrived red-faced and tired, checked in and headed up to our room. George was ready for a drink so we changed and headed back down to the bar. We ordered drinks and sat on the deck.

Being that this weekend is the big festival, the girls arrived in their Renaissance costumes and started rehearsing. Oh, this was so unexpected! We listened to the flute and harp playing while watching the gals dance below. Talking with the owner of the Hostel, he said this weekend they will have close to 20,000 people. Oh my goodness. A town of a population of 987 are going to host 20 times their population! Good thing we are moving on! But what a party it will be.

Such a hard day, yet never heard a peep out of my hiking partner. Is he getting stronger? Yes. Is he embracing pain, suffering and agony, heck yeah! Is it hard and he’s just not admitting to it? By all means, yet I believe that the Lord is doing immeasurable repair. When we least expect change, He is changing. When we surrender to His goodness, that is when we are transformed. George is going through a transformation that only the Lord can do. And I am reaping the benefits! What an incredible gift that is.

Another beautiful day in paradise! The sun is shining, the birds are chirping and breakfast is waiting. Now that’s a perfect morning. Walking the Camino is nothing like backpacking. Everything that I wanted or desired was up to me. Want breakfast, heat some water and make soup. Like a cup of coffee, heat water and pretend that your Instant Coffee tastes remotely like a double shot of espresso! But I have to admit, the birds always chirped by 430AM. No questions asked. They have their pros and cons but right now, this Camino is winning my heart!

Today really and truly is a pain free, relaxing day with only eight miles, and little to no hills to climb. Okay maybe one itsy bitsy baby hill. It was non-negotiable as I am NOT God, and hence cannot move mountains!Sorry George.

Leaving Puente del Villarente was almost like walking through a real honest-to-goodness town. It had all the amenities as any city in The States. Furniture Shops, Car Repair Stations, Cafe and Restaurants, and just about anything a local would need. We are definitely getting closer to the Big City of Leon.

We walked through a field that had tonight’s dinner, big fat cows. I’ll be having fish actually, but I’m sure George would eat a steak, if he has an option. The locals have been talking up the Bocahlo, so that’s what I’m looking for. Juicy Steak for George, or maybe just a salad but I’ll have a piece of Cod please.

We walked through a couple of small villages. Arcajuega and Valdelafuente had nothing open. Maybe Tuesday’s is their day off. We found a Cafe just outside of Leon and stopped for Espresso and Fruit. Many others had the same idea. We recognized Peregrinos and all shared our excitement for a much needed rest day. Leon, here we come.

As we were leaving town, I noticed a church, with you guessed it, a stork nest atop it. These birds were very active and George and I hooked a beeline to inspect them closer. A Gal from Korea, Ann informed us we missed our turn. I pointed to the bird nest and she asked, oh the very famous bird of Spain? Yes, it’s a very famous and special Big Bird of Spain. She followed and started videotaping. I cannot believe that she hasn’t seen them before as they are everywhere but maybe she hasn’t noticed? We hung out taking pictures and videos. They are quite magnificent creatures. I just can’t get enough of them.

Back on track, Leon was our next and final destination for the day. Once atop the crest of our one and only hill of the day, the City of Leon was in the foreground. It is huge! Truly a city in its own right. It is the Capitol of the Providence of Leon, settled in 29 BC and has a population of close to 200,000 people. Did you read that? 29 BC! I’m talking over 2000 years old. From miles away, the most prominent feature is…the Cathedral! It is a masterpiece of Spanish Classic Gothic Architecture and was built during the 13th and 14th century. Talk about historic value.

As we headed into Leon, we were inundated with people, motor vehicles, oh no, and industry. Since leaving Paris, this is the biggest city we have seen! As we neared the Rio Turio, there was a Pilgrim Census Station. I saw a couple of Pilgrims talking with the Volunteers who were taking their job, quite seriously. George walked over and was listening as a few Pilgrims continued past. Oh my goodness, the one volunteer headed over to escort the Pilgrims to his information station. The big question of the day was “where are you from?” By the time we arrived, which was 11AM, there were nine pilgrims from United States. I didn’t think to ask where everyone else was from, but my best guess would be Spain, Korea and Australia, are the top of the list. We received the handy dandy map of Leon and were on our way.

