Day 87: August 11, 2023 Chairback Gap Lean-2 to White Brook Trail Elevation+3925’/-3068’ 14.5 Miles/1024.6/2124.5

It rained really hard last night but I slept in the shelter. No wet tent to pack up but I had a lot of wet clothes. I’m down to my last pair of socks and underwear. My skirt is soaked, my rain jacket has moss growing on it and I have web feet. Not really but I should by now.

What You Do When It Rains – Shelter in Place

Juice was up and rearing to go. He slept in his tent while Wedding Walker and I were slumming in the Shelter with the Men from India. At 6:15am Juice announced that he was hitting the trail. He’ll wait for us slackers at the River Crossing. I left five minutes after Juice while Wedding Walker was still eating breakfast. But I had a more important meeting than a river crossing, I had a meetup with Blue.

The Rockslide

The first mile was the typical bog with lots of mud and muck, especially after our rain from yesterday. Maines never gonna dry out. Once I climbed up to Chairback, I came over the windy knoll and entered a rock slide. At this point, I should be ready for this but I hadn’t read ahead and was taken by surprise. It was a couple of football fields worth of boulders with very large slabs of granite. It took me close to a half hour and then I was back to mud, muck and roots.

Mud and Roots – Oh Joy

I should’ve calculated the slowdown with the boulders but I had told Blue I’d be there by 9am. By 9am I was still over a mile or so away. After passing through the road construction and the rerouted trail, I arrived. Juice had been there for 5-10 minutes so he making virtually the same pace as me. So I’m not such an Old Lady after all. Blue had fruit, sparkling water and my provisions.

My Personal Angel & Resupply

t this point, I was pretty darn cold with wet shorts on. Blue said we could head to the car and she could make me hot tea and I could warm up a bit. Grand plan. I talked with Juice and being Wedding Walker still hasn’t arrived, he’d stay out till 11am.

Overlook with Mount Katahdin Shrouded in Clouds

When I returned from my warmup, Wedding Walker still hadn’t arrived. Hmm, that’s odd. He’s a bit slower but should’ve been here by now. The West Branch Ford of the Pleasant River is a hundred feet wide, and usually shin deep. Today due to all the rain and water releases, it was thigh high and running quite swiftly. I watched a few hikers ford it and you can tell the current was swift and moving. I waited a bit longer for Wedding Walker but finally needed to head north. I bid my farewells to Juice and hope to see them again.

Hikers Making the Ford

The rest of the day I hiked solo. Irish followed me for a bit but finally passed me and took off. We usually bump into each other so I’m sure I’ll see him again before Katahdin. There were a few Nobo’s that I talked with and towards the afternoon, I saw another 5-6 Sobo’s. They were all headed for the Shelter.

Less than 100 Miles to Go

I had several water crossings, lots of ups and downs but nothing too steep. The trail was a mixture of ferns and firs with tons of mushrooms. I saw two snakes today and a ton of red squirrels who chirp a lot. The birds would squawk whenever I walked by. And more Moose Poop, but no moose sighting. The day was long and I didn’t get to camp till after 6pm. But on a high note, it did not rain! That’s a hallelujah.

Very Symmetrical Shroom

I’m looking forward to seeing Blue again tomorrow. She’s planning to meet me at the road crossing. It sure is nice having a support system that cares for you, drys out my clothes and gives me real food to eat. Around 7pm I had company. Three Nobo Hikers are stealth camping with me. They are young kids in their early 20’s and doing 20-22 mile days. Oh joy, how I would love to do those kind of miles again. Or maybe not. All they are doing is complaining about all their aches and pains. I’ll just stick with my 14-15 mile days.

Day 86: August 10, 2023 Long Pond Stream to Chairback Gap Lean-2 Elevation+3568’/-3602’ 11.1 Miles/1011.0/2109.9

Ends up that Wedding Walker, Chong and Seeker all made wrong turns at the reroute. Me and Juice were the only two at camp last night. I turned on my Inreach this morning and received a message from Wedding Walker. He made it to Wilson Camp some five miles south of us, and left early to catch-up. I left camp first and Juice was about a half an hour behind me.

Morning Vista from Barren Ledges

I had to retrace some of the miles from yesterday due to the reroute. When we came up the side trail, we headed south for .2 miles. I headed north, through the muddy bog and started my first climb up Mount Barren. It was a good 1000’ climb in a little over a mile. So fairly steep. Once I reached Barren Slide, Juice caught up. The Slide Trail was closed due to a nesting falcon. We headed up another 100 plus feet and reached Barren Ledges and the 2100 mile marker! Less than 100 miles to Katahdin. Thank goodness.

Less than 100 Miles to Katahdin

Juice and I stayed and had breakfast and Reset joined us. I met Reset back near The Long Inn Trail in Vermont. Her and Shorts were the two Blue and I swam with in the Waterfall. I hasn’t seen her for over a month. Ends up she and quite a few other hikers had Covid back at Hanover and she was off-trail for a week. She caught up and is making quick miles. We caught up for a bit and off she went.

Bodfish Intervale, Boarstone Mountain, and Lake Onawa from Barren Ledges

Juice and I took off and headed down and back up to our next destination, the summit of Barren Mountain. The western end of the Barren-Chairback Range is home to a partially dismantled fire lookout tower (not safe for climbing). It’s too bad because the views are blocked by alpine tree growth. We took a few pictures, ate some more food and tried to get ahold of Wedding Walker. Juice and Wedding Walker have been hiking partners for over three years, doing sections of the AT together. This is their last section to complete the AT, the 100 Mile Wilderness and Mt. Katahdin. No answer, so he left a message and we carried on.

