Day 6: Sitting on a Proper Bench – Continental Divide to The Bench 16 miles

Before I talk about the bench I’m sitting on as I write this blog, I must share the Continental Divide. Last night we had to stop short of the Divide as thunderstorms moved in with lots of rain. Triple-Z found us a relatively flat spot to park ourselves for the night. We set up our homes, aka tents and crawled inside for the remainder of the evening. It rained, no, it poured at midnight for another round. Luckily, we both survived and stayed as snug as a bug in a rug! I had my long Johns on with my down pants, down jacket, socks and was cozy inside my 10 degree down quilt. It’s equivalent to a 5 star hotel. Well that might be a stretch but for backpacking standards, it rates 10/10!

Luckily the rain stopped and we were on the trail just after 5am. This morning was exceptional! When I honestly can’t believe it can get any better, God knocks my socks off with His artistry. The Continental Divide is just short of 12000′ and it is the dividing point for headwaters to run east or west. All I can tell you is it is one of the most beautiful places on earth! There are peaks in every direction, some are jagged with snow fields while others are red and green with minerals, rounded at the tops. The trail is clear of debris, beautifully raked and soft duff underfoot. It was my most favorite morning of this journey.

Our gear was pretty wet from the night before so once on the top of the divide, we laid out our tents and sleeping bags. It took only a few minutes to dry our belongings but we stayed for a bit and embraced the beauty of this place.

As we continued over the Divide, we entered a utopia of the healthiest forest I have ever laid eyes on. The trees were evergreen, lush and tall. I typically compare beauty for what I know near my home in Lake Tahoe. We have a few variety of trees but in Colorado, there is every make and model of pines, evergreens, cedars, with some sprinkling in of aspens. It’s overwhelming to the senses. Both Triple-Z and I have been sneezing daily from the new smells and pollens that our noise is just becoming acquainted to. I have no clogged sinuses, that’s for sure.

We headed down hill for 2500′ and started hearing dogs barking excessively. I thought maybe they treed a bear, or there was a huge dog fight. But this was different. It sounded like a pack of dogs! When we rounded the corner, there was a huge enclosure with husky’s, no less than 50 of them, who are dog sled trained. The handler was in the kennels feeding them and they evidentially where quite hungry!

We made it to our lunch spot on the river and guess who decided to soak her feet? Yep, Triple-Z and I are having lunch while sitting, and engulfing in the best pastime of the trail. Let alone our feet are filthy, but this also helps with the swelling as we are walking quite a few miles daily. It is purely exhilarating as this is snow melt and the water temps can’t be much more than 50 degrees! But once you’re in for a minute or two, they are just numb and you don’t feel the pain any longer. Well, at least I don’t. Triple-Z is still out on whether she calls this enjoyment or just painful. I’ll give her some time. By the time we hit Durango, she’ll be converted in more ways than she knows!

We had some pretty remarkable encounters with birds today. I think this is Colorado’s version of a blue jay, maybe a scrub jay. They tend to follow us down the trail, most likely looking for a handout. Triple-Z says that birds are angels sent from heaven to meet us on earth. I like that analogy. We saw tons of Woodpeckers, Jays, Sparrow’s, Finches and even a Hawk.

We made it to our bench, a highly coveted camp spot that overlooks the valley below. As we set up camp, it was obvious that this place can create some blasting winds. Well, it didn’t disappoint because as I’m enjoying the lovely view, a northern wind came blowing through our pristine site and I have an inch of dust, dirt and grime in my tent! No worries, I’m just as filthy as my tent now, but come tomorrow, I’ll be clean. Yep, we are headed to the town of Frisco for showers, proper laundry and good food! Oh the simple pleasures of flush toilets and running water.

But you Lord. Are the shield that protects me, my glory who lifts my head up high, I call out to the Lord and He answers me from His Holy mountain. Psalms 3:3-4

Day 5: Glorious Open Spaces – Bull Elk Meadow to Continental Divide 15 miles

Between the squirrels scurrying around, the birds chirping and the elk bugling, it’s amazing I was able to sleep at all! I feel like I am sleeping in a zoo but one without cages or enclosures, just wide open spaces. It boggles my mind that I get to participate in this miracle of nature.

Another picture perfect sunrise overlooking Kenosha Pass. It’s hard to get the miles in when all you want to do is take pictures. As we made it to the ridge line, I looked down because them darn elks were making so much noise again! There was a herd of 40-50 elk grazing in the meadow about 1000′ below us. They were slowly making their way to higher ground. It was pretty remarkable to witness such a thing. My husband George would have done anything to sneak up on one. I just looked from afar and marveled at such loud and magnificent creatures they are.

