Day 28: November 1, 23’ All Saints Day- Santiago 23.9 Km; Total: 309.3Mi

Oh my goodness. We did it! Well let’s not get ahead of ourselves. My hiking partner has not been feeling 100% the last couple of days. There definitely is a bug circling camp because I’ve heard of a few Pilgrims that are down for the count. I’m too mean and awry to get any virus taking hold of me, but George is much nicer so they flock towards him.

Goodbye Padron

Our plan was to be up and out by 8am. Well we made it at 830am and I was mighty happy with that. It wasn’t going to be a Blue Bird day today so I struggled, huffed and puffed and finally got my pack cover on. Somehow my pack cover is the wrong size. It came with the pack so it’s not like I bought the wrong size. But during the putting together of pack and cover, the wrong sized cover was placed inside my pack. Every time I need to place it over my pack, there is a lot of language that isn’t appropriate. It’s a chore beyond chores! Today was the last time this girl will struggle with her itty bitty teeny tiny pack cover!

My Itty Bitty Teeny Tiny Backpack Cover

We had fifteen miles to cover with uphill climbs. I knew it was going to be a push for my sick partner, so I wanted to give us plenty of time. We headed out and within a few minutes, we saw our first Pilgrims. Rosemary and Joe from Canada were in front of us. We talked and they asked if we saw all the flowers on the graves yesterday? I commented that I did. In fact, when I made it into town yesterday, I could smell the flowers. Each graveside had huge bouquets on them. So what’s that all about?

Each Graveside Was Adorned with Bouquets of Flowers

All Saints’ Day, is also called All Hallows’ Day, Hallowmas, or Feast of All Saints. In the Christian Church, it is a day commemorating all the saints of the church, both known and unknown, who have attained heaven. It is celebrated on November 1 in the Western Churches and on the first Sunday after Pentecost in the Eastern Churches. In Roman Catholicism, the feast is usually a holy day of obligation. Here in Spain, it is a National Holiday and families and friends pay respect to the dead by adoring their gravesides with flowers and reefs. It is quite revered by the Spanish Catholics. Each place we passed had hundreds of flowers atop of each grave. It was quite a beautiful scene to behold.

Even the Cat Was Perched Atop A Graveside- Wonder if That Was His Owner

No wonder there were no cars or people on the streets this morning. We couldn’t understand where everyone was?! I had a friend Marilyn who commented on my blog. She asked why there were hardly any cars or people in my pictures? I told her I usually crop them out to make the picture look less cluttered. But today, I needed no cropping because no one was mulling around.

The City Streets of Pazos

We walked on the highway for the first 5-6 miles. We actually could’ve followed the Portuguese Way but I was trying to take a few shortcuts so George wouldn’t have to walk so far. He wants so much to finish this out strong but doesn’t have the energy this morning.

Looking Down from A Church in Tarrio

We found a Cafe and stopped for our morning espresso. That should help. We stayed for a bit, saw a few pilgrims, rested up, then hit the trail. I moved us off the highway as it was so loud and I really wanted our final day to be something special.

Our Final Day on The Camino

Once back on the country roads, it quieted down. The trail was devoid of traffic and it was, in fact, The Camiño. We ran into the Mother & Daughter Duo from Czech-Republic. They were also attempting to do the last fifteen miles today. I think most everyone wanted to finish before the big bad wind storm showed up. The News from smarty pants “Alexa” warned of a severe wind event coming to Santiago this evening. Bring it on! We have seen it all so a wind event is nothing the Baraga’s can’t handle. Words I soon will eat!

Mom & Daughter from Czech-Republic

The last ten miles were a series of mostly ups. Santiago I found, is on top of a hill. It is the highest point at 886’ on the Portuguese Coastal Route. So we started our climb. George has been doing the climbs quite well and is like the little Choo-Choo Train that could. Most of our hills were through old towns with few people. I’m not sure but being “All Saints Day” there’s a good chance everyone’s at church.

Rural Towns

We kept seeing signs for “Pilgrims Meals”. It would be our lunch stop. Four kilometers to go, then after an hour, we had one long kilometer to the O’ Camino Restaurant. We headed a bit off the trail and landed at the best place on the Portuguese Way of the Camino.

I Was So Hungry I Could Eat Guords

O’ Camino is decorated so well. It has full maps on the walls with every Camino laid out. The wall next to where George and I sat was the Portuguese Way, which was the highlight of this Restaurant being that’s the route in which it resides on. I started to get so emotional seeing how far we had gone, especially for George. This has been an incredible experience for the both of us, and the longest distance that George has ever undergone. Let’s be real, this is the only long distance hike he’s ever done and to think he walked over 300 miles! That’s something I’ll never forget. Way to go George!

Top Map is the Portuguese Way

We had the nicest waitress. I asked her what their specialty is and she went right to the Pilgrims Meal. Galician Soup and Sea Bass. Bam, that’s exactly what I want. George decided on something he knew he couldn’t go wrong with. A Burger and Fries. The soup was the best I’ve had. Galician Soup is a Chicken Broth with Greens, typically kale and white potatoes. It was so good. I asked our gal if they had Tabasco, which no one ever offers. Oh yes, she tells me. She tells me she’s Mexican and brings three kinds of Tabasco. Bless your heart. I love this woman!

All Walls Lead to Santiago

We stayed for a good hour or so but finally needed to make our way to Santiago. We were 8.5 kilometers away, with mostly ups and a little down. George and I headed back onto our route and planned to finish what we started. After four weeks and 28 days, and not a lot of time off since Porto, I was ready to see the Church.

Getting Closer – Only 5 Kilometers 2 Go

The wind came in a bit earlier than expected and the rain was wet. I guess that’s what rain is, wet! We ran into Rosemary and Joe and walked with them into the City. At this point, we veered off to our Hotel for the evening. I was soaked to the bone, George was sick and we both wanted to get to our room, remove our packs and get some dry clothes on.

George & I with Rosemary & Joe

After taking a long hot bath, and both of us changing into something dry, we headed to the Cathedral. We brought our umbrellas because it was raining. Imagine that? There are so many gift shops along the way. George loves shopping and he is on the hunt for a tiled Scalloped Shell that he can put on our Mailbox back at home. I am on the hunt for Santiago de Compostela and that’s all that is on my mind right now.

Santiago de Compostela

We headed down a narrow street, and run into a couple of the Pilgrims that we have been walking with for the past week. We congratulate one another and continue up to the church. It’s windy and wet but that’s not going to damper my enthusiasm. At last, after walking over 300 miles we have arrived.

Oh My Goodness – We Finished!

There’s only a handful of people here with the miserable weather but we are going to celebrate! We look for the Pilgrims Office, which we find out has closed. Tomorrow we will be back for our Compostela. We both inflate our umbrellas and run to find a Restaurant, both to eat and take cover.

George’s Congratulatory Dessert

Our celebratory meal includes pizza, salad and George had Chinese Rolls. I drank two glasses of Sangria and George had coffee. I think we both were exhausted and just elated to know our Pilgrimage is complete.

Good Morning Santiago – The Day After

There will be much reflection in the days to come. We will partake in the Pilgrims Mass and ride a Bus, not walk, to Finisterre. I will finish this off for the day but there will be more of the Adventures of the Baraga’s to come. Until we meet again, continue to stretch your imagination, do what you think you cannot achieve and thank God for all he has provided!

That’s a Wrap!
Only God truly knows what we are capable of doing, physically, mentally and spiritually. Thank you Lord for always being my strength! And number one Cheerleader!

