My tent site selection was lacking last night but God was not. I so needed some rest to get ready for today’s events, and our sweet Jesus calmed me down. What a blessing, more down than up today! That hasn’t happened in a long long time. The morning was stunning. We have been traveling on a ridge line for a wee bit now, so if you don’t like the views to the west, check out the east side! Honestly, it’s hard to choose which side is more glorious?
We had a wonderful sunrise, then crested over Engineer Pass and dropped into this meadow. If I was a dog, this would be the best Dog Park ever! There were all sorts of critters to chase and things to smell! Triple-Z brought out her mountain finder app and we located Cross Mountain. It looks as though it has a steeple on top. So appropriate for this paradise that we are traversing.
The morning was simply easy walking. The trail was manicured, no crazy roots to grab hold of your shoe laces, no menacing boulders or rocks, just absolute perfection. I would love to meet the volunteers who work year after year clearing, maintaining and caring for these trails. They are the true hero’s out here!
We are leaving the San Juan’s and entering more forested territory. There are still huge majestic mountains but they are different. As we were walking just below the ridge line, I kept looking to my left and about tripped again. This is a regular occurrence of my flawed hiking step. I finally stopped and went up the ridge line to see this red rock beauty! It’s so interesting because you’ll be walking on grey ashen soil and all of a sudden, it turns to red clay. I can’t get over the diversity of this place!
We are getting down to the wire. We hit mile marker 445 so only 40 miles to go. We have a twenty mile water carry as a gentle reminder that water is so precious, even here! We filled up three plus liters and climbed our last hill for the day. I was in charge of picking a site and boy oh boy, it is as flat as a pancake, and has a super nice view. Glorious God! Life is good. 
And I will be to her a wall of fire all around declares the Lord, and I will be the glory in her midst.
Zechariah 2:5
It is much different on the south end of the San Juan’s. The mountains are red with clay trails and corn flowers growing like weeds. I never get tired of the scenery, I just get tired. I’ve been having a hard time eating so I’m not getting the fuel I need to get me up the trail. Usually it’s the complete opposite and you have hiker hunger. All you want to do is eat, eat, eat but for some reason my belly is not happy and I can barely get food down. That’s a problem!
We are back in the trees again with lush green landscape, deers grazing and squirrels squeaking! Triple-Z has finally zoned in on what the chirping sound that we constantly hear from pikas and marmots. It sounds just like the alarm in your smoke detector when you need to change the batteries. Sometimes it’s really loud while others are just a gentle chirp. We are still holding out on finding the rare white weasel but haven’t seen one yet.
We climbed up a pass and found a perfect red rock to sit upon. I pulled out my yellow closed-cell foam insulated pad and relaxed. During our lunch we watched a very accomplished mountain biker come up the trail and negotiate the tightest turn around a rock like it was nothing at all. Darn mountain bikers are so much faster than us!
After lunch we finished the climb and headed down into a valley that looked like Zion National Park. Okay, I’ve never been there before but I’ve seen pictures and it has all the similarities. Red rock formations, red mountains and red clay trails. I came around a bend and this deer was standing just off the trail. She looked right at me and had no care that I was there. Sometimes they’re so skid dish while others just hangout. We filled up with water at Cascade Creek and yep, hiked up another 1000′ to our not-so-flat piece of earth. We are up on a ridge line and sometimes you get graced with a flat piece of real estate, but not tonight. I’m doing my best to barricade myself from sliding sideways and downhill but it’s a poor attempt. The consolation prize, I’m so tired that it probably won’t matter. Looking at our guidebook, tomorrow will be more downhill than uphill. Hallelujah!
God has more in store for you than you can even imagine. 
Once I was through the first maze, I started to get the hang of it, but seriously in California they’d close the trail down. Here in a Colorado, they put up colored tape marking where the trail should be and cut you loose. The rumor is they might clear it out next year! People in Colorado are just made differently.
Once we finished our gym workout, we came around the corner and there was a flat campsite with sticks laying all over it. Triple-Z said it was a staging area for beavers. Hmm, I just thought they didn’t want anyone camping there but sure enough, three small beavers came running down the trail directly towards us! It was the funniest thing I’d ever seen. And adorable, of my gosh! Once they saw us, they headed back towards the water and off they went.
We made it down to the railroad tracks today. A couple of years ago, Bear Bait and I rode the very train that travels these tracks. The route is from Durango to Silverton on an old steam engine-coal driven working train. I remember the train conductor mentioned picking up hikers on the CT. There was a quasi train stop for hikers as we walked down the tracks. I was tempted to wait for that train but we had a good box to pick up in Molas so up the mountain we went. 
Once at Molas Lake, we picked up our last resupply box filled with food to get us to Durango. With COVID and all, the store doesn’t allow anyone in but they staple their food and snacks on a wall and you can chose what you’d like. Triple-Z bought a huge burrito and I bought an ice cream. It was the best drumstick I’ve ever tasted! We both took showers, and washed our clothes in the shower with us. Not the most hygienic but desperate times call for desperate measures. We wore our tank tops till our shirts dried up and off we went, relatively clean for hiker trash.