Once we made it to the local campground, we found a hand water pump and yes, this is how we wash our stinky laundry. We placed our dirty grimy socks, underwear (I know, not the way I do laundry at home either) and assortment of bandanas and yes, my pee rag. Maybe too much information, but I let the cat out of the bag now. I use a pee rag instead of tons of toilet paper, which once used you need to pack out. My pee rag is one item in my backpack, that only has one use, to wipe after peeing. And I’m doing my part to help out the rest of you so you can get your supply of toilet paper! After our laundry was somewhat clean, we filled our water bottles and headed up another hill.

This was a day to remember for all the long reaching vistas with mountains encapsulating the valleys below. I think if I was a cow, this is where I would want to live! It’s so lush and green, and few people live here. But what there are a lot of, is mountain bikers.

I saw more fat tires on the CT, than I’ve ever seen at any bike shop. They typically ride in packs like wolves, so once you see them, you’re gonna see them again on the flip-flop. Here on the CT, we give bikes the right-of-way. They are faster, bigger and it’s much easier for me to move over than for them to maneuver off the trail. I like to mountain bike but I don’t know if I have the ability to ride the trails here. There are countless rocks, roots, fallen trees and logs that block your trail and it just seems like too much work. I’ll stick to what I do best and that’s hiking.

Triple Z and I had a wonderful day today. I think we are getting into a rhythm that suits us both. Honestly we haven’t hiked much together, but we both have hiked many miles on various trails. We have different styles of hiking. She likes to get up super early, eats while she hikes, and hike all day long. I would rather sleep in and wake up with the birds, have breakfast in my tent, hike a few miles and stop to snack, hike a few more miles and soak my feet and wander into camp around 5pm. We have made some sanctions and I’m getting up early, but Triple Z is experiencing a much more relaxed pace. She is indulging in the foot soaking exercise at noon and we are compromising on the miles we hike daily. It’s like a marriage on the trail. No one gets there way all the time, but we get to experience this life on the trail together. And that is truly a gift!

You my brothers and sisters were called to be free. But do not use your freedom to indulge the flesh, rather serve each other humbly in love. Galatians 5:13

Day 3: Climb, Climb & Climb – Buffalo Creek to Brookside McCurdy 13 miles

After yesterday’s long hike, we decided to take it easy today on the mileage. However we made up for the miles by climbing 3300′ elevation. We topped out at 10564′ which about sucked the oxygen out of me!

Early morning start is beginning to be our MO. At 4am, even the birds aren’t chirping yet. The benefits to getting up at this absurd hour is we can knocked out the miles before we 1) get baked, or 2) escape certain weather storms that come and 3) get to camp early so we can clean up, do laundry and maybe rest just a bit. I’m not used to the 4am wake up quite yet but I understand the benefits.

Today was picture perfect. God did another wonderful sunrise painting for us with pinks and oranges and there is something about walking in the early morning when no one else is in the trail. That’s because they are sleeping!

The climb started as soon as we crossed the river that we slept at the night before and didn’t stop until past noon. I must admit that I have done some climbing in the past like training hill in Auburn, but that’s at 1500′ and climbs only 1000 feet. This was a slow but steady climb until we hit 9500′ and then, it was granny gear for me all the way up.

What was surprising was the topography. Colorado has a way of manicuring their forest. As I was taking in the sights of these tall majestic pine trees, I noticed there is no undergrowth. It’s as if a gardener came and rack it all, remove any twig or branch and perfected the ground. It was parklike. Where I live, we have tons of underbrush, which is a tinder box waiting for a spark to ignite it.

Then you turn the next corner and there’s a forest of old growth Aspens that reach the heavens. It’s magnificent and helps me take my thought off the fact that I can’t breathe because I’m reaching 10,000′!

We had a lovely Creek to capture icy cold water from surrounded by purple and pink flowers. I don’t know what they were, but they were perfectly placed near the rocks that that water cascaded over. It boggles my mind when humans deny that there is a wonderful creator who designed this beauty for us to behold. It’s without a doubt only by creation that such plants, flowers, waters and insects can flourish in perfect harmony.

Once we made our peak, which was through the trees with no dramatic view, we started back down. It was an easy grade down. After two more miles, we came to this unexpected meadow that was the foreground for another unnamed peak. It’s hard to photograph this area. Nothing really gives you the dimension of the vastness of it.