Day 27: October 31, 23’ Caldas de Reis – Padron 18.4 Km; Total: 294.5 Mi

Another great night of sleep. I’m back into a rhythm of wonderful restful sleep. George, not as much. Poor guy woke up this morning and was feeling under the weather. Good thing we have a short day. We packed and headed out for a short 12 miles.

Caldas de Reis Water Way

Today was the first day that I didn’t put on my pack cover! It was blue skies and I surely didn’t want to think anything negative. Placing a pack cover on a dry pack with blue skies is just absurd.

No Umbrella – No Pack Cover ☀️

The morning was cool and great temperature for walking. The town was a flurry of motorized vehicles and kids walking to school. I saw a ton of Piligrinos walking on the trail today. More than even yesterday.

Lots of Pilgrims Heading to Santiago

The trail was nice. No big grades, just comfortable ups and downs. There was a cafe around the five kilometer mark. I stopped for my morning espresso. But was I ever surprised when they had a traditional American Breakfast. Bacon, Eggs, Sausage and Coffee. You got to be kidding me. Yes please! The breakfast came and sure as they advertised there was all that they said but the sausage was, well, a hot dog! I was laughing when I saw it but ate it up. The eggs were so fresh with yolks that were bright orange. It was so dang good!

Okay – So I Already Ate Some

I was talking with George about this gal that we saw the last couple of days. Most the pilgrim’s we’ve been walking around are new to the trail. But this one blonde, I could swear we saw her back on day one or two. I struck up a conversation with her and sure as I speculated, I met her on Day Two. Delphine is from Paris but lives in Barcelona. She likes sunshine and says it’s too cold in France. We walked most the morning together. She too, is not feeling so well. There must be a bug going around.

Me & Delphine

Today was the first day in over a week that we didn’t have a drop of rain. I think it’s because I didn’t put my pack cover on! I just might keep it off till we make our way to Santiago. Less than 25 kilometers and we will be singing praises!

Beautiful Old Church Against Blue Sky

Our day had one big hill climb but in reality, it’s really not much. I’m going to guess it may have been 800’ more or less with the ups and downs. In my mind, a climb is 2500-4000 feet, anything less than that is a bump in the road. But when this is all you’ve done, then yes, anything over a few hundred meters is a climb. Many pilgrims were stopping and taking breaks along the way. That’s the best part of the Camino. There’s always a bench, a cafe or a place to gather yourself.

Our Mega Hill Climb Up & Over Santa Marina of Carracedo

I haven’t spoke of the Pilgrim Patrol. They are Officers who watch out for Pilgrims. I noticed them much more when the weather is foul. They patrol up and down the pathways looking for anyone who might need some extra help, a ride or first aid. Delphine and I were talking when they drove up from behind us. It was such a narrow road and they barely fit their Jeep on this washed out road, but there they were. We scooted to the side as they slowly passed us. As we came around the corner, their patrol vehicle was stopped. A tree had fallen and some rocks were strung across the narrow road. They were moving everything off the trail. Delphine speaks three languages, French, Spanish and English. She started talking with the Officers and before I knew, I was getting my picture with them. Bravo Delphine. She’s a good gal to be walking with!

Me & The Pilgrim Patrol Officers

I had scored us a nice apartment in Padron and typical checkin is 3pm. Upon contacting the owner, they told me the place was clean and ready. We arrived by 2pm. Another incredible location and nice spot to lay our heads. The best part is the washer and dryer. George and I haven’t done laundry for a week. The issue is we only have one outfit that we hike in, and another for after hours, so laundry is quite important.

Interesting Ceiling Art

We stripped and everything we owned was in the washer! Yeah, we will be smelling fresh and clean when we arrive to Santiago tomorrow! Yep, you read that correct. After four weeks of walking the Camino, the Baraga’s will be finishing their pilgrimage.

Padron by Rio SAR

George and I talked a bit about how we feel regarding this walk. It has been monumental in the fact that it is something we shared as a couple. I don’t think it will truly set in until we arrive at the Cathedral, Santiago de Compostela. But it’s feeling pretty great right now. I am so impressed with what George has done in these past four weeks. From the moment we exited the plane in Lisbon, he has been on his feet, doing countless miles day after day. I finally have the hiking partner that I’ve been dreaming of. My prayers were answered once again. Thanks God!

Something Worth Waiting For

I didn’t know that Halloween is a worldwide holiday?! George and I went out to grab a bite to eat. Kids are walking around with faces painted and going from store to store, asking for candy. They don’t have the elaborate costumes that I see in the states, but a lot of make-up. It seems that this weird tradition is here to stay.

Halloween in Spain 🇪🇸

We are going to bed early tonight. Our plan is to get up earlier and be on our way by 8am. I know, that’s not early but the sun will just be rising by then. Our final walk into a place that we have been dreaming of for the past five years. Until tomorrow, have a sunshine filled day. We sure did.

Brilliant Hydrangeas
This is the time and the place that God had destined. It is His perfect timing.

Day 26: October 30, 23’ Verde-Caldas de Reis 21.3 Km; Total: 283.0Mi

I love weather guessers! They want to expound on doom and gloom, but rarely is that really the story. Granite, we had some crazy downpours last night. And again this morning. But once again, we were all cuddled up in the confines of our 3-4 Star Accommodations. I’m sorry, but seriously, nothing is going to happen to us. Now if I was in my tent, that would be a completely different story. But I’m not on the Appalachian Trail! I’m on the Camiño where life is as good as it gets.

Rainy Outside but Warm Inside

We made coffee. Well in reality, George made coffee and I posted the blog. We packed up, grab two apples for the road, and headed out the door. First stop was the Farmacia for Vitamin I as I affectionally call Ibuprofen. It’s what keeps us moving without screaming. This go around, we bought two boxes. Enough to keep us going for the upcoming days on the trail.

All Decked Out & Ready 2 Go

The rain was relentless and our umbrellas were deployed. As we headed out, we saw many pilgrims. I must admit, Pilgrims are hardcore and weather does not scare them one iota. We saw no less than 15-20 others that weee braving the elements. No one was taking a taxi or a bus! They were all walking and pretty darn joyful! No complaining!

Love This Sign

We had a variety of terrain today from city streets, to rural roads and dirt parts. I think this is one of the best aspects of the Camiño. If you don’t like asphalt, no problem. Because in a kilometer or two, you’ll be on a dirt trail. Oh you don’t like dirt trails, it’s okay because up ahead is cobble stones. It’s such a variety of surfaces we walk on.

Headed to Alba

Just before noon, we found an Albergue that had a stupendous cafe and diner. George and I were famished as we didn’t have a proper dinner the night before and only had an apple for breakfast. It was amazing we made it this far! Funny, we have more than our fair share of fat to burn! And fat we burned all the way to San Amaro.

A Posada Alberque

I had a Spanish Omelet which is primarily eggs with potatoes and George had a Sandwich with Jamon. After that I had traditional Galicia Soup made from Kale and Potatoes in a Chicken Brith. And George had his Espresso with an Almond Tart. We were filled to the brim and ready to get back on the trail.

Traditional Galician Soup

It was raining off and on, but we finally experienced our first hail storm in Spain. I didn’t realize it was that cold but evidently it was. Little baby ice started falling from the sky. Oh my goodness! It didn’t last long, but long enough to know that we just walked through a hail storm.

George Isn’t Singing in the Rain

We managed to bust out ten or so miles before we walked into another cafe. You might think, wow George and Kelly are frequent flyers to Cafes. Well, you would be right but so are all the other Pilgrims. We kept on seeing the same 15-20 Pilgrims and we all were stopping at every possible place that had something to eat or drink. Especially with todays weather phenomenons, we all required some extra fuel and nourishment.