Fire Tower at Mount Barren

Todays hike was a lot of ups and downs over many peaks. Most of the day was good weather until after lunch. We started hearing thunder and then the sky turned grey and dark. We both put our pack covers on and it started raining. Darn it! I was hoping we could have two days without rain. It was coming down pretty good so we both stopped and grabbed our rain jackets. The trail became more of a muddy mess. To make matters worse, we then had a sketchy river crossing. Juice is much taller than me with long legs and he was able to jump across a Boulder and up onto a rock. My problem is, I don’t have as long as legs and if I miss, I’m going down into a 5’ waterfall. I tried to figure out another way, Juice was going to try to give me his hand as I jumped and I finally reluctantly walked into the River with shoes and socks on. At this point my feet were pretty well soaked from the rain, so it wasn’t a huge deal breaker. My biggest issue is I have another 4-5 days left and only one pair of dry socks! With the weather and rain, the chances of being able to dry out my other two pair of wet socks, are slim to none.

Stop Columbus Mountain

I had planned on meeting Blue today at Ironworks Road but at 4:30pm I wasn’t capable to go another five miles. The milage here is so different than a regular trail day. If I wasn’t having to deal with walk arounds, trying to deal with risky river crossings, putting on rain gear, climbing 3500’ up and 3690’ down in ten miles, I would be able to do the miles. But this terrain is a bit difficult, to say the least. I had to bail on Blue and plan to hike out early tomorrow morning and meet up.

Chairback Third Mountain

Juice and I arrived at Chairback Gap Lean-2 around 5:30pm. We were the only ones here but there is suppose to be more rain tonight. I’m sure others will arrive. And within 20-30 minutes, both Nobo and Sobo’s were showing up. I decided to stay in the shelter and hold a spot for Wedding Walker. Everyone made dinner and I tried to dry my wet gear out. I’m not sure if anything will dry but i can attempt to. Juice setup his tent, and I hunkered down in the shelter all by myself. Ends up that all the other hikers continued on or tented. Wedding Walker never showed up but two guys from the shelter last night arrived after 8pm. They will keep me company for the night. At 9pm, they were cooking dinner in the shelter. Oh my goodness, this is going to be a long night! Wedding Walker showed up at 9:00pm last night. That was his first and last night hike of his life! I’m glad he’s back and accounted for. All is good in my little shelter. Now I can sleep!

Juice Trying to Find Wedding Walker

I am so grateful to have someone to hike with. This 100 Mile Wilderness is “no joke” and it is a section thats nice to have a partner. I have commandeered Juice and he has been very helpful and thoughtful about keeping an eye out on the “Old Lady” as he calls me. I don’t care what he calls me, and being I’m younger than he is, I’ll take Old Lady and I call him the Geriatric Guy. I’m sure now that Wedding Walker is back in the picture, the boys will continue on. Being that Blue and I have a campsite in Baxter on Wednesday, I’m gonna need to mosey on. This community of people on trail are truly the kindest and most welcoming hikers I have met anywhere. To the Appalachian Trail. You have raised your hikers well!

Butterfly on My Trekking Poles

Day 85: August 9, 2023 Shaws Hostel to Long Pond Stream Lean-2 Elevation+3568’/-3602’ 17.1 Miles/999.9/2098.8

Had another wonderful scrumptious breakfast at Shaws. The boys were cooking and the hikers were ravenous. There were 48 mouths to feed. All tables were full with two extra picnic tables outside. If you are a hiker, there’s no other place you would want to be. It’s a must stop for all AT Hikers.

The Pancake Cairn at Shaws Hostel

Blue and I said our farewells for a couple of days. I was on the first van that went back to the trail. They had three shuttles as there were so many hikers headed back with the positive window of weather in the forecast. No rain for two days! One of the hikers made the suggestion that the oldest hikers should be on the first shuttle. We are slower and need more time to go the same miles that the 20-something’s do. I totally agree, so we stacked our packs by the van first. Brilliant idea.

Blues Favorite Shirt- I Love Not Hiking

As we headed out, Poet gave us an update on the treacherous river conditions. I guess Doom and Gloom was right about the water table and the high flowing rivers and falls. I will have three creek crossings that will be knee to thigh deep. Those are manageable but the Little and Big Wilson’s and the Waterfall are not passable. So what this means is a road walk that adds another 2 plus miles to my 15 mile day. I can handle that, I think.

100 Mike Disclaimer Sign with Remington

Within a minute of being on the trail, I had my first creek crossing. There were 8-10 of us taking off shoes and putting on our water shoes. A few guys went, then Remington. He crossed the log and once he stepped down or the slippery slate, down he went. He was wet from head to toe. Poor guy. He got himself up and went to the shoreline and started changing out of his wet clothes. Take caution, this is serious business. I made it across and the two guys I’m traveling with, Wedding Walker and Juice were good also.

Wedding Walker is 6’5”

The rest of the morning was much of the same. River crossings that were deep, walking through tons of mud from the last two days of storms and no way around the muck. We all were not in good moods. Except maybe Blue. She was on her way to Bangor where she will be picking up a rental car and touring the State of Maine. She’s the only one with brains around here!

Seeker & Chong

After three river crossings and countless hours of walking through mud, I asked the gang of guys, does anyone take breaks? They all agreed it was time so being the leader of the pack, I found a nice spot to stop for lunch. I pulled out my green mat, and I ate my spicy Thai tuna wrap with peanuts. It’s a new combination that I just conjured and tasted pretty darn good. The boys all had their different versions of grub and we were content.

Wedding Walker Leading

After lunch, I told the guys I needed to make a couple of phone calls and I’d catch up later. They all left. After I was done, I headed down the trail and I saw Juice walking towards me. What’s up? The guys were worried that I was by myself so they sent Juice, the fastest hiker to check on me. Wow! I just met these guys and they are committed to making sure I’m okay! That’s really thoughtful. Juice and I walked the rest of the day together. The re-route due to the impassable creeks and waterfalls were not marked. It was a bit of a hunt and seek for the right trail and roadway. Luckily I had downloaded the topo map on my app and Juice was pretty sure of the route, so between the two of us, we managed to navigate the walk around.