We meandered on towards the Cathedral. Lucky thing, I reserved each and every one of our stays, months ago. And we are spending the next two nights looking at the Cathedral! My Google Map programmed and set so I could mindlessly walk through the Old City. George and I have been enamored by the Red Poppies, which we just found out are called Anapoly. We stopped at a Flower Shop and talked with the owner, who told us we cannot purchase poppy seeds from Spain. They are wild flowers and not for sale. Our only option is to confiscate the seeds, wrap them in paper and hope they pass through customs. Hmm, sounds like she has experience in this department. Thanks Mrs. Smuggler. I now know what to do.

Before we knew it, we were walking right, front and center, to the Cathedral. Another absolute work of art! This is larger than life, more beautiful than the most magnificent piece of art I’ve ever laid eyes on. How does one invision such an incredible piece of architecture!

As I turned down the narrow street, this is what I saw. The beauty was still hidden, only a glimpse of what she was. Like a viel over the bride before she is revealed to her husband. It reminded me of The Church that the Lord speaks of. The hidden place that we seek out, the love that only He can subside, the longing and lusting for something that only can be fulfilled by God Almighty. And then she is revealed in all her glory!

What a beautiful picture and testimony to the People of Leon. They built this Cathedral as a sacrament to their love for our Jesus. Over 100 years of building, they did not forget what it was that inspired them to start and more importantly, finish this incredible work of art. The stained glass windows surpass more than 1800 meters. No other church has such an exorbitant amount of colored glass in the world.

We checked into our Hostel. Now let me tell you, Hostels have come a long ways. It’s not the flop houses of the AT, sorry my AT Hostel Owners, but I’m not talking about your places. This is a glorified Suite that overlooks the Cathedral and the streets below. It is older than I, yet is completely redone. Stucco, brick and rock walls with modern fixtures and updated baths. I cannot believe that you can stay in a place like this for $70 a night. Maybe because I booked it three months ago or because they are just nice to Pilgrims, and know we are all on a tight budget?!?! But whatever it may be, this is the steal of the Camino!

All I can say is God is good! And we are truly blessed. day after day. We put in the miles and when we arrive, this is what we get! Yes, I’m thinking when I go back to my one-person tent, however nice it is, will be a major wake-up call! I am so spoiled walking this walk. No wonder Pilgrims come back year after year. Geese, this is too dang good.

A special “Thank you to Dad and Mom.” He blessed us with an early inheritance which has allowed us to enjoy such a place as this!

After taking a shower and cleaning up, George and I checked out the scene. This place is bustling with locals and tourists, Peregrinos and wanderers. We saw some faces we recognized and others that walked straight out of a magazine. Since Paris, these are the best dressed, put together, gorgeous people of Spain. I feel a bit underdressed in my Blue Town Dress, Sandals and Scarf. But that’s as good as it gets. I’ve been craving Bocalho and found a great restaurant close to our flat. We had dinner and dessert with a little vino and cappuccino. It was an incredible feast for one. George is still recovering and pretty much watched as I indulged in my marvelous meal.

It’s hard to put into words the absolute joy I have. My sister said I look like I found my happy place. I think she is “Spot On!” There is something about Spain. I can’t put my finger on it quite yet, but there is some magic about this country. Once I figure out what it is, or better yet when the sweet Lord has explained what He is doing in my heart, I will be sure to share that with you. Right now I am still riding the wave and enjoying every second, every minute, every hour and every day. I guess that’s what it means when you live in the moment!

Good morning Spain. My hubby is feeling better and we are heading out as Team Baraga. After packing, we went down to our Truckers Diner and had a simple breakfast. George isn’t ready to push Chicken Fried Steak or Eggs and Bacon, not that they have that?? But it is a Truckers Diner and they should. I get my typical Espresso, Croissant and a very crunchy green apple, yum. George settles for Cafe con Leche and his Chocolate Croissant. We settled our Bill, drop off our Hotel Key Card and head to the north to hook up with our trail.