Another Cafe – More Espresso Please

George was moving good today. No really complaints besides the usual, are we there yet? His foot was sore from his big bad blister that seems to be spreading like Poison Oak. It started as one blister, then grew another head on it, and yet another toe. It’s the craziest thing I’ve ever witnessed. Poor guy. It’s gotta hurt. No I promise not to post a picture of his ugly foot.

Afternoon Sunshine ☀️

With less than a couple of miles, the skies cleared up enough that we dropped our jackets. It was downright warm outside. We met a sweet Border Collie along the way. She so reminded me of our dog Zoey. She was playing with us and I indulged. I started running up and down the fence with her. She was herding me the best she could with a fence separating the two of us. It was the first time this past month that I was truly huffing and puffing. Leave it to a dog to wear me out!

Sweet Zoey Lookalike

We made it to Casa Herreira in Caldas de Reis. it’s a small town with lots of farmlands and beautiful churches. The big deal here in a town of less than 10,000 people are the thermal baths that have been known for their healing powers. George and I must check these out! Healing sounds right up our alley.

Backyard at Casa Herreira

We made it into our digs for the night. The owner and operator met us at the door and showed us around. There’s a lovely patio in the back with comfy furniture and a refrigerator filled with many adult beverages. All for your enjoyment. You got to be kidding me, plus all the tea and coffee one could ask for.

Back Patio Coffee Bar

We were escorted to our room for the night. It was on the second floor with a spectacular view of the garden below and the hills in the background. I think we’ll stay for awhile. We went downstairs and partook in the beverages. No one else was there, so we had the place to ourselves. This is incredible.

Chocolates on Our Bed

I headed upstairs, showered and prepared for a night on the town. After George cleaned up, we walked into the Town Center. We shopped a bit for tomorrow’s provisions, went to the bakery and filled up on some much needed dessert. Then walked across the street for dinner. George had pork and I had lamb. Poor little lamb gave his leg for me. It sure was delicious. No dessert, nor espresso. We were done for the night.

My Funny Guy

As we left, luckily we had our umbrellas because it was coming down. We hightailed back to our lovely home away from home, and called it a night.

Grapevines Leasing to Town

I haven’t mentioned this but we are closing in on Santiago. We had been planning all along to be there by November 1st and if all goes well, our plan will materialize. Tomorrow will be an easier day but come Wednesday, it’ll be a push. The way I look at it, we should work hard on our final day. George may not like that plan but he’s definitely able to do it.

Another Beautiful Day in Paradise!

As I reflect on this day, I can’t help to think of my dear friend Pam. She would be celebrating her 71st birthday today. Last year, she went home to Jesus and is truly missed by many. Especially me. I’m so grateful that she knew Jesus and is with Him today. Happy Birthday Pam. I miss you dearly.

Beautiful Friend Pam Kelly

Day 25: October 29, 23’ Rendodela-Ponteverde 20.2 Km; Total: 268.8 Mi

We landed an extra hour of sleep without doing anything special! I love when the clocks fall back. Earlier sunrises with more daylight to walk. That only works if we get up earlier.

Rainbow Over The Camino

But the best part about this morning was blue skies. It was cold and brisk, but there was no rain, only a rainbow! I was praising the Lord.

Leaving Rendonela

George and I walked out of town and we met many new Pilgrims on the way. It was a gorgeous route this morning. We were in rural towns, with lots of gardens and terraces. Something we keep noticing in Galicia Spain are these raised concrete silos. Some are quite ornate, decorated with crosses and adorned with engravings.

Crossing Over Rio Verdugo

We talked with Noah, a fellow Pilgrim from Spain. He gave us the story behind these. They are a specific type of granary in Galicia called Horreo’s. It is constructed for agricultural use intended to dry, cure and store corn and other cereals before shelling and grinding them. It is typically constructed of granite, oblong and narrow in shape, with permeable storage chamber. It allows the passage of air, and is separated from the ground to prevent the entry of moisture and animals. It appears that most families and farmers have one. They are much to be admired and appreciated.

Horreo – Galicia Granary

After walking for a couple of hours, we found a cafe. Thank goodness because instant 3-1 Coffee isn’t really coffee! We walked inside and they were serving honest to goodness breakfast. Or at least that’s what we thought. On the menu there were Omlettes, with Jamon, Queso, Tortilla, and an array of goodies. I ordered Jamon for George and I, the Tortilla. We both received sandwiches, one with Jamon and the other, potatoes. We ate it up and then promptly left to get back on the trail.

Our Cafe Along The Way

Once outside, I went across the street to take a photo and George carried on, up the path. As I crossed back, the gal from the Restaurant was standing outside. She was speaking in Spanish which I wasn’t understanding, but just smiled at her. She kept talking when I realized, we never paid our bill. My bad! Oh my gosh, now I understand why she’s so upset. I apologized emphatically. I am so sorry. That’s the last thing I do is dine and dash! I paid our bill and gave her a hefty tip. How embarrassing.

Shell Art Along Our Path

I can guarantee you, that won’t happen again. I beat feet to catch up with George. He was a bit ahead of me, but we had some climbing to do. I caught up within a few minutes and all was good. Lucas, is Polish but lives in Germany caught up too. He walked with us for a bit. Lucas started his Camino in Porto. It amazes me the people we are meeting from all over the world.

George Walking With the Pilgrim

We headed into Arcade, and passed an Albergue. There must’ve been ten Pilgrims sitting around. Not a big deal but the fact that I had never seen them before. Being we are 100 kilometers from Santiago, there’s tons of people that are beginning their pilgrimage today. It’s so exciting that we’ll be walking with so many new people.

Many New Pilgrims

One of the issues that I’m dealing with is no clean clothes due to the off and on rain. Usually we would wash in the sink, then hang outside, but it’s too wet and cold to dry anything. But then, we see this Laundry and Fountain in the Town Square. It is a typical example of Galician popular architecture. It is formed by combination of a laundry (a rectangular roofed structure where clothes are washed), a fountain (a construction with a spout for the water to exit) and a pool (a reservoir where water is stored for irrigation). If only I knew, I could’ve done my laundry here.

Laundry & Fountain In One

The history behind these Water Features: The traditional Galician society lived before running water in houses, and the invention of washing machines. You can see the good use of water and it’s distribution between water to drink, to wash and to irrigate the land. It was also a meeting place for woman. This was a place and time where women were responsible for the laundry. Being outside of the home, they could speak freely without the presence of men. Wow, we’ve come a long ways!

Granite Slabs Stacked Along the Trail

Today we had two big hills to get up and over. With one down, we started up and over Chachiero. Being today was Sunday, hunting season was in full swing. Dogs were barking and then we saw them. There were three bloodhounds running up the hill, on the hunt for wild pigs. There were signs cautioning pilgrims but we never saw any wild pigs or boars. I’m sure them pigs know it’s hunting season and are hiding out.

George Negotiating the Trail of Rocks

With a few miles left and our hills climbed, we stopped at a Cafe-Bar. I had packed out sandwiches so we ordered espresso and French Fries. Then the rain started. Thank goodness we were sitting inside. God’s perfect timing. Somehow we had escaped the crazy downpour. Once it stopped, we braved the outdoors again.

Final Miles with Smiles

I hobbled into Ponteverde. Not sure what happened but all of a sudden my knee was not cooperating. George gave me his walking sticks and for the following two miles, I was moving slow, slower than slow. It wasn’t like I twisted my knee or banged it on some unsuspecting rock. I haven’t fallen so what just happened is quite perplexing. Whatever it was, as quickly as it came, it left. Thank you Lord!