We had a few more miles to go and made our way out of the campground and back on the trail. We climbed again, of course, and made our way to our predetermined water source. After climbing up the rock, our water source was leftover pools of standing water. We scooped the best we could and found a luscious plateau that overlooks our accomplishments for the day. There is a satisfaction when you realize where you came from just this morning.
Today was a day of God’s protection. Anyway you slice it, it could’ve been disastrous. A slip on a log, a twisted this or that. One thing is for certain, there was a lot of prayer going on. I truly know that our Lord has guided my every step. I am far from Wonder Woman or for that matter, some elite athlete. So in my mind, I truly believe that God is my master planner, that I love Him immensely and he has many angels working overtime on my behalf! It is God’s graces that allow both Triple-Z and I to cover the miles we do and stay relatively unharmed. I may have a few bumps and bruises but if I was to be honest, I usually always do. God is the one who is in-charge of my life and my path, and I am so grateful for that!
We know that all things work together for good for those who love God, for those who are called accordingly to his purpose.
The most unique part of hiking here is the fact you are constantly above tree line. Fortunately the weather looks ominous from the clouds but the only true factor we have dealt with is wind. At times it feels like the jet stream has dropped down to 12,000′.
The rock cairns are getting more and more elaborate. Honestly they are nice to see as you are approaching a summit, but rarely to the designate the top. In fact I think they are intended for winter travel when the trail is covered in snow. That to me sounds like way too much work!
After lunch we came over another rise and all I could think was Patagonia! These twin peaks dominated the landscape. The only thing that was missing is the glacier below them.
As we descended the mountain in the afternoon, we had already seen two huge flocks of sheep, a random saddled horse tied to a lead without a cowboy anywhere, and motorized vehicles over Stoney Pass. The climb down was much like Mt Whitney where there are countless switchbacks. I was truly grateful that I wasn’t climbing up! The trail was narrow and went through some old mining areas with rock quarry’s.
Just for some added fun after hiking 15 miles, we had to negotiate a blow down of spruce trees that extended 100 meters, about the size of a football field. That’s where the blood came in. There’s no way to climb over fallen trees wearing a skirt, without getting gouged. The sweat was earned from all the climbs we had today while the tears were “tears of joy”. 400 miles hiked to this point! We did one extra mile to camp being the original site we intended using is home of a very aggressive porcupine! He’s been known to eat random gear and steal stuff. For over three years, he’s been menacing hikers and campers alike. Who would’ve thought you’d be run out by a porky critter. Only 84 to go and we will be in Durango! 

The Lord will guide you always; he will satisfy your needs in a sun-scorched land and will strengthen your frame. You will be a well-watered garden like a spring whose waters never fail. 
It was another morning that was difficult to leave the confines of my warm goose-down quilt but once I was moving, the morning couldn’t have been better! There was a lot of chirping going on and I finally narrowed it down to a family of grouse. Mamma was warning the babies that the giants with packs were coming and everyone went different directions. They were fairly young as their feathers reminded me of what I have stuffed in my puffy jacket. Sorry grouse! The problem with grouse is even when you take a photo of them, they blend into the scenery. I’m sure that’s the way God designed them.
But this amazing weasel put on quite a show for us. First of all, the fact that this is the second weasel we’ve seen is quite incredible! He popped his head out of the pile of rocks and then moved over and sunned himself. He must’ve never seen upright turtles before and had no care that both Triple-Z and I were watching his every movement. After a bit of time, he ran off and we both looked at each other in astonishment!
Today was a climbing day. We had four passes to climb over and a ridiculous descent! But the caveat was that every turn we took, there was magic. The beavers were at it again building a three-tier pond with waterfalls providing a haven for birds, deers and whatever else could use this body of water. We sat watching a deer come down to drink while birds playing along the banks searching for worms. We could’ve stayed all day waiting for the elusive moose but we needed to get a move on.
We made it up and over our fourth pass and reached the summit which was 12800′. As I looked around, it was something like the Grand Canyon with these beautiful mesa’s overlooking this glaciated carved canyon. The thing I find so interesting in Colorado is all the colors of rocks and minerals. I’m not sure what the chalky white is but it could be sulfur, ash or as one of the locals mentioned, arsenic. I’m definitely not a geologist but all I can say is WOW! It just keeps getting more stunning daily.
Once we crested the summit, we had shale fields to navigate through. Even amongst the rock, there is life sprouting. This is some kind of thistle of sorts with very thorny leaves and lavender flowers. It’s about the only thing that I could find that was thriving besides the Pikas (overgrown hamsters) and tons of marmots! We hurried off and made our way to the tundra like plateau. We could see a bank of clouds headed our way and were hoping to escape the certain wrath of rain and hail.