We continued on to our home, a plateau above a creek that gives way to this scrub brush that animals must visit. It has everything that could desire. I’ll wait up for sunset and see if I can capture some deer grazing.

Day 4: America the Beautiful – Brookside McCurdy to Bull Elk Meadows 19 miles hi

Oh what a stupendous day. Well, Triple-Z’s alarm went off at 4am, and I slept right through it. She had to get out of her tent to wake me up. My bad! I was dreaming of eating cake, many kinds of cake at a cake sale. And to think I’ve only been hiking for four days. Hiker hunger is already kicking in.

Have I spoke of the mornings? When we left camp this morning, we followed a high alpine meadow. There is a wide meandering River that flows through it, with scrub and sage scattered throughout. The meadow went on for five miles, quite exposed with some sprinkling of redwood cedars and pines. We hit the flower bloom at the perfect time. Columbines, Indian Paintbrush, Blue Bells, everywhere you looked God was showing off with His brilliance.

As we hiked through the meadow, ever so slowly, I caught a glimpse of a deer grazing, tons of cotton tails, chipmunks and squirrels and a tiny mouse ran across the trail in front of me. I saw tons of Elk droppings but no elk.

Once we headed out of the meadow, we were on top of this rim that overlooked a huge valley below. I believe it is Jefferson as that’s the only place on my map. It’s so vast and wide and all I could do was break out in the song “America the Beautiful”. Colorado is truly a magical place!

We had plenty of water today and no thunderstorms. It was by far the best temperate day to walk in yet. Never had to dawn my umbrella and sweated only a little bit. Well, if you smelled me, I’m sure you’d say that’s not true. I stink to high heaven and my clothes are worse. So you may ask, what is the hardest part of being a thru-hiker? It’s the filth. It doesn’t matter how many wipes I have, it’s never enough. And bathing in a creek is a luxury when you hike 19 miles a day. So tonight I’ll be dreaming of bubble baths and laundry mats!

The mountains, valleys and plains were breathtaking. Around every corner there was so much beauty, flowers, snow capped peaks in the distance and places to rehydrate. I met the nicest gals today, Angie and Sam, mid-30’s. They have been out for over a week and plan to go the distance. The problem is Sam has 11 blisters in her feet. Yep, that’s possible and she is still hiking. Her friend Angie, who has never backpacked a day in her life has two bum knees and a sprained ankle! I have been called many things but it appears my expanded trail name is Nurse GiGi. I have become the trail expert on KT tape. I wrapped Angie’s knee, just one because that’s all she told me was hurting. Then after five hours, she hiked to our camped and asked if I could wrap her other knee as she videotaped me so she could do it herself later. Hikers are a tough bunch! As I always say, anyone can do the miles but you have to have a strong mind to finish the trail. There is much pain, suffering and agony, but in the end, oh the sweetness of the sights you see are oh, so worth it.

We relaxed in our campsite only to hear the cries of Bull Elk across the meadow. They appear to be getting closer and I’m wondering if this could be rut season? There must be hundreds of them, bugling all night long! I’ll stay put in the safe confines of my single-walled nylon tent. How truly blessed and thankful I am to witness such a place as this.

In everything give thanks; for this is the will of God in Christ Jesus for you. 1 Thessalonians 5:18

Day 2: Snakes and More Bears – S Platte River to Buffalo Creek 19 m

Uneventful night, except for the water snake that slithered past my feet as I was in the River bathing. I think he was definitely more afraid of me. Not that I have big feet because actually my feet are fairly small. But when I went to pick him up, he swam as fast as a snake can swim!

We woke up at 4am and were on trail at 5am. The sun had not rose yet but I did see the beautiful pinks and oranges high above on the desert rocks. Absolutely beautiful sight as God paints this amazing picture morning after morning. I just need to be awake to see it.

The early morning was due to the fact that Colorado is experiencing a heatwave. No rain in sight. No lightning or thunderstorms in the forecast, just glorious hot sunny days. Both Triple Z and myself have chrome domes. These are hiking umbrellas that provide shade overhead and when properly zip tied onto my backpack, they provide a good 10-15 degrees cooler temperatures to the hikers that use them. We were so grateful for these as literally everyone on the trail commented on them! If I had a trailer behind me loaded with extra Chrome Domes, I could’ve sold every single one.

The Burned area that was spoken of was quite a small region in comparison to the fire scarred areas I saw on the Pacific Crest Trail PCT. New growth was sprouting up, many redwood cedars, pines and a handful of aspen trees. But mostly low lying grasses, flowers, and butterflies. I’ve never seen so many butterflies, blue, yellow and purple ones all over the trail.