Floating Umbrellas

After stopping for a very expensive bowl of soup, we packed up and walked our final steps to Ponteverde. This city of Ponteverde is an important stopover on the Portuguese Way. As we found our way, we saw The Church of the Pilgrim Virgin. It is circular in shape and has a floor plan in the shape of a scallop shell. Also the medieval Burgo Bridge has scallop shells sculpted in its’ arches. The scallop shell is quite prominent throughout this city.

The Church of the Pilgrim Virgin

Once we found our room for the night, we hunkered down and never left. My knee is better, George’s feet are healing and sometimes you just need to take a night off. Good thing because we just had a major downpour that flooded the street below us. Thank goodness, we had the sense, and exhaustion, to know when to stay indoors. And tonight is that kind of night.

Colorful View from Our Room

Day 24: October 28, 23’ City of Vigo – Rendodela 16.8 Km; Total: 256.3 Mi

George woke me up this morning. I was sleeping so soundly. That doesn’t happen often so when it does, I’m grateful that I had such deep slumber.

Good Morning Vigo

It was after 7am. Good thing we turn our clocks back tonight. At least the sun will come up earlier. We seem to be getting into town at a reasonable time, between 3-4pm. So if we get up and out an hour earlier, wow we could be in town by 2-3pm. We’ll see how it all pans out.

The Hills Begin

The weather has been cooperating for the most part. A few early morning sprinkles, then nothing till the end of the day. Yeah for us and all the Pilgrims out there.

Halloween Monks in Vigo

We had a climb out of the City of Vigo today. At first we were in the city so all we could see where the tall buildings and some beautifully painted murals. I sent one to my friend Judi asking her how in the heck they painted such a mural? She explained that they use lifts and window watching scaffolding and paint away. These murals are on buildings that are 15-20 stories tall. That’s a lot of paint!

Incredible Murals in Vigo

Once we made it out of the city and up on the hillside, the scenery was outstanding. Both George and I weren’t making much headway because we were stopping and gawking at the views. I stopped and talked with a local. She wanted to know where we started, how many days we’ve been on the trail and when we will get to Santiago? All good questions. I did my best to answer her in Spanish. She nodded and bid us farewell.

Looking Over the Port of Vigo

What I didn’t expect was a Pikgrim Stamp from the cutest 8 year old named Nadia. She had a fruit stand set up in her garage and lured in Pilgrims with the coveted stamp for their Passport. I was caught, hook, line and sinker. She stamped and dated our books and then we bit. How much for the mandarins and a banana? $5 later we had our Passports stamped and were eating the most expensive fruit I’ve bought on the trail. I’m sure it’s going to a good cause and it made her smile.

Nadia the Entrepreneur

About mid-day, we came across the biggest waterfall I’ve seen on the Camino. With all the rains of the past week, it was flowing and spilling over. George and I stopped, unloaded our packs and I started making us lunch.

No Name Waterfall

Our Swiss friend Richard showed up with a couple from Canada, Rosemary and NedJoe. Richard bought a new pair of high top water resistant leather boots. The European’s like their leather boots. They just can’t imagine wearing TrailRunners on the Camino. To each their own. What works for one, might not work for another but he was thrilled with his new shoes. And honestly, that’s all that matters.

Rosemary, NedJoe & Richard

The three continued on as George and I stayed and had our lunch. It was good as we had added a few tasty morsels we acquired from breakfast this morning. It was scrumptious and gave us the motivation we needed to finish off our daily walkabout.

Belly’s Full & Heading Out

We had followed a plateau for many miles which abruptly halted and started a steep decline. George’s knees were screaming as were mine. It was extremely steep for the Coastal Route. I was a bit surprised. By the time we arrived in Rendodela, all I could think about was Beer and Coffee. We found a local Sports Bar that was filled with people watching soccer. Perfect. We hung out for an hour, ran into Richard and another Pilgrim. There’s only one way to get to town, so you always run into people, time and time again.

Hello Rendodela

We finished and walked the last half a mile to our destination. Our studio apartment was near the San Simon Cove, just a few blocks off the Camino. There’s a couple of nice restaurants nearby so I walked into the Traditional Tapas Restaurant. I asked the waiter when they open for dinner? 8pm. I’d like to have dinner tonight. Do you have a reservation? No but I can make one? Sure, what time? 8pm please for two. And that’s how we roll in Spain.

Fall of Here & Cooler Days

What I’ve learned is that Spaniards are a bit more literal than the Portuguese. The Portuguese love to stop and chat. They are welcoming and it’s hard to leave. The Spaniards seem to be a bit more reserved. Once you get them to open up, they are quite generous. Take for instance our room last night. There was no chance that I paid for the room we received. But George and I show up, we talked for awhile with the gal behind the desk, tell her about our day and how happy we are to be at her Hotel. Laura then proceeds to give us a huge upgrade. That’s the generosity we have experienced, over and over again. You just can’t help falling in love with these people. Oh the sweet life we are experiencing.

Local Hangout “Chablis” in Rendonelo

George crashed out this afternoon. We showed up to our apartment, he took a shower, sat on the couch and he’s was out like a light. I think about our children we’ve had, and how we wear them out so they fall asleep. George is no different. He’s just a big kid, playing so hard and by the end of the day, he’s exhausted! And that’s a good thing. But I will wake him up for dinner.

George Kissing the Big Painted Fish

After the brief rainstorm, we walked down for dinner. It was traditional Spanish Cuisine. George had steak with french fries and I had Hake Fish with french fries and a huge salad we share. Good protein and great company. The place started filling up by 8:30pm and George and I walked back after the rain fizzled out. Just another day on the Camino.

Cool Bridges Here

Day 23: October 27, 23’ Baiona to Vigo The City 27.7 Km; Total: 245.9 Mi

Our Loft was such a sweet find. After our stay-at-home dinner, we had a little Tawny Port and easily went to sleep. The morning came quickly, and we made some home brew. With full fat creamer and sweet butter, it was better than ever. This is Blue’s kind of Coffee!

Low Tide This Morning. Outside Our Loft

The sun was shining and the skies were perfect for a morning stroll, or an entire day of walking. Anyway you slice it, the sunlight was a welcome addition to our Camino. In fact, we didn’t get any rain to speak of today. What a blessing that was!

Whale Art

We followed the coast for miles. The Coastal Way is a non official alternative. It starts in Ramallosa on the promenade and continues along the sandy areas of Praia América and Panxón towards Patos beach with Monteferro on the left. After passing Patos, we leave the coast and climb to Saians where this route meets the oficial one. And that pretty much sums up the day.

Boardwalk to Ramallousa

There were long sandy beaches, people out walking, and a wind surfer which I watched for close to an hour as we traversed the coastline. He looked like he was having a blast, flying through the air, being drug across the water and popping in and out of the water. I’d love to give that a try!

Wind Surfer on Praia America

We found a great cafe to partake in our morning ritual of espresso and croissant. I’ve become a fan of fresh squeezed orange juice but they only had Peach Juice. I’ll give that a try. It was great. I typically have a small 16 ounce plastic water bottle I carry in my skirt pocket and mix that with 1/2 juice, 1/2 water for my first drink of the day. Now I’m a fan of Peach Juice too.

Let’s Ho Surfing

We headed up the hill into a superb. There was a few beaches that hailed Surf Lessons here. This was the best area hands down that we’ve seen for surfing. The beaches were clear of jagged rocks, big plus for surfers, and the waves were rolling in sets of 2-3 waves at a time. Another plus.