North Pond Creek Crossing

Along the way, Bonnie from Canada left some Trail Magic. She had a couple of bins with apples, candy, crackers and all sorts of good stuff. All she asked was for us to sign her book. I was thrilled to have a big juicy apple and so was Juice. As we left, I saw a house on the right with a lady sitting near the window. I waved and ends up it was Bonnie. We thanked her for the apples and thoughtfulness. Evidently she’s been coming down from Canada for years with her brother and nephew. The three of them own houses across from each other and love talking with the hikers. Back in the 70’s over 80% of the AT in Maine we’re on roads. In the past 50 years, the ATC has purchased or obtained permission from owners to move the trail off the roads and into the forest. Well done ATC.

Juice, Bonnie and I

By 7pm, we arrived in camp, late start with a later finish. But the other three guys that Juice hikes with were not here. That’s a dilemma being they have been hiking together for weeks. We couldn’t get a hold of anyone so hopefully tomorrow Juice will find his Band of Brothers. We pitched our tents and were done for the day.

Waterfall Diversion

When I left today, I had no idea what to expect. My Blue was AWOL and I had all these crazy river crossings that I didn’t want to do alone. Before I knew it, I was adopted by a group of men that were all in their 60-70’s. I think I’m the youngest in the group. It was like having Big Brothers who were missing a younger sister. We hiked all morning and when I stopped and didn’t return quick enough, they sent the youngest to come looking for me. It reminds me of Jesus, never leaving even one lost sheep. Somehow someway, the Lord has sent me these Shepards to watch over me. Whether it’s for a day or a week, I feel that I am someone who is protected. What a wonderful feeling that is!

Baron Peak – Tomorrow’s Hike

Day 84: August 8, 2023 Zero at Shaws Hostel Elevation+None’/-None 0.0 Miles/982.8/2083.7

Some days you just need to take a day off. I’m not sure how many of you follow the weather on the East Coast? There has been all sorts of warnings of rain up to many inches with certain flooding. Oh joy, and it has been raining all day. I am so glad that we are hunkered down in Monson at Shaws Hostel. They do everything they can to accommodate each and every hiker.

Weather Report is Improving

I woke up this morning to the smell of bacon cooking in the kitchen. You have no idea how that made my heart sing! With that came eggs over easy, homemade potatoes that they started prepping yesterday, and blueberry pancakes with real maple syrup. I don’t think New England knows or cares to know what imitation syrup is all about. There’s no such thing as Log Cabin or Aunt Jamima Syrup in these parts. Thank goodness. Just Pure Maple Syrup and Real Butter. How glorious and scrumptious is that!

Hambone and Poet with Emilia

After breakfast, we started tackling our list of things to do. Blue needed to find a Road Atlas so she could find all the backroads and hunt me down. I went to the ATC Office to be told of all the horrendous river crossings that were coming up. The Volunteer had some 15,000 miles of hiking different trails throughout United States and was the master of all things Doom and Gloom. If I listened to him, I’d hunker down till 2024! I’ll make sure that I have a buddy when I cross the rivers and Norman will be tightly secured.

Volunteer Doom & Gloom at ATC

Blue and I went to the Gas Station and I bought a new toothbrush, along with some cheese and chocolates for the trail. We sorted through our resupply boxes and between what I packed and Blue sent, I was ready for my seven days in the wilderness. It makes me giggle thinking the huge emphasis that is placed on heading out to the 100 Mile Wilderness. On the PCT, we’d be out for 15-20 days without giving it much thought. But then, you didn’t have the crazy wet and wild weather that Maine can dish out. I’m all packed up and the plan is that Blue will meet up with me every other day. This way I only carry a couple of days of food, rather than a weeks supply of provisions. It will certainly lighten my burden.

Downtown Monson, Maine

As for summiting Mt. Katahdin, as a thru-hiker no permit is needed as long as you are on a continuous footpath north. However Blue will be driving so I needed to figure out how to get her on the mountain with me. I called the AT Hostel in Millinocket, Maine, just outside of Baxter State Park. Cody, the owner informed me the only way to circumnavigate the dilemma of Blue driving into the park, would be to secure a campsite reservation. As he was talking with me, he got online and to his surprise there was one walk-in site available on Wednesday, August 16th. He told me to book it immediately as this is a fluke and it’ll be snatched up in moments. I hung up, got online, which is a feat in itself here at the Hostel with 30 other hikers on the Wi-Fi, and grabbed the one and only site available for the entire week. Thank you Lord. Now all that Blue needs to do is drive in on Wednesday, set up camp and we can hike Katahdin together on Thursday, August 17th. Once again, God provides. These campsites are much like booking for Yosemite. You get online, get ready to hit the reservation button six months in advance, and pray your fingers don’t slip off the keys. Once in a blue moon, you actually get a confirmation that you have obtained the most coveted spot, this side of the Mississippi. Blue and I have a site! So now we can celebrate!

Lakeshore House with Brew & Smiles

So here’s the skinny. When I take off, I most likely, will not have any service or Wi-Fi for a week. I will continue to blog but it will just stay put on my phone. I most likely won’t be able to post anything for quite sometime. Now this could all change if Blue picks me up and whisks me away to some glamping camping in a hotel or motel near the trail. That’d be very luxurious but not expected. But if she reads this, who knows? I might be staying at a Hyatt or more realistic, a Yurt! And it’s possible a Yurt could, in fact, have Wi-Fi. No promises on the Wi-Fi, but a shower would be really nice!