Walking through town this morning, we look at each and decide the Trucker Diner and Hotel was a good choice. There’s not much here but a church, a handful of Pilgrims and a local or two. And the big stork nests!

The cobblestone street exits town and we are on our flat trail that extends for miles. No complaints here. George can use an easy 15 miles, if there is such a thing. There’s quite a few Pilgrims ahead of us and before long a few more pass us. All good, we have all day to make it to Villarente. This stretch of the trail has two options, road base (asphalt) or dirt trail. We choose the roadway until traffic starts flowing.

Our eyes are set on cruising to the next town, which will be our halfway mark for the day. Religios is a quaint town with little more than a small convenient store and a couple of Bar-Restaurant-Cafes. They serve all three needs! We stop, drop our packs and I head in. George isn’t too hungry so I order for both of us and eat it all. When I walk in, the Owner Operator is quite impressed with my color choice. Blue Shirt, Blue Earrings and Blue Shell Necklace, Blue Polish on my fingernails and just a sea of blue on me. She turns and hands me her Bar Ribbon, which is blue. This is meant for you. I take it with pride and tie it on my pack.

I eat everything and George helps me with the banana. This may be the first hike that I’ve engaged in where I come back weighing more than when I left! I can’t help myself, I am hungry all the time and the food is too good to pass up. I feel like I’m eating for two, both me and George! He needs to start picking up his fair share.

After pounding down toast with all sorts of Vegetables, a slice of Tortilla, which is closer to a quiche, I’m ready to tackle round two. We head out of town and I stop to check out a monument. It’s all in Spanish so I’m not grasping the significance of it all. George checks it out and translates.

The Day of the Holy Innocents on December 28, 1947 at 8:30am, with thick fog, a meterorite fell, which sank about 35 centimeters (cm). It was approximately 23 cm. long, 10 cm wide and 10 cm high. It weighed more than 17 kg (close to 40 pounds) and broke into 3 pieces on impact, causing a great scare to the neighborhood. You think?? It is currently on display at the National Museum of Sciences. Of all the places to fall? It falls smack dab in the middle of this tiny little town of Religios. No one was hurt but what a fright that must have been.

We leave quickly looking for the sky to start falling! The trail continues very flat for a long, long time. There are fields that are loaded with Cotton which is, in fact, falling from the sky. I noticed the last few days of walking, that there is this white fuzz everywhere. No wonder my eyes are itching, and George is all stuffed up. I’m thinking Cottonwood Trees? It’s so thick that it looks like snow on the ground. One of the Bikers called it Chapo.

Once through the fluff we landed in Mansilla de las Mulas. This town is known as the Gateway for Pilgrims. The south-east door of the wall, named DOOR OF SAINT JAMES because it is through it that the pilgrims on the “French Way” enter the town. In the twelfth century, Mansilla was the first stop in the Kingdom of León. Only the side walls remain, and the arch between them has disappeared. This door was built using the same material as the wall, in the shape of a passageway towards the outside.

This town is so rich in history. The town square has a beautiful sculpture depicting three Pilgrims sitting at the foot of a cross. This was created in 1998 by Mr. Ángel Muñiz Alique, Sculpture from Leon. It is a tribute to the pilgrims who walk the Camino de Santiago, which is of great importance to this town. Carved in stone, it represents three pilgrims on the Jacobean route resting, along with Christ. The location is in front of the Puerta Castillo, in an area considered the junction between the Roman Road and the French Camino de Santiago. Another reason I love Spain. They cherish their steep religion, culture and tradition.

With only a few miles to go, we head through the Door of St. James and continue west. Once again the road stays flat, lined with trees to provide enough shade. We cross a few creeks and a small river before making it to Puente del Villarente. It seems like this town is a bit larger than most, separated by Rio Porma. We walked through the new part of town, crossed the bridge and ended up in the Old Town. I really like the ancient towns. They have so much charm and history. We arrived at Albergue San Pelayo.