Paxon – Surfing Spain

As we rounded a corner, there must’ve been 15-20 people on the sidewalk above the coast. And 6-8 people in wheelchairs with some using braces like crutches. They were giving them lessons and planned to take each one out on boards. How cool was this! It always amazes me what people are willing to do to teach others to overcome. It made me smile as I passed them. What a great day they are going to have!

Soon-to Be Surfers Behind George

There were a few places that we walked today where the trail made us walk on the beach. It was a good thing that the tide was so low, and possibly a minus tide because you could definitely see that when the tide is up, it could’ve been a wet walk! There was one place where we were pretty close to the water just trying to make it to the other end of the beach. Nothing but excitement on the Camino.

George Walking on Sea Water

We headed back up some 500’ above Sea Level to find the road. The Camino has a way of covering all aspects of the area that you are walking through. Before we knew it, we were back on a major roadway looking for a place to eat. I found us a Gas Station and bought ham, cheese, bread and cookies. Good balanced diet and then we seated ourselves on a strip of grass and ate our makeshift lunch. It wasn’t our best meal to date. Being today was a heavy milage day, it got us nourished and back on the trail fairly quickly.

Being Chased by The Great White

As we headed back down the highway, I heard Bon Camino. There were four bicyclists that were carrying other passengers on the front of their bikes. They had these special equipped bicycles that could propel the front passenger without any help. They appeared to be unable to ride themselves but with the help of a friend or parent, they were doing their own version of the Camino. What an inspiration! Bon Camino and hope to see you in Santiago.

Mark & John Heading Down the Camino

Such a great day we had. As the afternoon wore on, I looked to see how much further we had. Six miles to go to our Hotel in Vigo. Rather than staying along the coastline, I found a sneaky shortcut that led us on the trail along the river’s edge. Ends up that back in the day, it was the original route so it wasn’t too far off from where Pilgrims have walked. We made good time and around 3pm we arrived in Vigo.

Amazing Wall Art along River Walk

Vigo is a huge industrial city. It is also one of the biggest Galician City in Spain. Vigo, with one of the best harbours in Europe, is a port of call for transatlantic shipping and is also Spain’s most important fishing port, known for freezing and canning. Shipbuilding, metallurgical, electrical, automotive, and chemical industries are associated with the harbour. Needless to say, it is a huge export of sardines and many kinds of fish especially shark and hake.

Looking Over the Port of Vigo

Once we climbed our last hill of the day, we saw something I’ve never seen before, outside an airport. It was a People Mover Conveyor Belt. Bummer, we were going downhill as it only transported uphill walkers. I almost felt like turning around just so I could use it but we’d already had more than enough miles for the day.

People Mover for 1-2 Kilometers

A couple of gals that we have been tagging along with, the Canadians Barbara and Daffoni, recommended the Hotel Zenit to us. I love tips on places to stay and restaurants to eat at, so I bit. Oh my gosh, once again the Baraga’s are living large! If anyone ever decides to come to Vigo, you must stay at the Zemit Hotel and stay in Room 901. It is spectacular. The view from our balcony is something from the Desperate Housewives of Spain.

Hotel Vigo-We Landed on 9th Floor

We checked out the sights of Vigo. The area we are staying in is what I would call The Rodeo Drive of Galicia. All the high end shops, clothing, purses, perfumes, children’s toys, furnishings, if you need it, they have it! We found a Cafe and partook in our afternoon ritual of Beer first, then Espresso. I’m having to change my order up to Beer then Herbal Tea. Any Espresso or caffeinated beverage after 2-3pm, I’m up past midnight!

Walking the City of Vigo – Yes a Sprinkle of Rain Returned but Just a Sprinkle 😊

We walked around for a couple of hours because we haven’t walked enough already. That just shocks me that George is onboard with all this walking. By the days end, we have walked around 17 miles, and some 2000’ elevation. Way to go George!

Beautiful Architecture

We headed back to our Hotel and ran into Daffoni. Her and Barb had just arrived. They took a wrong turn and ended up on a side excursion that took them way off course. We all met for dinner and talked about our Camino’s. They planned everything ahead of time, locations, hotels and transports for their backpacks.

Procuring Prosciutto

I really wish they wouldn’t had said that because I’m sure George wheels are turning. He’s wondering why on God’s green earth are we carrying our packs? Well, because we can. That’s why. And we will. Ends up George is appreciating his backpack more and more these days. He says it’s actually helping his back pain and believes that his posture has improved. Hmm, then that’s a good thing and our backpacks will stay on us and not in some random strangers car, bring lugged from place to place. That is just not a good life for something as near and dear as our big ole’ backpacks.

See the Smiles on Our Face George Loves His Backpack
What a Wonderfully Orchestrated Day

Day 22: October 26, 23’ Villadesuso – Baiona 18.1 Km; Total: 228.9 Mi

It’s raining. And it’s dark. Goodness gracious, we have concerns here in Spain. But the good news is we only have eleven miles to walk today. And hardly any elevation. We had breakfast with our Swiss friend Richard. He decided to take a taxi, to get some new Gortex Shoes before heading back out in the rain. Not a bad plan. I’m using plastic bags to keep my feet relatively dry.

Outside the Breakfast Window with Reflection from Light Sconces

We ate breakfast and packed our lunch. A roll with meat and cheese, a pear and a little biscuit-like cookie. That’ll hold us over. George found some olives in a bag at the Super Mercado so we are covered. Once our backpacks were loaded, we headed outside.

Rain-Check & Heading Out

Yep, it’s still raining. But not a crazy downpour and pleasant enough to use our umbrellas. I must say that my umbrella is the most used piece of equipment. I would never leave home without it. I’ve used it to block the sun when it was 90 degrees and it’s the next best invention since airplanes. Or sliced bread. Or down pillows. You get the gist! I love my umbrella.

My Most Favorite Gossamer Umbrella

George and I decided to stay on the road today. With all the water flowing from the mountains, it’s just darn right silly to try anything else but the road. It’s paved, bright yellow so easy to follow and it’s flat. We can see the ocean, and definitely hear it. The surf is crashing and pounding on the rocks below us. At times it seems to want to splash up by where we are walking, but that’s another 30 feet. If the waves make it up here, we have bigger problems!

George Leading the Charge

We saw quite a few other crazy Pilgrims walking the Camino in the rain today. I think once you resign yourself to this journey, no amount of rain or snow or ice or heat is going to stop you. Even George is moving down the road without much thought of the weather any longer.

Our Pilgrim Friends from Barcelona

There was an obvious route that would take us up and over the mountain. We considered it because it would save us miles. As soon as we crossed the road and went off the road and onto the trail, it was a No-Go. The water was flowing down the trail like days back on the Appalachian Trail. George definitely was not trail worthy for this off-shoot and honestly, I was happy to turn around and do the extra bonus miles. This kept us out of the mud, muck and rock. We headed back to the road and followed the coastline for the remainder of the day. From the looks of it, everyone else did the same except for the Canadians. They ventured up and over the mountain and made it down alive.

Following the Coastline – Galicia Spain

Lighthouses. I have an issue with the way they place them here on the Atlantic. On the West Coast, lighthouses are strategically placed to guide boats and ships into safe harbors. At least that’s what I recall. Here in Spain, and Portugal, lighthouses are up on the hillsides and mountainsides, near the coastline. If I was depending on sailing into a harbor, I’d end up in a hundred pieces, sinking in the Atlantic. This Lighthouse was some 500’ above the ocean breakers, and miles from any safe harbor. I just don’t get it? Maybe someone can give me some insight on why they place lighthouses where they do, because I’m thoroughly confused.