AT Signage in Monson, Maine

With all that being said, I am anticipating that the Lord will be strengthening me, and providing me his love and protection while I am finishing this stretch of the Appalachian. It is difficult to think that Norman and I will be going it alone, without our mighty Blue & Bob the Bear. Yet, I am confident that I am ready, willing and able to finish what i started close to three months ago. This is what I have been training and preparing for and now is the time to focus on what the Lord has intended all along. He knew that Blue was going to leave, and that I would need to solely depend on Him. I am so grateful for this opportunity to seek his help and lean on Jesus every step I take and every move I make. How exciting a time this will be.

Mushroom Camouflaged in Tree

Day 83: August 7, 2023 Tentsite by Logging Rd to Shaws in Monson Elevation+2028’/-2003 13.0 Miles/982.8/2083.7

One of those nights. I must have been thinking about too much. I tossed and turned with Pokémom, who was tented next to me. Every time she turned on her very crinkly air mattress, I turned. The difference is that my mattress is much quieter. The sun rose and so did I.

Very Busy Spider & Her Spun Web

Blue was a bit slow moving this morning. She had a long conversation with God. Good reason and being I was late yesterday. I’ll just be patient and relax for a bit. I love relaxing. Norman was pretty chill today. After the river crossing of yesterday, he was still trying to process his place on my pack. Norman will always be my number one! He has made it farther than any other and he has no plans of jumping ship. He’s in it for the long haul.

My #1 Partner in Crime-Norman

Blue and I headed northbound to our first river ford, only a half mile from camp. Before we even made it to Marble Brook, we had mud and water to tackle. I’m about done with all this muck! We approached Marble Brook and prepared for thigh high water crossing. There was an island in the middle of the river that everyone mentioned. Head towards the island and cross again to the north bank. The water was cold and wet. I was submerged above my knees and Blue rolled up her shorts. We made it to the island and again to the shoreline. Great wake-up refresher on our morning stroll.

Pokemom Fording Marble Brook

Blue started sharing with me her struggles and her conversation with the Lord. This has been a tough trail. With the weather, rain, mud and muck, little views or change in scenery, and being quite mundane, she is at the end of her rope. Unlike myself, Blue came out here to support me. And she has done more than her fair share of that! We have made it through a lot of trials and honestly, the worst of trail conditions. She has endured so much and Blue doesn’t have a vested interest any longer. I completely understand. My reasons for this trail are much different than hers. And just like anyone else out here, you need to know and understand your why! Without that, you will find many reasons to leave. We talked and shared and in the end, Blue is the only one who can decide to continue or leave.

Blue On Top of Mt. Washington – Burr

The trail had its PUDS today, pointless ups and downs. We took a couple of breaks and made it to the West Branch of the Piscataquis River. The river flows quickly and can be waist deep here, but was only knee to thigh deep. Another cold water crossing but not very swift and a fairly easy crossing. Once on the other side, we put our shoes back on and headed to Monson. It was an east four miles, or at least I thought it would be.

Crossing Piscataquis River

The trail was doable but seemed to take a bit longer than expected. This is what placed the final screw in Blues mind. She realized that she had hiked enough, had seen enough mud and muck, and really wasn’t in the mood to walk any more miles. If God could open the doors, to secure her a rental car, then she was ready to go from Blue Blazes to Yellow Blazes. Yellow Blazes are typically known as hikers that hitchhike from place to place. She would be more like a Golden Blazer, being she would be driving from trailhead to motel.

Odd-Looking Yellow Mushrooms

As we merged onto the road to Monson, we had many Maine-ah who welcomed us to their town. One guy, ET who hiked many miles on the AT pulled over and offered us a ride. Ends up that he was born and raised in Monson and his Mom, for retirement, bought Shaws Hostel. She ran it for ten years before she sold it to the new owners, Hippie Chick and Poet. ET’s Mom still lives across the street and loves the hiking community. What a great place to land.

With Every Walk With Nature, One Receives Far More Than He Seeks

Blue reserved us a private room at Shaws Hostel for two nights. Praise God because there’s a storm coming our way. We got acquainted with the place, I found some loaner clothes as everything that I owned smelled like…you know what! I jumped in the shower and Blue started making phone calls. Before I knew it, she reserved a SUV and plans to slackpack and support me through the 100 Mile Wilderness. Yeah for me! I have a personal Sherpa, at last.

Old Kelty Backpack Found on Trail

When I started planning for this adventure many moons ago, I knew why I was doing it. It started as a child and honestly, the good Lord placed this on my heart before I was conceived. He knew how He would use me, He knew how I would reach people in a different way and place, and He prepared me for a wilderness experience. So 60 plus years later, here I am. I have a path and a destiny, that was ordained many moons ago. I have no idea how it will play out but I don’t need all those details. I just need to trust and believe that He will go before me. So far, I’ve been covered by his mercies and grace. Thank you Jesus for always filling in the gaps when I couldn’t. Thank you for bringing me Blue when I so needed her, and thank you for preparing me for our next steps together. I love your ways and know that they were set in stone way before I was even born. You are in charge, my director and my composer. And I will follow you for the rest of my days. Amen.

Day 82: August 6, 2023 Moxie Pond Ford to Tentsite by Logging Rd Elevation+2028’/-2003 11.7 Miles/969.8/2070.7

I slept like a baby last night. The fact that I was totally exhausted I’m sure had much to do with this fact. I could barely stay awake to blog. But I, in fact, finished it, and then proofread it this morning. It was lacking quite a bit so I rewrote most of it, and it sat in my in-box. There is no cell tower, no Wi-Fi, no service so until that happens, all this writing stays in my phone. I’m thinking it’s gonna be like this till I reach Katahdin. It’s the way the Maine-ah’s want to keep it. Remote and no civilized upgrades.