As I rounded the corner, I saw my second snake. In Colorado, they have only one dangerous snake, rattler. This was more like a gardener snake, no rattle and no cares that I was there. He just slithered past and went into a bush.

As we entered Section 2 of the CT, we had our second sighting of a bear. This was a small cuddly stuffed bear on the side of the trail but I couldn’t help yelling Bear! Triple Z had to take a photo as she slept through the first bear sighting.

Water hunting is a common theme around these parts. We originally had planned to stop at Morrison Creek for the night. The Creek was nothing but a tarry like substance that did not resemble anything H2O. We continued on another four plus miles and found home at Buffalo Creek. Lots of trees, pines mostly and heavy flowing creek to bathe in without snakes.

Today was a tough day. Being my second day out, climbing 2500′ , hiking in 95 degree temps, and hiking 19 miles, my dawgs were aching! As I hiked the last few extra credit miles, I could over think about the verse in James

Consider trials and tribulations pure joy my brothers and sisters, for perseverance develops character, so that you may lack nothing.

James 1:2-4

Day 1: On the Trail: Indian Creek to S. Platte River 10 miles

We woke up last night to find a baby bear at our site. Oh no! Mamma Bear was killed recently so this little guy is trying to fend for himself. He’s still scared of humans because once I yelled at him, he ran for the woods. Problem was he brought back reinforcements and rummaged again through our site. Silly me packed everything up minus my lunch sack for today. So now the bear is Growling French after eating my Brie Cheese and Summer Sausage. I feel terrible about forgetting my food outside my tent. Such a rookie mistake!

Our hike this morning started out cool and shady. We hooked into the Colorado Trail CT about three miles up canyon from Indian Creek. We added a few extra miles but lost the gravel road walk on the CT which is a fair trade.

We met our first Bikerpacker, Joe. He is going the distance on the trail riding a mountain bike from Waterton to Durango, same as us but in half the time, 15 days. It’s gonna take us 33 days in our perfect world.

We made the climb out of Bear Creek Canyon, appropriately name for the area. Once on the ridge line, we could see the Fourteeners’ in the distance. Colorado has over 40 such peaks! We will be hiking past quite a few and if we have a spare day, we just might bag a peak. No promises!

Our biggest issue today was twofold. Water reports are misleading and once out of the trees and onto the ridge lines, it was mighty hot! I follow Guthook maps which if updated, are quite reliable. It appears that no one has been putting real time reports in for over two weeks. Streams that were flowing or even trickling are non-existent. Well they are there, but only dry rock beds! We managed to scoop some water from standing pools but that ended 6-7 miles prior to our next reliable source. Luckily I filled up at the last water pool and only ran out of water as I approached the S. Platte River. Plenty of water here.

With the lack of water, we stopped briefly for lunch and headed to camp. We found a lovely spot protected by willows and a short jaunt to the river Platte. Tomorrow we plan to get up at 4am, not a typo, and get on the trail by sunrise. No water for 14.5 miles in a burned out section that has total exposure. This should be a treat. But the locals say “it’s beautiful.” I’ll let you know how stunning it is after I’ve marched through it.

Thank you Holy Spirit, for Your power and might on my behalf. Thank you that Your Spirit in me is “a fountain of water springing up into everlasting life”

John 4:14

T minus 1

Rise and shine. O’dark thirty comes much too early! At 3:30 am, even my dog put her paws over her eyes. Dogs have a way of making you feel guilty. She has been watching me pack, repack, and pack again for the past few days. She knows the routine. The backpack comes out. There’s gear all over the den and after a couple of days of deciding what I want compared to what I truly need, the items are reduced down to just a few.

One outfit for the trail, and only a few other items that I am willing to carry on my back for the next five weeks! It’s a process that happens every time I venture into the wilderness. Only a few make the cut and the majority go back into the box. The dog, Zoey, knows she’s not coming and she just gives me the look. Big brown eyes, tail between her legs and Momma leaving her again. It’s quite the guilt trip. I tell her that next time, she’ll be hiking the trails with me. But that doesn’t justify that I’ll be gone for 40 days which in dog years is close to a year! Now I feel guilty too!