Lighthouse on a Rock High Above the Atlantic Ocean

After a few hours of rain and mist, we came around a corner and saw Baiona. This city has a population of 14,000 however with tourism in the summer, the city swells to over 45,000 daily. Also the Portuguese Coastal Way goes directly through Baiona and over 30,000 pilgrims walk this way yearly.

The Inscription Reads: The Portuguese Caastal Way lo Santiago goes through this Village
being officially recognized on the 16th of August 2016. Have a nice Way!

The news of the New World – 1 March 1493

The most remarkable date in the history of Baiona is the 1st of March, 1493: that day the Caravel Pinta arrived in the port commanded by Martín Alonso Pinzón and navigated by Diego Sarmiento –a local sailor. Baiona became the first European place to know about the discovery of the New World – America. The Pinta was the fastest ship of Columbus’s fleet and was sent back to Spain to bring the news. A replica of the Pinta is docked at the municipal pier in Baiona and is now part of the local museum.

The Pinto – What Brave Souls

I love this place. First of all, the sky cleared up and the sun came out. That’s a super great start. It is over-the-top gorgeous with a protective coastline and islands that surround it. It has a bay that reminds me of Monterey, as it forms almost a u-shape shoreline, with colorful stucco homes dotting the beaches.

The Peaceful Bay of Baiona

I found a great little bar and bistro. We stopped for lunch and had a burger, fries and a beer for $9 Euros. More to love about Baiona. I may never leave this place!

Lunch in Baiona

Around 4pm, we finally found our home for the night. This was a find on AirB&B. I guess everyone else loves this place so there was nothing suitable for the Baraga’s on Booking.com. But we have a Loft Apartment that is close to town and next to the river. It’s close enough to the trail so another good find.

White Loft Apartment Behind Mermaid

We unloaded our packs, George took a shower and I relaxed for a bit. Then we hit the town. George was on the hunt for some new bandaid that our friend Sheila turned him onto. He looked in the Market but evidently they don’t have these special bandaids. You can only find them at the Farmacia. I tell you, these pharmacy’s around here have a monopoly on certain items. Sure enough, there was a rack of Compeed Bandages. I had no idea but they are the Cats Meow for blisters and anything that needs a little TLC. George bought an assortment that should last him the rest of our stay on the Camino.

Afternoon in Baiona

We stopped at a local bar, surprise-surprise and had a Beer. Then hit the SuperMercado and proceeded to have our first meal of the trip at home. Squash Soup, Pasta Salad with Arugula and toasted Sweet Buttered Bread. Nothing too extravaganza, but all that we craved. There is something quite nice about eating in our own little abode.

Simple Place

With the weather systems that have come and gone, we have not had a day that the sun didn’t come out for a moment or two. Whether we have rainy mornings with sunshine in the afternoon or vice-versa, it’s been easy to tolerate when you get a chance of clear or even partly clear skies. And it sure makes for pretty sunsets. So thank you Lord, for blessing us with only 50% chance of rain because we all know that also means 50% chance of sunshine!

90% Chance of Rain but 10% Sunshine

Day 21: October 25, 23’ A Guarda – Villadesuso 17.3 Km; Total: 217.8 Mi

Sometimes you just need to know when to lay low. After yesterdays Foresthill March in the rain, I suggested that George should take a Zero. His feet were bothering him and he started walking oddly. What do you think about relaxing for the day, taking a taxi to our next destination and letting me slackpack? After much deliberation, George agreed that this was a solid plan.

Good Morning Villadesusa

We headed downstairs for breakfast. These Hotels serve a darn good and hearty breakfast. There’s never a lack of meats, cheeses, pastries, yogurts with toppings, coffee, juice and more. Every place is a bit different but I have never walked away unsatisfied.

Breakfast Courtyard

I made my way back to the room, packed up my daypack and left my big ole’ backpack downstairs. George will transport it to the next hotel and I can be free to walk without a burden on my back. The weather was a bit funky but no rain, as of yet. I headed out and followed the coastline.

Interesting Blocks they Painted & Useful for Water Break on High Tides

While I was walking, George was interviewing the hotel staff. There were two stone cutouts that he was looking at. The clerk explained to him that when the Convent was here in the beginning of time, 16th Century, these two turnstiles were used as Baby Drop-Offs. Say what? Parents would anonymously place their unwanted infant or toddler in this Lazy-Susan type of device, and would turn it. The Monks would then raise the infant or child as their own. It must’ve worked as this was done every so often. When you think about it, to a point this still happens today. There are Baby Drop-Offs at Fire Stations and Hospitals, saving lives. Hard to believe, but true.

Baby Drop-Off at Convent

As I walked along the shore, I saw many locals walking their four-legged companions. Zoey would’ve loved this kind of walking minus the rain. There was tons of murals and various art along the way. So colorful and quite tastefully done.

Loved the Sunshine Art

I made my way to the end of the point, and saw a stone statue. It appeared to be Half Pilgrim, Half Fisherman of the Sea. He was sitting, waiting and watching Pilgrims pass by. What a masterpiece he is.

My New Hiking Partner

The trail shot onto the road, and upward towards the highway. It was the first real climb I’ve had in a few days. There was another gal walking the Camino and I passed her, feeling a bit guilty. Without my backpack, I could head up the steep hill without gasping. We talked briefly and I continued onward.

Trail Before the Climb

Once I hit the highway, the rain came back. I had about an hour of reprieve so I was happy with that. It wasn’t the crazy downpour of yesterday, just a constant drip that made me wet down to my underwear. So I guess it’s more than a drip!

Follow the Yellow Brick Road

The Camino meandered back to a trail and took me through some farmlands and cattle fields. These were the first cows I had seen for over a week or two. But these were longhorns, real cattle, meant for eating. They were as wet as me but the difference is they didn’t care. I, on the other hand was looking for a place to get out of the weather.

Long-Horned Beef

I made my way through some very small villages, Area Grande and Portocelos, which had no services to speak of. I landed in the village of Oia and found a tiny Cafe. Perfect! I went in, soaked and dripping, but no one seemed to care. I ordered a double shot espresso and proceeded to linger for a bit. This is one of the best parts of walking the Camino. It never ceases to amaze me the Cafe’s that I can find along the way.

Village of Portocelos

As I was finishing up my Espresso, a Swiss Pilgrim named Richard walks in. He’s as wet as I am. We strike up a conversation and I find out that he started in Lisbon, the same day George and I did. This was the first time I’ve met him. He’s not feeling 100% and was looking for a Hotel for the night. George had just sent me a picture of the Bathtub in our room. Richard was thrilled and was hoping for a room with a bathtub too. He called and sure enough, scored a room with a tub and we were on our way.

Leaving the Town of Oia

The rain was still coming down pretty good. Lucky for us, we had less than three miles to go. Richard wears leather boots while I wear trail runners. As we were walking the last miles together, I was submerging my feet in the puddles as my feet were already soaked. He tried, without much luck, to sidestep the puddles. At least with my shoes, they’ll dry out relatively quickly where Richards boots will be wet for days. He says he gets old newspapers, crumbles them up and shoves it inside his boots. It works for soaking up some of the moisture, but I’ll stick to drying my shoes out with a blow dryer. That works pretty good too.

Following the Trail with Richard

We passed many more cows, horses and farmlands that lined the coastline. It would’ve been nice to see this on a sunny day but that wasn’t gonna happen. The walk went fast having someone to chat with. Richard and his wife walked the Camino a couple of years ago. They did the Norte Route which follows the northern shoreline of Spain. I believe it is one of the first routes of the Camino behind the Primitivo Route. He said it was quite difficult but had stunning views, yet much more primitive than the Portuguese Way.