Protected by Placer County Sheriff

Blue and I left camp at 7am. The first bit of business was fording the Moxie Pond River. I wore my Crocs and just walked in. Blue skipped across the rocks the best way she could. We both got across unscathed and redressed for hiking. Today’s hike was mellow after yesterdays Foresthill March! We decided on a mid point sleepover which equates to ten miles the following day, to get into the township of Monson.

Magic Red-Orange Mushrooms

The morning was a breeze, easy walking with nice and flat trail. We stopped at Bald Mountain Brook and had our Breakfast. Nothing like yesterdays pancakes, but cheese, beef sticks and crackers. This would give us what we needed to climb Bald Mountain, our only climb of the day. Now this is the part that I like about Maine. One mountain per day, one climb per day. That’s genius!

Bald Mountain is the peak of Moxie Bald Mountain (the proper name is Bald Mountain— Moxie refers to the pond to the west). The mostly bald peak was the result of a forest fire in the early 1900s, but is today enjoyed by hikers as one of the finest views in the region. As you climb, it’s your typical upward trajectory and then it gets exciting. There are huge boulders that are precariously balancing on one another. I wanted to get through quickly as if one came down, it’d squash me like an ant!

Trail Beneath this Slab of Granite

The Peak opens up to huge views in all directions. Blue was busy eating blueberries and I headed up to find a place to nap. Our tents were wet and so were our sleeping bags, so my first bit of business was drying my stuff. Following the rock cairns took me to a perfect place that gave us shelter from the wind, a couple of short pine trees to hang our tents and a perfect sleeping rock. Both Blue and I laid out all our assortment of wet gear and relaxed in the glorious sunshine. Yes, you read that correct. We’ve had sunshine for two days in a row. See, God does answer prayers quickly.

Blue and Our Yardsale

We stayed for an hour or maybe two. It was so nice to take in the beauty of this place. I feel we have rushed through so much due to weather constraints and time schedules, but today, it was nothing but rainbows and unicorns. All is good in my world! And Blue got her full of blueberries.

Blueberry Blue

But all things must come to an end. We packed up and headed down the mountain. I think it was one of the prettiest days we’ve had on trail in Maine. The views were tremendous and the trail was nice Granite Slabs lined with blueberry bushes. How much better does it get than that? Bald Mountain Pond was visible and what a huge body of water she is!

Overlook to Bald Mountain Pond

We arrived at Bald Mountain Stream, the outlet of Bald Mountain Pond. This is not a hop, skip and jump across rocks. Everything is submerged and hikers must ford the river. I took off my shoes and once again pulled out my Crocs. This time Blue took off her shoes and went barefoot. Her camp shoes are flip-flops and not ideal for river crossings. I went first, unbelted my backpack which confused Norman. Like, what if you fall? Are you just go to let me float down the river? He had a point so I didn’t fall and he stayed on my pack. Poor guy gets so worked up over these safety protocols. Blue followed me and we both made it to the shoreline, a little bit wetter than when we started.

Blue Fording Bald Mountain Pond

We redressed for the second time today and continued onward. The rest of the day was ho-hum after all we saw in the morning. There is what appears to be logging that isn’t completed. Trees have been cut and fallen, but left on the forest floor. It’s not very appealing to a hiker who has seen uncut forests for hundreds of miles. I’ve been told that lumbering is big business in Maine so I guess that should be expected.

Bald Mountain Pond

To my chagrin, our campsite is an old logging camp, just this side of a logging road. It’s a grassy field that has a fire ring and could comfortably fit 8-10 tents. Well this is home so I’ll enjoy it while I’m here. We arrived at camp early today. I was just fine with that. I had plenty of time to clean, nest and relax. As I was inspecting my toes, it appears that my right big toe nail is ready to release itself from its’ nail bed. Hmm, I guess that goes along with the hazards of the job. One toe nail isn’t bad. I met a gal named Nails on the PCT who lost all ten of her toe nails! Now that’s one tough cookie! One toe nail down and nine to go. No, no, no! One is enough!

Tenting at the Logging Camp

Day 81: August 5, 2023 Pierce Pond Lean-2 to Moxie Pond Ford Elevation+2770’/-3026’ 16.0 Miles/958.1/2059.0

Good morning sunshine. It did rain last night and my tent was soaking wet. The worst part was my sleeping bag was also wet. Not sure if that’s just from condensation or I had a small leak inside of my tent. Anyway you look at it, it wasn’t a good way to start the morning.

Pierce Pond

However, Tim, saved the day. He was ready for the hungry hikers with assorted berry pancakes, more like crapes, sausage, and eggs with orange juice. Me and blue shared the pancakes and we still couldn’t finish them. Each hiker had a stack of ten! After breakfast, we headed down the trail for the Kennebec River.

Tim and His Amazing Breakfast

The Kennebec River is the biggest river on the Appalachian Trail that must be forded. The only way to ford the river is by waiting for the water ferry that runs from 9 AM to 2 PM. Today was Justin’s first day taking hikers across the river. A disclaimer on FarOut app states: ATTENTION: Do not attempt to wade or swim across the Kennebec River. Dam releases upstream may cause sudden and rapid changes in water depth and current. Two hikers are known to have drowned and others have had near misses fording the river. As for the AT Purists: The official route of the A.T. across the Kennebec is the ferry service. So the Ferry is the only way.

Blue Up Front Looking at the River

Blue and I arrived and there were four hikers and a dog waiting. Being that only 1-2 hikers go across at a time, and there are southbound hikers waiting on the opposite side, this is a waiting game. By 10am, Blue and I were escorted across by Justin, who was quite competent. We did not even need to lift up an oar as he had the canoe pointed in the right direction. About 5-10 minutes later, we were on the other side. We grabbed our packs and off we went.