We walked three to four miles on this plateau that kept going and going… and going! And the rain was inescapable. The best part was that we had already scored a ride and all we needed to do was get off this mountain top. Triple-Z was in the race of her life not wanting to miss our ride to Lake City. I hung back with “No Beta” aka Will, who was the one getting the ride and figured they wouldn’t leave till he showed up. And so Will and I made our way down in the rain and arrived a few minutes after my hiking partner. Lucky for me, Will’s ride was still waiting. The five of us, the driver, Will and his girlfriend Sage, Triple-Z and I crammed into a Subaru with all our wet packs and drove ever so slowly to Lake City. It was a stinky car but a free ride! The Silver Spur Hotel is our home off the trail for two days. Oh glorious running water, flush toilets, clean linens and darn good food! Fried Catfish and Hush Puppies are the goings on around these parts. I’m in! 
This morning was a bit brighter than usual as we had a full moon to light up the path. The most amazing clouds that covered the moon from time to time, but still quite beautiful as we started our early morning walk. The sun came up, as it usually does, and illuminated the mountains with an aspen glow. We were blessed with all sorts of beauty!
The last few days we have been immersed in cow country but that is going to be well behind us. We stopped at the pit toilets just because you have too when they present themselves. There were four deer grazing across the path and seemed to have no care that we were there. I think they knew what was in store for us and were laughing in their syndical deer way, your climb begins.
Triple-Z led the way and within a few hours we were at our first pass. It was slow and steady and fortunately, I think, because we get up so darn early, it was cool and we managed to get to the saddle before noon. The climb was pretty gradual as the climbs typically around these parts, are butt busting.
Once at the first pass we met another thru-hiker who was hiking to his high school reunion. That’s just plain crazy in my book, but he thought this would be a great way to get into shape and show up a bit leaner. I’d say so! He’ll be the talk of the reunion and he’s 60! He continued north and a Triple-Z and I headed south, over San Luis Peak Saddle 12588′.
It was a challenging day but we still managed to get in the miles and both Triple-Z and I are feeling really strong! We both commented on the fact that the next week or so will be our biggest climbs yet. The profile map of this trail is a bit intimidating but once you start, one step at a time, your mind and body tend to follow.
We are truly getting into the most beautiful sections of this trail. The San Juan Mountains are the masterpiece of Colorado and they are right around the corner!
By this everyone will know that you are my disciples, if you love one another.
Today was another day of road walking which was through prairies, plains and cow fields. It was actually very pretty and reminded me of Wyoming or Montana with the wide open spaces where you can see forever.
The weather has been spectacular, not too hot and not too cold. The clouds have moved in to make for beautiful skies with little sprinkles here and there, just enough to cool us off! Thank you all for praying for the change of weather. Our good Lord is hearing your prayers and blessing us with brilliant days on the trail.
Gathering water has been a topic of conversation between Triple-Z and I. With my last bout of Guardia two years ago, we have decided to double attack our purification in cow country. We have been using Aqua Mira which is basically bleach and kills 99.9 % of all water borne creepy crud. After we use that which typically takes 20 minutes, yet we decided to up it to a 35 minute process. The more time to kill stuff, the better! Then we use Triple-Z’s Sawyer Squeeze, which we believe, gets out the other .01% that the Aqua Mira doesn’t kill. So far, so good. No belly aches and all of our food is digesting properly.
As we were getting in our last few miles of the day, we were experiencing huge gusts of winds. Typically we’ve had crosswinds or worse yet headwinds, but God was pushing us to camp with this incredible tailwind. When you are on that last climb and suddenly you have someone pushing you up the final leg, that is God! I was at the end of my trail legs for the day and was praying for a little extra strength. Then lo and behold, this tailwind shows up! It was from heaven above. I mentioned before I feel like I am transported from one place to another, that’s what I’m talking about. God loves us so much that when we think we are done, when we have nothing left in our tank, He picks us up and finishes it off for us. That’s our amazing, incredible, magnificent God that we serve!
But those who hope in the Lord will renew their strength. They will soar on wings like eagles; they will run and not grow weary, they will walk and not be faint.
This morning was ideal lick. After admiring Gods perfect wake up, we headed down to Razor Creek which is loaded with birds, chipmunks and squirrels. Then Triple-Z stops suddenly which always means that something is up ahead and we see two bucks with huge racks on their heads! My husband, the hunter, always says that I see more wildlife than he does. I think he’s right. Colorado is loaded with wildlife and big game.
Today was another milestone for us as we passed the 300 mile marker. We have been averaging 100 miles a week which isn’t record breaking but it gets the job done, and we are enjoying every minute of it. Well maybe not every moment but pretty close to it. Today the miles were fairly easy, with only a few slight climbs and a lot of downhill. That sounds all fine and dandy but I’m sure we will be making up the elevation that we lost today.
Trash day, hmm what’s that all about? Well I’ve found the silver lining to walking the roads. Today we walked close to six or seven miles on hard packed dirt roads. Being it’s Sunday, there were people leaving to go back home. I saw this big toy hauler coming down the road and wondered, this could be my lucky day! Triple-Z and I have been hauling our trash since Mt Princeton with nowhere to dispose of it properly. So I flagged down the nice couple who were very happy to off-load our trash in the bed of their truck. Yeah, we just each lost one pound of trash. So road walking has its perks, and that ended our most perfect day. 