Scalloped Shells Painted along Fence

Before I knew it, we had arrived at our Hotel for the evening. Hotel Glasgow is a nice place, smack dap in the middle of nowhere. There truly is not much out here. George was drinking coffee and had already lined up a dryer for me. They do not have a laundromat but they were willing to dry my clothes in their commercial dryer that they use for the linens. How nice is that.

Hotel Glasgow on a Sunny Day

I headed to the room, stripped off my soaking wet clothes and took a hot jacuzzi bath. Yep, that’s right. There is actually a jetted tub in our room. Some have wondered how I’ve found such nice accommodations? Even George has asked me how I was going to beat this?

Now That’s a Bathtub

There is an app called WisePilgrims. For a small fee of $4.99, you can download maps and all sorts of endless information regarding the circuit of trails. It has nearly all the routes of the Camino. Bookings.com must be in cahoots with WisePilgrims because each town, with accommodations, gives you the option to book a room. That’s when bookings.com opens up the wide array of rooms from Albergues, Hostels, Bed & Breakfasts and Hotels. Then you choose what accommodations you prefer.

I can say that all, but one, was as described on the site. Some are better than others but that is based mostly on price and location. I always read the reviews before selecting our home for the night. It’s been pretty simple, booking along the way. And I only book one night ahead. This gives George and I the ability to determine how far, or not as far, that we are willing to walk the following day. Easy Peasy!

Show Upcoming Towns in Kilometers

Our Hotel tonight has a restaurant. Now that we are in Spain, our clock moved forward by an hour. Not such a big deal except for the fact that I really have no intention on walking in the dark. When I woke up this morning at 7am, it was pitch black outside. So no walking until 8:30 or later. The other thing is Spaniards eat dinner later than Portuguese. Restaurants don’t even open for supper until 8am. So starting later is the way that the Baraga’s will roll. Honestly it won’t be a big issue being we seldom were on the trail much earlier than 9am anyhow.

It’s 7:45am in Spain. Still Dark & Raining Hard. Streets are Flooded.

One last thing. I did a little bit of surgery on George’s foot this evening. He had a large blister that needed to be drained so I cut off his foot. It’s okay now being he has another foot. No, I didn’t do that but I poked it with a needle and clear fluid came out of it. No wonder he was hobbling around. He’s as good as new and should be flying down the trail tomorrow.

After Surgery – Still has Both Feet

We plan to continue north on the Coastal Route and brave this rain. It doesn’t seem to want to let up anytime soon. I guess that’s part of this adventure and our Camino. As long as the Lord doesn’t have us building an Ark, we will be fine. Until tomorrow, may your days be filled with love and laughter, and a little bit of sunshine! Adios, from Spain.

Scalloped She’ll Painted on WC
Today is No Different

Day 20: October 24, 23’ Anacora – A Guarda 14.3 Km; Total: 207.1 Mi

Yesterday was too many miles. We tried but I think I beat up my partner in crime. He was licking his wounds this morning! So we have decided to stick with lower miles and not kill ourselves. Today was going to be a super wet day.

Outside Our Door

The best part was both of us woke up and agreed that we had the best night of sleep since we arrived! Maybe the milage wore us out or was it the fact, we actually somehow scored a King Size Bed. Most beds, if not all beds in Portugal are twin or full size. On a rare occasion we have had a queen Size Bed. But a King Size with two pillows each! That’s incredibly luxurious. No wonder it’s a Four Star Hotel. It earned every single one of those stars in my review.

What Sweet Dreams Are Made From

We had a grand breakfast. Also included in the price of the room. After breakfast, we tackled the elements. For the first few kilometers, we had use of our umbrellas but once we ventured out from the protection of the buildings, we were doomed. Both umbrellas turned inside out and mine broke a spoke! Dang it, I love that umbrella. Be dammed, I’m gonna fix it with duct tape or some other material.

Leaving Hotel Meira- Love that Expression of Pure Joy

Between the sideways rain, and howling wind, we were soaked to the bone! I’ve heard the expression “sheets of rain” and today I can definitely say that I know what that means. As I looked out to the horizon, I could see what looked like a curtain of rain falling to the ground. It was a deluge of water, the most amount of rainfall that we have experienced on The Camino!

I Shouldn’t Be Smiling-This Isn’t Fun

As we were walking through Moledo, a woman was coming out from a long driveway, her hands full with a big plastic bucket and a few lids. The wind ripped the lid off her pale, and luckily it landed in a puddle under her car. George to the rescue with his walking sticks. He walked across the road and managed to maneuver the lids close enough so he could retrieve them for her. She was so grateful, thanking him and praising his good deed. Then she offered us a ride. This is the part that truly shocked me. George said no. He was content with continuing our walk on a day like today, without bailing! Wow, he really is becoming the man I did not know I married! And so we continued, in the pouring rain.

Good Deed George ❤️

We arrived to a town with a Cafe. Thank goodness. There were two Pilgrims leaving as we were headed inside. We swapped places, our wet backpacks in place of theirs. Espresso and croissants were waiting.

Our Pilgrim Passport

This was such a needed reprieve. We warmed up, dried off briefly and George visited the Water Closet (WC) a couple of times. The one thing I can say for Portugal is they have a wide variety of symbols and icons for WC. George pointed that out today, as he is sure that he’s visited every WC this side of Lisbon.

WC with Cigarette Vending Machine

After our respite, we headed out to the cruel dark world again. It appeared that the weather was getting worse by the minute. The trees were howling and it was downright cold. George was limping a bit so no real speed was obtained today. We made it to Caminos where the Water Taxi would take us across to Spain. Rio Minho is the dividing line between Portugal and Spain. Much to our chagrin, the Water Taxi was out of commission. Now what? Being we were soaked to the core, a swim wouldn’t be out of the question. Luckily, there is another option. Jose has a motor boat and for 6 Euros, he’ll take you across to Spain.

Jose’ Water Taxi

There were three other gals that were ahead of us and we caught up with them. We all met at Jose’ Water Taxi, paid our way and headed to the dock. Jose walked in front, jumped in his boat that was filled with water, and started it up. He pulled the plugs and spun around the River a few times to bail the water out. Oh, this is going to be a fun ride.

All Ready to Plunge into the River

Once he circled back, we loaded in one at a time. Then he gave us life jackets, as he said because the Policia requires them. He layed a rubber jacket over George and I as the rain was coming down so hard, he must’ve thought it would keep us warm. Then he sped off. The boat ride was, maybe five minutes and bless his heart that he was even running the boat at all. It was a hail force wind and rain like you would see in Seattle. I have been in a lot of weather in my lifetime, but this was about as bad as it gets!

George & Jose Helping the Ladies

We arrived on a sandy and wet beach. Jose jumped out of the boat and proceeded to help us one at a time. I landed first, with my feet in the water. No big deal being my feet and shoes were already soaked. George got out, then helped Jose with the other three ladies out. The mother of the two girls must’ve been in her 70’s. She was one tough cookie braving these elements. All 4’6” of her was pure grit and determination. Pilgrims, they are a different breed.

George Followed by His Hiram of Gals

We made it to the Boardwalk and at this point the rain was fierce. All I could think about was moving, and moving fast. George was moving but not at the speed I was hoping for. I got ahead of him and found shelter under some Pine Trees. It looked like we might be getting a break in the storm. Thank God.

The Markings on the Trees

As we made it around the point, Punta dos Picos, I could see a slimmer of blue sky. The sun began to shine, the rain slowly stopped and I was one happy camper. We would survive to see another afternoon on the Camino. A bit over dramatic but it was touch and go for an hour or two.