Justin Paddling Us Across the Kennebec

Within a few minutes, we ran into Slips and Snickers, doing Trail Magic. Slips had a bunch of fruit, including oranges, bananas, and watermelon. She also had cold drinks and vegetables with dip. She was a hiker herself back in 2022 and obviously knows what the hikers want. We loaded up on fruit and Blue started talking with Snickers.

Trail Angels Slips & Snickers

Ends up that Snickers husband is a Hiking the trail also and she is supporting him. Blue asked if there was a possibility. If we paid her, could she slack pack us? Snickers was more than happy and did not want our money. She would drive our backpacks to our ending location at Moxie Pond. She was a little nervous with dropping off the packs at the trailhead, but we convinced her that nobody wanted to carry our burdens. Just leave a note that these packs belong to Geisha and Blue, and Norman will guard them. And that’s exactly what she did.

The Kennebec River

The rest of the day was slackpacking. It was a darn good thing because I had no energy. We still had another 12 miles to go, and a very light daypack. You would think that the miles would come easy. especially after all these days that I’ve been on the trail. But I am just beat tired. We stopped to have lunch around 1pm and then continued on to a creek crossing where we could fill up on water. Blue filtered and so did I. We carried on for the rest of the afternoon.

Heading to Pleasant Peak

We had a easy climb up Pleasant Peak and that was our only ascent all day. In theory, I should’ve been flying down the mountain but instead I was slowly plotting down the dirty mess. There’s still so much mud and muck, that it really slows down our travel.

So Much Mud & Muck on Da Trail

When I left the creek shortly after Blue, I ran into 7 to 8 males who were carrying an ice chest to Pleasant Pond. They had flip-flops on and were sliding all over the mud and muck. They said that they do this all the time, but they’ve never seen conditions like this. Each one of them carried a large beach chair on their shoulders. They asked me what I was doing on the trail and I told them that I was hiking the Appalachian Trail. They were so impressed that they gave me a beer. I told them that I would love to take the beer but I would not drink it until I got to camp tonight at Moxie Pond. Great, they are going to Moxie Pond too. I never saw them again but I had my beer to share with Blue.

Pleasant Valley

When Blue and I got to the top of Pleasant Peak, Blue found a plethora of blueberries on top. She was picking and devouring so many that her tongue turned blue. It’s really hard to stop eating these delicious morsels and we really need the antioxidant’s out here. But reality is, we still had quite a few miles to go, so slowly but surely, we left the mountain and headed down to Moxie Pond.

Stop Pleasant Peak

I think I would rather have an ascent or climb at the end of the day rather than a downhill. My knees were talking to me, and they were not excited about this downhill slide to Moxie. It was a little over 5 miles, and it took me until close to 6 PM before I finally made it. Blue was waiting for me. There was a note attached to our bags from Snickers. Norman was taking care of our packs and made sure that no unsuspecting criminal would take them. I don’t think anybody wants to mess with my bag as it stinks to high heaven and there’s really nothing in there that is worthy of someone stealing. The funny is that when Snickers was placing our bags. Someone recognized Norman. He’s famous! I’ve seen him on Couch to Trails Vlog. Snickers had no idea that she was relocating the Movie Star of the Year. Seems like Norman is getting quite the reputation out here.

Norman Watching Over Our Packs

When I saw Blue, I told her that I was going to pop open the Light Blue Beer from Canada that I got from the boys. We sat down rock and shared our beverage. It hit the spot and gave me the energy to go to the next distance to our camp. On our way down a gravel road, we met a couple of guys that were fishing off the dock on Moxie Pond. They had Oreo cookies that they wanted to share with us and I was much obliged to take them take up their offer. They had just caught a bass and we’re working on getting more fish. We continued on the road and found a nice flat spot to pitch our tents. Just so happened that the sheriffs vehicle was parked right near where we camped. That makes me feel extra specially safe for the night.

Blue Light from Canada

What a day of gratefulness. From the sun shining in the early morning, to Tim cooking breakfast for us all, to Justin paddling Blue and I safely across the Kennebec River, Slips providing trail magic, Snickers delivering our packs ten miles up trail so we could slackpack, the Men who gave me Light Blue Beer and the fisherman who offered us Oreo’s. What a day indeed. God had this all planned out because He knew I would be exhausted from all the days prior. What a wonderful, magnificent and mighty Lord I serve!

Day 79: August 3, 2023 Route 4 – Rangeley to W Carrey Pond Lean-2 Elevation+3124’/-3005’ 3.5 Miles/932.1/2033.0

I love sleeping in a real bed, with lots of pillows, a comforter and no wake-up call. It is the best thing ever. Blue and I decided to take a Nero backwards. I remember Stealth and Sparks always did that. They would get into town and stay way past checkout time. Then meander back to the trail in the afternoon. I’m taking a page from their playbook! The Germans are all about rest, relaxation and summers off!

Rangeley Lake with Paddle Boats

Blue and I had to come to terms on our hiking plan. We both jumped the gun and bought airline tickets last month for August 21st. It seemed reasonable to believe we would be on top of Katadrin near my birthday. But in The Whites, we were having a hard time keeping up with our milage goals. These mountains kicked our butts! It seems that most of our hiking partners are in the same boat. We are all so tired, miles and the intense elevation are taking a toll on us. So Blue and I had to jump ahead, bypassing Sugarloaf, Crawfords and Bigelow Mountains. As Blue put it, I’m done with mountains for awhile. My plan is to come back and do this section with my husband George next year. It’s a beautiful area and he can support me by slackpacking or we can hike it together. New England is definitely a place I’d come back to in a heartbeat. This place is beautiful and I can only imagine what it would look like in the Fall.