Karen and I arrive at Sacramento Airport, with our backpacks in large trash bags to protect it from certain fatality of a conveyor belt. When I place it on the scale, the attendant ask, do you have any batteries? Well of course I do. A battery pack to charge my phone, a battery inside my headlamp and maybe other batteries that I couldn’t recall. Well then, you must remove them from your pack! Seriously? Yep, serious as a heart attack. Apparently as they man handle your precious pack, the batteries can get hot, spark and start a fire in the hull of the plane. So with that, I start digging through my pack, removing such fire starters, and frantically rewrap my backpack in such an unorthodox manner that all I can think is… will everything be scattered as it comes down the exit shoot at the final terminal? And to think, I haven’t even arrived in Denver yet. This is going to be a long day.

What a relief as I saw the big black trash bag getting loaded onto leg #2. American Airlines rocks the baggage department.

Made a phone call to the local sporting goods store in Denver. It seems that there is a lack of supply for fuel canisters this season. I talked with Jeff and he pulled two medium canisters being that the small ones were sold out. Hmm, guess this will be a year of limited supplies. Remember the toilet paper wars?

And the adventure continues. Picked up my pack from baggage to find my very important Aqua Mira busted and leaked. So one more stop for fuel and a Sawyer Mini. The shelves were picked clean and hunters must not need Aqua Mira. They must have tougher inners than me.

With all things COVID this year, Waterton has had an influx of hikers. The trailhead has been closed with an alternate start at Indian Creek Campground. It will be a little extra credit but will eventually intersect CT. I’m excited to see this portion of the trail as I’ve heard it is quite beautiful with a bit of climbing. Of course we get to start this trail with a climb to Lenny’s Bench.

Tonight we will camp at the campground, get our packs ready for the next few weeks of trekking and get acquainted with the altitude in Colorado. Breathe what you can, and breathe some more.

The one thing I remember from my visits to Colorado before is that they sell oxygen in a can?!? I haven’t tried it but imagine many have. I’ll let you know if I need to indulge.

Indian Creek CG is bare bones in the sense that there is no running water, only pit toilets and not much in the scenery department. But what Indian Creek does have is a super Camp Host Dan who gave us a gallon of water, a free campsite and a personal tour of the grounds which included a stop at the TH.

Now begins the waiting game. Wait for the sun to set, for my eyes to close and for the sun to rise to a new dawn. Yes tomorrow is D-Day! The day to find out if I still have what it takes to hike for days, for weeks and even a month? Look out CT, Geisha Girl and Triple Z, aka Karen Z are hitting the trail.

Back on the Trail 2020

I lift my eyes to the mountains and wonder where does my help come from? My help comes from the Lord, the maker of heaven and earth.

Psalm 121:1-2

Five years ago I ventured out and hiked the Pacific Crest Trail from Mexico to Canada. When I think back on it, at times it feels like yesterday, other times it seems like a lifetime ago.

This year was to be the year that I trekked with my husband George. We had plans to walk the Camino in Spain, a pilgrimage of sorts. But we all know how plans are only that. Until you take the first step on the trail, it is only a planned event. With all that happened in 2020, our desire to share a trail together, vanished. We stayed put in our humble abode and brought Spain to our backyard. We tilled the soil, planted a garden, sod, grape vines and most of all, sunflowers! It’s our Spain and we will plan another time to visit and walk the Camino.

But for me, I could not sit and wait for another year. After much thought and trusting in the Lord to open doors, I am heading back to the trail.

It’s a start and a dream to hike yearly. No, it’s actually a passion and a calling to be in Gods creation, slowing down, being with Him one on one, and experiencing all of this vast and amazing world He created for us.

After squeezing in a few treks in the past years, Wonderland Trail in Washington, sections of the PCT, Sequoia and Kings Canyon, I yearned for another long distant hike.

Colorado Trail hit the marks. First of all, with all things COVID this year, it is one of the trails that you can leave little disturbance in the local community. I have hiked close to 200 miles on the Colorado Trail a couple of years back but I truly wanted to do a full, uninterrupted foot path from Watertown to Durango. It’s 475 miles, less than a quarter of the PCT, yet is has the splendor and grandeur of trails much shorter.

I fly out mañana and hit the trail Friday, July 10th. I have a sidekick who will be hiking with me this go-around, Karen Z from the PCT. She hiked a couple of years after me and we have much in common. She is blonde, the same age as me (both celebrating 60 this year) and love the great outdoors!

Buckle up and get ready for the adventures of GiGi, aka Geisha Girl and our Heavenly Father. May He inspire you to be the best version of you, love like He loves and provide contentment right where you are!

My intention is to post daily, depending on service and all that! Look forward to seeing our glorious Father directing me in all things trail, growing my faith deeper and opening my heart to His amazing & incredible creation.

Tomorrow we fly, like eagles!