Galicia Markings on Trees

As we made our way through the forest, there were odd symbols painted on the trees. Ends up these are Galicia markings symbolizing different religious traditions and rituals. They are quite beautiful and was our introduction to the way of the Spaniards. Much more to come on this front.

Turbulent Atlantic Ocean Producing Sea Foam

Once the sun came out and my body warmed up, I was much happier to walk at a slower pace. Our town for the night is A Guarda, a Spanish Seaside Village. As we rounded the corner, we could see the colorful landscape. It was much smaller than the town last night but was just as beautiful. No long Sandy beach but a rocky shoreline with a big rock jetty for boats to come to and fro.

A Guarda and My Happy Hiker

We headed into town and found our home for the night. A 16th Century Convent that has been converted into a stunning hotel. Another incredible place to relax and regroup after a crazy day outside. We were escorted to our room with ocean views. Once again, the Camino has blessed us with more than ever. No bath, but one kick-butt shower with dual heads and room for two.

Not Too Shabby

After we both got warmed up, it was time to find a laundry mat. Our clothes were wet and dirty, with no real options for hanging them to dry. We headed up the street and George, now able to speak the language, Spanish, he was able to get us where we needed to go. I loaded the washer and off we went to the Cafe-Bar across the street. It was Beet time and being we had a time change of one hour, it really was closer to 5pm. Not that it really makes any difference here. Let’s be real!

Hotel Momento Convento of San Bonito

After laundry, we dropped off our clothes and headed to dinner. Another meal of nothing but fish, five kinds of fish from monk fish to swordfish to ray and two others that I don’t remember. But boy of boy, it was good eating! We polished it off with salad and espresso. And then we waddled back to our abode.

View from Our Room

Well Lord, today was a tough day. For me, it was a head down, keep your hat on, kind of day. Even with George’s feet not 100%, he was the star of the day. He did what needed to be done, he was genuinely helpful and kind to perfect strangers and did it with a good attitude. And maybe even a smile too. That’s all you can ask for in a partner.

My Partner in Crime

There are a few unspoken rules of engagement when it comes to life. If I’m having a bad day, you can’t. Only one person can have a bad day at a time. So George, thank you for letting me have my not-so-great day.

Port Always Helps
What a Blessing George Is – Thank You Lord for Bringing me Such of Godly Man

Day 19: October 23, 23’ Amorosa – Anacora 26.6 Km; Total: 198.1 Mi

We did it. We woke up early and managed to get out the door before 8am, in the rain! I’m so proud of George. He really has come a long ways from being greener than green when it comes to backpacking, and now he’s charging out the door in a storm! Well, honestly neither one of us ran out the door, but we did what needed to be done. Rain or shine, we had some of our biggest miles ahead of us today.

Rainy Day Mondays

We did a lot of road walking. We were a bit off the trail when we came in last night. But we planned that. However, knowing we’d have rain most of morning, it was more about getting back to the Camino the quickest way possible.

Not My Happiest Place

As we headed out of the Projects, as George called it, which wasn’t too far from the truth, kids were lined up for the Bus. No, we are not taking the Bus but the thought crossed my mind. We walked up and over the knoll, turned north onto the Main Street. We followed it for a good 3-4 miles before reconnecting onto the Camino.

Signs of The Camino

George remarked that with the umbrella snd rain jacket, the rain wasn’t so bad. Who is this? My husband would never be caught dead outside in a rain storm. That’s what fireplaces are for, and warm houses. But here he was, with his umbrella, hat and rain jacket, in a downpour, not complaining. Well, only one complaint, wet shoes! I had the same complaint but I’ll never never ever wear Gortex on a trek. Unless I’m snowcamping or climbing a glacier.

Biggest Slug I’ve Seen

We made it to a Cafe around 9:30am and had our double espresso and pastry. It was nice to shed, and get out of the rain for a bit. By the time we finished, the sky began to clear. We walked across the bridge to Viano do Castelo and praised the glorious sunshine. Yeah, the rest of the day was downright warm and sunny!

View of Viano do Castelo

Pointe Eiffel and Viano do Castelo were quintessential European. They had the old architect, the colorful buildings, great cafes and people walking the streets. All the Store Owners were wiping down the tables and chairs, getting ready for the influx of people. Once the sun comes out, everyone sits outside and enjoys their espresso.

Streets Looking up to Castle

We made our way through the city streets. George stopped at the Pharmacy for Ibuprofen. I needed inserts for my trail runners. We were able to get both. Funny thing here in Portugal, you can’t buy Ibuprofen unless you shop at the pharmacy. They won’t sell it in the markets. From what we were told by Elizabeth, the government controls all over the counter meds. It’s nuts. A box of 20 tablets cost $7. But when you need an anti-inflammatory, you pay whatever price. George got his pills and my feet are happy with my new and improved footbeds.

Viano do Castelo

The beach was our next stop. It was so different with the sun glistening over the ocean blue. We finished the day walking along the coast. There were a few inland passages but for the most part, we followed the coastline for the remainder of today.

Boardwalk to The Breakers

This was a big day for George. We did close to 17 miles by the time it was done with a few breaks, a little beer and some pain meds. His knee is doing well but his feet are soft. I don’t think George has ever had a callous on his tender feet. Unlike me, my entire sole is one big callous, but my husbands foot is as soft as a newborn. This little walkabout is changing that. He is working on a few blisters which are now, turning to callouses. By the time we get to Santiago, his trail name will no longer be “Tenderfoot!” Or maybe he will just keep that.

My Man Tenderfoot

Our last push was close to a mile walking on the sand towards Vila Praia de Ancora. We had been eyeing this town since noon in the very far distance, but now we could make out the buildings. There was one river crossing that George noticed, Rio Ancora. Good thing he saw this because I was barreling through without giving it a thought. There was a foot bridge that we headed towards, and before long, we made it to town.

Extra Help for Right Path

Our nights lodging was another Four Star Hotel Meira. It was lovely. In town, close to all the provisions one needs and has a Bathtub! That’s worth another star in my book! Once settled in, I went straight for the tub. I so miss taking baths!

Long Beaches of Vila Praia do Ancora

The gal at the Front Desk recommended an Italian Restaurant right down the street. That sounded perfect as the only thing close to Italian that we’ve had was Pizza. We both ordered Pasta, a nice bottle of Red from Douro River, salad and finished it up with Tiramisu and Cappuccino.

Another Incredible Meal

Ends up that this hotel also has a scale. Any guesses on how much weight George has lost? I have lost a whopping five pounds, or close to that, but my husband has somehow managed to drop twenty pounds! I can’t believe it! Way to go George! And with all that, to think this wasn’t a diet plan. That shows you what some walking can do for your waistline.

My Sunny Husband

Tomorrow will be a couple of milestones. First thing, George will be a member of the 200 Mile Club! That’s a big flipping deal. Second accomplishment is we will be making our way into Spain. We have walked from Lisbon in southern part of Portugal to the northern most part of Portugal. And that’s pretty darn exciting.

The Map of Portugal and The Camino

Needless to say, this could not have been done without our Heavenly Father giving us the strength and desire to get up and walk day after day. Without His constant presence and guidance, we would not be where we are today. And that’s not just here on the Camino. We are blessed with each day, and never more. We have no idea what tomorrow will bring so living for the moments that are right here, right now is truly all we need. I cannot imagine what this journey will provide but I do know that the joy we have had, the love we have felt, the friends we have met, will be what we will cherish and remember for a lifetime.

Thank You George for Sticking it Out