As soon as I walk in, I see a name plate, Kelly. This is a great start. The gal comes out and it’s like we know each other. You like Blue! Oh do I. That’s a great thing. She walks us to our room and says its quite the coincidence. Nope, it’s exactly what God had planned. Thank you.

George immediately checks out the backyard. Ends up that it used to be stables for cattle and they reconfigured it into an incredible outdoor patio. Beer was flowing, people were laughing and the misters were on! This is our kind of place. We are home!

What a great day. The sun was shining, but not too bright. The trail was flat, with only a bump or two. Everyone likes blue, which is a big plus and my George is feeling like his old self. I couldn’t be happier. We sat around the table tonight having dinner with a couple from Canada, a gal from Pennsylvania and three men from Korea. We ended up closing the place down and planning to meet up for breakfast in the morning. Everyone plans to walk to Leon tomorrow and take a day off or two. The couple from Canada, Carlo and Peggy, plan to arrive in Santiago the same day as George and I. Hopefully there’s enough room for all of us! It’ll be quite the party! As I reflect on the day, I’m so grateful that I am able to share this experience with so many others. What a blessing to have Gods people from all over the world share bread. After all the trials and tribulations, George has broken through and sees the new day, bright with endless possibilities. It just doesn’t get any better.

Such nice people at our Hotel. I got up this morning, dressed and out before 7am. George is taking another rest day so I’m flying solo. I headed downstairs to breakfast. I thought they started serving at 7am but it must be 730am. I was able to get my coffee and yogurt and patiently waited for all the other items to be prepared. They have been so accommodating to George and I, making a special fruit platter yesterday. And now, making me my espresso rather than drip coffee. I ate some fruit, a croissant, and was efficiently fueled for my day.

Within the first five minutes, I met Pilgrim Cari from Florida. She was headed to the same town as I am so we walked together most of the morning. She’s solo and enjoying her time. I believe we will be ending the same day. There’s a lot of Pilgrims finishing mid-June. We have much in common, about the same age and she lost her Mom recently too. We shared our experiences of grieving and our gratefulness that we were with our Mom’s when they passed. It is good to have someone to share this with as my Mom has been so heavy on my heart during this journey.

One of the thoughts that keep replaying in my mind is how much I have. How fortunate I am to have a husband who is sharing this experience with me. How fortunate I am to have my health; my knees and back that are strong enough to carry a pack everyday without much worry. The knowledge that my beautiful daughter is watching our dog and keeping all things in order, taking care of the garden and making sure the house doesn’t burn down. There’s truly so much that I have and really nothing I lack for. As I look at the others on the trail, I never know what troubles they may have or not. Yet we are all here sharing this pathway in hopes of finding some sense of peace, some semblance of solitude and purpose for our life. Everyone I’ve asked about their thoughts have conveyed that they feel a sort of calmness as they accept their placement on this trail. The things that used to bother them seem to disappear. After walking hundreds of miles, you learn to let go of the frustrations, the little things that irritate you and embrace the love that is right in front of your eyes. Each step and every mile continues to bring us closer to the joy that God desires for our lives.

Cari and I make it to our first cafe of the day. I order Hot Tea and she gets Diet Coke. We check out our progress and congratulate ourselves for the miles we have already covered. This is a great reason to walk and talk with another. The miles just chip away. Cari was waiting for her friend Marsha to arrive and I nodded her farewell.

The rest of my day was quite flat. In fact I don’t think there was much more than a speed bump along today’s route. The scenery has been much of the same with wheat and wild grasses, and many more dirt fields as they start harvesting. The poppies are beginning to fade and there’s much more Buttercup and some new looking flowery weeds on the scene.

I received a text from George. He was able to get a Taxi to our future home for the night. He was already checked in and situated by the time I was heading into town.

It was an easy walk from the Green Dotted Trail on the Camino, to our room. Only 150 meters from the trail. In fact, when I arrived, I opened the window and was looking out on the Pilgrims walking the Camino. It’s good to be done for the day. Easy peasy 15 miler! Who says that? Just crazy ole me.