Bigelow Mountains

Now that you are all caught up, Blue and I milled around Rangeley this morning. We had breakfast and dropped off our clothes to be laundered. That was a treat! And ran into Mary Poppins and Peace. Both were staying at a Hostel down the road that is off-grid meaning no power, no cellular and no wi-fi. Hence the reason they were in town. It’s always a surprise when you run into your hiking friends off-trail. Mary Poppins plans to take a Zero and slowdown her miles. She also is pretty darn tired from all our climbing this past month. I’m not sure if or when we’ll see her again, but we will definitely stay in touch. And I’ll make sure everyone knows when she reaches Katadrin.

Blue, Me & Mary Poppins in Rangeley

I found a ride to the trail with TrailerPark. He hiked the AT in 2021 and is now giving back by offering rides to and from the trail. He’s 32 years old and lived in Lake Tahoe for 8 years. He plans to hike the PCT next year but for now, he’s living outside Rangeley and fell in love with this area when he was thru-hiking. So much to do for anyone who thrives in the great outdoors.

West Carrey Pond- Where the Moose Bugle All Night Long

We have few miles to do today. Our plan is to get to camp before the rain hits, set-up our tents and rest this afternoon. The trail was fairly flat with lots of muck to get around. We went through a treed area for most of the day and ended up at West Carrey Pond. It’s lovely here but the rain has been teasing us all afternoon. We pulled out our umbrellas, but it only drizzled. By the time we setup camp, it started raining only to stop again. The weather guessers said we would get torrential downpours tonight. So far, they are wrong. A few drizzles and all is well. I’ll let you know when or if it comes. For now, I’m gonna hideout in my cozy little tent and eat some yummy dehydrated Chicken and Dumplings with Vegetables. That’s what I call comfort food! And my hot tea with an assortment of chocolates. No wonder my pack weighs so much!

West Carrey Pond Lull Before the Storm

Day 80: August 4, 2023 W Carrey Pond Lean-2 to Pierce Pond Lean-2 Elevation+854’/-1224’ 10.0 Miles/942.1/2043.0

Well the weather guessers were somewhat right. It rained all night long, and off and on today. No torrential downpour but just enough to make everything wet including my shoes, socks, gaiters, and rain jacket. so pretty much everything. I am really thinking, I am a California Girl because at this point, all I can think about is glorious sunshine and butterflies. None of that happening here.

West Carrey Pond

I smashed my wet tent into its stuff sack and headed out. Blue was right behind me. And I mean right behind me. If I stop, she runs into me! With her umbrella up, it’s hard to see what’s happening up ahead, especially when all you look at is where are you putting your next foot. In a mud hole, in a bog, on a slippery rock or root? It’s nothing but pure joy out here. I think I’m starting to get a bit tired of this trail. It’s been really hard and even with the lack of elevation, it’s constantly making me feel like I am going to slip and fall at any moment. I did twice today. Nothing major, just my typical foot in mud and can’t move forward. This muck holds you in place like cement! It’s a real momentum stopper.

Interesting History of Col. Benedict Arnold and 1,000 Men Army

My other big issue is, I’m dealing with a sore left calf muscle, and it’s not happy. I’m good when I stop or sit or lay down, which doesn’t happen a lot. But when I’m moving and trying to make miles, it pulls or strains or who knows what? It’s just not wanting to deliver the miles I need right now. I’ve tried rolling it out, using Icy-Hot, taping it with KT Tape, Vitamin-I, aka Ibuprofen, but nothing seems to work. Well, stopping works, but that ain’t happening. So I plod along and do what I can do.

Snack Break with Umbrella & Rain Jacket Deployed

Poor Blue is pulling her hair out because she’s ready to be on top of that mountain. I think she’s at the end of her rope. The weather has been a huge determinant to fun. It’s somewhat depressing and wears you down. I totally agree with her. Sorry this isn’t the uplifting rainbows and unicorns kind of blog today. It’s just been a bit tough out here. Even Whistles was getting depressed today.

East Carrey Pond & Beach

We all met up at Harrison’s Pierce Pond Camp. Tim, the owner, has been there for 38 years helping hikers and anglers. He has a cabin that everyone is welcome to. And the best part is he provides a breakfast of Pancakes with Berries, Sausage and Eggs, Coffee & Tea, and Juice. All you need to do is walk the extra bonus .3 miles there and back to make your reservations. Blue, Whistles and I all headed over and placed our orders for the following morning. Tim offered us Lemonade and a place to sit out of the weather.

Tim’s Cabin in the Woods

Whistles is also a flip-flopper like me. He started at Harpers Ferry around the same time I did and here we are, 160 miles away from Katahdin, which for most hikers, is the end. He keeps hearing all the excitement in most the hikers, anticipation of the end, when he still has another 1,000 miles to go. Me, on the other hand has only 300 miles to go, and connect the dots in completing my hike. Well not completely accurate because I still need to come back and finish the mountains between Rangeley and Long Falls Dam Road. Whistles’ Dad is meeting him at Abol Bridge and plans to hike Mt. Katadrin with him. That’s a big boost for his morale. When I was hiking with Couch and Braveheart, we spent many days hiking with Whistles. He’s a young kid and very intellectual. I always enjoy talking with him.

Couch, Whistles, Braveheart & Me

Our hike today was fine with little elevation, lots of trees and many Ponds, which I call Lakes due to their size. There were some beautiful sandy beaches, which on a sunny day would be great for swimming. The Ponds have rocky bottoms with gravel-like areas that would make an excellent choice to sit. There was much plank walking today over bogs and near the shorelines of the ponds. Maine is extremely rugged and remote, and has a different type of beauty than any other of the states I passed through. Most hikers love this state. It truly is out of the normal for it to rain like this, especially day after day after day.

Planks over East Carrey Pond

I remember talking with The Ravens who I met on the PCT. They have hiked all three long distant hikes, making them Triple-Crowners, and shared their spreadsheet with me. Everyday that it rained, and they said only if it rained most of the day, they placed an R next to that date. During their time on the AT, it rained something like 44%. I thought that was unheard of, but I betcha I am right up there with rain days, if not more. But there is a reason why everyone comments on the pictures that I post. They always remark about how green it is. I rarely enhance my photos and what you see is what it is out here. It’s as close to a rainforest as the Olympia National Park. Well maybe not that rainy, but darn close!

Wild Blueberries on the Trail

So here I am laying in my tent thinking about the next couple of weeks. Blue and I are planning our strategy on what is the best way to finish this trail on a positive note. Honestly, when we get to Abol Bridge and we look at that mountain, I’m sure that there will be tears of joy and tears of sadness. So for now, we are just going to have the best time together and pray for good health, healing of my calf and a bit of California sunshine. That’s all things that my Lord can do. And I have absolute faith that He is moving mountains right now! Thank you sweet Jesus.

Sitting on the Dock of the Bay Praying the Clouds Will Drift Away

Day 78: August 2, 2023 MA Route 17 to MA Route 4 – Rangeley Elevation+3124’/-3005’ 13.1 Miles/928.8/1977.8

What a glorious sunrise. Sleeping on a roadside has never been so good. There was a full moon and at first I thought it was another camper with a very bright headlamp. Then I imagined a car parking near my tent which didn’t make much sense. And finally I realized it was the moon shining down on me! It was brighter than anything I have ever seen.

Morning Fog over Mooselookmeguntic Lake

The fog and low lying clouds encompassed the lake below. It was magical. I packed up and just took in the morning. Blue was slow to rise which worked out fine. More time to be in awe. Nails packed up and we never saw him again. But on this trail, we will eventually meet again.

Go Take a Hike Sticker & Many More

Blue and I finally got moving around 7am. It was fine. We had a pretty easy day with little ups and downs. Our first little jaunt was Sabbath Pond Lean-2. There were so many lakes along the way, Moxie Pond and Long Pond. The morning was cool with a breeze and I had my long pants and long sleeve shirt on. So did Blue. Maine has a bit of a Northeastern Breeze that cools the temperature down quite a bit. I love it!

Moxie Pond

We made it to Sabbath Day Pond and found a wooden platform with some trees to hang our gear. Tents were wet from condensation and so was my sleeping bag. Everything was strung out warming in the sun. Then the bugle started sounding! It was a moose calling for his herd. Such an incredible sound of nature, at its best. If you ever heard an elk bugling then imagine the same sound, just a bit lower octane. It was magnificent to listen to. When it stopped, I made my imitation of a bugling moose, and he started up again. So cool!

Sabbath Day Pond

We packed up and headed down the trail. We ran into Peace and a few Sobo’s, but no Nobo’s. The terrain was manageable with little elevation change. I thought we might be on the wrong trail but evidently we were right where we were suppose to be.

Large Mushroom Growing on Tree

Blue and I passed many lakes and finally made it to Little Swift River Pond. We sat and had lunch. Hiking burns up 5-6000 calories a day easily, if not more. All I can think of is when the next food stop will be. I have no idea how much weight I’ve lost, but with the town food and beer, maybe not as much.

Eating Lunch with Blue & Norman

We found a gal Nikki to pick us up and take us to the town of Rangeley. Blue has somehow misplaced her camp shoes. She called The Cabin where she had them last and no one could find them. This is a very important piece of gear as once you’ve been walking all day in your mucky wet shoes, the last thing you want to do is put them back on to pee at night. Or when you get to town, which we do ever so frequently, you need a pair of town shoes. So here again, a piece of equipment in your backpack must have two or more purposes. Nikki said she could meet us at the trailhead at 4:30pm. Perfect. We headed down the final five miles and made it just in time. The Outfitter closes at 5pm. We jumped into her car and off to Rangeley we went.

Conservation Corp Hard at Work on Trails – Moving Boulders in Muck

Rangeley, Maine is a town of 1,222 people per the 2020 Census. For outdoor enthusiasts, this is the place to be. They have more lakes than land, endless hiking trails and summits to climb, amazing fishing with record size Brook Trouts, kayaking and canoeing, motorcycles and off-roading, and every type of winter sport you can imagine. In its rating of outstanding destinations, Rand McNally described the Rangeley Lakes Region as “one of America’s few remaining vacation spots where one can truly escape most of the disadvantages of civilization.” Who’s to argue with such a respected source? It’s quite a happening place and Blue got her replacement shoes at the Outfitters.

Rangeley, Maine on Rangeley Lake

Since we were here, we stayed the night at the Rangely Historic Inn. It’s was built in the early 1900’s and has been remodeled, but still has all its old charm. It sits on Rangeley Lake and offers free kayaks and canoes to its guests. We are not the typical guests at this Hotel, but they took our money and we had the most luxurious sleep on the trail to date. I’m sure the thread count is 1,000 with Egyptian Cotton Sheets, and a white comforter that I was afraid to sit upon. But after taking a shower and putting on cleanish clothes, I did. Norman jumped onto the bed and had no concerns. He didn’t walk through muck today and was relatively clean, for a monkey!

The Historic Rangeley Inn

Life is good on the trail. I have to say my feet are a bit tired, and my knees get sore at the end of the day. The mosquitoes keep biting me and the muck about ate my shoe todayj, but in the end, I wouldn’t trade it for anything else! It’s not for everyone, hence the reason people are getting fewer and fewer on the trail. With the weather this year, and the trail closures, there’s only a handful of us left on the Appalachian. Yet, Blue and I are making the best of it, obviously, and we are moving northbound. All in all, it’s been a remarkable experience and journey that will live in the cobwebs of my mind for years to come. And God-willing, He will continue to push me and refine me as I make my way to Mt. Katahdin.

Blue at Her Blue Hotel – So Fitting