Big plans are not always God’s will. Last night as we were talking about our day, I had considered waking up at 5:30, and hitting the Cafe at 6am. Then we could get in our miles before the heat and make for a better day. George was not sold on the idea.

After close to three weeks of walking, one bout of the flu, five days of antibiotics and a few cases of a mysterious intestinal issue, George is having a relapse of some unknown creepy crud. He was up all night, while I slept like a baby. How do I do that? Probably a combination of exhaustion and plenty of vino.

When the alarm clock went off, George informed me that he was not going to work today! No energy, no motivation, no way! Well then, Plan B. Taxi to next town of Sahugun. We have covered nearly 75 miles in four days and maybe I need to give my partner a Mercy Card! So taxi it is.

I turned off the alarm and slept till 7am. We packed up everything ever so slowly and made our way to the Cafe. All George wanted was Orange Juice. He must be sick because this man drinks coffee every morning of his life! I had enough coffee for both of us. George summoned a taxi and we were on our way to the half way point of the Frances. Not the way I had planned but still, in fact, headed west.

Hotel Puerta of Sahugan is a huge place on the outskirts of town. The Big Hotel was vacant, not a soul around. Our Taxi Driver stayed and made sure we were taken care of. He rang the bell, then called, and after a few minutes, we had help at the Front Desk. Any chance we can checkin early? She called the maid and asked if our room was clean? No, give me 30 minutes and by 10am, we were situated in a nice room. Never ever in the States would they allow that early of a checkin or attempt to stop all progress and clean your room first. I love Spain and their unending hospitality!

Being in town, I decided to wander the streets and obtain our Halfway Compostela at the Monastery. It was on “The Camino” so I was able to get some miles logged. George came along even after my urging him to stay in the room. He managed to walk the .8 miles and then realized that he needed to retreat back to our cozy bed. Good choice.

I wandered into the Monastery and learned much about Bernardino de Rivera, which was changed to Bernardino de Sahagun, after his home town. He was born around 1499, but no one seems to know the exact date. He moved to Salamanca, the center of Spain where he learned Latin, History, Philosophy and Theology. Around the middle of the decade, he decided to enter the Franciscan Order where he was ordained as a priest in 1527.

Two years later, in 1529 and at the age of 29 years old, he along with other friars left for America, to the recently conquered New Spain (Mexico) on an evangelizing mission; They were led by Fray Antonio de Ciudad Rodrigo, in Mexico, where Fray Bernardino would die many years later, in his nineties. This incredible Monastery is still standing and much recognition was given to this Evangelist. Such a tribute!

After obtaining our Mid-Way Compostela, I made it to downtown Sahagun, in the midst of some Festival. The streets were lined with vendors and all the locals were shopping, sitting with their drink of choice, hanging out with friends and family, and doing what they do. It was just where I needed to be. Not my plan, but once again, God’s plan.

I saw a few of my Pilgrim Friends passing by and sat with the locals. The streets were bustling with activity and everyone was in a jovial mood. I found a vendor selling nail polish and figured that’s light enough to carry to Santiago. I sat down, ordered a beer and painted my nails, blue of course!

I headed back to the Hotel and commandeered some Orange Juice and fruit from the Kitchen. I took it up to Sleeping Beauty and he barely budged. Hmm, maybe he really is sick?!?! Poor guy has spent half as much time on the trail as off the trail, with all his ailments! I’m thinking another day off for my partner as I continue solo.

As George was laying in bed, he was wondering what God was trying to teach him? Gosh, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had some bat crazy injury on the trail that I didn’t wonder the same thing. It is between us and our Lord and Savior to work things out. I can tell you this, George has given it his all, fighting through all sorts of adversities, yet he keeps plugging along. Maybe the Lord just wants him to sit, and acknowledge all that he has done rather than what he hasn’t?

I have always been the Polly Anna of this marriage, focusing on the good and rarely the bad. Maybe just maybe, He wants us to focus our eyes on His goodness. And lean on His strength. Then we can see the real beauty that He has in store for us. Just my two cents, whatever it may be worth. Right now, I think rest and sleep is in order so that is the plan. I’ll let you know how that goes.